Rowilda's Handloom Weaving -- keeping the colourful vibrant art of inabel alive

December 16, 2016, 5:07 am

≫ Next: The enduring heritage of Vigan's burnay pottery

≪ Previous: I'd Queue for You -- Sinanglaw at 1st Sinanglaoan, Vigan City

Shall I tell you a dark little secret of mine? I am a hoarder. When I like something, I tend to go out and buy indecent quantities of it.
Now there are two things I specifically can't stop buying -- books (both real and virtual) and that Ilocano handwoven cloth called inabel.

If you come to my house, you will see my books all over the place -- on shelves, tables, on chairs and on benches. But you won't see my hoard of inabel -- blankets, linens, bedcovers, shawls, even fabric for dresses that may never be made. I keep them stashed inside large plastic bins hidden under the beds.

This inabel addiction is the result of years and years of annual road trips to Ilocos. On this last trip,
I decided that to truly worship at the feet of inabel, I needed to go and take a look at how this centuries old cloth is woven and made.
My suki in Vigan City, Mang Dante at Rowilda's along Crisologo Street very kindly invited me to
go and visit their looms at their factory in Camangaan, a barangay about 10 minutes away from the centre of town. Jay and I found a tricycle that took us there.

Barangay Camangaan must be the centre of inabel weaving in Vigan as we passed a few other places before we finally found Rowilda's. We were met by a kind and gracious lady, Manang Vangie who very gladly took us on a tour of their factory.

Rowilda's looms are on the ground floor of the owner's house. Crates and sacks of thread are all over the place. The process of weaving starts in this corner where you see wooden rods hanging from the ceiling. Manang Vangie explained how different coloured threads are hung from these rods then looped together in colour patterns for the weavers to use.

From the rods, these brightly colored skeins of thread are created. The colour pattern will make simple but attractive designs used mostly in linens like napkins and table runners.

Inabel is purely handwoven. The looms are operated using foot pedals that the weaver pushes on to weave the fabric. It's a time consuming process -- Manang Vangie said that an expert and experienced weaver can finish from 5 to 10 meters a day using a simple design.
More complicated and traditional patterns take much longer and sometimes a whole day's work will yield just a few meters.

Perhaps it was merienda time when we visited because most of the weavers were not at their looms. However we did see the different projects that they were working on.

Manang Vangie said they were rushing orders for a trade fair that would be held in Manila. Quite a number of finished table runners were just waiting to be wrapped. Do you see that big loom in the background? That is used to weave wide and large pieces like blankets and bedcovers.

I asked Manang Vangie about the future of the inabel industry. She pointed out that nowadays

young people are no longer interested in learning to weave inabel -- finding the process too tedious and time consuming. I suppose everyone wants to work in the big city instead.

Later on, my suki Mang Dante would also mention that he believed that technology like phones, tablets and computers have contributed to the decline in young people taking up weaving. Who wants to sit at a loom the whole day when you can be playing on your PS4?

It was an educational and entertaining visit to Rowilda's factory.
Here's a photo of his brother, Mang Dominic Panela, owner of Rowilda's along with his wife
and Manang Vangie. Thank you for showing me the art of inabel weaving!

P.S

This lovely painting of a weaver at her loom was hanging in a corner at Rowilda's .

Mang Dante and Mang Dominic both mentioned that it was their mother who taught them how

to weave.

She has been weaving inabel all her life and would still be doing it now at 92, if not for a fall a

few months ago that has now kept her at home.

I wonder if she is the woman in the painting -- weaving and painstakingly creating her inabel masterpieces.

↧

The enduring heritage of Vigan's burnay pottery

December 29, 2016, 5:21 am

≫ Next: 2016 -- My year in Food and Travel, Reunions and Farewells

≪ Previous: Rowilda's Handloom Weaving -- keeping the colourful vibrant art of inabel alive

After a quick "immersion" into how inabel, the traditional ilocano cloth is woven, it was time to explore yet another part of Vigan's ancestral traditions -- the centuries old craft of making burnay pottery.

First things first -- I asked the helpful hotel staff to hire a calesa that would take me to the city's

few remaining camarin or paburnayan. Within a few minutes my chariot, driven by a smiling

Mang Adolfo was clip clopping down the street.

We headed towards Calle Gomez where most of the pagburnayan are. There are two large factories, just a few meters away from each other -- Ruby's and RG Pottery.

There were too many tourists crowded around Ruby's souvenir stalls so I left and headed off towards the quieter place across the street.

RG Pottery has an expansive yard shaded by large trees. No one seemed to be around so I walked towards the back where the kilns and pottery wheels are.

When you visit the pagburnayan, you are invited and encouraged to try your hand at the pottery

wheel. Guided by the potter, you are given a small lump of clay so that you can make a small burnay jar.

Of course the lump of clay ends out looking exactly like that -- a small lump masquerading as a pot or jar. It certainly makes you realise that pottery making is no easy task.

Two people are needed to run the rather large stone wheel -- one to spin it continually with

his foot and the other to form the clay into a work of art.

I wandered around the neat and clean camarin. Jars stood neatly on one end, these have gone

through the huge kilns and are being cooled down.

There are more jars stacked by the walls. Burnay pottery are unglazed and are characterised by their dark colour. The colour comes from the clay that is used which can only be found in Vigan.

Burnay jars are much heavier than other types of clay jars and are also very durable. Notice how they are piled up one on top of the other without worry of breakage.

The tradition of burnay dates back to pre-Spanish times. Jars were used as containers for water,

salt, bagoong (fermented fish sauce) and even basi (a native wine). Today, RG Pottery sells

burnay water containers that come fitted with a spigot -- during our lola's times, you would probably scoop out the water using a small dipper.

RG Pottery has a store right outside the factory. There are all kinds of jars in various shapes and sizes. I was definitely going to buy at least one as a souvenir of my visit to the pagburnayan.

The owner of RG Pottery himself came out to attend to me. This is Mang Aster who told me that

this pagburnayan was started by his great grandfather. He was proud of his role in helping sustain

this important part of Vigan's cultural heritage.

Here are the two burnay jars that I bought from RG Pottery. Heeding Mang Aster's advice,

I bought a salt container and a pretty decorative jar that would look good in the garden.

P.S.

My burnay salt jar has been put to work in the kitchen. Mang Aster promised me that the burnay would protect the salt from any moisture. I use a platito to cover the top, just as lola probably did!

↧

2016 -- My year in Food and Travel, Reunions and Farewells

January 9, 2017, 8:54 pm

≫ Next: Our Fukuoka Christmas 1 - A Marche de Noel, Hakata Style

≪ Previous: The enduring heritage of Vigan's burnay pottery

It's more than a week into the New Year and I have yet to summon the energy to get off my ever expanding fanny and sit at the computer and write my year end "report". The holidays have a habit
of lulling you into alternating between sleeping, eating and thinking about sleeping and eating.

But enough of the procrastination -- this dear reader, is how my 2016 went.

News and social media have proclaimed that 2016 was dreadful -- an annus horribilis if you will.
My own year was certainly not an exception, with some painful transitions and losses. But it was also a year of revelations and reunions and yes more food and a bit of travel. So here goes ...

January

Weddings are happy occasions and to start 2016 off with the wedding of a favourite niece and goddaughter augured well for the rest of the year. It was also my first time to visit the pretty and picturesque San Antonio de Padua church hidden in a corner of Silang, Cavite.

Dinner with college batch mates from 40+ years (and 40 pounds) ago was unexpected and delightful. 2016 was also our Ruby Anniversary, marking 40 years of our college graduation from the Ateneode Manila in 1976. This dinner would be the first of a number of other mini reunions.

February

Last year I discovered the quiet, calming and reflective benefits of qi gong. I was fortunate that
just a few months into the practice, I was able to attend a workshop with the founder of
Sheng Zhen Qi Gong himself, Master Li Jun Feng.

After the four day workshop, Master Li took time out to join us at merienda at Milky Way. He is truly a kind and approachable man -- embodying what he teaches which is the philosophy of unconditional love via the practice of Qi Gong.

March

I had never been to the very famous Palaisdaan Restaurant in Lucban and it took a visit from balikbayan friend and Amigo Ross to give me a chance to discover the delights of fresh tilapia cooked Quezon style plus the novelty of eating lunch on a floating raft.

Tilapia aside, the real palate pleaser was the sticky and sweet pilipit, made with grated kalabasa

(squash) and covered in an addictive coco jam sauce.

On one of our trips to Lucena, we finally made a stop at Majayjay, to see the centuries old

St. Gregory the Great Parish Church. Dating back to the 1600s, this is one of best preserved
examples of Spanish churches in the country.

Do not miss going inside the church -- there is a very unique wooden pulpit that dominates the interiors, not to mention a balcony that goes all around the church's stone walls.

Holy Week is one of the two occasions when I make time to go visit my cousins in Orani, Bataan.

Despite it being Good Friday, fasting is never on the agenda.

However, we do make it a point to abstain from meat. My traveling paellera and I were able to
whip up this seafood paella for lunch -- with the freshest suahe (shrimp) and pusit (squid) bought from the Orani palengke (public market) just that morning.

After Easter, time for another mini reunion with fellow Ateneans to ostensibly plot out the celebrations for our Ruby Jubilarian homecoming. However, I think we spent more time chatting, laughing and catching up then making any real plans!

April

April did not start well at all. Our yellow lab Travis, surely the gentlest and most loving dog ever, had been diagnosed with bladder cancer and while we did all that we could, we had to say goodbye.

I know he will be waiting for me at the Rainbow bridge, along with his father Rebus and all the other pets that we have loved and have loved us in return.

The bright blue waters off Coron in Palawan somehow distracted me from the blue feelings over losing Travis. Together with the Amigos, we celebrated summer with a long week-end in Coron,
my very first time to travel to this awesome part of the Philippines.

My favourite part of the trip was discovering the achingly beautiful island of Malcapuya, a two
hour boat ride away from the main island of Busuanga. Sadly this piece of paradise has been
sold to private investors who plan to build a luxury resort -- why can we not keep our natural treasures accessible for all to enjoy?

Back in the city, the end of April was a good time to gather batch mates and classmates from the Ateneo de Manila for a lunch to commemorate our mentor and former department chairman's 85th birthday. Fr. Alberto V. Ampil, SJ -- still pixie-ish, still working, still possessed of good cheer and humour -- hopefully enjoyed seeing us, his still boisterous, still rowdy ex-charges/wards/proteges.

