Pork in the Road

I first learned about the Kumano Kodo many, many years ago, when I was reading about Mt Koya

or Koyasan, the sacred mountain of Shingon Buddhism.

The article mentioned the mountain was connected to an important Shinto pilgrimage -- the

Kumano Kodo.

One of the pilgrimage's five routes that junreisha or pilgrims walked over 1,000 years ago started from Koyasan and ended in the Kii Peninsula where pilgrims visited the three Kumano Shinto shrines.

I did get to visit Koyasan a few years after I had read about it and found it to be every bit as unique and special an experience as I had expected it to be.

The interest in the Kumano Kodo lay dormant in my mind, temporarily set aside by the busy-ness of business. When I retired two years ago, it pushed itself forward, nudging me and whispering in my ear.

I have not yet learned to ignore these voices speaking to me.

So I continued my research in earnest and discovered that the Nakahechi, Kumano Kodo's most popular pilgrimage route was also a UNESCO World Heritage route, just one of two -- the other being the French Way of the Camino de Santiago.

An amazing coincidence ... in 2015, Jay and I had the privilege of walking the last 134 kilometres of the French Way of the Camino, certainly a life enhancing experience (I also wrote about it on this blog).

As I continued to read about the Nakahechi route, my enthusiasm grew -- the way takes pilgrims off the beaten track, into the small towns and villages of Wakayama Prefecture, winding up and down forests and mountain trails.

It would lead me inside a Japan that few foreigners saw and that perhaps not even too many Japanese venture into.

If I had known that the Kumano Kodo would also take me through steep, uneven and possibly risky trails (at least for on and off hikers like me) -- would I have decided to do the trek?

A most resounding yes. Or hai, so desu! as the Japanese would say.

So gentle reader -- let me tell you in the next posts about my singular experience of trekking through some of the ancient paths of the Kumano Kodo.

It took me nearly a year to really plan out how to do the Kumano Kodo and still there were a few things I missed along the way. If I can get you interested in walking this venerable, time honoured pilgrimage then let me give you a few tips on how to get yourself there.
In planning this trip, I used a local tour operator which simplified everything particularly since most of the reservations had to be made in Japanese.
There are various tour companies specialising in the Kumano Kodo and other hikes in Japan but I chose a community based organisation based in Tanabe City.
I also worked with Mi-Kumano, a local group of english speaking guides who can likewise help with accommodations, luggage transfers and tours.

The Kumano Kodo is in the Kii Peninsula in Wakayama Prefecture -- just a couple of hours away from Kansai International Airport but seemingly worlds and years away. Landing at KIX is a most convenient way to reach the area.

We chose to walk the UNESCO World Heritage cited Nakahechi Route which starts at Takijiri.
There are no trains going to this outpost, only buses emanating from Tanabe City -- so that was our first destination.

The lady at the JR Ticket Counter in KIX was very helpful -- she got us on the Rapid Express headed for Osaka with instructions to get off at Hineno Station, just two stops away.

Hineno station is one of the few stops of the Limited Express Kuroshio, headed for Tanabe City and beyond. We barely had time for a photo before our ride pulled into the station. All aboard!

The Kuroshio Limited Express is a JR train that links Kyoto and Osaka with the towns and cities in Wakayama Prefecture. We had reserved seats but after Wakayama station where most of the passengers got off, we had the car to ourselves.

The scenery outside my train window alternated between views of mountains, small villages and the waters of the Pacific Ocean. I wish I had taken views of the coastline as we sped through.

Less than two hours later, we arrived at Kii Tanabe station. There were a few taxis waiting for passengers but our hotel was just a few blocks walk away.
I thought the station had a quaint slightly European air -- particularly with the cut outs and designs of witches, pigs, farmers and little children. Had we stumbled into the world of the Brothers Grimm?

Here are the Amigos -- we call ourselves this since most of us had walked the Camino de Santiago together in 2015.

Tanabe City is a long long way from Santiago de Compostela but here we were again -- ready for another hike, another adventure.

Hotel Hanaya, our lodgings for the one night we were in Tanabe City was small but clean and personally run by the hard working owners.
As we checked out the next day, I was surprised to see them cleaning the rooms and taking out the laundry. It was certainly an efficient "mom and pop"operation.

Hotel Hanaya does not serve dinner -- only breakfast. Surprisingly, Tanabe City has a lively food scene. Across the station is an area called Akikoji where there are bars, izakayas, restaurants and cafes. I didn't know it but we were probably in the Food Capital of Wakayama Prefecture!

Our innkeeper recommended a place called Ichiyoshi -- a gastro-pub of sorts with an english menu.

Ichiyoshi's food was ichiban oishii! I had a set dinner of beef and prawns donburi which came with a tasty little pasta salad -- all for just 800 yen!

The next morning, Day 1 of our walk, Jay and I went to the Tourist Center right beside the train station.

It offers a wealth of information on places to see and things to do in Wakayama Prefecture.

And since Tanabe City is the starting point for those setting out on the Nakahechi Route, the centre has reams and reams of maps, bus and train timetables, brochures and everything you would need to know to help you along the way.

Right in front of the Center is the bus stop where everyone takes the bus to Takijiri, the gateway to the Kumano Kodo.

The Tourist Centre is staffed by very helpful, English speaking ladies who are only too happy to answer all questions and offer assistance for any last minute pilgrim's needs. They can also connect you to the network of tourist facilities all throughout the Kii Peninsula - truly an invaluable resource.

At the Tourist Centre there is a scale model of the various Kumano Kodo routes. Encircled in red is the first leg of our walk, from Takajiri to Takahara Village. It looks deceptively short but I always say that looks can be deceiving.

For the Nakahechi Route, Takijiri is also called the "Gateway into the Sacred Mountains" and the official start of the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage. The only way to get there is by local bus and this being rural Japan, buses are few and keep to strict timetables.

Make sure that you do not miss your bus!

Lesson Learned - Tanabe City has a number of places of interest. Aside from the vibrant food street Akikoji, there is a temple, a shrine and a beach, all within walking distance from the station.

It's also the birthplace of Aikido. If you are interested in any of these, it might be good to spend an extra day exploring Tanabe's charms.

The first day of our Kumano Kodo hike started well after lunch. Perhaps because the route from Takijiri to Takahara would cover a scant distance of 3.7 kilometres and we were expected to finish the walk in good time. Still, it took me four hours to cover that distance.
You'll have to read on to find out why ....

To get to Takijiri we took a local bus from Tanabe City. The bus stop is right in front of the Tanabe Tourist Center where we also met up with our Mi-Kumano guides who would be walking with us for the next four days of our five day hike.

Kumano Travel, the community based travel bureau who handled our reservations also made arrangements for our luggage transfers. As in the Camino, we would not need to walk with everything in our backpacks as our suitcases would be ferried daily to our lodgings.
We would only need to carry what we needed for the day's walk.

When we got off the bus at Takijiri, Yama Shuttle Luggage Service was waiting by the stop.
This sweet little lady -- definitely smaller and lighter than me -- took my big suitcase and hefted it into her van ... without even batting an eyelash. I was really impressed!

The Kumano Kodo Kan Pilgrimage Center is located right at the entrance of Takijiri. Before we started the walk, our guides brought us in for a quick briefing.

Inside, the Center is made up of gleaming cedar floors and walls. There are tourism posters, brochures, maps and even videos about the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage.

There's also a store with hiking gear, for those who need some last minute purchases. I'm happy to see that the products are by my favourite, Mont-bell -- Japan's premier hiking and mountaineering brand.

Meet the Mi-Kumano guides who would prove to be invaluable during our hike. From left to right, they are Wada san, Jennifer san and Chika san.

Jennifer is an Ilongga married to a Japanese and who has lived in the area for over 20 years.

We were all pleasantly surprised to hear someone welcoming us in Tagalog!

After the briefing and the trips to the toilet (last one before we got to Takahara) we were finally
ready to head off.
Across the road from the Pilgrim Center is the Nakahechi route's official "gateway" to the sacred mountains of the Kumano Kodo. It is marked by a small but significant shrine, the Takijiri-Oji.
Oji are"children of the deities" and all throughout the various routes, there are shrines dedicated to them where ancient pilgrims stopped to pray and rest.
Most of the very old shrines have been reduced to a mere pile of rocks or stones but are still marked with signs so you can read about their history and significance.

Like the mogotes along the Camino de Santiago, you will find these wooden posts along the
Nakahechi and other Kumano Kodo routes. These markers are set every 500 meters so hikers
have an idea of the distance they've travelled.
Phone numbers for the police and fire stations are on every marker -- a good reminder that
while these routes have been walked on by pilgrims through a thousand years, today's hikers should still be careful along the trails. A false sense of security can lead to accidents on the rough and oftentimes uneven terrain.

Wada san and our guides lead us through the torii into the shrine where we pay homage to the

Oji and ask for a safe and accident free hike.

One last thing to do before we enter the mountain trails -- get our little booklet stamped at the shrine. We had all been given these stamp booklets at the Tourist centre in Tanabe and instructed to collect stamps along the way.

After we completed a certain number of stamps, we would need to show this to the Pilgrim Center at Hongu Taisha where we would be given a certificate for completing the Kumano Kodo.

This is reminiscent of the sellos that pilgrims along the Camino de Santiago need to collect along the way so they can earn their compostela.

Right at the vey start of the path, a tree has grown over this massive boulder, its huge roots

hugging the moss covered rock. Looking back on this, it was a sign of what was to come --

we would see more ki-no ne or tree roots covering the forest trails.

The initial way up is steep and through stone steps. It would get progressively harder and steeper as we continued to climb.

Some minutes later, we came upon these gigantic rocks that formed a narrow opening.

This was a test for those brave and yes, slim enough to try and pass through.

Our guides told us that to be able to clamber out on the other side of this stone "womb" meant

that you had been "reborn". Some of the Amigos successfully experienced this "rebirth" but I

decided that I enjoyed this life too much to want to be "reborn" into another.

The trail is full of large and interesting rock formations, some of them with very interesting back stories.

Our charming guide Chika san told us the legend about this rock that hides a small cave.

It is said that a baby was born to a powerful lord and his wife while they were on the Kumano pilgrimage. They left the baby near this rock and continued on to the shrine.

When they came back, they found the baby well and healthy -- nursed by the wolves in the forest.

The rock is now called Chichi-iwa which translates to "Milk Rock".

We continued the unrelenting steep ascent towards Takahara. Sometimes, we walked on uneven stone steps -- I huffed and I puffed but those stones just kept climbing up and up and up.

More difficult than the stone steps were the ki-no ne or tree roots that were even trickier, at least that's how I felt. I had to look for secure footholds in between the roots. One false step could mean a twisted ankle -- certainly the end of the hike for me.

The entire mountain is covered with these Japanese conifers. They grow by the ridge along the narrow trails -- if you slip, you'll roll straight down the slope. I made a mental note to try and grab a tree trunk if that ever happened to me.

Normal seasoned hikers (these include the elderly Japanese who were trotting along and passing us on the trail) usually take the 3.7 km hike in 2 to 3 hours. Navigating the twisting, snake like ki-no ne further slowed down my usual slug like pace.

Thankfully at some points, we'd reach level ground -- where the roots were not as "invasive".

Time for a water break and a smile for the camera.

Halfway through the hike, the trails got a bit wider but were now covered in dried leaves making the path quite slippery.

Dirt covered paths amidst lush greenery reminded me of the Camino trails in the Galician mountains. Instead of the smell of eucalyptus, there was a faint hint of pine leaves.

Smoother and wider walkways and a clearing at the end signified that we were nearer our goal. It was almost 6 p.m. and we had been walking for more than 3 hours.

Three kilometres covered! Just seven hundred meters to go.

At the outskirts of the village of Takahara, we saw this altar with two jizo.

Jizo are traditionally deities who are guardians of children -- those who have died or were unborn, miscarried or aborted.

This altar however houses a husband-and-wife jizo, protectors of couples' relationships.

If you look closer, there is a sake cup in front of one of thestone figures, I'm guessing it must be for the husband jizo.

We are very near the centre of Takahara -- just 400 meters away. We walked 3.3 kilometres to reach this point. We had also climbed to 317 meters, the altitude of this mountain-top village.

Marker number 7 is right by the roadway. Takahara seems sleepy and quiet -- it's just after 6 pm

but we did not pass a single person as we walked into the village.

The residents are used to pilgrims passing through -- as evinced by this handmade sign propped up against one of the houses.

Before we got to our hotel, we stopped at Takahara-jinja which is one of the oldest shrines of the Kumano Kodo.

Behind the shrine is the giant camphor tree that our guides tell me could be more than 800 years

old. It is enclosed by shimenawa, the rope seen in Shinto shrines signifying that this is a sacred place. Shide or lightning shaped paper cut-outs are hung on the shimenawa -- a sign that kami or deities are present here.

I bow my head in silent thanks to the kami of the tree for guiding my feet safely through the

ki-no ne or tree roots along the trail.

It's almost dusk as I snap this last photo, taking advantage of the soft natural light.

Takahara is surrounded by the beautiful Hatenashi Mountain range. It is this panoramic vista that

is my reward after a challenging but ultimately fulfilling first day's walk.

Lessons learned :

1. I do not know why luggage transfer from Tanabe City to Takahara was not recommended to us. Since we had suitcases, we took up all the aisle space in the bus and the local residents had to get around our luggage to get on and

off - sumimasen!

2. If you are inexperienced with tree roots and steep mountain trails, slow but sure is the best way to avoid accidents or spills.

3. Sticks or poles are essential in navigating your way along the uneven terrain.

Our first day's walk from Takijiri to Takahara was gruelling -- at least it was for me, an on-again-off-again hiker. It would be more dramatic to say that I crawled in on my hands and knees into our lodgings for the night but tired as I was, I still managed to saunter in upright on my own two feet.

It was dusk when we got to Takahara -- a tiny mountaintop village with an elevation of 317

meters and the temperature had dropped a few degrees.

Chilly as it was, a warm welcome awaited us as we walked into The Kiri-no-Sato Takahara Lodge. A government-built facility but now privately managed, this boutique hotel is rustic and pleasant.

Local Japanese wood -- perhaps from the very same trees that I had walked through in the forest,

is used extensively throughout -- reminding me of Alpine mountain lodges and Swiss chalets.

A hospitable touch was this jug of cold water infused with herbs from the hotel's organic garden.

Refreshing and instantly revitalising!

I was not prepared for this view that awaited me when I opened the door to our room for the night.