Fr. Bert's lunch was held at Alab in UP Town Center, a stone's throw away from the Ateneo.
My food discovery of the day was the Penuneng -- dinuguan or dinardaraan as the Ilocanos call
it, encased in sausage stuffing. The Ilocano version of morcilla or blood sausage.

To cool down from the blistering April heat, a long time foodie friend and I hied off to the Dessert Kitchen where I thought that, as befits its name, there would be lots of cakes, cookies and all sorts of sweets on offer.

However, the Dessert Kitchen specialises in just cold concoctions -- ice creams, parfaits, shaved ice treats, cold puddings and flans -- a tall, slim sundae was good to share between two not-so sweet toothed friends.

May

May is Pahiyas time in Quezon, most popularly in Lucban. It's also the worst time to visit, if you hate crowds and traffic. I visited a few days after and while 99% of the decorations had been taken down, one house was just in the process of cleaning up so I did get my own little Pahiyas moment.

My favourite quiet corner of Lucban is Cafe San Luis, set up in the backyard of an ancestral bahay na bato (traditional stone house). They make a delightful margarita, most probably using the local liquor, lambanog. A personal sized cheese pizza with the native longganisa makes this merienda a truly Lucbanin treat!

I cannot leave Lucban without buying the local hats and fans -- in vivid summer colours.

They make good pasalubong for the Amigos who waste no time in modelling them for an impromptu fashion shoot.

College best buddy Po came for a visit from Toronto and it was yet another occasion for a mini

reunion at Victorino's in Quezon City one of the few places outside Ilocos where one can enjoy genuine Ilocano cuisine.

Aside from the Ilocano food, another draw is the "Desserterie"of Heny Sison, conveniently housed within the restaurant. The lemon torte is light with the right balance of tart and sweet flavours.
The ilocano mamon or torta was dense, buttery and melted in my mouth -- it was my amazing food surprise of the day.

June

There is a first time for everything. Cebu Pacific offered tickets to Fukuoka at a price no one could refuse. It was my first time to fly on this low cost carrier and I was pleasantly surprised! And yes, the airport is really called"FUK".

Fukuoka was an eye opener. As Kyushu's biggest city, it is a good gateway to other parts of the island. We enjoyed the serene temples at nearby Dazaifu.

The iris garden at Tenmangu Shrine reminded us of Monet's paintings.

From Fukuoka, Nagasaki was just a two hour train ride away!

We got to ride the iconic vintage trams of Nagasaki, the easiest way to go around the city.

I never in my wildest castela dreams imagined that I would one day be able to visit the place where my favourite honey cake came from. Fukusaya Castela boasts of a heritage that dates back to the 1600s and it is my favourite omiyage from Japan. It was a treat to visit their oldest shop in Nagasaki.

Shippoku ryori is a Nagasaki tradition and while I may not have tried a full course, this mini version at Yohira was a delicious introduction.

June is the season for my favourite flowers -- hydrangeas. The garden at Hakozaki Shrine had thousands of these beautiful blooms in all colours, shapes, sizes and varieties.

Thanks to local tour company Fukuoka Walks, Jay and I were able to try our hand at cooking a few Japanese dishes, right inside the home kitchen of our Japanese cooking teacher Atsuko san.

July

July ushered in a reunion with favourite cousin Adeling and her whole family. Badenhaus in Pansol is our preferred picnic place. The large private pool fed with warm spring waters, is soothing and relaxing.

And because Adeling was around, we had more than enough food to feed a whole barangay!

My paella seemed almost like an afterthought.

We enjoyed more family time in July with a long week-end at Highlands. A view of Taal Lake is the best thing to wake up to after a deep and relaxing sleep.

August

Thanks to good friend Tsirol, I met Clang Garcia who runs food and culture tours. Her outsized

air-conditioned jeepney took us around nearby Cavite for a taste of both history and local delights.

Various provinces have their own version of quesong puti (white cheese from carabao milk).
Cavite's version is called quesillo and is milder and creamier than its Bulacan or Laguna cousin.

Paired with hot pandesal, it is typical Caviteño breakfast fare.

I do believe that the best ensaymada I have ever tried is the one I had at Baloys in Cavite City.

It was soft, dense and slightly chewy -- the way I believe authentic ensaymada should be.

Here is our photo with chef, master baker and proprietor, Mr. Tony Baloy.

While the food was outstanding, for me, the highlight of our Food Holidays' Cavite Tour
was the visit to the Museo ng Paglilitis ni Andres Bonifacio in Maragondon. It is a moving
and impressive tribute to Gat Andres and will correct any misinformation or historical inaccuracies
you may have learned about Bonifacio's role in the revolution.

The Caviteños are the proud inventors of Pansit Choco or pancit cooked with squid ink that turns the thin noodles into a deep dark delicious black. Garnished with slivers of green kamias, it was my last bite of Cavite on this entertaining, educational and yes -- extremely stomach-filling tour.

August is National History Month so after that edifying Cavite Tour, I followed it up with a visit
to the San Agustin Museum with good friend, the Kastila.

While the museum is the country's prime source of colonial ecclesiastical art, the 16th century church cloisters where the collection is housed is in itself a true architectural masterpiece.

The Museum has been lovingly restored and refurbished in the last three years. Donations from

local collectors have also significantly boosted and added to the richness of the Museum's collection.
It is not as well promoted as it should be which is a shame as more Filipinos should really go and see it.

September

To promote local travel and get back to local culinary traditions is a most worthwhile advocacy.

CHOPs (Culinary Historians of the Philippines) tries to do just that. They conduct tours around
the different provinces, blending history, culture and food as seamlessly as they can.

Jay, lawyer friend Trisha and I joined their Lipa Tour aptly called "Lasa at Pananampalataya sa Lipa".

The big surprise awaiting tour participants was the presence of Chef Myrna Segismundo -- one

of the country's most respected and beloved culinary personalities who also just happens to be a

proud Batangueña.

Chef Myrna demonstrated her family's recipe for Batangas style Adobo which we were all able to enjoy during lunch.

From adobo to kapeng Barako -- another Batangas original. The tour brought us to Cafe de Lipa, exporter of Batangas grown coffee to all parts of the globe. The owners themselves treated to a presentation on coffee, the various beans that make a cup and how to best enjoy the local brew.

From Cafe de Lipa, it was a short drive to the San Sebastian Cathedral. My mother used to work in Lipa in the 1980s and lived there for many years. I was happy to once again visit the church -- the interiors seemed even grander than before.

Every time I pass through Batangas, I would always see the ubiquitous sign for "Lomi".

On this tour I finally got to taste it. Lipa's lomi was thick, rich and loaded with quekiam (chinese sausage) and lechon kawali (fried pork belly). It was a lomi-luscious way to end this Lipa tour.

One of the perks of being retired is that you can finally up and go to places you had always wanted to see but never had the time to. In September, I visited Pinto Museum and Art Gallery in Antipolo with Raki, a long time friend and kindred spirit.

Museum cafes are usually tasteful and complementary to the overall art experience. Pinto's

in-house coffee shop was no exception. If only the traffic to Antipolo was not so bad, I would

be a regular at Cafe Tan-aw, notable for its delicious thin crust pizzas using local ingredients like quesong puti and longganisa and even bagnet.

October

I was back in Antipolo in October but this time at the Crescent Moon Cafe. I wasn't there to eat lunch though but to take a basic lesson in craft beer making.

Master Brewer James of Santiago Brewery and Malt House was a passionate and generous teacher,

sharing with us the how-to's of craft beer brewing.

Patience and more patience, James counselled us. Home beer brewing is not that difficult but takes time. I hope that Jay and I can brew our own beers sometime in the not so distant future.

October brought sadness to us. Our last remaining labrador passed away. I hoped that we could spend a year or two more with him but it was not to be. Eternally a puppy at heart, Nero was always the rambunctious, mischievous and naughty one, as compared to his placid and peaceful twin, Travis. He missed his 13th birthday by just a few weeks and even as I write this, I miss him dearly.

I had been going to Lucena frequently this 2016 -- at least once a month. Lucena is busy with tricycles and jeeps spewing odorous fumes but very early in the morning, the streets are almost deserted and it is the best time of the day to take a walk. My stroll ultimately leads me to Gemini,

a local bakery that still turns out traditional, old time breads and pastries.

Gemini'sescaparate is full of breads that I grew up eating -- kababayan, pianono, kalihim,

monay, bonete, pan de coco, spanish bread ... I always end up buying more that I can eat.

Jay's favourite is Gemini's ensaymada -- made the old fashioned way. It's soft with a thin crust that yields delightfully when you tear off a bite. Topped with margarine and dusted with sugar, it's ensaymada as I remember it to be. At five pesos each, you cannot have a better or cheaper breakfast!

November

Because I had been going to Lucena regularly this year, I was able to cook meals for my 95 year old mother-in-law. She always seemed to enjoy whatever it was that I would dish up but I remember she had a special smile when I served her my paella. In November, my mother in law left us and I am somehow comforted by the thought that perhaps in my own small way, my cooking had made her happy.

December

This December, I marked a special milestone by turning 60. It's trite but true, time does fly.

To celebrate, I had a reunion with these girls who have been my friends for more than 40 years.
We drove to Highlands -- and enjoyed hours of eating, reminiscing and then eating some more.

I decided to go away for the week-end of my birthday. First up was to attend morning mass at

Our Lady of Manaoag in Pangasinan.

After mass, our main destination was the UNESCO World Heritage site of Vigan. The old world charm and atmosphere would be most appropriate for someone who has finally realised she has officially turned "old".

Vigan by night is magical -- the streetlights transform the cobblestone street into a scene straight out of the 1800s. I could almost see the night watchman or sereno doing his rounds.

Because it was nearing the Christmas season, the fountain at the plaza had been all decked out with a light and sound show. Who needs fireworks when you have dancing water and lights?

Apres-show, time for a drink and a bite to eat. Dinakdakan goes particularly well with a margarita.

After that very pleasant Vigan birthday getaway, it was reunion time with a college classmate who

we had not seen since graduation -- yes, 40 years ago! To welcome Lulu back, Ditas and I took her on the inimitable Binondo Wok tour. Catching up over dim sum and noodles was a yummy way to

roll back the years.

We all raved about and enjoyed this salted egg custard bun. Slightly salty, slightly sweet, soft and creamy. I think it's the best addition to the everything-with-salted-egg food fad. Long may it exist!

I don't know how I managed to squeeze in three days for my annual silent retreat but I'm glad I did.

My very large corner room at the Sacred Heart Novitiate had a private balcony where I could sit

and look out on this very peaceful setting. As in last year, I was sad to leave this sanctuary after three days.

Time for the annual family Christmas trip! This year, we flew to Fukuoka -- Jay and I had been so impressed by our first visit in June, we knew everyone else would enjoy it too.

We did a day tour to Nagasaki once again, this time visiting places we missed seeing last June.

I'm glad I visited the Shrine for the 26 Martyrs where our very own San Lorenzo Ruiz is honoured

by a statue in the garden.

I had really wanted to see the Megane or Spectacles Bridge -- Japan's oldest stone bridge. I finally got it done on this trip. Nagasaki has several stone bridges but this must be the most photographed

of them all.

Our excellent Tours by Locals guide Miyuki san brought us to her own favourite lunch place. Primrose may be a very proper english word but the menu serves up a local specialty.

This is a plate of toruku rice or turkish rice invented in Nagasaki that marries traditional and foreign tastes on a plate. You have to taste it to believe how surprisingly good it is.

Meandering along Temple Walk in Nagasaki, I met this extremely fat and friendly temple cat and almost spirited it away in my duffle bag.

A couple of days after our Nagasaki visit, we hopped on a train for Kumamoto to see the famous castle. It had been extensively damaged during last year's earthquake and for a while, I was debating whether to go or not. I am glad we did because Kumamoto-jo despite the destruction is a spectacular sight. I can only pray that each and every fallen stone and board is restored in its proper place.

Before we left Kumamoto, we had to have the local specialty -- horse meat. A restaurant near the castle offered a lunch set of noodles with chunks of soft horse meat, bits of corn, carrots and cabbage in a slightly thick gravy. Oishii desu yo!

It definitely went well with a tall glass of Suntory beer! Kampai!

And now, to end this post on a positive and cheerful note -- life has been extremely good to me and my family.

We lived in "interesting times" in 2016, a year that brought challenges and changes and

2017 may bring more even more difficulties and uncertainties.

But let's welcome it with a wide smile and fervent hopes that the new year would bring everyone good health, happiness and more amazing discoveries and journeys.

Eat, live and travel on!

↧

Our Fukuoka Christmas 1 - A Marche de Noel, Hakata Style

January 10, 2017, 1:28 am

≫ Next: Our Fukuoka Christmas 2 - Ippudo Ramen, Hakata born and bred

≪ Previous: 2016 -- My year in Food and Travel, Reunions and Farewells

I have always loved the marche de noel or Christmas markets in Europe. During the yuletide season, you can find them in various cities -- festive booths sell crafts, pastries, and of course food and wine from different regions. They're delightful places where you can really feel the magic of a European Christmas. My favourite is the Strasbourg Christmas Market, widely acclaimed as the oldest and most popular of them all.

I did not know until I read about it that Hakata Station in Fukuoka has held a Christmas Market annually for the past four years. So of course it was our very first destination when we arrived in Fukuoka. The station was a fifteen minute walk from the apartment and we arrived just as the lights were being turned on.

The Japanese are known for their technical wizardry and this is evident in the illuminations that each city puts up during the holidays. Dazzling and sophisticated -- these are amazing displays that

draw thousands of crowds.

The brilliant blue and white illumination in Hakata Station turned the Christmas Market into a glorious winter forest. It was beautiful and so unique.

Perhaps because it was a Sunday evening, the market was so crowded. You could barely get past the people to go near the various booths -- selling European specialties like charcuterie, cheese, mulled wine and of course European beer.

Traditional European houses of different kinds, enough to build your own miniature village, were the bestsellers in the crafts section of the market.

Even if we wanted to sit down and have dinner at the Christmas Market, there was not a single empty table. A band was playing so people were sitting around, enjoying the music and the cool, mild winter weather.

We smelled before we saw this booth selling sausages -- there was a queue at this popular kiosk.

I had a mug of the hot wine -- infused with spices and harkening back memories of

the mulled wine from the marche de noel by the Notre Dame. That was in a plastic cup and this

came in a reusable ceramic mug. But both gave me that warm glow of Christmas.

Here's to a Joyeux Noel here in Fukuoka!

↧

Our Fukuoka Christmas 2 - Ippudo Ramen, Hakata born and bred

January 10, 2017, 4:33 am

≫ Next: Our Fukuoka Christmas 3 - Kawabata and the old fashioned charms of the Shotengai

≪ Previous: Our Fukuoka Christmas 1 - A Marche de Noel, Hakata Style

There seems to be as many versions of ramen as there are regions in Japan. In Fukuoka,Hakata style ramen is king. This ramen is characterised by its tonkotsu broth -- a rich, milky soup made from hours and hours of cooking pork bones and breaking down all its sinews and collagen to achieve a very deep and layered flavour.

Globally famous Ippudo with branches in Manila and other Asian cities is also found in New York, in Sydney and even London. It is a proud child of Hakata and while we missed trying it the first time we were here, I was not about to pass up a visit this time around.

Lines are usually long in all its branches but on this late Sunday evening, the store at Hakata Station had lots of available space.

For our hungry group of five, we were seated right at the counter, facing the kitchen.

To maximise the compact space at this store, there are no tables, just counters where you dine side by side and facing each other. A divider that runs across each counter keeps you from staring at the person in front of you as he slurps his ramen.

You may find it strange that I had never tried Ippudo Ramen before. It's such a popular brand

that you can find all over Japan but tonkotsu ramen does not appeal to me. I prefer a light, clear broth to an almost creamy soup.

For foreigners, the store has an english menu -- no need to try and decipher the photos. Since there were five of us, we could try all the different ramen on offer.

Since we are seated on the counter facing the kitchen, the appetising smells wafted all over

us. I just knew that my clothes and my hair would smell of pork broth after this meal.

Ippudo has three basic types of ramen that you can order. This is their Akamaru Modern, where a dollop of miso paste and some dark fragrant oil (I'm guessing it's garlic and chili oil) add another layer of taste to the basic tonkotsu soup. Thin nori sheets, crunchy slivers of wood ear mushroom (tengang daga as we know it), not to mention chashu slices and a boiled egg complete the bowl.

We also ordered Ippudo's original classic Shiromaru Motoaji ramen. Putting my (very) limited Nihongo skills to practice -- I surmise that it sort of trans-literates to "white correct basis of taste". Once you taste it, you can understand my translation. The complex and heavy flavours of the broth must certainly be the basis for the global success of Ippudo Ramen.

Since tonkotsu ramen is not really my preference I decided to take a different path. I had the

Karaka ramen, a bowl of tonkotsu broth turned vivid orange by highly spiced, heat seeking chili and miso paste and generously topped with minced pork. One can choose from 5 levels of spiciness - from the safe level 1 to the perhaps abunai (dangerous) level 5 where you would probably be spewing fire after every spoonful.

I was not so brave -- I settled for level 2. Any unwanted heat would be quickly doused by a gulp

of ice cold nama beer.

Gyoza, pork and chive dumplings, is the traditional partner of ramen. Ippudo's gyoza are kawaii and bite sized. An order of ten just about teases your tastebuds.

Ramen sets sometimes include a small chashu donburi -- grilled pork slices over rice.

Ippudo's version is called Chikara Meshi and because this is Fukuoka -- where mentaiko is

a local specialty, there is a coral pink lump of mentaiko on top. The seasoned pollack roe

makes the rice a bit salty, which balances the sweetish sauce of the grilled pork.

Mentaiko is a favourite of mine, so I just had to order Mentaiko Gohan. The rice came with some grated preserved daikon and nori sheets. Take a scoop of rice, a smudge of mentaiko

and some grated daikon, wrap it all in nori and presto -- instant onigiri!

We ordered nearly everything on Ippudo's menu. Were our eyes bigger than our stomachs? Definitely not, as my nearly empty bowl of Karaka ramen will tell you. We finished it all.

We must have been particularly hungry or the food must have been specially good.

Or perhaps both.

Dinner was a slurpi-ly satisfying introduction to the culinary pleasures of Fukuoka --

through its famous hakata style ramen.

Umai desu yo!

NB. Thanks to Jay and my son Gani who took some of the photos used in this post.

↧

Our Fukuoka Christmas 3 - Kawabata and the old fashioned charms of the Shotengai

January 11, 2017, 1:09 am

≫ Next: Our Fukuoka Christmas 4 - The friendly Fukuokans at Yanagibashi Market

≪ Previous: Our Fukuoka Christmas 2 - Ippudo Ramen, Hakata born and bred

One of my favourite things to do in a big sprawling foreign city is to search for the remaining traces

of what the place used to look like before urbanisation and gentrification set in. These could be in the back streets, in just-at-the edge neighbourhoods, in quaint un-touristy places where you'll find the locals going about their daily lives.

In Japan, I enjoy going to the traditional shotengai or shopping street that you can still find even in the uber-urban sophistication of the biggest cities.

Shotengai are old-time covered shopping arcades lined with small stores -- selling goods and services to the neighbourhood. The shotengai can be a few hundred meters or a kilometre or two long.

It is always lively, vibrant and gives you an idea of the soul and character of the city.

In Fukuoka, my favourite is the Kawabata Shotengai -- casual, comfortable, friendly -- just like the spirit of Fukuoka itself.

There are many stores along the covered arcade including small restaurants and coffee shops.

Craving for some western food? L.A. Diner advertises burgers and sodas.

I am surprised to see that there is a hostel on top of this cafe cum bar. The target would most likely be students and young tourists.

Cinderella's clothes look a bit dated and gaudy -- our tour guide Mariya san mentioned that Kawabata is just around the corner from Fukuoka's "entertainment" district so the dresses are what the working girls are probably in to.

Not all the fashion is flashy though -- there are regular clothes and at sale prices too.

It isn't just women's wear that you can find at the arcade.

Surprise, surprise! A children's store with Jay's name on it. So of course, we had to take a photo

with the "owner" himself.

I was so intrigued by this store --it sells a lot of things that you might need for a Buddhist home altar or a shrine. Can you see that giant dipper hanging in front? It's like what you would find in a temizuya or purification fountain, except of course this one is made for a giant's hands.

And yes, I will admit that I seriously thought about how I could bring that dipper home.

Kokuyo is a stationary store. I control myself from going in as Japanese stationary stores are insidious places that make you want to buy and buy and buy all the things you want but don't need.