I literally gasped -- what a glorious sight!

The Hatenashi mountain range, framed by the masses of rhododendrons was a gift of grace that healed my spirit and nourished my soul.

All rooms in this small hotel have a small wooden deck, equipped with lounge chairs so you can step out and inhale the fresh mountain air. And of course, fill your eyes with the incomparable scenery.

I'm sorry but you'll have to suffer through this self indulgent photo. Jay and I were both absolutely overwhelmed with the view.

I could barely tear myself away from the room but dinner was to be served at 7 pm. We were a big group of 10 and the staff did a good job of seating us all together.

By the time I got to the dining room, everything was meticulously laid out.

Dinner was a showcase of traditional Japanese dishes. It was a tasty and tasteful collection of small and delicious morsels, a study in contrasting textures and flavours.

To start with, an assortment of tsukemono or pickles, with the ingredients picked from the lodge's organic gardens. The salty-tart flavours are meant to whet your appetite and open up the palate.

Two kinds of sashimi and boiled shellfish reminded me that even if Takahara is in the mountains,

it is part of the Kii Peninsula and the nearby towns are known for fresh fish and seafood.

A delicate creamy tofu with an unmistakeable peanut flavour was a surprising touch.

The main course was sukiyaki -- with tender mouthfuls of umami rich wagyu that just melted in the mouth. We each had individual cooking pots -- each one lit up by the attentive waitstaff at the precise moment before they brought out our bowls of steaming hot and fragrant rice.

Everything was done to perfection!

As we were nearly done, these small plates came out from the kitchen. Assorted bits of vegetables -- beans, radish, sprouts and ferns were coated with batter and lightly fried, tempura style.

The hotel proprietor came by to assure us that these were foraged from both the gardens and the mountainside right before they were cooked.

Instead of the usual tempura sauce, he encouraged us to use the sea salt on the side -- it did bring out the natural sweetness and freshness of the vegetables.

At the end of the table, standing on the right is one of the most convivial and gracious hosts that

I have ever met.

Jean san owns and runs the Lodge , on a long term lease from the government. He is Japanese and speaks English fluently although with a French accent. This is because he lived and studied in Paris for many years.

Jean san brings a definite fusion of European and Japanese touches into the hotel.

He made sure that everyone in the dining room was well attended to -- stopping to chat and give each guest his full and undivided attention.

After dinner it was time for onsen! While each rooms has an en suite toilet, baths are taken in the onsen -- segregated between males and females. Taking advantage of the fact that I was first in the bath and all alone, I sneaked this photo.

The onsen is spacious and very clean -- ideal for four or even five people to share.

The water was deliciously hot -- Jean san had said that the water comes from the natural springs at Wataze Onsen near Hongu and it is brought all the way into Takahara.

I enjoyed a long and much needed soak -- all the little knots and kinks just melted away.

A common feature in Japanese inns, hotels, ryokans, minshukus, etc. is the vending machine.

More convenient and certainly cheaper than room service, it is indispensable for any late night drinking plans. This particular one was stocked with among other things, cold Kirin Beer and

was conveniently located right outside the bath area -- how could I resist its glowing blue lights?

Jay doesn't drink but our millennial Amigo Mayk does. Kampai!

Our affable host Jean had told us that Takahara is also known as the "Village in the Mist".

At certain times of the year, the entire valley is covered with mist and clouds.

The next morning, I woke up at 5 to try and see if I would see this phenomenon but only a thin wisp was hovering above the Hatenashi mountains. It was still amazing though to wake up to this view.

Jay and I wandered out to the open air terrace just outside the dining room. Mismatched benches

and this table was the ideal spot for a pre-breakfast cup of coffee.

Used cork from empty wine bottles are strewn on top of this log. I was tempted to add the pull tabs from our cans of Kirin beer to this quirky but stylish arrangement.

I met this charming Japanese lady whose husband had celebrated his birthday the night before

(I know because the waiters brought out a cake and sung to him).

From Yokohama, she and her husband were also doing the Kumano Kodo and I would see them again at various stages of our hike.

The normal Japanese breakfast is composed of fish, rice and some side dishes.

We were served a fatty smoked mackerel, sweet with woody notes. It came with a tart dried plum or ume which is grown in the area, the ubiquitous crunchy tsukemono, a slice of tamagoyaki or rolled omelet and my favourite hijiki salad.

This healthy meal would fortify us for the long walk ahead.

One group photo in front of the Takahara Organic Lodge before we set off. Rejuvenated by a restful night in splendid surroundings, we were ready to move on.

Ikimasho!

Lesson learned : This is such a lovely place that it would be wonderful to come back. It would be a perfect place to relax for a night or two and spend the time exploring the small picturesque villages in the area. It is reachable by public bus from Kii Tanabe station.

First things first ... what is a "yama girl"? Yama means mountain in Nihongo and yama girls are Japanese women who like the outdoors -- hiking and trekking are their week-end pursuits.
They wear matching hiking gear from head to toe, often in pretty pastels or stylish prints.

But don't think of these fashionistas as lightweights -- they traipse up and down the mountainsides without even breaking a sweat. These women have mad mountain skills.

Now, I am not a "yama girl" -- far from it.

On Day 2 of our Kumano Kodo hike, we would be walking through the mountains from Takahara to Chikatsuyu, and I secretly wished I had a bit of "yama girl" in me, to help me through the trails.

We started the hike from the parking lot of Takahara Lodge where a sign directed us back onto the Kumano Kodo. It was a steep uphill climb for a few hundred meters over a paved footpath that passed through backyards and small terraced rice paddies.

Like the Camino de Santiago, the Kumano is well marked with directional signs. It will be hard to get lost, even if you are walking by yourself.

This well meaning sign just at the edge of Takahara states that Chikatsuyu, 9.7 kilometres away and our destination for today is a 3 to 4 hour walk.

Perhaps if I were a yama girl or a gazelle, I would make it in 3 to 4 hours.

I've learned that the Japanese compute distance and speed based on their own fast pace.

This is very much different from my reality -- what they call a 10 minute walk takes me 20 minutes.
I correctly predicted it would take me 8 hours (including water/toilet/lunch breaks) to finish the walk.

The steep footpath led us to this asphalt road. The wooden marker states #8 which means we

have travelled 4 kilometres since yesterday. Our target for today is marker 26 -- quite a way to go.

Today's walk at 9.7 kilometres would also be the longest leg on our Kumano Kodo.

Our guides had said that unlike the Takijiri to Takahara stretch which was mostly a long steep
climb, we would be going through both ascents and descents as we passed through the mountains.

At the exact boundary between village and mountain is this small altar . They are not jizo as I originally thought but are two Buddhist deities, tasked to protect Takahara from any evil.

The dirt path changed to cobblestones ands this portion is a steep ascent deeper into the mountain.

The moss makes the stones slippery so it's best to go slowly or step off onto the dirt track when possible. Tall cedar and cypress trees line the way. We hear the raucous caws of crows and the distinct trill of the uguisu or the japanese warbler.
Birdsong helps lighten the way and makes the climb a little less difficult.

There's a hut with a an official distance marker in front. There's someone sleeping inside so we

push on.

This carefully arranged pile of rocks catches my attention and our Mi Kumano guide Yamamoto san told me that these are made by hikers as a way of saying "I was here".

Here's a horizontal version -- carefully placed on a piece of wood. Someone took the time and the effort to choose the rocks and arrange them neatly, all in a row.

Our guide Yamamoto san pointed out this unusual plant growing by the mountain side. At first glance it seems like someone left behind a wadded up bunch of white tissue. This is the "silver dragon" plant, called ginryosou in Japanese. It has absolutely no chlorophyll which explains the absence of any green colour. Fascinating!

The ki-no ne or tree roots were pretty much absent for most parts of the walk. Instead we faced loose gravel and dried leaves -- tricky in their own right since they made the path slippery. At the end of this path the road turned right and we started to climb again.

The brief climb led us to Takahara-Ike, a small pond right in the centre of the mountain. The water was so vividly green, reflecting the masses of leaves that surround it. Can you see the small fish swimming in the water?

Signposts along the way point out the different Oji shrines. Oji are minor deities and there are various shrines along the Kumano Kodo where pilgrims could stop to rest and pray for safety along the way.

Wooden posts mark the shaded entry to Daimon-Oji. The small red structure houses the self stamping ink pad that pilgrims use to mark their booklets with.

Behind it are these two stones that mark the spot where the torii or gates of Daimon-Oji used to be.

The path turned narrow once again. I'm glad I do not suffer from acrophobia (fear of heights) or stenophobia (fear of narrow trails). Although I do have clumsi-mania (a strong urge to trip and fall) so I made sure to tread carefully and slowly.

During the walk, we would move to the side to let faster hikers pass through.

While there were not too many that day, we did meet this incredible 60+ year old man

running along the trail! He was getting ready for a trail running competition.

I was so amazed -- here I was, edging along snail-like on these narrow paths -- and here

was this fit and fast person, much older than me -- racing along the paths.

He was very friendly and stopped to chat with us and wish us well -- ganbatte!

After more rocky ascents and descents, it was a relief to reach Jujo-Oji a grassy clearing with some log benches and toilets.

Here are our Mi-Kumano guides -- Yamamoto san, third from left and at rightmost Michiko san,

a former marathoner. I don't remember seeing either one of them show any strain or effort at all,

as they navigated the hardest sections of the hike.

They were very helpful and solicitous, telling us where to pass and how to walk safely through the mountains.

There are jizos (statues of guardian deities) along the Kumano Kodo and as we stopped at this particular one called the Koban Jizo, Yamamoto san told us the sad story behind it.

A poor traveller passed away on the path with a koban or gold coin in his mouth.

The gold coin was meant for his expenses so he would not burden anyone who found him that he would be assured of a proper burial.

Coins and even a cup of sake have been left behind by pilgrims to honour his memory.

We climbed up and up on these narrow and seemingly endless trails. That is not a smile, that is a grimace of suffering that you can see on my face.

Michiko san stays behind me probably to make sure I do not roll off the mountain -- can you see

the steep slope right alongside?

From Takahara with an elevation of 317 meters, we reached the highest point on today's hike -- Uwadaya-Jaya Teahouse is 690 meters above sea level. In the olden days, tea houses were popular fixtures along the Kumano Kodo as they were places where pilgrims could refresh themselves and meet up with the local people.

We had walked almost 6 kilometres since we started and our guides assured us that after this highest peak on the mountain, the paths would start to descend.

This shows you just how narrow the paths can get. These paths must be impassable during the rainy season.

My old friends, the ki-no ne made a few cameo appearances today -- although not as pervasive or invasive as yesterday's climb from Takijiri to Takahara. Sometimes they did help, providing small footholds where you could securely plant your feet.

In steep descent, the ki-no ne was my friend, as they formed a network of irregular steps that

helped keep me from sliding straight down.

The sign marks the site of the Three Fold Moon Viewing Spot -- if you follow the trail going up on

the right, you'll see the place where legend has it that a monk saw the moon rise in three places.

I wonder what the scientific explanation of this phenomenon could be (perhaps too much sake or shochu, hmmm?)

From this marker, the Kumano Kodo continues on the left where the descent becomes difficult once more -- steep and perilous with a snarl of dried leaves, ki-no ne and small loose gravel on the narrow trails.

It looks very much like a snake is hanging from this tree.

I detest descents more than ascents -- they're extremely hard on the knees and ankles. Since I'm so uncoordinated, descents are particularly dicey as I always imagine falling forward on my face.

Full disclosure -- I did fall once on this day's hike but I landed on my butt. Thankfully, the ground was well padded with soft leaves and my bottom is well padded as well.

Here is Jay before going down a really steep switchback -- I remember wondering if I could just sit and inch my way down.

All of us successfully made it, thanks to Jay who showed the way and thanks to our expert guides who talked us through the descent. Please note, the descent started way ahead that red circle on the top right of this photo.

This is the marker for Oosakamoto-Oji -- time to stop for another stamp on our booklets.

Oosakamoto means "the bottom of the big slope" and I can heartily relate to that.

I am sure the deities still guarding this place helped keep us safe on the way down.

On the marker, it says that in 1109 a pilgrim mentions a snake like object hanging from a tree,

which once used to be a woman. I wonder if that is the same object that I just saw.

Our reward after traversing that challenging pass was this cooling and refreshing waterfall --

I longed to go down and wiggle my toes in the water.

We conquered the big slope of Oosako Pass!

We still had a few more trails to climb down from but once you have gotten through the "big slope" the rest comes easier.

Marker #23 -- just 3 more (or roughly 1.5 kilometres) to go!

At this point, the Kumano Kodo continues on towards Chikatsuyu but it also gives you the choice to make a detour at a rest stop on the highway across the trail.

This is the Kumano Kodo Nakahechi Michi-no-Eki which is right by Highway 311. This delightful rest stop has clean toilets, vending machines for all kinds of hot and cold drinks and a small store selling snacks, local specialties and shopping alert!!! -- all sorts of kawaiiKumano Kodo souvenir items.

The stone statue in front is of the young Emperor Kazan who lived in the 10th century and was one

of the early Imperial pilgrims along the Kumano Kodo. We would meet him later on during the walk.

If the shadows seem long it's because we reached this spot past 3 p.m. We had not eaten lunch and

I didn't realise how hungry I was until I tasted the ham and cheese sandwiches packed by Takahara Lodge.

It was difficult to put down our cold drinks but we needed to stop dawdling and get to Chikatsuyu. We had a pleasant but brief walk through quiet paved roads before entering the mountain once again.

A kilometre away is the Gyubadoji statue of the afore-mentioned Emperor Kazan.

A mere teen-ager when he ascended the throne, he was a victim of political intrigue and enjoyed just a brief reign.

Forced out of power, he lived the rest of his life as a wandering monk. The Kumano Kodo is full of these interesting stories, some of them poignant and sad. Hearing our guides talk about them makes me realise the historical and cultural significance of this pilgrimage even more.

Just past Marker #25, I finally get a glimpse of the houses and farms that make up the village of Chikatsuyu where we would be spending the night.

I breathed a sigh of relief -- after a day of walking up and down the steep and narrow mountain

trails, I had emerged, quite unscathed.

Perhaps just perhaps, there is a little bit of a "yama girl" in me after all!

Otsukaresama deshita!