Beware the Japanese drugstore -- like the stationary shop you will not be able to resist its wares from colourful socks to all sorts of "seen-only-in-Japan"cosmetics and hair and skin care products.

I gave this one a wide berth.

I almost stumble on these boxes of traditional Oshogatsu or New Year decorations. Hung on front doors, these are called shime-kazari and are symbols of good luck.

There are many Koreans living in Japan -- Fukuoka is actually closer to Busan than it is to Tokyo.

This store in Kawabata sells all sorts of Korean goodies, perhaps even tickets on Korean Air?

Fancy a trim, a perm or a blow dry? This local salon isn't fancy and the prices are friendly too.

Near one end of the arcade, I see a familiar shop -- it may look like a fruit and vegetable stand but if you go in, a self-service "cafeteria" serves extremely tasty homestyle meals -- a complete set for just 750 yen! Since you can't see the restaurant from the outside, it's probably a well kept, local "secret"
It's also one of my favourite places to grab a bite in Fukuoka.
Now excuse me while I go and have lunch ...

↧

Our Fukuoka Christmas 4 - The friendly Fukuokans at Yanagibashi Market

January 12, 2017, 5:13 am

≫ Next: Our Fukuoka Christmas 5 - A Salaryman's Lunch at Enya in Tenjin

≪ Previous: Our Fukuoka Christmas 3 - Kawabata and the old fashioned charms of the Shotengai

If Tokyo has Tsukiji and Kyoto has Nishiki, Fukuoka has Yanagibashi Market. All are known as

their respective cities'"kitchens" -- sources of the freshest seafood, meats and produce.

Yanagibashi is right along the main avenue, Sumiyoshi dori. When you reach the bridge that crosses the Nakagawa, the market is waiting at the other end.

The entrance to Yanagibashi is marked by a mosaic of fish. As you walk through, you will see other mosaics of the other things sold in the market like vegetables and fruits.

Unlike Nishiki which stretches out for more than four blocks, Yanagibashi is quite compact. The market's entire length must be two hundred meters or so and there are just about 50 stores. But

what the market lacks for in size, they make up for in smiles -- the vendors are the

friendliest and most helpful that I have ever encountered.

Both home cooks and chefs will find the the best seafood in the market -- clams and other shellfish are kept alive for maximum freshness.

These fish seem surprised that they were caught!

Because we are nearing the end of the year, kazunoko or golden herring roe is prominently displayed. This is one of the traditional good luck foods for oshogatsu or the Japanese New Year.

Do you see the packaged dried fish hanging from the shop ceiling? That is yaki ago, dried flying

fish used to make dashi, which is the base for many soup stocks. Yaki ago is used in ozoni, a soup that is served during the New Year.

Even if the market is abuzz with people, the vendors are never too busy to stop and say hello or even answer questions about what they're selling. Photographs are allowed and they'll even hold up their produce for you to take a close up shot. Most of them will even stop and have their picture taken!

Mentaiko or seasoned fish roe is a Fukuoka specialty and you can definitely find it at Yanagibashi. These are fresh, premium quality mentaiko, much better than the frozen ones sold at the airport.

One of my discoveries at Yanagibashi is mentaiko mayonnaise. It works deliciously as a spread, a dip or even as a salad dressing. Only one store in the market sells it -- and they make it themselves. You can get a commercial brand at the supermarket and even at the airport but it isn't half as good.

No matter which stall you go to, the shopkeepers have a ready smile and are always happy to chat.

And even with my limited Nihongo we are able to carry on a conversation.

This is a very popular stall that sells processed fish products in different forms and varieties. Some are ready to eat, while some are used as toppings or ingredients in dishes like nabe,shabu shabu or even in ramen.

One store in the market doubles as a restaurant. The chiller has various sashimi cuts which they

can prepare for you or you can buy a pack to take home. Since we had just had breakfast, it was

too soon to think about lunch.

At the end of the market is an old time bakery -- selling breads, cookies, crackers, traditional sweets and candies.

It may be too early for lunch but a mid morning pastry seems doable. There are soft buns filled with custard cream or sweet red beans, fried donuts, plain breads -- baking must be done right on premise because appetising smells waft all over the store.

Right across the bakery is Manu Coffee, a local, independent coffee house.

It's a modern take on the kissaten -- the old fashioned Japanese coffee cum tea house.

They have many varieties of coffee beans from all over the world that they sell and use in their

coffee. A wooden menu board shows all kinds of hot and cold drinks that you can order.

We bring our pastries from the bakery -- this shop highly encourages BYOB+++ or

bring-your-own-bread-from-our-neighbor-the-bakery. We take our coffee upstairs and sit by the window to enjoy the view of the Nakagawa.

The baristas at Manu, just like everyone we had met at Yanagibashi Market, are smiling and

good natured. If you come to Fukuoka, come and say hello to everyone and feel the true essence

of the Fukuoka spirit, right here at Yanagibashi Market.

Irrashaimase!

↧

Our Fukuoka Christmas 5 - A Salaryman's Lunch at Enya in Tenjin

January 15, 2017, 11:13 pm

≫ Next: Our Fukuoka Christmas 6 - Nagasaki Redux : Urakami Cathedral, the 26 Martyrs Memorial, Oura Church and Kotai-ji Temple

≪ Previous: Our Fukuoka Christmas 4 - The friendly Fukuokans at Yanagibashi Market

The salaryman is the everyman in Japan. Having worked for so long in a Japanese company, I know just who he is -- I worked with many of them for years. Salarymen are hardworking, loyal to the company and very dependable. They work from morning till night, taking only a quick break in the middle of the day. So -- they also know the fastest, cheapest and tastiest places to grab a quick lunch.

I always like to eat in these small lunch places. The food is always good and affordable.

You can find the salaryman's lunch places in busy commercial areas, amidst office and shopping districts. On this visit to Fukuoka, I found one in an intersection along Tenjin district.

This narrow building had restaurants from the ground to the top floor.

These lunch places have no english menus since they cater primarily to locals. But who needs

one when a picture menu is more than enough -- this appetising poster on the ground floor was for

a restaurant on the third. With a number of meals to choose from and none that cost over 1,000 yen, this was a salaryman's ideal lunch place indeed.

The tiny elevator stopped at the third floor and this door with the green noren marked the entrance

to En-ya -- how did I know the name? Simple, I asked the waitress!

We got the last remaining seats at the counter, where I had a worm's eye view of the dishes and the two cooks busy in the kitchen. Liquor bottles on the cabinet meant that the lunch regulars would normally have drinks here after office hours. Most places like these turn into izakayas or casual bars in the evening.

As you can see, the restaurant is rather cramped -- there are a few tables for four plus counter seating for six. Everyone eats a quick lunch then heads back to work so even if the space is small, turn over is quick and they can do several seatings for lunch.

Our orders came after a five minute wait. The grilled saba had been filleted and deboned and had a nice smoky taste. The setto (set) includes refillable rice, tsukemono or pickles, a small salad and of course the ubiquitous miso soup.

I had my favourite karaage -- hot, crisp and tender with a slight gingery tang. This very generous serving of five large chicken pieces (all thigh fillets, more expensive in Japan than breast fillets)

cost just 750yen. What a great deal!

If you're taking a break from shopping in the Tenjin area, try a salaryman's lunch at Enya or any of the similar lunch places. The specials will leave you with more yen in your wallet for more shopping after.

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Our Fukuoka Christmas 6 - Nagasaki Redux : Urakami Cathedral, the 26 Martyrs Memorial, Oura Church and Kotai-ji Temple

January 21, 2017, 5:43 am

≫ Next: Our Fukuoka Christmas 7 - Toruku Rice at Primrose, beside the Meganebashi in Nagasaki

≪ Previous: Our Fukuoka Christmas 5 - A Salaryman's Lunch at Enya in Tenjin

Most tourists come to Nagasaki for its history -- on August 9, 1945 the second atomic bomb exploded over the city.

But there's more to Nagasaki than just the atomic bomb -- it is where Christianity, more specifically Catholicism, was introduced to Japan as early as the 16th century.

Nagasaki was also where Christians were persecuted upon orders of the shogun,

Toyotomi Hideyoshi. Despite this, pockets of resistance from "hidden Christians" kept the faith alive.

On our second visit to Nagasaki this December, we combined both experiences, a bit of history with
a bit of religion.
With our excellent Tours by Locals guide Miyuki san, we took a short taxi ride from the Atomic Bomb Museum to the top of the hill to visit the famous Urakami Cathedral which was situated a mere 500 meters from the bomb's hypocenter. While the Cathedral is not too far from the Museum,
it is a steep uphill climb so a taxi is the easier way to go.

The Cathedral, which used to be the largest Catholic church in Japan, was originally built in the 1890s. After the blast it was almost completely levelled except for a few pillars and statues that survived. You can see some of these in the Atomic Bomb Museum and some within the church grounds. The biggest pillar that remained relatively intact has been placed beside the Memorial for survivors in Peace Park, on the exact spot over which the bomb exploded.

Photos are not allowed inside so I can only share the few I took of the church facade and exteriors.
This bas relief on the front of the church shows the "kakure kirishitan" or hidden Christians who
had to conceal their faith to avoid being exiled, tortured or killed. The Cathedral was built to give these faithful a place of worship after the many years of persecution.

From the front of the church, you can see the the mountains and hills that surround Nagasaki.
This type of terrain helped protect the city from more destruction as the hills helped contain the bomb blast on the northern side.

It was another short taxi ride to the 26 Martyrs Memorial. Located on top of Nishizaka Hill,
the Memorial is dedicated to the 26 Japanese who were crucified here in 1597 upon orders of Toyotomi Hideyoshi.
This horrible act marked the start of the cruel and avid persecution of Christians which would last throughout the Tokugawa era, well until the end of the 1800s.

The simple but moving bronze monument shows St. Paul Miki, a Jesuit and one of the first Japanese saints, along with his companion martyrs, their eyes raised, at the point where it seems their souls go up to heaven.

There is a Museum behind the monument and in front of it is a statue of our very own
San Lorenzo Ruiz, who was also martyred in Nagasaki although not alongside the 26 Martyrs.
San Lorenzo is held in high esteem and revered by the Christians of Nagasaki and this small garden
in front of the Museum is dedicated to him.

Right beside the Memorial you can see the Gaudi inspired twin spires of St. Philip's Church.
The church is where the bones of St. Paul Miki and St. John Goto are interred.