Lessons learned:

1. When navigating narrow mountain paths, stay close to the mountain side.

2. Rains cause landslides so watch out for the loose parts of the trail, particularly near the slope.

3. There are many interesting things on the mountain but please, do not get any souvenirs, not even a stone.

The Kumano Kodo is a sacred path so please leave everything undisturbed.

When travelling through Japan-off-the-beaten-tourist-track, away from the bright lights and the big cities -- don't look for a Hilton or a Holiday Inn because there won't be any. Not even a Best Western.

At best, you'll probably find a small business hotel, part of a Japanese chain.
In the remote towns and hamlets, your best bet would be to stay in a minshuku -- Japan's version of the home stay. It's couch surfing Japanese style, long before couch surfing became popular.

After that muscle-straining, sometimes fingernail-biting 9.7 kilometre hike over the mountain
passes, we finally reached Chikatsuyu.

It was comforting to see these two large figures of the tanuki, that mythical beast modelled on
the Japanese racoon. It meant a warm welcome was waiting inside as these creatures are found in front of restaurants, bars and in this case, in front of Minshuku Nakano, our rest stop for the night.

Minshukus, for those who have yet to stay in one, is a family run operation -- these homes accept travellers and offer rooms with or without meals. As a guest, you stay with the family, eat at their table, use the shared bath and experience authentic Japanese culture up close and personal.

Some minshukus may be very old houses and some may have just a few rooms. They are modest and affordable and more often than not, your window into how the Japanese truly live.

Minshuku Nakano was a relatively modern residence with five rooms -- maybe the owners'

children had grown up and moved away and something needed to be done with all that space.

An older, one story structure is attached to the minshuku -- perhaps this was the original family home and where I suspect, the owners continue to stay.

When you enter a Japanese home, it is imperative to remove your shoes. You do this right past the door, at the small entryway called the genkan. Mind that you don't put your shoes on the wooden floor, only slippers are allowed on this area.

Minshuku Nakano has 3 tatami style guest rooms on the ground floor. Since we were the late stragglers, we had to climb these steep wooden steps up to the second floor where there were
two more rooms. Our entire group of 10 occupied the whole house for this night.

Here's our tatami style bedroom -- spare but cosy, with a small t.v. Later after dinner we would lay out our futons which were kept in the closet.

Nakano san had asked us what time would we want our dinner to be served. 7 p.m seemed reasonable as the couple would still have to wash and clean up after us. Minshukus are normally run by the family themselves, without any outside help.

We came down promptly at 7 to this appetising spread laid out on the tables in the living room.

It was a home cooked meal done by Mrs. Nakano herself. Each place setting was meticulously arranged -- the Japanese are perfectionists when it comes to food presentation. Each one of us had sashimi, a grilled fish, a pot of pork and mushroom nabe or hot pot and side dishes of tomatoes, eggplant and beans.

Itadakimasu!

Ayu or sweetfish is common in the area and I asked Mr. Nakano if the small grilled fish was an ayu. He said that this red spotted fish is called an amago, a type of salmon. Since he is an avid fisherman, he caught this fish himself.

When we arrived, Mr. Nakano was grilling the amago in the irori -- a traditional indoor sunken pit

that is used for both heating and cooking. The irori is no longer such a common sight in most homes and I was happy to see an actual one in use.

This nasu or eggplant with miso sauce was easily my favourite of the evening. The lightly broiled eggplant was sweet and instead of the usual miso glaze, Mrs. Nakano's version had a salty-spicy

miso based paste. Umai desu yo!

Good food and good friends deserve a bottle of beer -- thankfully, the minshuku has a stock of beer and you can order a bottle (or two) to go with the meal.

After the very satisfying dinner, time to head to the bath. The minshuku has separate facilities for men and women -- one toilet and one bath for each. Right outside the bath area is a lavatory where you can brush your teeth while someone else is using the bath. Very efficient and saves time for everyone.

The typical Japanese ofuro or bath has a shower area where you should very thoroughly soap and wash your entire body before you sink into the hot tub.

The bathtub is covered to keep the bathwater warm. Of course it would be ideal if you could be the first one in the bath but in case you find it a bit odd to soak in pre-used bathwater, you will just have to contend yourself with taking a shower.

The futons were clean and smelled so fresh -- Jay was asleep once his head hit the pillow.

O yasumi nasai!

I woke up very early to see this view from outside our bedroom window. Perhaps these are the very same mountains that I trudged through yesterday.

This part of Chikatsuyu is quiet and the houses are spaced well apart. I love that the mountains are so near -- surrounding the village and keeping it "hidden" and seemingly far away from it all.

I took a quick walk around the village -- some of the homes had plots of vegetables with leeks and onions growing by the roadside.

This very hard working lady was cutting the grass growing by her small rice paddy -- she said a friendly "Ohayo!" as I passed by before getting back to her task.

By the time I returned to the minshuku, breakfast was ready. A slice of grilled salmon was augmented by egg and slices of sausages -- it was a western/japanese blended breakfast!

We were ready and out of the door by 8 a.m. to start our third day of walking. Like the gracious and hospitable hosts that they were, the Nakanos stood patiently by the front yard to properly see us off. They were still standing there, waving when I turned the corner and walked down the road.

Lessons learned : Minshuku Etiquette 101
1. Always change to the house slippers when you enter the doorway.
2. Leave the slippers outside your room, do not use them on the tatami mats.
3. When using the toilet, leave the slippers outside the door. There will be slippers inside, specifically for use in the toilet.
4. If you plan to use the ofuro or common bath, clean yourself very well with soap and water before soaking in the tub.
5. It's early lights out in the minshuku and guests are normally expected to check out after breakfast.

After 2 days of hardscrabble climbing (and descending) through challenging trails, I was finally coming to terms with the mountain passes of the Kumano Kodo.
As I trudged along, I thought of the monks, the emperors, the ordinary pilgrims of a thousand years ago and felt honoured that in my own small way, I was tracing their footsteps.
A pilgrimage is meant to involve sacrifice and some sort of suffering -- pilgrims specially the monks did the Kumano Kodo as part of their ascetic practices.
While there was nothing quite ascetic about my pilgrimage -- with creature comforts of
delicious food, comfortable places to sleep and no luggage on my back -- walking through
unfamiliar and difficult terrain did push me out of my comfort zone.

Our third day's hike started with a bus ride out of Chikatsuyu. Thirty minutes later, we were at the

Hongu Taisha- mae bus stop where our Mi-Kumano guides were waiting for us. The Kumano Grand Shrine was a mere five minute walk away but we were not headed there, at least not just yet.

From here we would take another bus ride to Hosshinmon-Oji, where we would start our day's walk that would eventually lead us back here -- to the Grand Shrine itself.

Just behind the bus stop is the torii that marks the entrance to Oyunohara, where the Grand Shrine Hongu Taisha used to stand. Floods in the late 19th century caused the shrine to be moved out of this area to its current location, about 500 meters away.

Not as famous perhaps as the bright red "floating torii" in Miyajima, this concrete structure however is the largest torii in the world.

It is a magnificent sight, framed by the mountains of the Kii Peninsula.

It was a short bus ride from Hongu Taisha-mae to Hosshinmon-Oji.

The signpost states that the walk back to Hongu Taisha would be just 6.9 kilometres.

Across the bus stop is this simple torii guarding a small Shinto shrine.

This is Hosshinmon-Oji, one of the most important Oji shrines along the Kumano Kodo.

It is also called "The Gateway of Awakening of the Aspiration to Enlightenment"as it borders

the outer edges of the Hongu Taisha, one of the three Grand Shrines that are the objects of the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage.
If enlightenment sounds very much like a Buddhist aspiration, the Kumano Kodo, essentially a
Shinto pilgrimage, has many ties to Buddhism. The pilgrimage is closely associated with Koyasan, the "Vatican" of Shingon Buddhism and the start of the Kohechi route, one of the most difficult routes on the Kumano Kodo.

If the objective of the Camino de Santiago is to reach the Cathedral at Santiago de Compostela, the pilgrims of Kumano Kodo have to visit each one of the three Kumano Grand Shrines -- the Hongu Taisha, the Hayatama Taisha and Nachi Taisha.

I pay my respects at the shrine and hope that I too may find some enlightenment on this pilgrimage. The ritual at a Shinto shrine is as follows:

1. Purify yourself with water at the temizuya;

2. Standing with respect in front of the shrine, bow twice;

3. Clap your hands twice, to call the kami of the shrine

4. Bow once and pray.

Before we leave Hosshinmon-Oji, our guide Wada san points out this inscription on a piece of rock. It is a poem written by a famous Japanese poet from the 12th century.

The story goes that a nun who used to live near this shrine was visited by this poet and enjoyed her kindness and hospitality. In appreciation, he composed this poem and scribbled it on her wall.

Unfortunately, this did not sit well with her and she erased it, much to the poet's chagrin, I can imagine.

To make up for this, the poem has been immortalised on this rock -- his words resonate through the ages.

And dear reader -- I researched so you would not have to, these are the words of the poem:

"I' ve managed at last today to attain the fruitful land trying never to return to the six realms of existence."

Wada san said that today's 6.9 kilometre walk was easily the most popular along the Nakahechi route. We would wind our way through small villages, easy forest trails and low mountain passes.

My leg muscles all heaved a sigh of relief.

We saw marker #62 -- we would end at marker #75. Not too long a walk -- it would be a breeze!

This poster reminded us that we were still in the countryside and that certain risks lurked --

perhaps in the tall grass around us. This is a warning about the poisonous mamushi or pit viper.

That's where walking sticks can help -- as you place them on the ground ahead of you, any snakes along the path are given fair warning to get out of your way.

And anyway perhaps death would not be instantaneous from a mamushi bite, Wada san said he had been bitten by one as a child and he survived.

It was a lovely day -- perfect for walking along these quiet back roads. Do you see the red circle

in the photo above? According to Wada san, that was the halfway point and where we would be stopping for lunch.

The roads were just wide enough for one car to pass although hardly any did. It was a gorgeous
day to be outside.

These small villages in the hills are landlocked without access to fire hydrants.

This cement pools is where the villagers keep water to use in case a fire breaks out.

This unmanned store had a number of folk art wood carvings -- I don't know if they were for sale since there were no price tags. There were owls (symbols of happiness for the Japanese) the maneki-neko or waving cat and some Buddhist statues.

A few steps further on, this large wooden cat with bright yellow eyes stood in front of a woodshed.

This must be the artist's house as there are more statues in front and what seems to be a workshop right beside. It would have been nice to see if he had any small pieces for sale as everything

I had seen would not have fit in my suitcase.

These shady paved paths were a delight to walk on although I must admit, I did miss my old friends the ki-no ne ... just a little bit.

There are jizo or guardian deities all along the Kumano Kodo. Traditionally they are guardian
deities for children but they are also revered for other purposes. This one, almost hidden behind a
tree, is a "dentist" jizo.

Wada san explained that centuries ago, people in these remote areas did not have the services of
dentists so this jizo was their recourse when toothaches came along.

And no, it is not the tooth fairy jizo so it doesn't give you money when you lose your tooth.

A grassy clearing is our next stop. Mizunomi-Oji as the name suggests (mizu is the Japanese word for water) was where a spring was discovered making it a favourite stop for ancient pilgrims.
An elementary school building stands in the grounds but it has been closed for some time for lack
of students.

There are a pair of jizos decked out in polk dot bibs alongside an engraved stone. Wada san tells us that these are the jizo for backaches. I think of them as the "chiropractor" jizos.

Apparently the "chiropractor" jizo is still at work to this day. The statue is split in half and if you
lift it and place an offering of a coin in the space in the middle, your backaches will be cured!
Here is Jay hoping that the jizo will ease his aches and pains.

Perennially red Japanese maples make me think of autumn -- it's a pretty sight as we leave Mizunomi-Oji.

There is a brief interlude of a shaded forest path -- tall cedars and cypresses provide some relief from the heat of midday.

All too soon, we are back on the paved road passing by gardens and front yards. There is an early blooming hydrangea -- the bushes will be in full bloom by June.

This area has a number of small tea plantations -- they're very neatly arranged along the slope.

We came upon a farmer manually drying tea leaves in his front yard -- he graciously agreed to have his photo taken as he continued with his work.

Aside from tea, oranges are also plentiful in this village. The farmer had a stand in his driveway
with oranges and packs of tea for sale -- honour system applies, just leave the payment in the small plastic bin.

Oranges are a good source of sweet hydration on this hot day so we completely obliterate his supply. At 50 yen each, it was cheaper and definitely healthier than buying a bottle of juice.

We climb a small hill and look back to the point from where we started, the area I have encircled
in red. It's been a pleasant 3 kilometre walk thus far.
This is my romanticised idea of a hike, a gentle picturesque stroll over easy hills and shaded paths.

At the top of this little rise is a delightful rest stop -- complete with snacks, drinks, a few souvenir items and a marvellously clean toilet. Managed and maintained by the community, it is staffed by volunteers who keep everything in tip-top condition.

We meet up with the rest of the Amigos - the ones who walk much faster and are usually at least an hour or two ahead of me on the trail.

We had homemade onigiri (rice balls) in our lunch box packed by Mrs. Nakano.

My favourite was the one wrapped in mustard leaf. Kept fresh in a bamboo sheath, it was an

eco-friendly and healthy meal.

To go with our onigiri, Jay and I had iced coffee and fresh shiso juice. The red shiso leaf

is used for this refreshing, thirst quenching drink. The ladies at the rest stop said that both drinks were made with the natural spring water in the area.
Oishii desu yo!

Right across the rest stop is Fushiogami-Oji, one of the important stops along the Kumano Kodo. We climb a few steep stone steps to reach the look out point.

For pilgrims who had endured through all kinds of hardship along the ancient trails, this hill on
which Fushiogami-Oji stands is the first time they see their destination - the red encircled area in
the far horizon is where the Kumano Grand Shrine Hongu Taisha stands.

As they were overwhelmed by how near their goal was, pilgrims fell to their knees and prayed --

which is what the word "fushiogami" literally means.
It's a tradition that modern pilgrims follow so naturally, I got down on my knees and said a prayer
of thanks ... that I too was so near to achieving my goal.

After Fushiogami-Oji, we pass more terraced tea plantations. Looking at the steep sloping rows of tea plants, I would hate to be the one to harvest those tea leaves.

A short walk into the forest and we come to this bridge over a cement road. We are less than 2 kilometres away from our destination.

This narrow trail through the forest leads to Koyasan, 70 kilometres away. This is the well known Kohechi Route, characterised by its length and difficulty as it cuts through high and dangerous passes and recommended only for experienced mountain hikers.
I can imagine the relief of the pilgrim who would emerge from this path, knowing that
Hongu Taisha is well within reach.