Nagasaki has more than 100 churches -- more than enough for a pilgrimage.
Miyuki san mentioned that pilgrimages to Nagasaki are becoming increasingly popular, particularly among Filipino tourists.

By shifting my view from the spires of the church, I saw this gigantic statue of the Kannon Buddha on the hillside. Miyuki san said that it was situated in one of the Buddhist cemeteries nearby.

As you can see, it dwarfs the houses beside it. It's standing on top of an equally huge turtle.

If you have just one day in Nagasaki and you want to do a mini-pilgrimage, the other must see is
on the south side of the city. Oura Church now the Minor Basilica of Oura, is the oldest church
in Japan and pre-dates Urakami Cathedral by more than twenty years.
Unlike Urakami which did not survive the blast, Oura was located on the safe side of Nagasaki and thus escaped damage and destruction.
It was built in 1865 by a French priest, Fr. Petitjean who aided the "hidden Christians" by giving them a safe and secure place to worship.
Today, to help preserve the centuries old structure with its beautiful wooden interiors, it is no longer used except for very special occasions. A more modern church has been built nearby where masses are regularly held.
Oura Church has been designated as a Cultural Treasure by the Japanese government as as a Minor Basilica by the Vatican.

As in Urakami Cathedral, photos are not allowed inside the church. This graceful marble statue

of Our Lady is a replica of the original which is inside the church and came all the way from France.

The stained glass rose windows are also from France, brought over when the church was being built.

This serene garden in front of the church has a statue of Fr. Petitjean along with a bust of Pope John Paul II who visited Nagasaki as a pilgrim in 1981.

When you visit Oura, do not fail to go to the small but excellent museum right behind the church. Built by Fr. Petitjean, the building now houses photos, artefacts and other memorabilia from the time the church was built. The most interesting for me were examples of the fumi-e -- these were small images of Jesus or Mary that suspected Christians were made to step or trample on. If they refused, they would be found out as "hidden Christians" and severely punished by torture or even death.

Most well visited tourist spots in Japan have "shopping streets" attached to them. Oura Church is not an exception. The uphill path leading to the church is lined with shops selling local souvenirs and

specialty foods and small cafes where one can have a drink and a snack.

My delicious discovery of the day came from one of the shops along this road -- Iwasaki Honpo

is the famous brand of steamed pork kakuni buns, a Nagasaki specialty.

These buns are like our local cuapao but without any pickled mustard or chopped peanuts -- nothing but a meltingly tender braised piece of pork belly encased in a soft bun. What an amazing find!

I bought a pack of frozen kakuni buns back to the apartment in Fukuoka where we enjoyed it again a few nights after.

Those of you who have read other posts on this blog know that when in Japan, I try to go to as many temples and shrines that I can. After visiting the churches, I asked Miyuki san to take me to at least one temple so I could have a seal for my shuin-cho or temple seal book. We headed off to the Teramachi area where most of the Buddhist temples are.

The Jesuits were the first Christians to discover Nagasaki in the 16th century. They were followed by the Chinese who set up Buddhist temples in the area. Thus, the more well known temples in Nagasaki are heavy in Chinese influence in both style and architecture.

I asked Miyuki san if she could bring me to the temple that looked most "Japanese"so she brought

me to Kotai-ji, a temple that belongs to the Soto-zen sect of Buddhism.

When you enter the temple gates, you will find the Daibutsu-den or Great Buddha Hall waiting for you at the top of the stone steps. Miyuki san told me that Kotai-ji hosts zazen sessions every month and that she has attended at least once.

Inside the Daibutsu-den is this peaceful and calm figure of the Buddha Vairochana. It stands over three meters tall and sits atop a lotus flower. I found out later from the monk who stamped my

shuin-cho that this statue is over three hundred years old.

As we head out of Kotai-ji, we met this very fat and friendly temple cat who just didn't seem to want to let us go.

He even lay down right by my feet, purring in contentment as I rubbed his thick, clean fur.

But we had a train to catch to take us back to Fukuoka and I think the monks would have missed him terribly if I had "cat-napped" him. See you again, Neko chan -- maybe in one of your next nine lives or perhaps on my next visit to Nagasaki.

↧

Our Fukuoka Christmas 7 - Toruku Rice at Primrose, beside the Meganebashi in Nagasaki

January 23, 2017, 7:26 am

≫ Next: Our Fukuoka Christmas 8 - The Remarkable Kumamoto-jo ... a must-go-to in Kyushu

≪ Previous: Our Fukuoka Christmas 6 - Nagasaki Redux : Urakami Cathedral, the 26 Martyrs Memorial, Oura Church and Kotai-ji Temple

Moon bridges are highly arched stone walkways that are found in many Japanese gardens and parks.

When seen over water, the reflection looks a like a perfectly round full moon.

In Nagasaki, the most well known stone bridge is not a moon bridge but a double arched structure known as Meganebashi or Spectacles Bridge.

It's one of the most famous stone bridges not just in Nagasaki but in the whole of Japan.

The Meganebashi spans a narrow part of the Nakashima River. Built in the 1600s, our Tours by Locals guide Miyuki san said that it is the oldest stone bridge in Japan.

A few centuries ago, the Nakashima had many stone bridges crossing it, each one leading to one of the city's famous chinese temples in the Teramachi district. This map in blue tile shows how this area looked like many years ago.

The best view of Meganebashi is from hundred meters away, from another stone bridge directly across it. Doesn't it really look like a pair of old fashioned round spectacles? I suddenly remembered

John Lennon's face with his famous owlish eyeglasses.

The visit to Meganebashi coincided with lunchtime. I had requested Miyuki san to let us try

a local and traditional Nagasaki specialty -- toruku rice or turkish rice.

Toruku rice consists a pork cutlet with gravy served with tomato based spaghetti and rice.

Yes, it's a double carb meal! I couldn't wait to try it.

While we were taking photos and admiring the views, Miyuki san was busy on the phone making reservations at her favourite lunch place which incidentally, was just across the road.

The restaurant is incongruously called "Primrose". It's on the second floor, you walk up a narrow

and steep staircase. There is no sign except for a small bulletin board with a photo of the house specialty -- toruku rice. This is definitely a place that only locals would know about.

If you lucky enough to sit by the window, you get a good view of the Meganebashi across the road.

The menu is in Japanese, sorry but Primrose does not have an english menu.

But you don't really need one because the photo speaks a thousand calories. There are just a few items -- it's basically toruku rice as the star dish with a few yoshoku style dishes like a cheese casserole, pasta and beef stew.

And here is toruku rice, in all its mouthwatering glory. I get hungry just seeing this photo again.

Primrose's toruku rice comes is awe inspiring ... there is so much food on the plate!

For 1,000 yen, I got a gigantic pork cutlet liberally doused with gravy, a ton of rice smothered

with a sweet and spicy Japanese curry sauce, and a heap of spaghetti hiding under the pork.

Fresh greens with a tart dressing complete my crowded plate.

Miyuki san said that this dish was "invented" in Nagasaki and blends Portuguese and Japanese culinary traditions.

It may look like a mishmash of flavours -- curry/gravy/spaghetti sauce and I was surprised that it all worked well together. A triumph for culinary multi-culturalism!

For those with daintier appetites, there is the "Ladies' Dish"which is a smaller portion of pork but with one piece of fried prawn to compensate. Of course this being Japan, they did have the requisite Kiddie Meal which Martina enjoyed.

From where we sat, I could see into Primrose's small open kitchen. The chef is busy at the stove

and has just one girl to help him serve the food, wash the dishes and yes -- act as the cashier.

What an efficient operation -- it's certainly an advantage when you just have a few choices on your menu.

This is Miyuki san, our Tours by Locals guide. She is an excellent resource of anything that you may want to know about Nagasaki and will definitely help you maximise your time in the city.

Thank you, Miyuki san for taking us to your favourite lunchtime place and for letting us taste the fusion fabulousness of toruku rice!

P.S.

On our way out Miyuki san, who knows about my penchant for shotengai, took us on a quick visit to Hamanmachi -- Nagasaki's very own covered shopping arcade. There are more than 700 shops in a warren of streets! I barely saw a fraction of them. Zannen desu ne!

Nagasaki, I shall return!

↧

Our Fukuoka Christmas 8 - The Remarkable Kumamoto-jo ... a must-go-to in Kyushu

February 6, 2017, 5:28 am

≫ Next: Our Fukuoka Christmas 9 - Sakura Niku noodles at Higo Moshiya Yumeakari in Kumamoto

≪ Previous: Our Fukuoka Christmas 7 - Toruku Rice at Primrose, beside the Meganebashi in Nagasaki

When Jay and I first visited Fukuoka on June 2016, it had just been two months since a powerful earthquake hit Kumamoto, which is about a hundred miles away. The city suffered damage as well as its most significant monument, Kumamoto-jo or Kumamoto Castle. I wanted to visit then but was told that they were in the middle of recovery and might not be ready for tourists.

On this December trip to Fukuoka, Kumamoto was number one on my "bakit (why) list".

As in "bakit hindi ko puntahan ito ngayon?" ("why should I not go now?"). We had the

3-day JR Northern Kyushu pass which allowed us unlimited travel on JR trains, including

the Kyushu shinkansen which would take us from Hakata Station to Kumamoto in just 35 minutes.

(NB The Northern Kyushu Pass costs 8,500 yen per person. We used it for Nagasaki and Kumamoto where round trip tickets would have amounted to 19,040 yen per person. The pass was truly a terrific buy!)

The shinkansen ride to Kumamoto went by so quickly -- we hardly had time to relax and enjoy

our comfortable reserved seats.

The two most famous "brands" in Kumamoto are the splendid castle and the friendly

black bear known as "Kumamon", the prefecture's mascot. As a big fan, I was happily

surprised by his giant grinning face in the train station.

Like Nagasaki,Kumamoto has a tram system -- the best and easiest way to get around the city.
There are just two lines -- A and B and at some point they meet up in one station so you can transfer and get to another part of the city. Line A stops right in front of the train station and takes passengers to the stop nearest Kumamoto-jo.

The tram is standing room only for most of the 15 minute ride to Kumamoto Shiyakusho-mae, the stop closest to the castle. From this point on -- let me trace our steps to Kumamoto-jo so if you're

going on your own, you'll know just how to get there.

Across the road from the tram stop, this directional poster helped us get our bearings.