I was enjoying this walk so much -- the mountain trails were the widest we had been on and I did not fear falling off the mountain at all.

Of course we had to pass through some difficulties before the walk ended. A short but steep climb

on irregularly placed stone steps and my on-again, off-again friends, the ki-no ne made an appearance just as I was lulling myself to complacency.

And since what goes up must come down -- the descent over the same terrain had my knees begging for mercy.

Thankfully relief was in sight. We left the mountain and walked this shaded path to the last few hundred meters to Hongu Taisha.

Just before we entered the shrine grounds, we made a brief stop at Haraido-Oji. Shaded by centuries old trees, the shrine was the last stop for pilgrims to purify themselves before they entered the sacred precincts of the Grand Shrine.

This plain wooden torii marks the back entrance to Hongu Taisha. There is a grander and more impressive one at the front entrance but it was more satisfying to enter through this simpler, almost austere entrance.

The first building I saw was this Grand Shrine Hall, a beautiful wooden structure with the trademark roof and bronze ornaments of a Shinto shrine. The roof abuts over the front and over the steps, extending the shrine's protection to pilgrims and visitors.

A few steps away is the entrance to the inner shrine of Hongu Taisha. Note the thick
shimenawa made of hemp hanging from the wooden beams. The shimenawa are symbols of purification and can be seen in all Shinto shrines.

Hongu Taisha is wide and low and sweeping. It houses the deity Izenagi-Okami, who gave birth to Japan as well as the deities of the two other Kumano shrines of Hayatama and Nachi.
Japanese cypress and cedars grow tall at the back of the shrine.

I love the plain unvarnished look of Hongu Taisha. Among the three Grand Shrines, it is the only
one not painted in bright vermillion red.

The natural unpainted buildings blend well with the trees that surround it -- where does the shrine
end and where do the trees begin?

It feels like a place that the kami -- the spirits of the forests, the mountains, the earth and the trees would feel truly at home in.

I found this marker on the road just before I entered the grounds of Hongu Taisha. It reminded me
of my own journey, walking through the beauty of the mountains and forests on the Nakahechi route.
As in the Camino de Santiago, you find your way by walking, but by walking, you also find a bit
of yourself.
To paraphrase Buddha -- the way is not in the Camino or the Kumano Kodo, the way is in your heart.
And I think that is about the most enlightened I will ever get.

On our third night on the Kumano Kodo, we were booked in a ryokan in Yunomine, an onsen

town close to the Grand Shrine of Hongu Taisha.

Onsen is a Japanese natural hot spring that contains all sorts of minerals -- depending on what
these are, the water can be good for the skin and for body aches and pains.

I think one reason why the Japanese have such smooth, lovely skin is their fondness for onsen.

A regular soak in a mineral rich bath would do wonders for anyone's complexion.

An onsen town is where volcanic activity has resulted in a proliferation of hot springs. Yunomine,

a small and quiet village nestled in between the mountains along the Kumano Kodo is

one of Japan's oldest onsen with over 1,800 years of history (and a lot of bathing) behind it.
It's also home to the only UNESCO World Heritage cited onsen -- Tsuboyu Bath.
This was one onsen I definitely had to try.

We were booked in Iseya Ryokan, conveniently right in front of the bus stop. Like the minshuku,

the ryokan is a Japanese-style lodging but is bigger and more upmarket. Minshuku are traditional mom-and-pop family operations. Ryokan are more like small luxury boutique hotels -- it's very much worth the experience to stay in one.

The ryokan will always have a traditional tatami room and most have a small balcony where you can relax and enjoy the view (and yes, a few ice cold beers).

All the ryokans and accommodations in Yunomine have their own private baths for their guests.

If this is your first time in an onsen, a sign posted outside the bath states the rituals and rules of

onsen bathing.

Refreshed after our bath, Jay and I ventured out while there was still some light left in the day.

You might be thinking ... "How very crass, they're wandering around in their nightgowns!".

Yes indeed, yukatas provided for each guest in both minshukus and ryokans are worn to bed.

But paired with the happi coat -- the short, broad sleeved jacket that one wears over the yukata,

these are normal for guests to wear as they stroll outside the ryokan. People walking around in yukatas and happi coats are a common sight in onsen towns like Yunomine.

The river Yunotani flows clear and swiftly through the village. The wooden structure you see on the left is the public "cooking onsen" where you can boil eggs, vegetables, potatoes in water that comes from the underground hot springs of Yunomine. Right behind it is a statue of a jizo -- the guardian of the hot spring waters.

The light was fading fast and lights were coming on along the main street of Yunomine. All the buildings on either side of the road are ryokans or minshukus and on this weekday night, things

were pretty quiet, unlike on week-ends when crowds fill up all the accommodations.

In the distance are the mountains along the Kumano. Yunomine is one of the most picturesque and quaint onsen towns I have been to.

After dinner, we set out to try Tsuboyu Onsen. Because this is such a popular site,

and the only World Heritage onsen, visits are scheduled by 30 minute time slots.

You are given your time slot at the ticket office which is right by the town's public bath and for

770 yen, you get entrance to both.

Since it was a weeknight with not too many people, we were lucky that we hardly had to wait.

We were number 21 and number 20 was already in the bath. The ticket seller told us that during week-ends a two to three hour wait was considered normal.

Ancient pilgrims on the Kumano Kodo made Tsuboyu a popular stop, purifying themselves in the

hot spring waters before visiting the three Kumano Kodo shrines.

Local legend states that a prince in the 15th century who was near death was miraculously cured

after a bath at Tsuboyu. I am sure it will do wonders for me too.

Tsuboyu is very small -- good for just 2 people, three would be a tight squeeze. Use the

bamboo dippers to clean yourself with the water from the faucet before you get into the bath.

Bring your towel from the ryokan to dry yourself after.

If you find the water too hot (and yes, it is), open the faucet for cold water to run into the bath.

The wooden pole you see hanging on the wall is to stir the water to cool it down somewhat.

And of course mind the clock to remind you to leave when your 30 minutes are up.

Don't worry about someone barging in on you -- the door has a secure lock.

The pool is small and the waters were extremely hot -- we opened the faucet and let some cold

water flow but it was still hotter than normal. It is said that the colour of the water changes depending on the time of day but since we only went once, I have no way to verify this.

It was a milky blue late at night.

There was a faint smell of sulphur but it was not unpleasant. I was told that the waters

are good for all sorts of diseases like rheumatism and even diabetes.

I normally like a very hot onsen so Tsuboyu was perfect for me. Although I did get out a few

times to cool myself down with a dipperful of cold water before getting back in for a hot soak.

We faithfully followed our allotted time of 30 minutes. Tsuboyu is open from 6 a.m. to 9:30 p.m.

and we were one of the last to use the bath. This tanuki was waiting for us when we stepped out in the cold night air.

Bright and early the next morning, we posed in our yukatas by the Yunotani river. In an hour, we'd

be on the bus out of Yunomine.

After that restorative bath in Tsuboyu, I felt purified and ready to continue on my Kumano Kodo pilgrimage.

Lessons Learned:

1. I was so sleepy after soaking in Tsuboyu that I missed using the public bath. If you go, you can use the public bath first while waiting for your turn at Tsuboyu.

2. If you plan to go to Tsuboyu in the morning, you'll have to be an early riser. The ticket seller said that people start to queue as early as 4:30 or 5 in the morning.

Pilgrims have been enduring hardships and walking the Kumano Kodo for a thousand years.

But in the early days, a select group of pilgrims, composed of royalty and later on the aristocrat class, had access to another, easier way of doing part of the pilgrimage -- they sailed down the Kumanogawa on their way to visit the three Kumano Grand Shrines.
Ensconced in the comfort and luxury of their royal boats, they could relax and just drift down
the river.

On the fourth day of our pilgrimage and on our way to visit the second shrine, the Hayatama Taisha, we did as the emperors and aristocrats did (although not in such style) ... we traveled part of the way by traditional boats along the river.

Our expedition started at the KawabuneRiver Boat Tour Center where we had reservations to the 10:00 a.m. sailing. To get there, we took a bus from Yunomine and got off at the bus stop at Hitari. Then we got into a shuttle bus for the short ride to the riverbank where the boats were waiting for us.

Part of the safety regulations had us wearing bright orange life jackets. We were also given native straw hats (which looked so much like our own salakot) as protection from the heat of the sun.

The flat bottomed boats are modelled after the original ones that used to ply these waters, centuries and centuries ago. As a nod to modernity (and faster travel time) the boats have been outfitted with powerful motors.

Each boat can carry just eight people, including the guide and the boatman.

While pilgrims of old took days to sail down 40 kilometres of the Kumanogawa, we would

journey over 16 kilometres and take just 90 minutes to do so.

As in every river, lake, pond, brook, stream, etc that I have seen in Japan, the waters are crystal clear.

As we sailed through the twists and bends of the river, the water changed colour but it was always beautifully translucently clean ... in the shallower portions, I could see all the way down to the rocks at the bottom.

Our guide was multi-lingual. As we were a mix of Japanese and Filipinos, he switched his commentary from Nihongo to English with great ease.

While the boat was equipped with a motor, we did pass through some rapids where the skill of
the pilot was put to good use. Would you believe that our pilot, this man in white standing at the back of the boat, is more than 80 years old? He was so fit and looked cool and hip.
Our guide said he had been doing this for almost sixty years.

There are quite a number of interesting and unique rock formations that we passed through.
One large pile of rocks looked to me like a large sleeping puppy.

We got out of the boat for a brief look-see and our resident professional geologist and
amigo Mike, could not resist scrambling up for a photo.

It was great to be out in the middle of the river, surrounded by the splendour of Mother Nature.

And being on a boat was definitely less tiring than walking.

The perfect soundtrack to this blissful boat ride was the sound of wild birds. They would fly high above our boats and sometimes gracefully skim the waters. They were so swift though and wouldn't keep still for a photo.

We saw this lone fisherman on the riverbank. I wonder what kind of fish live in the Kumanogawa?

As we neared our destination, the boat slowed down to a stop and our guide whipped out a small native flute. He serenaded us with a lilting melody that he said was what the royal party in the olden days would have listened to as their boats traveled down the river.
It was like sailing back in time.

Our boat ride ended quite near our goal for today -- the second Kumano Grand Shrine, the
Hayatama Taisha. The shrine is located by the Kumanogawa in Shingu City.
We were met by our local Mi-Kumano guides and Shingu City residents Masako san and Hitomi san.

Shinto venerates all of nature. The past four days, our pilgrimage had exposed us to the beauty,
the majesty and yes, the power of nature.
The kami or gods are everywhere. I am sure they are present in this sacred tree, a nagi-no ki that is over 800 years old. It is one of the significant sights in Hayatama Taisha. Long may it continue to thrive.

There is a small building guarded by a fierce looking statue. This is where Hayatama Taisha's historical and cultural artefacts are kept -- many of them are considered as National Treasures of Japan.

The entrance to the main shrine of Hayatama Taisha is vividly vermillion and as in all Shinto shrines, is adorned with a thick shimenawa hanging from its posts. It is customary to purify yourself at the temizuya and bow before you cross the threshold.

Hayatama is a most important shrine because this is where the gods Kumano Hayatama no Omikami, Kumano Musubi no Omikami and Ketsumi Miko Omikami are enshrined.

The gods originally descended atop a steep hill within the Hayatama compound. There is a shrine there called Kamikura jinja but to reach it, you need to climb over 500 steep and uneven stone steps. However, for pilgrims on the Kumano Kodo, it is mandatory to visit only the Hayatama Taisha.

We take our requisite photo in front of the shrine and with this, we have completed two thirds of our Kumano Kodo pilgrimage.

There are minor shrines within the compound like this one, which is located near the main entrance.

From this point, it was just a few steps on to the sidewalks of Shingu City. As I crossed the small bridge, I looked back at the torii guarding the entrance and bowed deeply -- bidding the gods farewell.

Having visited two of the three Grand Shrines, my Kumano Kodo pilgrimage was nearing its end. And yet somehow, I just wanted to keep on walking.

Lessons Learned

1. The sun can be quite fierce on the open-air boats, don't forget your sunblock (as I did).
2. You can't bring your backpacks and handbags on board the boat, for obvious safety reasons. They will put your things on the shuttle bus and give them back to you at the end of the ride. Bring a small plastic bag to keep your camera and gadgets in so they won't get wet.

Shingu City is where Hayatama Taisha, a Kumano Grand Shrine is located. It is the biggest attraction for tourists but many probably visit the shrine then hop on the train or bus to Nachi Taisha, the other Kumano Shrine less than an hour away.
Which is a shame because Shingu City is not without its charms.

After visiting the shrine, we decided to explore the little that we could of Shingu City by heading to
a local restaurant for lunch. Our Mi-Kumano guides led us through a shotengai, a classic covered shopping arcade which is something you find in older districts all over Japan.

I love a traditional shotengai -- it's retro and vintage and it's where the locals shop . I find it more interesting and irresistible than the cookie-cutter mall or department store.

The tiles on the shotengai had drawings of various kinds of fish -- perhaps these are what can be found in the waters around the coast of Shingu.

Shingu City's shotengai was more vintage than most as you can see from this small electronics shop.

They even had video cassette tapes for sale!

This shop sells all sorts of dry goods -- from ready to wear aprons to yarns and thread for knitting or crocheting.

These three ladies gamely posed for me. They were selling homemade fruit jams and preserves and were very happy when I bought some.

The restaurant was just a few hundred meters walk from the end of the shotengai. We arrived past lunchtime so the crowds had come and gone. The restaurant's name is"Masaya", which means "happy" in Tagalog so I was sure we would be in for a happy meal.

Walking into the restaurant, I thought I had stumbled through the wrong door and landed in the owners' living room. But amidst the clutter were some tables and chairs so this was definitely the first floor dining area.

Framed photos, paintings, messages and all sorts of memorabilia crowded the walls. Masaya looks like a much visited local restaurant.

We were taken to the second floor dining area where they had thoughtfully placed three tables end to end so we could all sit together.

Our guides had said that while Masaya serves different kinds of Japanese dishes, their specialty was their homemade udon. I ordered cold udon and a plain onigiri with pickled ginger on the side.

The noodles were firm and chewy and when dipped in the cold soy based sauce with a sprinkling of tanuki and green onion, it was a refreshing dish to slurp down on this really warm day.

It also helped to wash down the cold udon with this even colder bottle of Sapporo beer. Kanpai!

We were all craving for dessert after the meal so our guides decided to let us have a taste of Shingu City's most famous hot weather treat -- kakigori.

Kakigori is the Japanese version of the snow cone but much more refined and delicate in both texture and taste. It's a nostalgic, old fashioned treat that continues to be much in demand -- specially during the summer months.

This unassuming little kiosk is Nakakoriten -- which apparently serves the best kakigori this side of Wakayama.

Nakakoriten is run by a husband and wife team. There are various flavours you can choose from -- melon, strawberry, yuzu, matcha, pineapple, mandarin orange ... too many choices for my indecisive stomach.

This place is so renowned for its kakigori that even celebrities from Tokyo and Korean K-pop stars have come to pay their respects and of course chill to a glass of flavoured shaved ice.

Our hot and sweaty bunch of Amigos queue up for kakigori. No cutting in line!

This tall snowy concoction is made with Japanese citrus and drizzled with some sweetened milk -- surprisingly the flavours blend so well together. Unlike snow cones, kakigori ice is shaved ultra

fine -- which makes it melt on your tongue in a deliciously cold puddle.

You may order your kakigori in a combination of two or three flavours -- Jay had a strawberry

and melon kakigori that almost looked like a Christmas ornament.

I ordered matcha or green tea, another staple flavour. It goes best with the adzuki or sweet bean topping, drizzled with some more matcha powder.

If you are eating in, the kakigori is always served in large glass bowls or goblets, quite an elegant touch.

Relishing each cold spoonful of the kakigori brought back fond memories of the humble snow

cones from my childhood. Nothing can bring back nostalgia faster than a memory of a favourite taste.

P.S.

Thank you to our Mi-Kumano guides for the day -- left to right Hitomi san,Masako san and of course our kababayan Jennifer san who had been with us since Day 1 of our Kumano Kodo.

We would not have had such happy meals here in Shingu City if not for their delicious recommendations.

Its proximity to Nachi Taisha, the third Kumano Grand Shrine and the last we had yet to visit,
was the reason for spending our last night at Katsuura -- a coastal town facing the Pacific Ocean.
I couldn't believe we were on our last night -- tomorrow morning after the visit to the shrine,
our Kumano Kodo pilgrimage would be finished.

We were booked at Minshuku Wakatake, just a few steps away from the Kii Katsuura station. This plain white building houses about 15 rooms on the second and third floors. Happily, it also has hot spring or onsen baths as Katsuura is also known as one of the onsen towns in Wakayama Prefecture.

Don't worry if there's no one in the reception area, just ring the bell and one of the owners will pop out from the kitchen.

The minshuku is run by a young husband and wife team, assisted by a few waitstaff in the dining area. This cute signboard is proudly displayed on the reception desk.

I learned the husband is the chef and plans all the meals served to the guests.

I liked the homespun appeal of Minshuku Wakatake. Our tatami room had a small section that included a sink and a window which looked out onto the railway station. Rooms do not include ensuite toilets but there are a couple on each floor. And of course, baths are taken in the onsen area.

It was still bright outside so we set out to discover what we could of the town.

A large map gave us some information -- aside from its significance

to the Kumano Kodo, Katsuura is also a major fishing port, a town rich with hot springs, a jump

off point to several scenic islands and with a train station that links the town to the big cities of Osaka and Nagoya.

Hot springs are abundant in Katsuura and a foot onsen just in front of the station is a nice way to sample the town's mineral rich waters. The water is pleasantly warm though I could stand to have it a bit hotter.

Like most small towns, Katsuura seems to shut down after 5 p.m. Most of the stores in the covered shopping arcade or shotengai had closed down for the day.

This logo found in the shotengai aptly shows the town's two main offerings -- onsen and fishing.

While most of the stores were closed, the restaurants and izakayas were just starting to open their doors for the evening crowd.

The fishing port of Katsuura is Wakayama's version of Tsukiji. A significant portion of the tuna caught in Japanese waters finds its way to this port where it is sold by auction, much like its counterpart in Tokyo.

There are a number of large onsen hotels in Katsuura, easily seen from the boardwalk. Small ferry boats by the pier bring guests to and from these resort hotels.

We made it back to the hotel in time for dinner which was served in a large tatami dining area.

Behind Jay, you can see a group of elderly Japanese men who had already sampled the pleasures of the minshuku's onsen and were comfortably attired in their yukatas.

That short walk around the town made for thirsty work -- good thing that beer was available for dinner. Instead of taking the usual draft beer from the major brewers, I decided to try a bottle of the local craft beer.

The label shows the 3-legged crow, the symbol of the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage.

The beer was a golden amber ale, rich and fruity and with a strong white foamy head. Very nice and easy on the palate.

We had all ordered the Seafood Course and were pleasantly surprised to see that sukiyaki was part of the set. This certainly made the carnivores quite happy. In addition, there was a tasty miso glazed savoury eggplant side dish, tuna sashimi and a small dish of pickled tuna.

The main course was tuna collar -- deep fried instead of grilled as I normally have it.

It was well seasoned, juicy and not at all oily.

The next morning Jay and I woke up before 6 a.m. to try and see if there was some action happening at the much vaunted fish port. Unfortunately since it was Sunday, the whole place was closed, no seafood market, no small kiosks selling fresh-from-the-sea tekkadon ... nothing. We had to leave

with sad hearts and even sadder stomachs.

We did discover more free foot onsen right across the fish port. I can imagine this must be a busy place when the port and market are open.

We did not stay hungry for long. We came back to the minshuku to find that breakfast had been served. It was very traditional Japanese breakfast, complete with my personal favourite ... sticky, gooey natto. These fermented soybeans may be an acquired taste for some but it is a delicacy for me.

Fortified with the goodness of natto beans, the Amigos were ready for the last hike of our Kumano Kodo pilgrimage!

On the last day of our Kumano Kodo, I woke up with the thought that my hiking days were almost over. There was one shrine left to visit -- Nachi Taisha. Located at the top of Mt Nachi, we would reach it by bus but with a bit of climbing left to do.

The bus terminal is right by the Kii Katsuura railway station. This makes it convenient for those who come from Osaka or even Nagoya and who have time only for a day trip to the shrine.

The round trip ticket will save you a few hundred yen. We all needed to go our separate ways after lunch, so we took the 8:25 a.m. bus to give us enough time to get back to Katsuura. There are buses that leave earlier, the first at 6:45 and again at 7:25. But those were a bit too early for us.

After a short 20 minute ride, we got off the bus at the stop for Daimonzaka -- which literally means "gate to the slope". Nachi Taisha is located on Mt. Nachi, just up ahead.

Near the bus stop is this familiar marker which we first saw at Takijiri Oji,

at the start of our hike. The marker states that the Grand Shrines of the Kumano Kodo as well
as other landmarks and areas in the Kii Peninsula are UNESCO World Heritage Sites.

Here is the map that shows the way to the shrine. I've marked the various points -- the red circle shows the bus stop where we got off. Next is Daimonzaka (orange circle) which are the stone steps that lead to the shrine.

From Daimonzaka, we would continue to walk up to Nachi Taisha (pink circle) and then walk down to the bus stop (yellow circle) that would take us back to Katsuura. This bus stop is also nearest Nachi no Taki or Nachi Falls.

Some visitors opt to do a counterclockwise route -- by getting off the bus at the yellow circle and walking their way down to the red circle.

A plain stone torii marks the start of the sacred grounds of Nachi. Past the small red bridge are a few souvenir huts before you reach the stone staircase of Daimonzaka which will lead you up from the base to the mid point of Mt Nachi.

At the very start of the stairs are a pair of giant cedar trees that are said to be 800 years old.
These are known as the meoto-sugi or husband and wife trees so called because their roots are entwined at the base, underneath the stone steps.

We begin the steep and very crowded ascent of Daimonzaka.
As it is a Sunday, we are inundated with busloads of Japanese tourists who much to my chagrin,
bound up the uneven stone steps with such ease.
For those who need assistance, bamboo walking sticks are available, use them and leave them at the top when you finish your climb.

The air that surrounds Daimonzaka is suffused with a primordial energy -- these stone steps date
back hundreds and hundreds of years. Trodden and well worn with the steps of countless pilgrims,
I can feel and understand the attraction and powerful pull of the Kumano Kodo.

We dawdle along the slope and soon it is completely quiet and there is no one around but us.

The giant camphor, cedar and bamboo trees along the steps keep us cool on this warm summer day. It is an incredible walk up this ancient stone staircase. Surrounded by the forest, one can feel the strong chi or energy coming from this natural environment.

While picturesque and photogenic, Daimonzaka is also quite a bit of a walk.
There are almost 270 steps, some of them steeply inclined, that go on for over 600 meters, with a
rise in elevation of 100 meters.

You need to watch your step as it's easy to trip over the broken and unevenly placed stones.

I see my dear old friends, the ki-no ne or tree roots and say a fond farewell to them.
Perhaps we will meet again someday?

Past the midway point, we came upon a group of Japanese ladies excitedly peering through the
trees. They quickly motion me over to point out a tiny but distinct glimpse of Nachi-no-Taki or
Nachi Waterfalls.

Along the way, we saw this hollowed out tree, so massive that four or even five people would comfortably fit inside.

The light at the top of the steps means we are nearing the end of the slope. It has been an invigorating and unique experience, climbing the Daimonzaka.

At the top of the steps, I take one last look back. With a slight rustle, the trees seem to shroud the stone steps. If it disappeared before my very eyes, I don't think I would have been that surprised.

A signpost shows the way to the shrine complex. We are headed for the direction of Nachi Taisha and Nachi no Taki.

It's a bit of a let down to come upon this concrete car park that mars the natural beauty of the place. While I realise a car or taxi could have brought me up here, I would not have exchanged going up the Daimonzaka for that convenience.

There are more steps to climb on the way to the shrine. As in most major temples and shrines there are shops selling souvenirs, amulets and crafts along the way. The shops in Nachi are located along this stone staircase. You can do some shopping as you stop to catch your breath.

These wooden masks and statues would make such great souvenirs but Jay calls them "dust gatherers" so all I can do is look and admire.

There are also figurines made of a type of jet black stone -- these come from the Kii Peninsula Mountain range.

For thirsty pilgrims, there are bottles of water and tea set out by the side. Naturally cooled by flowing mountain water, I can imagine how refreshing these must be.

At the top of the steps is a large torii that marks the entrance to Nachi Taisha.

The view of the lush green mountains is a stunning backdrop for the vermillion torii and the
lanterns that line the steps. The mountain breezes are no match for the hot sun -- it's an energy draining slog up this long staircase.

And what do you think I found at the top of the steps? Another tall and steep staircase to climb.

Thankfully, it was the last one.

At the top of the mountain is Nachi Taisha. It is the smallest of the three Grand Shrines of the Kumano Kodo and like the Hayatama Taisha is painted in the traditional red orange of the
Shinto shrine. We line up to pay our respects and thank kami sama for allowing us to finish our pilgrimage safely.

Another group photo is in order -- the Amigos just completed the Kumano Kodo!

Otsukare sama deshita!

Off to one side of the shrine is this giant camphor tree that is almost a thousand years old. A stone torii guards the entrance to the base of the tree where stone steps take you to the small shrine within.
Shinto venerates all of nature and certain venerable elements such as rocks, water or trees are seen as power spots where kami or gods are present.
The shimenawa or rope hung with shide that you can see on the torii signifies that this is a sacred place.

Just a few steps away from Nachi Taisha is Seiganto-ji, an important Buddhist temple and the first stop in the Saigoku 33 Temple Pilgrimage devoted to Kannon, goddess of mercy. This temple is

also designated as an Important Cultural Property.

As you prepare to climb the wooden steps, pay homage to a statue of Kannon, located on the left.

Seiganto-ji'shondo or main hall is made totally of wood and is a marvellous piece of temple architecture that dates back to 1590. Can you see the bright red pavilion of Nachi Taisha peeking from the left side of the photo?

The proximity of Shinto shrine to Buddhist temple is a very common all over Japan.

I particularly noticed it here along the Kumano Kodo where shrines to Oji or children of Shinto deities co-exist side by side with statues of jizos or Buddhist bodhisattvas.

The Japanese observe and practice both Shinto and Buddhist rituals and traditions.

I tried as best as I could to capture one of the more iconic scenes of the Kumano Kodo.

As you walk down from the temple and the shrine, you will come to Sanjudo, the orange three-story pagoda of Seiganto-ji with Nachi-no-Taki, Japan's tallest waterfalls in the background.

Even from this distance, I could sense the power of the waters as it cascaded down from the mountain.

Rumor has it that the monks of Seiganto-ji know a secret spot to take the best photo from but since

I did not run into any monk, I was not able to ask. I can only hope my photo somehow captures this magnificent sight.

From the pagoda, it was downhill all the way ... literally. A 10- minute walk over paved roads

took us down to the stop for the bus back to Katsuura. This is right in front of the entrance

to the stairs leading to Nachi no Taki.

On hindsight, it seems rather anticlimactic to end my Kumano Kodo pilgrimage at a bus stop.

In a perfect scenario, I should be bowing to the gods on top of a windswept mountain or if I had

the time, I could have been standing near the crashing waters of Nachi no Taki.

But perhaps is isn't so bad -- after all, I was waiting for a bus ... to take me on to the next journey and on to the next pilgrimage.

Ganbatte!

Lessons learned:

1. The way down is harder than the way up. Don't be daunted by the numerous stairs to climb, take the normal route of Daimonzaka to the Nachi Taisha.

2. The falls should be a gorgeous sight, leave enough time in your visit for the walk down to the falls. I'm sorry we missed doing that.

3. Photos were not allowed inside the Seiganto-ji but don't miss a visit inside to see the beautiful treasures on display.

The Kumano Kodo is one of only two pilgrimage routes designated as a UNESCO
World Heritage site. The other (and more popular) one is the Camino de Santiago in Spain.

Both started around the 10th century and both have had millions of pilgrims walk through its
well trodden paths.
One is Shinto, dedicated to the kami or gods of nature and the other is in honour of St. James
or Santiago, one of Jesus'twelve apostles.

The Kumano Kodo -- tucked away in a remote corner of hidden Japan is perhaps little known to
the pilgrims of the Camino. However, its popularity seems to be slowly growing, we met a number of Europeans and even some Americans along the trails.