Our approach started by the Nagabei Wall that runs along the Tsuboi River.
The wall at more than 230 meters long, is the longest of all the castle walls and is a designated Important Cultural Property. It is made of contrasting black and white stones which sadly have crumbled in certain sections. This was my very first view of the damage caused by the earthquake and it was disheartening to see.
Do you see those bare branches? Those are cherry blossom trees and during sakura season, the Nagabei is framed by masses of pink and white blooms, making it a very popular spot for both
locals and tourists alike.

We saw more extensive damage as we walked down the path. This portion of the Nagabei has collapsed completely with crumbled stones spilling out from a gaping hole. It is as if its guts had poured out and I for one, felt a visceral punch to see this destruction.

Before entering the castle walls, you will see this statue of Kato Kiyomasa, the local daimyo or

feudal lord who in 1600 started building this castle complex, expanding it from the fortress that

it was originally constructed as, in the late 1400s.

Lord Kiyomasa finished the castle in 1607 -- a relatively short time for such a massive undertaking.

It is sad to note that he passed away in 1611, just a few years after his castle was built. He enjoyed

it for just a short time.

Before the earthquake, one of the access points to the castle was via the Hazekata Gate. As you can see from this photo, this entrance is now barricaded and closed to the public. Instead, visitors are directed to go through the Johsaien, a tourist information facility that also houses souvenir shops, restaurants and rest areas.

Right outside, someone has cleverly put together PET bottles in the shape of the main castle keep.

I wish the earthquake had toppled this "castle" instead.

This is the entrance to Johsaien -- it hews quite closely to the look of the period.

We walked inside and exited via a side gate which led to the castle's perimeter areas that have been deemed secure and thus, are open to the public.

Behind the Johsaien is a steep stone staircase that takes visitors to the areas that will give everyone vantage though long-distance views of the castle.

One of the first structures that you will see is the Hitsujisaru Yagura (yagura means turret) that guards the southwest flank of Kumamoto-jo.

Here is another view of the turret, now seen with the collapsed portions of the walls. Across it is the empty moat. Can you see the stones carefully laid out on the grass? Restoration of the castle consists of trying to put the broken stones back in the same place -- much like a giant puzzle. Local artisans and craftsmen are working on the restoration and are committed to seeing the castle brought back to its original glory.

We walked up a short but steep incline to reach this wide open space where we could see the main castle buildings from across the moat. You can see that the enormous stone walls that have sustained much damage.

This is the Inui Yagura that guards the northwest part of the castle . Can you see that it is precariously balanced on one part of the stone wall that has almost completely crumbled.

Directly behind it is the Uto-Yagura. Five stories tall and one of the original buildings in the castle compound, it is a designated Important Cultural Property. Thankfully, it was not fully destroyed by the earthquake.

You can catch a glimpse of the main castle buildings partially obscured in the far background.

Around the bend from the moat we saw these large plastic bags placed firmly against the stone walls to prevent any further damage.

This is the Kumamoto-joInari Shrine also known as the Kato Shrine. It was built in the 1600s to protect the castle and Lord Kiyomasa. The shrine is neither big nor is it flashy -- it looks very much like a neighbourhood shrine -- which is what it exactly was, during Lord Kiyomasa's time.

This is also the end of the road for visitors as the castle grounds beyond this area are closed off to the public.

At Kato-jinja, I saw this miniature shrine perched on a tree branch. Small shide or lightning bolt shaped paper streamers are hung from a hemp rope. The shide are Shinto symbols used to designate sacred or holy areas. There must be a kami or spirit that resides in this tree.

From the shrine, you will get a very good look of the Honmaru. This is where Lord Kiyomasa lived and where he conducted government business.

You can see that the roof tiles have been badly damaged. Despite that, it continues to stand tall and majestic against the darkening winter sky. I can understand why Kumamoto-jo is one of the top 3 castles in Japan.
Even a powerful earthquake cannot diminish its breath taking presence.

While I would have wanted to visit a few more places in Kumamoto, the main purpose of this short trip was to see the castle. After spending a little over three hours in Kumamoto-jo, we headed back to the station for the train ride back to Fukuoka.

The Kyushu Shinkansen makes two trips every hour to and from Fukuoka. It's less than 100 kilometres from Kumamoto and takes only 30 to 40 minutes on the the shinkansen. If you are in Fukuoka, it would be a shame to miss this quick trip to Kumamoto to see the castle.

Please visit ... your tourist dollars will certainly help towards the castle's repair and reconstruction!

P.S.

I took this photo somewhere along the Nagabei Path. Seeing this yellow bud push its way up, beyond wood and concrete, gave me a feeling of hope. I feel it is a symbol of the recovery that is happening now in Kumamoto.

Because of the strong spirit of the citizens of Kumamoto, I know that one day the castle will be restored to its full grandeur and greatness.

NB Many thanks to my son Gani and husband Jay for some of the photos used in this post. And thank you to google photos for the enhancement of my photo of the Inui Yagura Turret.

We wandered around Kumamoto-jo on our own, without the invaluable services of a local guide. In an attempt to

identify the various structures in my photos, I relied mainly on the tourist map and a magazine specially published detailing the progress of the restoration. If there are any mistakes as to the proper identification of the turrets and buildings, the mistakes are all mine. Gomen nasai!

↧

Our Fukuoka Christmas 9 - Sakura Niku noodles at Higo Moshiya Yumeakari in Kumamoto

February 11, 2017, 5:16 am

≫ Next: Our Fukuoka Christmas 10 - Foraging (and feeding!) at the Hakozaki Nomi-no-Ichi

≪ Previous: Our Fukuoka Christmas 8 - The Remarkable Kumamoto-jo ... a must-go-to in Kyushu

When I travel, specially when I visit a new place, I always want to try the local specialty. On this visit to Kumamoto, the helpful lady at the Tourist Information desk at the station suggested that we would find local food at the restaurants around Kumamoto-jo.

At the foot of the castle grounds is the tourist facility called Sakura-no-baba Josaien also known as "Castle Town". There are shops selling Kumamoto's specialties, a pavilion for Edo-themed performances starring "samurai" and even a "mini museum" dedicated to the life of Kato Kiyomasa

and the Hosokawa family, feudal lords of Kumamoto.

More importantly, for hungry tourists like us there are a number of cafes and restaurants.

We peered into several before deciding on Moshiya Yumeakari because the menu posted outside offered the specialty of Kumamoto -- sakura niku or horse meat.

Inside, the restaurant was surprisingly spacious. The maitre d (yes, they have one) led us to a comfortable booth located in the back.

The english menu features just a select number of dishes -- ramen and donburi or rice bowls

but it is the noodle soup with horse meat that I had made up my mind to order.

I had tried horse meat before in Tokyo, as both basashi (sashimi) and as the prettily named

"sakura nabe"and was looking forward to enjoying it again.

Why is horse meat called sakura niku or cherry blossom meat -- this is because of the raw meat's bright, pinkish-red colour.

I'm glad that my son Gani is with me so I don't have to drink beer by myself!

Jay decides to order the donburi made from the special Higo Asobibuta pork, egg and garnished with pickled ginger strips. The pork most probably came from pigs raised in Aso, a city in Kumamoto prefecture.

This is my bowl of horse meat noodles. The soy sauce based soup is thick and a bit gelatinous, reminding me of maki, the chinese noodle dish. It's rich and tasty. The noodles are round and of medium thickness, perhaps to better soak up the hearty soup base.

My bowl is generously filled with chunks of sakura niku. It must have been boiled for hours because it's tender and dissolves deliciously in my mouth. For those of you wondering what horse meat tastes like, it has a surprisingly fine texture, more so than beef. There are undertones of a mild sweetness. It is also less fatty and probably better for your health.

In addition to the sakura niku, my bowl is dotted with my favourite gingko nuts which add a bit of chewy texture to the dish. It is said that when he built Kumamoto-jo, Lord Kiyomasa planted

many gingko trees in the castle grounds so that in case of a prolonged siege, there would always be gingko nuts to feed everyone. It's nice to have that bit of history in this delectable noodle bowl.

We definitely enjoyed our hearty lunch at Yumeakari. There was just enough time to pick up a few

souvenirs before we headed back to the station to catch the shinkansen back to Fukuoka.

One last photo with my favourite bear, Kumamon. Apparently aside from being the prefecture's mascot, he also moonlights as the Station Master of Kumamoto Station.

↧

Our Fukuoka Christmas 10 - Foraging (and feeding!) at the Hakozaki Nomi-no-Ichi

February 14, 2017, 9:49 pm

≫ Next: Our Fukuoka Christmas 11 - In the black at Go Kitchen

≪ Previous: Our Fukuoka Christmas 9 - Sakura Niku noodles at Higo Moshiya Yumeakari in Kumamoto

One of the few places where you can find something irresistible, quirky, unique, priceless and yet affordable is a local flea market.
In France, these are called marche aux puces (literally, market of fleas), in Madrid, the biggest is called el rastro and in Japan, the old-timers fondly call them nomi-no-ichi.

By whatever name they are called, flea markets sing out their siren call to me and I can never resist.

I did my research before our trip to Fukuoka and found out one would be held on December 23 -- just in time for our visit.

Flea markets open early and close early too so the early birds get the best finds. The Hakozaki -gu

Flea Market opens at 7:00 so we set off right after breakfast.

The bus ride to Hakozaki-gu took a little over 30 minutes. I had been here last June but Jay and Gani had not, so a visit to this third most important Hachiman shrine in Japan was the first priority. There were more pigeons than shrine goers this early in the morning.

Hakozaki-gu's entrance is guarded by a huge stone torii. Beyond it is the Hakozaki Nomi-no-Ichi.

Some major temples and shrines in Japan hold regular flea markets as the grounds are usually extensive and can accommodate many stalls and shoppers.

In Kyoto, there are monthly flea markets at To-ji and Kitano Tenman-gu , both of which are huge
markets and much anticipated by both locals and visitors alike.

The Hakozaki-guNomi-no-Ichi is very popular and with over 200 vendors is probably the largest in Kyushu and certainly one of the top flea markets in Japan.

This shopper has already snagged a prize -- a vintage footstool plus some more items in her shopping bag. Perhaps she's on her way home.

Like any flea market, there are all sorts of items for sale, some of it new but most are "pre-owned"
or "pre-loved".
Vendors have set up their stalls from behind parked vehicles with merchandise carefully arrayed on folding tables.

This scene reminds me so much of a familiar Paris week-end scene at my favourite -- the Marche
aux Puces de la Porte de Vanves where cars and even light trucks are squeezed side by side with items for sale spilling out onto the sidewalk.

Of course this being Japan -- things are more neat and orderly.

Jay and I had been looking for a cast iron tea pot and we saw several "good as new" examples at the market. They were well below department store prices so we were happy to have finally bought
one.

The comical slightly ribald tanuki (a fairytale racoon like creature) is a common sight outside izakayas. Carrying its little sake flask it invites you to drop by and have a drink.

At every flea market I go to, there is always a stand-out item that I really want but know that I cannot bring home. I recall, with some regret -- antique light sconces, ceramic topped apothecary jars, vintage steamer trunks (!) and other one-of-a-kind finds that were too fragile or too heavy to lug back home.
Today's most wanted item was this vintage bamboo and rattan rocking chair that stopped me dead in my tracks. It was definitely a find but also would never have fit in my suitcase.

Antiques were out in full force. I wonder how old this child's pedal car is? Made of tin and wood, it may not have been in mint condition but still something that a collector would definitely snap up!

I am not sure if this vintage metal wash basin set is actually functional or merely a decorative piece.

Some vendors have added home grown produce to their usual merchandise.

One of the thinks I look for in Japanese flea markets are old obis -- those broad sashes that are tied around kimonos. They are usually made of gorgeous rich silk brocade. I have quite a few stashed away so for today, I was just "looking".

A small scoop of these wooden beads costs 500 yen each. I have no idea what I will use them for ...

a Buddha bracelet maybe? But I buy two scoops anyway. They hardly weigh anything and are so

pretty that I could not resist.

Poor, forlorn Teddy -- looking spiffy and clean as sits with his valise, waiting for some child to take him home.

These tote bags were re-purposed from used obis and kimonos. The designs are traditionally Japanese and would make unusual omiyage or pasalubong. They were also very reasonably

priced at just 500 yen each.

I am always attracted to traditional Japanese clothing -- at the market, there are haori (loose, worn over a kimono) and happi coats (loose, for informal wear) in different colours and designs that match the different seasons.

Over the many years of combing through various nomi-no-ichi, I have bought quite a few of these

at unbelievable prices ... would you believe 500 yen for a dark purple coat with embroidery?!

I have recycled and worn them on formal occasions -- giving a new and fresh look to standard evening dress.

There are plenty of lacquer ware and beautiful stone and ceramic plates, bowls and cups but these

are now also available in local Japanese surplus shops.

Audiophiles and bibliophiles would be happy rooting through boxes and crates of books and vinyl LPs at the market.

Fancy some vintage toys -- monsters, robots, action figures even some Buddhas or Gods of Fortune?

E.T and Harry Potter are also in attendance.

I was so happy to see this yakitori stall near the end of the market. The smells of grilled meat over a charcoal fire cut wafted through the cold air -- reeling us right in.

No english signs available -- just point to each skewer and ask if it is tori (chicken), buta (pork) or gyu (beef).

On the rightmost are tsukune or chicken meatballs. These are dipped in tare or a sweetish spicy sauce. Beside it are skewers of kawa -- the deadly but delicious chicken skin.

As you order, the grill master finishes cooking up a half-cooked skewer, brushing it several times with his special tare or sauce. The yakitori in this stall are all tare, no options for yakitori shio or just with salt -- which is what I normally prefer.

There are tables and plastic chairs beside the stall so we can enjoy our barbecue at leisure.

Water and other drinks are available from the vending machines nearby. I would have gotten a

cold beer but it seemed much too early in the day for that.

The yakitori was hot and delicious. Aside from the tsukune, we also had pork skewers, momo or chicken thigh and mune or lean (and healthier) chicken breast.

Despite our limited language skills, we were able to chat with the friendly chef, who was kind enough to allow us to take photos.

This unplanned and tasty stop was the perfect way to end a morning of foraging through the many delightful finds at the Hakozaki Nomi-no-Ichi.

NB Thanks to Jay and Gani for some of the photos used in this post!

↧

Our Fukuoka Christmas 11 - In the black at Go Kitchen

February 15, 2017, 10:18 pm

≫ Next: Our Fukuoka Christmas 12 - Yakitori Zen ... a barbecue state of mind

≪ Previous: Our Fukuoka Christmas 10 - Foraging (and feeding!) at the Hakozaki Nomi-no-Ichi

When on vacations of a week or more, I prefer to stay in apartments rather than hotels.
It somehow gives me the feeling that I "belong", at least for the time that I am there.
I like exploring the neighbourhood -- buying bread from nearby bakeries, shopping in the small markets and enjoying meals in restaurants that have not been discovered by tourists.

On this trip to Fukuoka, we were lucky to stay in a quiet neighbourhood. On walks to and from the apartment, we would often pass by this cozy little cafe called Go Kitchen.
It was full of regulars during mealtimes -- office workers from the nearby buildings and residents.
The blue door looked quite inviting. Green plants and wooden penguins on the window sill added to the eclectic, homey appeal. Rough hewn wooden benches hopefully meant that smokers were not allowed inside the restaurant.

One afternoon we finally decided to drop in for a late lunch. At 3 p.m. the place was nearly empty. I immediately like the unpretentious, comfortable vibe. Menus on the table were in Japanese and our waitress could hardly speak or understand english.

She beckoned us outside ... were we being thrown out of the place?

It turned out she wanted to show us the signboard which had photos of their

(I'm guessing) specialties -- hamburg steak, a tomato based pasta dish and something

I could not quite identify, so I had to point and ask ... "kore wa ... omurice desu ka?"

She smiled enthusiastically -- "Hai! So desu."

Food once again had broken the language barrier!

After we all trooped back inside, I settled down in our booth which had a good view of the
chef probably making our meal . A counter for diners wraps around the entire kitchen. I loved the simple overhead shelves for cups and bowls, sake and shochu bottles -- a tasteful and efficient way to maximise the limited space.

Although we did see the photo on the menu outside, Jay and I were both taken aback when his order of hamburg steak arrived at the table.

It looked like it had been rolled in tar! Had the kitchen burnt it? Why was it so black?

It turned out that a black sauce had been poured all over it. The hamburg steak itself was perfectly cooked. Broiled not fried, the hefty patty was succulent, juicy and beefy.

The hamburg set at Go Kitchen came with buttered vegetables plus a bowl of hot rice

and miso soup.

It's your typical yoshoku dish where western influences are blended with Japanese tastes and preferences.

My omurice did not look like the normal omurice at all. It came in a gigantic pasta plate that almost covered the entire tray. The same black sauce that blanketed Jay's hamburg steak was slathered all over the egg and rice.

This black sauce must be Go Kitchen's very own special concoction. Jet black with a satiny sheen,

it did not taste like any sauce I had tried before. I could not pinpoint it specifically as salty-sweet

or sweetish-spicy. The consistency was not quite thick but it wasn't soupy either.

It was certainly savoury and full of umami goodness.

It completely confounded us and we just had to keep tasting it until we finished everything on our plates.

Omurice is customarily served with tomato ketchup -- whether on the side or squeezed on top.

Since this obviously had been removed, the chef had incorporated ketchup with the chicken broth fried rice so each spoonful reminded you that this strange looking dish was an omurice indeed.

Go Kitchen's version fused tradition with the chef's innovation -- and it worked, deliciously.

We lingered long after our late lunch -- still trying to decipher the inexplicable puzzle of

Go Kitchen's uniquely flavourful black sauce. Perhaps another visit is needed before we can crack

this riddle. In the meantime, I'll have another glass of beer!

↧

Our Fukuoka Christmas 12 - Yakitori Zen ... a barbecue state of mind

March 6, 2017, 9:15 pm

≫ Next: Our Fukuoka Christmas 13 - Wagyu wishes fulfilled at Beef Taigen

≪ Previous: Our Fukuoka Christmas 11 - In the black at Go Kitchen

Put it on a stick, place it on top of an open flame and I'm yours!
Whether it's a bright red hotdog or bits of tripe, a slice of pork belly with fat or tightly bunched together chicken entrails ... if it's barbecued, it's food that I love.
The humblest piece of meat, with the proper seasoning or marinade is transformed once it's grilled.

In Japan, the equivalent of barbecue is yakitori -- mostly grilled chicken but diverse enough to include other meats, fish or even vegetables.
Yakitori is a popular offering in izakayas or bars. My favourite yakitori joints are smoky, boozy
little places, usually nestled in narrow alleys or under the train tracks and frequented by salarymen and locals.

On this trip to Fukuoka, there were many restaurants around our Airbnb apartment rental, one of which was a yakitori place right in our building. How convenient -- I could pop down and have my

yakitori fix anytime.

A few evenings later, this is just what we did. We traipsed down to Yakitori Zen (an apt name
for the state of mind that good food invariably reduces me to) for a few skewers and a few beers.

Yakitori Zen was a bit bigger, neater and certainly better lit than most of the hole-in-the-wall,
along-the-riles (by the railway tracks) places that I normally go to in Tokyo.
There were a few tables for bigger groups. We hesitated as to where we would sit but the chef waved us over to sit at the counter in front of the open kitchen.

I was happy to see an english menu. At Yakitori Zen, you can order a la carte or have your skewers by the set. Tonight, we were just "grazing" so we ordered one serving composed of 7 skewers, "omakase" style (chef's recommendations).

Izakayas normally give you small dishes of otsumami or snacks to go with your beer.
These are placed in front of you the minute you sit down.
If there is a "table charge" (between 300 and 500 yen) this is what you are paying for. For places without a "table charge" like Yakitori Zen, these are on the house.
Our small bowls had stewed mushrooms with bits of chicken and an appetiser of simmered vegetables with fried tofu and a few slices of hot red peppers.

I could not wait to sip my beer -- ice cold and heavenly. Hand torn cabbage leaves tossed with a refreshing ponzu vinaigrette is not a salad but is meant to be eaten with the yakitori -- think of it as having slaw with your barbecue.

On the counter is a glass encased chiller with trays of the various prepared yakitori sticks -- just waiting to be seasoned and grilled. On the first night that we visited, we ordered the set but on our next visit (yes, I went twice) I just pointed to what I wanted to eat.

Yakitori can be seasoned two ways -- shio or just lightly salted and tare, brushed with a special sauce. Normally the chef makes his own tare so you never quite get the same flavour from each yakitori place. While I prefer plain shio some cuts of meat are better eaten with tare sauce.

With our counter seats, we had a ringside view of the chef as he worked -- here he lightly drizzles the skewers with salt (usually also mixed with a bit of ground pepper).