The pilgrim who has completed the Camino de Santiago earns the Compostela, a small scroll written in Latin that attests to this fact. The pilgrim who has walked the approved routes of the Kumano Kodo also receives a certificate.

And if you are fortunate to have walked both, you are recognised as a Dual Pilgrim and given a special credential.

This is available from three locations along the route ... from the Tanabe Tourist Center, the Hongu Heritage Centre (shown above) and the Kumano Kodo Kan Center in Takijiri.

When we dropped by on a late summer afternoon, the Heritage Centre was quite devoid of visitors.

There were no long queues waiting to get their credentials, as you would see in the Pilgrims' Office
in Santiago.

Getting the certificate was quick and relatively easy. The Hongu Heritage Center is staffed by volunteers from the community, many of whom are fluent in English.
To qualify for the Dual Pilgrim Certificate, you should bring some proof that you have earned your Compostela from the Camino de Santiago. A picture of your compostela is good enough.
You also have to show your passport as further proof of identification.

As in the Camino, stamps from places passed along the way are collected in a booklet. The completed booklet is needed to show that you have really walked any of the following routes:

a) the Nakahechi Route, from Takijiri to Hongu Taisha;

b) the Nakahechi Route from Hongu Taisha to Nachi Taisha;

c) the Nakahechi Route, from Hoshinmon Oji to Hongu Taisha plus stamps from Hayatama Taisha and Nachi Taisha and

d) the Kohechi route, from Koyasan to Hongu Taisha.

Here are the Amigos holding up our newly minted Dual Pilgrim Certificates. We also walked the Camino de Santiago together.
With us was the Heritage Center officer and our invaluably helpful Mi-Kumano guides Wada san and Chika san.

This is the Certificate of Completion given to Dual Pilgrims. You can get the same certificate in the Pilgrims' Office in Santiago de Compostela if you show proof of having completed the Kumano Kodo.

Once you get your Certificate, you may be asked for permission to include your photo and pilgrimage details on the Dual Pilgrim website.

In addition to the Certificate of Completion, Dual Pilgrims also get a commemorative pin showing

the symbols of both pilgrimages .... the scallop shell of the Camino de Santiago and the Yatagarasu

or 3 legged crow, a Shinto motif and symbol of the Kumano Kodo. Both certificate and pin are given gratis and are lovely ways to remember your experiences on the trails.

P.S

I feel doubly privileged to have walked both the Camino de Santiago and the Kumano Kodo.

Walking through different and sometimes challenging trails, tracing the paths of many who have

gone before, experiencing and giving thanks for the beauty of your surroundings ... these are the

life enhancing gifts that a pilgrimage gives to the pilgrim.

Walking teaches you mindfulness. As you walk, you find your way.

Ultreia et suseia

Ganbatte

Lessons learned:

1. If you want the Dual Pilgrim Certificate, do not forget to fill up the booklet with the necessary stamps and bring a

photo proof of your compostela from the Camino de Santiago.

2. You may get the booklet for stamps from Tanabe, Hongu or Takijiri. It is given for free.

3. Unlike the Camino which requires you to walk a minimum of 100 kilometres to earn a Compostela, there are a number of options for the Kumano Kodo which require less walking. The mandatory requirement is a visit to all 3 Grand Shrines.

The winding highway from Katsuura to Mt Koya passes through mountain roads where the scenery becomes more and more spectacular with every twist and turn. I ooh-ed and aah-ed from my window seat but had no one to share it with since everyone in the van was fast asleep.

Katsuura to Mt Koya is a mere 165 kilometers but if one takes public transportation, it would be a
7 to 9 hour journey -- and one that is totally dependent on catching the right bus or train at very specific times.
Renting a car or in our case, a spacious and comfortable van from the Shirahanko Taxi company was the most convenient way ... it took us just 3 hours to get to Koyasan.

It had been 4 long years since my first visit to Koyasan. Also known as the "Vatican" of Shingon
or Esoteric Buddhism, it was founded 1,200 years ago by Kobo Daishi, a Buddhist monk.
Kobo Daishi is revered all over Japan as a great Buddhist saint and his practical and wise teachings transcend all religions.
Kobo Daishi's "presence" and Koyasan's inherently serene atmosphere are like a healing balm for
my soul.

As in my first visit, we booked a one night stay at a shukubo or temple lodging. We could have chosen from any of the 50 temples that have opened their doors to guests but I decided to go back to Eko-in where Jay and I stayed the first time.
It is one of the oldest temples in Koyasan and one where the guest can experience the various practices of Shingon Buddhism like sutra writing, ajikan meditation, the rishu-zanmai-hoyo or morning sutra chanting, and the goma fire ritual.

As you pass through the gate of Eko-in, you are greeted by this smiling henro or pilgrim. It is the sign that the temple is a shukubo and offers accommodations and meals to guests.

Eko-in's front yard has a small pond, surrounded by a riot of shrubbery.

These giant white peonies are as big as plates. Peony season has passed so these must be the late bloomers.

Two young monks lugged our large suitcases up to our second floor rooms. Our room overlooked
the front yard. A beautiful painting of mountain scenery graces the fusuma, the opaque paper
screen that separates our room from the next.
I just wanted to sit by the window and enjoy the tranquility ... I did not realise how much I had missed being here.

But, the late afternoon sun was beckoning me outdoors. I'm glad I decided to go for a walk or I may not have seen these pretty in pink tulips bobbing their heads in the breeze.

This sacred mountain used to be home to hundreds of temples of the Shingon sect of Buddhism. Today there are a little over a hundred left and half of these are shukubos, opening their ancient gates to visitors and guests.

The setting sun peeps through the masses of cedar and pine trees. A clear stream gurgles by.

I can feel my soul exhaling, I am content.

This temple is hidden at the end of a long tree lined driveway.

Come in and be refreshed, it seems to say.

We wander in and out of various temples. Each has its own distinct character but all are oases of rest for tired and busy visitors seeking respite from life's daily troubles.

Most of the temples along the main road leading to Okunoin, the sacred cemetery of Koyasan are shukubos. One is perfectly free to come in and look around the well maintained gardens.

There are no conbini stores, no McDonalds and fast food restaurants in Mt. Koya.

Instead there are small shops selling traditional sweets and delicacies. I stop to buy some of my favourites. On the left most is roppoyaki, which we know in the Philippines as "hopiang hapon".

I particularly like the bean filled pastry, second from the left, which is encased in a sweet potato dough. The kurumi-mochi rolled in a soy bean powder, reminds me very much of our own espasol, although it is a much lighter version.

Dinner at our shukubo Eko-in is set for 5:30 p.m. We hasten back to the temple so as not to be late

for the meal. Along the way, we pass by this multitude of red torii leading up to a Shinto shrine, again showing the synergistic relationship between Buddhism and the Shinto religion in Japan.

Another "hidden" shukubo, at the end of a tree lined path. Guests are also on their way back perhaps to be on time for dinner.

Dinner is shojin ryori or Buddhist traditional vegetarian cuisine. It is usually brought to your room but since there were five of us and we wanted to eat together, we were put in a private tatami room.

Cooked by the monks themselves, shojin ryori is quite a paradox -- simple flavours yet luxuriously delicious. It is plain fare made from humble everyday ingredients, yet is served in an elegant manner.

We are given two trays each -- dinner consists of sesame tofu, a specialty of Koyasan, vegetable tempura with a seasoned dipping salt, assorted tsukemono or pickles, various stewed root crops and a delicately flavoured miso soup.

In keeping with this unpretentious meal, dessert is a single slice of a sweet orange. My not so secret stash of sweets that I had bought earlier would come in handy for any sugar cravings in the middle of the night.

When we get back to the room, the monks (who also cooked the shojin ryori meal we just enjoyed) have laid out the futons in our room. The weather in Koyasan is always several degrees lower than anywhere else in the region so these quilted blankets will keep us nice and warm.

But it's not yet time to sleep -- we get our sweaters and head down to the courtyard to join the evening tour of Okunoin cemetery. This is the largest cemetery in all of Japan.

Many centuries old, it is where Kobo Daishi sits in "eternal meditation". Set in a forest of cedars and cypress trees, it is also where hundreds of thousands of tombstones can be found. Eerie or scary? Not at all ... walking through the silent tombs is soothing, the stillness is punctuated only by the "clicking" sounds made by the flying squirrels who inhabit the towering cedar trees.

While you can certainly visit the place anytime during the day, Eko-in conducts night tours, the only temple in Koyasan to do so.

Jay and I took this tour on our first visit a few years ago but we were happy to do it again.

This time, we were joined by our friends from the US who were visiting Koyasan for the very first time.

By the time the tour started at 7:15, Okunoin was completely dark save for the stone lamps lighting the path. The walk through the cemetery is a little over two kilometres from the gate to

Kobo Daishi's mausoleum -- the most sacred spot not just in the cemetery but on the entire mountain.

The tour, conducted by one of Eko-in's head monks takes about 45 minutes.

Our monk-guide did not just walk with us through the cemetery but he gave a fascinating lecture about the history of Okunoin, who were some of the more important people buried there and most importantly, he shared highlights of the wisdom of Kobo Daishi. It is a enlightening tour and one that you should not miss.

The stone lanterns along the path have cut-outs of the moon on the sides -- one shows the half moon and the other side, the full moon. Candles were used before but now, thanks to the generosity of one of the many gigantic Japanese corporations supporting Koyasan, each lantern has been fitted with an electric light bulb that casts a soft glow on the stone paths.

The bright lanterns of Eko-in guided our footsteps back to the temple. There were no cars at all along the deserted roads.

Peace and stillness enveloped the mountain. This is what I had come here for ... to refresh my distracted soul in the restful realm that is Koyasan.

Namu Daishi Henjo Kongo.

Lessons learned

1. Renting a car or hiring a taxi is the best and fastest way to get to Koyasan from any point of the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage.

2. The night tour of Okunoin conducted by Eko-in is available to guests staying in other shukubos. Make reservations

to ensure a spot on the tour.

3. All meals served in the shukubos are shojin ryori. If this is not your idea of a filling meal, there are small restaurants in Koyasan serving non vegetarian fare.

4. If you are coming from Kyoto or Osaka, the special limited express train to Koyasan is available from Namba station in Osaka.

Wanting to relax from the (uphill) rigours of the Kumano Kodo and yet not wishing to see our pilgrimage end, I arranged for a post-Kumano visit to Mt. Koya, the holiest mountain of Shingon Buddhism. The mountain is directly connected to the Shinto pilgrimage as it is one of the five routes that pilgrims used to and continue to walk on to this very day.

We woke up very early to get ready for the 6:30 morning sutra chanting service at our shukubo (temple lodging). There was enough time to walk around the grounds of Eko-in and enjoy the early morning quietude.

The giant peonies were in full bloom in the garden.

Masses of pink rhododendrons with their light delicate fragrance grew all around the temple.

In one corner of the yard is an inari shrine -- not at all unusual to find a Shinto shrine in a Buddhist temple or vice versa.

We were the first to enter Eko-in's main hall for the sutra chanting service. The monks do this on a daily basis, chanting the Heart Sutra, among others.
Jay and I had attended this before and it is an extraordinary experience. The rhythmic chanting with the beating of the gong puts me in a meditative state and at that moment, everything else is blocked out.

After the chanting, we are invited to come and offer incense and bow before the Buddha. Almost everyone participates. It is a solemn and moving experience.

The morning service takes about half an hour but I hardly notice the time ... it seems to go by so fast. Afterwards, guests are invited to a small building just outside the gate of Eko-in for the next morning ritual.

This is the goma or the fire ritual that is performed In Eko-in and a few other temples in Koyasan, every single morning. Small wooden plaques or goma-ki with wishes and prayers written on them are burned along with incense as an offering.
As the fire continues to grow and blaze in the the darkened room, it literally brings us out of the
dark and into the light.

The goma ritual ends as the fire slowly dies down to embers. We silently file out and head to our respective rooms where breakfast is waiting. Each one of us gets a tray of shojin ryori or temple vegetarian cuisine and it seems almost ascetic in appearance.
There is a small portion of rice, a disk of boiled tofu mixed with herbs, some simmered greens, pickles and bowl of miso soup. I savour the roasted rice tea that is served instead of coffee.

After breakfast, time to head out to see more of Koyasan.
Since we have friends who are first time visitors, I asked Chieko san, a good friend and an excellent Tours by Locals guide to show us around. This way, our friends can have a better understanding of the historical, cultural and spiritual background of Mt. Koya.

Our first stop is the head temple of Shingon Buddhism, the Kongobu-ji. These lovely stone steps lead to the main gate of the temple grounds.

Upon entering, you will notice this graceful wooden structure, this is the shoro or the bell tower. Notice the intricately carved beams on its upper levels.

This beautiful wooden building is the head temple of the hundreds of Shingon Buddhist temples in Japan and all over the world.
It was originally built when Kobo Daishi established this sect of Buddhism in the ninth century but has been destroyed by fire many times.
The entrance on the left that you see protected by a small wooden fence is reserved for members of the Imperial Family, the chief abbott and other high ranking monks.
The entrance on the right where you see the white wooden sign is where visitors like us are allowed to enter.
Do you see the pails on the small wooden structures on the roof? These are meant to gather rainwater which can be used to help protect the building from fire. But since the temple has burned down so many times, I wonder just how much protection these rain buckets give?

We are free to walk around most of the areas except for the main hall and other spaces which are used only for important ceremonies.
While Kongobu-ji, like all of Koyasan, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, it is also an active and working temple where monks and other people continue to live and work.

Our guide Chieko san pointed out this enormous kitchen with its super sized cooking pots and stoves which she said used to provide meals for as many as 2,000 monks in the olden days.

I sympathise with the poor souls who had to wash all the dishes afterwards.

Outside the temple building is the largest rock and sand garden in all of Japan. Stretching out over an area of 2,400 square meters, it was completed in the 12th century.

The garden is called Banryu-tei and it features 140 massive rocks meant to symbolise two large dragons rising from the sea to guard the temple.

Perhaps you can't visualise it from this photo but as I stood there marvelling at this impressive garden from different angles, I could imagine a head, a tail ... until I could see what the garden designer wanted me to see.

These heavy rocks came all the way from the island of Shikoku where Kobo Daishi was born.
The meticulously raked sand came from Kyoto. I cannot imagine how the gardener who designed this managed to bring all those materials up to Mt. Koya, way before 18 wheeler trucks were invented.

A striking patch of carefully pruned and arranged shrubbery is a refreshing sight amidst the dazzlingly white raked sand.

From the Kongobu-ji, it is a pleasant walk under perennially red Japanese maples to our next stop ... the Danjo Garan temple complex.

If Kongobu-ji is the headquarters of Shingon Buddhism, the Danjo Garan is the heart of the religion as this is where Kobo Daishi initially established the sect in 816.

Together with the Okunoin, the Danjo Garan is considered as a most sacred space in the mountain.

We entered via the side gate and the first imposing structure that we saw was the Toto or
the Eastern Stupa.
This maroon painted wooden pagoda is a reconstruction as the original one burned down in
the 1800s.

Danjo Garan was used by Kobo Daishi as the training centre for his monks. There are many important buildings within the grounds. Today, the Danjo Garan is used for special ceremonies
and to commemorate important occasions.

This beautifully preserved wooden building called the Fudodo was constructed in 1197 and is one of the oldest original structures in Koyasan. I am amazed that it has not been destroyed by fire.

The Fudodo was designed and built by four different artisans so each side is different from the next. Because of this architectural oddity and its ancient history, it is a National Treasure of Japan.

I breathe a silent prayer that it may forever be spared from fire or any disaster.

The blindingly vermillion pagoda is known as the Konpon Daito or the Great Stupa. It is also one

of the most recognised buildings in Koyasan.

For a small fee, you can enter to view the statues and images inside. Unfortunately, photos are not allowed inside so I can't share any with you.

In front of the Great Stupa is the Kondo or the main hall. This has been burnt and rebuilt many times. It is the site for many traditional Buddhist services and is also the largest building in the

Danjo Garan complex.

We wind down our visit to Danjo Garan by the new gate in front of the Kondo.

I do not recall seeing this during my first visit and Chieko san said it had been constructed in the

last 3 years.

It has been a hot and sunny morning and we take a break for lunch. Of course I indulge in an

ice cold glass of nama beer. This is the real pause that refreshes!

We have just a few hours left before we have to take the train down to Kyoto. While we did walk through Okunoin last night, a stroll during daylight allows you to see and appreciate the many interesting things in this largest cemetery in Japan.

Aside from the hundreds of thousands of people buried in the cemetery, Japanese companies also own memorial plots where their founders, officers or even some employees can choose to be buried. Some of the corporate plots give the visitor an idea of what the company's products or services are ... much like this one marked by a statue of a rocket -- perhaps this belongs to a company involved in products for space technology.

Fans of the lacto bacilli drink will definitely recognise whose memorial plot this is.

How about some blended coffee? I do see a very large coffee cup!

This must have been such a beloved family pet. Man's best friend is also his eternal companion.

One of the most popular and visited memorial plots is this one belonging to a pest control company. The memorial is dedicated to the millions of termites and other pests that the company has "exterminated". As Buddhists believe that all life is sacred, the company has put up this mausoleum in their memory.

Even in early afternoon, the shaded paths of Okunoin provide a palpable sense of tranquility. Because the place is so large, you will often find yourself alone, with no one to intrude on your thoughts.

In this graveyard, one cannot feel sad or morbid ... Okunoin is a place where you can walk, reflect on your life and the different paths you take along your journey.

My favourite of Kobo Daishi's teachings states that there is a Buddha within all of us. The monk in Eko-in told me that when I think of Kobo Daishi, he will be there with me.

Dogyo Ninin.

We two, travelling together.

P.S.

I am always happy to see Chieko san, an excellent Tours by Locals guide (and who has since
become a good friend). She has walked with us through many temples and shrines these past years.
Her knowledge and experience were invaluable in helping us better appreciate the treasures of Koyasan.

Lessons Learned

1. The most important areas in Koyasan are the Okunoin, Danjo Garan and Kongobu-ji. Do not miss out on seeing them.
If there is time, there is a very interesting museum you may want to visit.
2. There are two bus lines that crisscross the main streets. Taxis are also available. You may also rent bikes from the tourist centre.
3. At the funicular station that will take you down to the train headed back to Osaka, there is a takyubin or parcel counter that can forward heavy luggage to your next destination ... be it the airport or a hotel. Please note that it takes at least 24 hours for your luggage to be delivered.

Friends know my predilection for beer but few know that whisky is my secret sin.
Both drinks share basic ingredients and are even distilled in a similar fashion.
I can drink any kind of beer but for whisky, I prefer blended whisky which better suits my
proletarian tastes and budgets.
My favourite used to be Johnnie Walker Black (unsophisticated and uncool as that may be) but a
few years ago, I discovered the pleasurable taste of Japanese whisky, specifically Suntory's Hibiki Japanese Harmony.
While I love it a little bit more than old Johnnie, Hibiki costs more than three times as much ... reason enough to drink it sparingly.
On my trips to Kyoto, I noticed that our train would pass by Suntory's Yamazaki Distillery.
A bit of research yielded the information that the whisky distillery was open to the public through regularly conducted plant tours.

It took me many trips back to Kyoto before I finally got around to reserving a spot on the Yamazaki Distillery Plant tour . Reservations are done online and are essential, you cannot just show up.

It's easy to get to the distillery, you can take the JR line from Kyoto station or the Hankyu Express Line from Kawaramachi station.

From Kawaramachi station, it's a 30 minute ride to Oyamazaki, the town nearest to the distillery. Oyamazaki is almost at the centre between Osaka and Kyoto and therefore convenient from either destination.

A large poster greets us as we exit -- don't worry about getting lost, the 15 minute walk to the distillery is pretty much a straight path from the station.

Along the way, we were surprised to see a sign for the Asahi Beer Museum of Art. It would have been a good place to visit but we were afraid we would miss our 11 a.m. reservation for the distillery plant tour.

The museum is a good reason to visit Oyamazaki again on the next trip to Kyoto.

There are a number of temples in the area but most of them are in the mountainside surrounding the town. We did get to pass by and visit the Rikyu Hachiman-gu, a shrine along the way to the distillery.

A plain stone torii stands in front of the hondo or main hall. The shrine was established by the Emperor in 859 but the original buildings have since been destroyed. The shrine has also lost most of its land area due to the development of the town around it and today it stands on a much smaller property.

In the grounds is a statue of this shrine priest who discovered how to make egoma oil from the perilla leaf.

The priest invented this device made of wood and bamboo which could press oil from the leaves. The oil was then used to light lamps. For quite a time, the shrine had an "exclusive" right to sell the egoma oil.

From the shrine, we followed the narrow two lane street lined with houses, small stores and cafes. Oyamazaki seems to be primarily a residential area. Pretty soon, we could see the distillery up ahead framed by mists that partially obscured the mountain behind it, Mt. Ten-no.

To get to the Yamazaki Distillery, you need to cross the wide train tracks. As long as you are not inebriated, you will definitely not get run over by a speeding train!

This large pot distiller is the first thing that greets you as you enter the distillery.

The reception area is conveniently located just by the gate. If you have booked a tour, you pay the (extremely reasonable) 1,000 yen fee here. If you have not booked a tour, you can just visit their museum and cozy up the the excellent tasting bar where you can imbibe the whisky of your choice -- for a fee of course.

Visitors and tour participants enter through the Museum, which is housed in a building that probably dates back to when the distillery was founded, in 1923.

You enter through the left of the stairs where you can watch an audio visual presentation showcasing the history of Yamazaki Distillery and the whisky that it produces.

I did not know that Yamazaki is the oldest distillery in Japan. This is where Japanese malt whisky started and where its story continues today.

This is Shinjiro Torii, founder of Yamazaki Distillery. He started out producing and selling western types of wine to suit Japanese palates but in 1923 he made the bold move to create a malt whisky using the local spring waters found here, in Yamazaki Gorge.

The area around the distillery is mountainous and cool -- Shinjiro Torii thought it was the ideal environment for the creation of fine whisky. Aside from the ingredients, air and water quality are essential in producing top quality malt whisky.

After the walking around the museum, we ended up staring at rows and rows of Suntory's many whisky blends. The display seemed to go on forever and all I could do was just walk through in fascination. Yes, I had died and gone to whisky heaven!

An open "barrel" stands in the middle of the room where you can see the bottles of the best whiskies in the world, not just Suntory's.

Our guided tour was about to start so we headed for the second floor. In the middle is a display showing the entire process of whisky distillation -- from the raw ingredients to the finished product.

The tour is conducted in Nihongo but for the few non Japanese like Jay and myself, we were each given audio guides for english translations of the tour.

The Yamazaki Distillery Tour is the visitor's chance to enter areas that would normally be closed to the public.
The tour takes you through the actual working distillery, it is not just a demonstration or lecture in a small room. We walked through the various areas involved in the distillery's day to day operations.

This room is where the grains are mashed with hot water in this huge vessel called a mash tun.

Mashing extracts the wort which is what goes into fermentation. Yeast is added to the wort which will produce alcohol. These huge wooden barrels are where fermentation takes place.

An employee goes about his daily task, taking no mind of the tour that passes through. He is in the distillation area and these large copper vessels are called pot distillers.

The wash, which is the result of fermentation, goes into these copper distillers for the final process. The shape of these copper vessels are actually essential to adding taste and refinement to the whisky.

After the wash has been distilled, there is another vital process -- ageing. Whiskies are matured in oak barrels for at least three years. Our guide ushers us into the cool dark depths of the Yamazaki warehouse where the ageing takes place.

The cavernous warehouse is dimly lit, it takes my eyes a while to adjust to the gloom. When I do get my bearings, I see rows and rows of barrels stacked on racks -- these are Yamazaki's various whisky blends and single malts, all being aged and matured to perfection.

The barrels are all properly marked -- these pure malt whiskies from 2009 may still be considered "young", after all they are only eight years old.

Our guide mentioned that while all the barrels look alike the wood used is not always the same. Different types of oak are used which affects the taste of the whisky. There is European, American and Japanese oak. Some barrels have been previously used to store wine and again, that would add a different note to the whisky's taste.

Our guide points out the original barrel from the first batch produced in 1923. There is no whisky inside but it does serve as a reminder that Yamazaki is the pioneer and still the leader in the Japanese whisky industry.

The barrels seem to go on endlessly -- row after long row of the finest whiskies all waiting for the right time to be bottled and enjoyed. Larcenous thoughts go through my brain, could I roll one out of the place and how many days would I have to spend in jail if I did so?

From the shadowy interiors of the warehouse, we stepped outside into this sylvan setting -- a bubbling spring, trees, plants, moss and fresh clean mountain air.

This natural environment is why Shinjiro Torii, chose Yamazaki as the place where he would create Japan's first whisky.

Torii san knew that the most important ingredients of a fine whisky are the water, the grain and the yeast.

The natural spring of Yamazaki Gorge is what makes Yamazaki whisky one of the best whiskies in the world.

One does not enjoy the bounty of Nature's goodness without giving thanks. A plain torii adorned with shimenawa marks the entrance to a shrine within Yamazaki's grounds, carefully tended and cared for by the distillery but visited and used by the people in the community.

It is almost the end of the tour and our guide smilingly says that we are about to enjoy the best part of the afternoon. She leads us into a modern hall where we are to sample the various blends produced in Yamazaki. The proof of the distilling is in the drinking!

Everyone in the group is over 21, the legal age for drinking in Japan. We have also signed forms that state that we are not driving back after the tour. The distillery is very careful about the safety of its guests.
Tables for two and four people are neatly arranged and each one of us has a tray with several glasses of different whiskies for us to try.

It's all I can do to just dive in! But first, we have to listen to our guide who schools us on the proper ways of enjoying Suntory whisky.

Each glass contains a shot of a different whisky. The glasses have been carefully covered so that the aroma does not escape. On the leftmost is whisky that has been aged in a white oak barrel, the second glass from the left is whisky that has been aged in a wine cask. The third and fourth contain single malt whiskies but the last glass has a note that says "to be enjoyed the way you like".

I can't wait to start tasting!

The first step to enjoying your fine single malt is to look at the amber colour and appreciate the rich golden hue.

Next, bring the glass closer to your nose and sniff the wonderful aroma that only a fine single malt whisky can deliver.

I enjoyed the three glasses neat -- just as we were instructed. They were all refined, with variations in the tasting notes. I particularly enjoyed the whisky aged in vintage wine casks as it had a hint of fruity and sweet flavours.

For our last glass, we were taught the fine points on how to prepare the quintessential Japanese highball, a cocktail made of whisky and soda water. Yamazaki also bottles a premium soda which is the perfect pair to their fine single malt whiskies.

The highball was refreshing and so easy to drink. I could have sat there and had another one and perhaps another one ....

Jay is a teetotaller as he is allergic to alcohol but even he could not resist a few sips of the excellent whiskies. He enjoyed it just as much as I did.

After the tasting session (where I reluctantly pried myself away from the table) it was time to visit the small but excellent gift shop. You can buy all sorts of whisky paraphernalia and souvenirs and if you wish, take home a bottle or two of Yamazaki's different brands.

I wanted to buy a bottle of Hibiki, Yamazaki's blended whisky and my favourite. However, it only came in the very large size so I ended up with a smaller bottle of single malt whisky. I guess I will have to learn to love drinking single malt.

Thank you to the wonderful folks at Yamazaki Distillery for an interesting and informative tour.

This is one experience well worth doing -- don't miss it the next time you are in Kyoto or Osaka.

You can reserve your slot online but do so weeks in advance as the tours are small and fill up easily.

You can do that on their web page https://www.suntory.com/factory/yamazaki/introduction/

P.S.

Back home, I put my highball skills to the test with my new bottle of Suntory's Hakushu Single Malt. Here's the recipe ... 1 part whisky to 3 parts soda water. Fill up your glass with ice before you pour the whisky and then add the soda water. Stir once and enjoy.

Kanpai!

The flea market at the Kitano Tenmangu shrine in Kyoto is held every 25th of the month, spring thru winter, rain or shine. It's one of my favourite places to shop and I usually try to schedule my trips to include a visit to the market.

On this trip, we opted to go after lunch avoiding the normally thick morning crowd.

While the early shoppers would have snagged good buys, there are so many vendors and a variety

of merchandise that you will not run out of unique and interesting finds. And of course, as it gets nearer to closing time, most of the vendors are willing to give bigger discounts.

The huge stone lanterns lining the path are almost obscured by the many stalls. At the very end, you can see the second torii that stands just before the impressive romon, the wooden two storey gate built in the 16th century.

You will never go hungry at the flea market. There are numerous stalls selling all kinds of food and snacks. Like these giant sweet potato fries that look so crisp and inviting.

The tantalising smells of this yakisoba stall waft through the market practically seizing you by the nose and inviting you to dig in.

Want to eat as you walk? While munching while walking is not really done in Japan, you could probably be forgiven if you could not resist this roasted sweet corn on the cob.

These farmers were selling their homegrown yuzu and were even giving passers by free sips of fresh squeezed juice.

I made a beeline for my favourite stall at the market. Since I can't read Japanese, I like to call him Bacon Man. This guy sells rice wrapped in bacon, roasted with a teriyaki style sauce then slathered with your choice of topping. It's chock full of umami deliciousness not to mention, fat and some cholesterol too.

There are an assortment of stuff -- one man's junk could be your treasure. Those hand sewn bags made of old obi are good buys. Or how about some english style tea cups?

I much prefer the Japanese style ceramics. There are many sellers that have both brand new and previously used wares. I find that the vintage used bowls and cups are more to my liking.

I am always happy to see these pre-loved obi and coats. Some can be had for as low as 500 yen. The more elaborate and luxurious ones can sell for so much more. But Jay reminds me that I have bins full of these at home so I have to regretfully walk away.

This is the intricately carved, beautiful wooden gate, the romon. The Kitano Tenmangu is popular with students who visit to pray for success in their exams and studies so it's not surprising to see young people in their school uniforms at the shrine.

The flea market is so big, with hundreds of vendors, that the stalls spill out on the side streets surrounding the shrine. Don't forget to explore and walk around or you might miss that one thing you were meant to buy.

I thought these wooden black boxes were so interesting, particularly the lacquer one in the foreground.

There are more pre-loved yukatas or casual kimonos which are perfect for summer wear.

Can you believe that these sell for just 500 yen each?

If you thought that 500 yen was a good deal, this stall offers everything you can pack in a big plastic bag for 3,000 yen (or in a small bag for 1,500 yen). And yes, shoppers were stuffing their bags to overflowing. It was an amazing bargain but Jay was making strangling noises behind me so I had to tear myself away.

How about some antique cameras? I am sure they don't work but would make nice souvenirs for a photography buff.

Every time I go to a flea market, there is always an item or two that I like to call "the one/s that got away". This time it was these old wooden lamps, on the top right of this photo.

They were so unique and obviously handmade but so big and quite heavy. They would never have fit in my suitcase or in my carry-on.

It late afternoon when we walked out of the market. Most of the vendors were starting to put their stuff away -- to be kept and stored until the 25th rolled around again.

If you're planning a trip to Kyoto .... try to be here around that time of the month so you can enjoy

the many pleasures and treasures of the Kitano Tenmangu flea market.

P.S

Jay and I didn't walk out empty handed. Our favourite purchases were these light woven hats ... just perfect for walking around sunny, summertime Kyoto!

A warm sunny day may not be the best time to visit a traditional Japanese garden -- it's certainly not going to be a shady walk through the woods. On this trip, I found myself in the Kyoto station area with about an hour to spare before lunch so I decided to visit the Shosei-en Garden.

The garden is about a fifteen minute walk from the station. With Kyoto Tower looming behind me,

I turned off into one of the side streets that would take me to Shosei-en.

The entrance to Shosei-en is through the Nishi-mon or the western gate. The garden is open from

9 in the morning till 4 in the afternoon. While entrance is free, you are subtly invited to make a "donation" -- 500 yen will give you a lovely full coloured booklet of the garden's history.

Shosei-en was built in the 17th century for the Abbot of Higashi Hongan-ji, a major Buddhist temple. Designed by Ishikawa Jozan, it was intended not just as a residence but as a stroll garden as well. It isn't a very big garden, as shown by the map above but it has many of the elements of the traditional Japanese garden.

Since I had barely an hour to spare, I thought I would breeze in and out of the garden.

Take a few photos and leave. But as I was walking in I was stopped dead in my tracks by this small green turtle crossing my path. I almost crushed him if I hadn't looked down at the right moment.

I took it as a sign and decided that perhaps he was sent to tell me to relax, slow down and enjoy

the beauty of Shosei-en.

My first glimpse inside the garden was this serene pond, filled with koi and bordered by two wooden viewing pavilions called Rinchi-tei and Tekisui-ken. Everything is a bright verdant green with just a touch of pink from the flowers blooming on one side.

Can you see the stone lantern partially covered by the trees? There is a waterfall beside it that just completes this lovely scene. I can imagine just how peaceful it must have been to sit on these decks and contemplate all this beauty.

A short walk away is this unusual two story building. There are two wooden staircases on each side, leading up to the second floor. This is the Boka-kaku which was built as a ceremonial gate.

Cherry trees surround it making it a popular sakura viewing spot during spring.

Boka-kaku and the other buildings in Shosei-en were painstakingly reconstructed in the late 19th century as the original structures were destroyed by fire and wars.

The biggest and perhaps the major feature of the garden is this large pond.

Called Ingetsu-chi, it covers more than 20% of the grounds. The booklet given at the entrance states that this is an ideal spot to view the full moon, which on a clear cloudless night is reflected perfectly on the water.

Unfortunately, a couple of tall buildings, electric wires and even a tall crane mar the daytime view.

Because it is summer, lotus pads have proliferated on the pond's surface. At the very end is Sochinkyo, where tea ceremonies were held during the Abbot's day.

As I walk slowly by the pond's edge, I see this exquisite lotus flower. Kobo Daishi's teaching

comes to mind -- even in the mud, beauty can bloom.

Taking the cue from my friend, the turtle, I do walk quietly and slowly through Shosei-en, seeking out shaded cool paths that offer some relief from the bright noonday sun. I cross a small stone bridge that connects two areas in the garden -- the west and north side.

In this lush sylvan setting, I almost forget that I am in the middle of Kyoto. There is no one else around, there are no busloads of tourists -- I have Shosei-en all to myself on this splendid summer day.

On the north side of the garden is Kaitoro, a covered wooden bridge that spans part of Ingetsu-chi pond.

I tread gingerly and carefully on the bridge's wooden boards. At the very end are stone steps leading to Shukuen-tei, another small tea ceremony house. I sit for quite a time on the steps of this bridge, my mind a blank, thinking of nothing but just being completely present in this moment.

The sun is high above the sky and I head back towards the exit -- back to the bustle and crowds of Kyoto. I felt almost reluctant to take the next steps that would lead me out of the garden.

My friend the turtle was cooling off in the shade -- I knew he had waited for me. I whispered a quick thank you for the gift that he had just given me... a tranquil solitary hour, all by myself in Shosei-en.

N.B Details about Shosei-en were taken from the booklet that you are given when you make a 500 yen donation.

Early Monday morning is when I make the long trek from my home in Paranaque to the Ateneo de Manila in Katipunan, almost 20 kilometres away. The once a week class that I teach does not start till 9 a.m but I leave very early so as to beat the rush hour traffic.

I leave the house without taking breakfast and am always on the lookout for a place along the way that's open and that serves good coffee.

Starbucks used to be my usual stopover until I discovered Conti's in Blue Ridge.

Open at 7 a.m., it serves a variety of breakfast choices ... and coffee comes with free refills.

You can't get a better deal than that.

Since I've made it my weekly "almusalan"I have tried almost all their breakfast items .... and then some.

I can never pass up longganisa and Conti's Mom's Garlic Longganisa served with fried rice and egg are bite sized but hearty morsels of deliciousness. If you have aswang (vampire) blood, don't be put off by the name -- the garlic is not so overpowering but balances well with the other spices. The ubud atsara served on the side is an ideal counterpoint.

I come from Malabon where the best tinapang bangus comes from. Conti's serves a very good version (I am sure it's from my hometown!), an entire tinapa, deboned and perfectly fried. The accompanying tomato and egg salad is a delicious alternative to the usual fried egg.

If you do not like smoked fish, you can opt for the boneless daing na bangus. It's a sizeable piece so you won't miss the fact that you are not eating the entire fish.

Before I ordered the beef tapa, I asked the waiter if it was sweet and he assured me that it was not. The beef is shredded and fried till almost crisp. I like the soy-vinegar-pepper mix that it must have been marinated in.

One Monday, I tried the American breakfast -- bacon, two eggs, homemade mango jam and slices of their toasted brioche bread. I regret not telling the kitchen that I like my bacon soft but if you like your bacon well done then you should order this.

How about Conti's version of Eggs Benedict? These are two poached eggs on top of creamed spinach on a buttered and toasted brioche slice. A creamy cheesy sauce completes the dish.

This is more of a brunch item, I guess. I found it a bit too rich for an early morning meal.

When you visit Conti's at 7 a.m, you can only order the breakfast and sandwich items on the menu. I did have their very filling Clubhouse sandwich where the bread was lightly buttered, dipped in egg then fried. I couldn't finish this and had the rest of it for lunch making it a very economical choice -- two meals for the price of one!

By the way, the shoestring potatoes were crisp, hand cut and freshly fried -- better than any canned variety!

Since I was showing up every Monday like clockwork, the early morning crew knew me well enough. The waitstaff would always have welcoming smiles when I walked through the door.

One morning, the waiter asked me to try their new sandwich offering ... barbecued chicken with bacon on brioche bread.

Conti's sandwiches are better for bigger appetites, I could only finish half.

It's back to rice meals for me! The pork tocino is thankfully not a bright red or pink. The pork slices were fork tender and the sweetish glaze reminded me of teriyaki sauce.

Yes dear reader, this post is an (almost) complete list of Conti's breakfast menu. The only dish I have not ordered is their Bangus Belly Adobo simply because I do not eat bangus belly.

The photo above shows Conti's Batangas pork adobo -- chunks of meltingly good pork belly cooked with atsuete, garlic and vinegar. My father used to make this but he called it adobong pula.

Conti's version is almost as good as his.

For a sweet ending to breakfast, you can order any of Conti's signature cakes. My particular favourite is the mango torte -- light, not too sweet and fragrant with the scent of ripe golden mangoes.

It puts a smile on my face and I'm ready to face Monday and the week ahead!

Two years ago, a report published in the US stated that cholesterol was no longer a major cause for concern and was being removed from the list of nutrients that one should steer clear of. This of course got much publicity and was received gleefully by carnivores worldwide.

Keeping this in mind, I have since been indulging my "savoury" tooth. Hey, if other people have a sweet tooth and a propensity for desserts, I have a predilection for salty, savoury, umami rich food -- usually these are also cholesterol-lific.

On a recent visit to Lucena City, I decided that my cholesterol levels were at an alarmingly low level so to get a fresh infusion, dinner at Bubbles Crispy Pata was just what my bloodstream needed.

Set in an authentic antique heritage house, Bubbles Crispy Pata (appropriately named as it gives me visions of tiny bubbles of cholesterol merrily effervescing through my veins ) is a favourite dining place for locals.

Thankfully, the house's original interiors have been left pretty much unchanged. The dining area is

in what was probably the house's massive living room.

Simple wooden chairs and tables are just right for that homey atmosphere. The open windows bring in a cooling breeze and also sadly, some of the fumes from the jeeps that ply the busy street.

We start off our cholesterol (re)charge with Bubbles'sizzling sisig. The chunks of pork cheeks, ears and snout are slightly bigger than most and have that chewy cartilaginous texture ... left a little bit longer on the hot plate, the bits and pieces on the bottom take on an appetising crunchy char.

A raw golden yellow yolk tops this popular Pinoy pulutan (food or snacks taken with alcohol).

Spicy chili has been thoughtfully served on the side, should you wish your sisig to pack on more heat.

I could have done without much of the mayonnaise squeezed on top as it added a slightly sweet tinge.

We had barely made a dent on the sisig before Bubbles' piece de resistance was brought out to the table.

The pork leg is fried so well yet does not leave a greasy or oily mouthfeel. I am guessing it is

pre-boiled then flash fried for maximum crispness as each order comes in.

The skin has a crackling crunch, it's almost like eating chicharon (pork rinds). The meat of the

pork leg can be tough and quite chewy but this crispy pata is tender, succulent and flavourful.

The meat almost slides off the bone so that you literally have just a small pile of clean bones at the end of the meal.

This is, hooves down, the best crispy pata I have ever had. And from someone who has a blog called porkintheroad, you can rightfully assume that I have had quite a few.

Bubbles is right across the Provincial Capitol and Perez Park so it's hard to miss.

We came in for an early dinner and left just as the evening crowd was starting to come in.

The restaurant gets full at peak dining hours most specially on week-ends and holidays so it would

be better to make a reservation.

Thank you Bubbles for my RDA (required daily allowance) of cholesterol.

We will definitely be back for a replenishment soon!

On foot and on the road in hidden Japan - the Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage

Getting to Tanabe City -- Jump off point for the Kumano Kodo's Nakahechi Route

Kumano Kodo Day 1 Takijiri to Takahara : Upwards (and some downwards) with the Ki no ne

Kumano Kodo Day 1 : A luxurious interlude at Kiri-no-Sato Takahara Lodge

Kumano Kodo Day 2 Takahara to Chikatsuyu : Finding my inner "Yama Girl" in the mountain passes

Kumano Kodo Day 2 : Minshuku Nakano -- small town Japanese hospitality at its best

Kumano Kodo Day 3 Hosshinmon-Oji to Hongu Taisha : Where I find medical jizos and the path to enlightenment

Kumano Kodo Day 3 Yunomine Onsen : Where I have a hot and steamy time in centuries-old, World Heritage site Tsuboyu Onsen

Kumano Kodo Day 4 : I feel like royalty as I sail down the Kumanogawa on my way to the Hayatama Taisha

Kumano Kodo Day 4 Happy eating in Shingu City : Masaya Restaurant and Nakakoriten

Kumano Kodo Day 4 : An evening in Katsuura and Minshuku Wakatake

Kumano Kodo Day 5 Katsuura to Nachi Taisha : Climbing the stairs to the end of my pilgrimage

Postscript : Our Dual Pilgrim Certificate of the Kumano Kodo and the Camino de Santiago

Koyasan, my soul's quiet place : Part 1 Revisiting Ekoin and the Okunoin Night tour

Koyasan, my soul's quiet place : Part 2 A walk around the sacred mountain

I died and went to Whisky Heaven : The Yamazaki Distillery Tour

A Summer afternoon at Kyoto's Kitano Tenmangu Flea Market

A solo saunter through Shosei-en Garden, Kyoto

If it's Monday, it must be Conti's at Blue Ridge

Getting my RDA of Cholesterol at Bubbles Crispy Pata in Lucena