The sticks are placed on the grill for just a minute or two. The skewers are frequently turned so that a

good sear can trap in the juices. Yakitori is never dry but always moist and juicy.

Our omakase set started with sunagimo or chicken gizzard which is one of my favourites.

The other skewer looks like tsukune or chicken meatballs but the chef said it was made of both ground chicken and pork.

Our next skewer was sinful but scrumptious pork belly with negi or japanese leeks, a riff on the classic negima.

Some poor octopus lost a few of his eight legs, giving it up for this tako yakitori -- it was soft but still firm and just so delicious.

Check out Yakitori Zen's special chopsticks at the top of this photo. Rough hewn twigs that looked like they had been taken straight from the tree.

Reba or chicken liver, alternated with bits of scallions, is brushed with tare sauce and dredged through sesame seeds. The sesame seeds and the bits of crunchy char work together to remove the mineral-ly, metallic taste of chicken liver that I normally do not like.

We have a few more skewers -- mune or chicken breast is paired with sliced white onions.

We also get chicken with asparagus stalks -- the chef's healthier but no less tastier version of the

more common aspara bacon (bacon wrapped asparagus).

And I finally get to taste the chef's excellent tsukune or chicken meatballs glazed with tare.

Motto biru kudasai! (one more beer please!)

Full disclosure -- we had double orders of the tsukune right after we tasted it.

Our chef was rather shy but not unfriendly. I liked his twists on the normal yakitori varieties --

his "zen"focus resulted in perfectly matched ingredients and flavours.

While there was an assistant to slice the meat and deliver the orders to the tables, the chef himself attended to us seated along the counter while at the same time, cooking up the orders as they came in.

At the other end of the counter, our seat mates were obviously enjoying an evening of beer-y banter and what seemed to be a steady supply of yakitori.

Izakaya fare includes other items besides yakitori -- agedashi tofu is a popular order.

Silky tofu is dredged through cornstarch and lightly fried till a crisp golden crust covers the creamy block of soybean softness.

Set on a light dashi and shoyu sauce, the chef's version comes with thinly sliced nori and grated daikon topped with a smudge of pickled ginger.

Lightly simmered shishito peppers remind me of my favourite Galician treat - pimentos de padron -and provide just the faintest sweetish heat.

Yakitori Zen offers sashimi but only chicken, duck and the specialty of Kumamoto -- basashi or sakura yukke aka horse meat sashimi.

Before you condemn me for eating My Little Pony, please let me tell you that horse meat is part of the culinary traditions of the Japanese and I was in no way eating something taboo.

I had first enjoyed sakura niku (as horse meat is called) many years ago in Tokyo and remembered how much I was surprised by the delicate taste of the meat.

Sakura yukke is often served with a mild and sweet shoyu sauce. A small raw quail's egg

yolk is placed on top of the meat -- everything blends so well together that we finish the dish in no time at all.

We took our sweet time at Yakitori Zen, enjoying the "zen" like feeling of being completely

at peace. Or was it merely a yakitori and beer induced stupor?

If you are ever in Fukuoka, don't miss out on ascending to this "zen" state of mind.

Look for Yakitori Zen along Meijimachi dori, somewhere off the Sumiyoshi-jinja.

The door is marked by this simple piece of wood that looks somewhat like a walking stick (or the rough chopsticks you'll find inside).

N.B. Thank you to my son Gani for some of his photos used in this post.

↧

Our Fukuoka Christmas 13 - Wagyu wishes fulfilled at Beef Taigen

March 8, 2017, 2:55 am

≫ Next: The many colours of our National Museum

≪ Previous: Our Fukuoka Christmas 12 - Yakitori Zen ... a barbecue state of mind

Why am I still writing about my Christmas vacation in March? I procrastinate too much -- putting off writing for tomorrow ... or how about Friday? Next week?

Well dear reader, if you thought that you were going to read about Fukuoka till the cows came home ... here is the absolute last post.

I hope you will be "moo-lified".

From the bad puns, you will have guessed what this post is about.

Steak is not high on my list of favourites but once in a "rare" while, I do get a hankering for a nice piece of beef. This usually happens when I am in Japan as wagyu -- with its unparalleled marbling, is my beef of choice.

While westerners may not like wagyu for this very same character, this is what I feel makes it unique and deliciously different.

Jay and I were strolling around Canal City when we came upon Beef Taigen, a popular wagyu chain in Fukuoka.

There were quite a lot of interesting photos outside the restaurant. This shows the select group of ranchers from Kagoshima Prefecture who raise the black cows and supply Beef Taigen with all grades of wagyu.

I did a bit of research and discovered that more than two thirds of the black cows in Japan come from Kagoshima. Of course there are other types of Japanese cows but black cows are what we normally associate wagyu with.

Kobe and Matsuzaka may be more well known but Kagoshima is the "moo-ther"lode (sorry for another bad pun!)

A butcher's chart is also displayed outside. I try to guess what the various parts are but can only come up with the rump (10 or 11?) ) and the tongue or cheeks perhaps, another obvious guess.

Would ribs be number 7? And is that oblong shape beside the number 15 tenderloin?

I guess I will never make it to butcher school.

The branch in Canal City is always full of shoppers and tourists since the prices for meals are very reasonable. One of the specials is a wagyu hamburg steak for the very attractive price of just 1,100 yen.

While long queues are normal during lunch and dinner time, we arrive way past noon and are seated right away. The steak of the day is 3,000 yen which we are told is a 150 gram sirloin.

We order that and a hamburg steak.

After a while our lunch trays are brought out. Jay's sirloin steak setto came with a bowl of rice, miso soup, salad and three types of condiments -- seasoned salt, and two types of shoyu based sauces. Freshly grated wasabi is also included and Jay said that wasabi and salt on steak was a delicious discovery for him.

I could not quite believe that this generous serving weighed just 150 grams. Surely they must have made a mistake?

But the menu clearly stated that all cuts of beef are 150 grams and all orders are served medium rare, unless the customer specifies otherwise. Medium rare is how we normally order --

I think it is the ideal doneness for an excellent cut of steak.

I had the hamburg steak or hambaagu as the Japanese call it, since the waitress said it was their specialty. Of course my secret plan was to swipe a piece or two from Jay's sirloin.

With the combined beefy aromas rising from our respective hot plates, I knew that our clothes would smell of wagyu for the rest of the day.

The Japanese hambaagu steak should never be thought of as a hamburger steak -- they should not even be mentioned in the same breath.

Beef Taigen's hambaagu is made with only the best cuts of prime grade wagyu, definitely no gristle, no extenders. The patty is simply seasoned with salt and pepper, to bring out the undeniable flavour of superior beef.

Like Jay's steak, my hambaagu is cooked medium rare -- lightly pink inside with a nice even lightly charred exterior.

Jay is down to his last piece of steak -- and he's eating it and not giving it to me.

I did get a taste of the sirloin and it was every bit as delectable as I had known it would be.

The marbling increases the flavour aside from making the meat so mouth meltingly tender.

I raised a toast to the Kagoshima black cow to thank him for his sacrifice of top quality

beef goodness. He did not die in vain -- he fulfilled our wildest wagyu wishes.

And of course, here's a toast to finally finishing up this Fukuoka series.

I hope that by reading my posts, you'll be inspired to visit one of these days.

If you do, head to Canal City and pay homage to wagyu at Beef Taigen.

↧

The many colours of our National Museum

April 5, 2017, 2:41 am

≫ Next: A Happy Meal at Happy Delicious Kitchen in Binondo

≪ Previous: Our Fukuoka Christmas 13 - Wagyu wishes fulfilled at Beef Taigen

When traveling abroad, a museum is always high on my list of must-see places. Aside from being the repository of a country's treasures -- I believe that the museum is a mirror of its culture and its soul. I am somewhat ashamed to admit that I have only just revisited our very own National Museum ... perhaps after more than 40 years.

The National Museum of the Filipino People, as it is properly titled, is located in the old Legislative and Senate Building which was built in the 1920s. The building was almost completely destroyed when the Americans bombed Manila. Thankfully, it was restored and renovated and and now
retains much of its original grandeur.

These gorgeous marble rounded columns are just some of the minor changes from the post war renovations. The Museum, specifically the National Gallery of Art, moved to this location in 2003 and the building, an architectural work of art in itself, is certainly the best place to hold our nation's masterpieces.

After you go through the columns, you enter what used to be the old Session Hall of the House of Representatives.

There are only two paintings in this cavernous space but they are by two of the greatest Filipino painters -- on the left is "The Assassination of Governor Bustamante"by Felix Resurreccion Hidalgo, a painting that was based on an actual local historic event.

Across it is the "Spoliarium" by Juan Luna, often called the most important Filipino painter of all time.
Unfortunately it does not depict a local event, as Hidalgo's does, but instead shows all the blood
and gore of the spoliarium or the basement of the Colosseum of Rome.

I must have been in college when I first saw this painting, set in a much darker room.
I had an almost physical reaction to it. I could smell the blood, the sawdust, the sweat that seemed to ooze from the painting. I remember that I wanted to throw up and leave the room.

But on this occasion, in this well lit and spacious hall, the painting while still magnificent, seemed to have lost some of its gut wrenching effect on me.

My reveries in front of Luna's obra maestra were soon interrupted by dozens of elementary school children who were on a field trip. It is heartening to see how they are exposed to art at an early age.

There's one more masterpiece in the hall - a statue of the Winged Victory done by National Artist Guillermo Tolentino. It's a lady I know only too well -- the original stands at the top of the obelisk
of Bonifacio in Monumento, a place that I passed nearly everyday when I was growing up.

The two massive paintings do not need any other kind of setting than the wide beige expanse
of the Session Hall.
But as I walked through the rest of the rooms and galleries, I noticed that each was painted in a distinctive hue -- one that perfectly complemented the artworks displayed inside.

The first thing I noticed when I entered the vermillion room housing the Fine Arts Collection of the Museum was this wooden statue of my amigo, Santiago -- here in his full Matamoro fierceness.

Aside from his statue, a marvellous retablo or side altar from Bohol is also on display. The machuca tiles in checkerboard pattern are reminiscent of old spanish churches.

From vermillion hues, the next room was painted a bright, blazing red. This room is called the Gallery of the Via Crucis with 14 paintings on wood of the Stations of the Cross.
Done by an unknown Boholano painter, the paintings look so European, it's hard to think that a Filipino painted them. The walls match the red colours of Christ's garments in the paintings.

These are part of the collection of the Bangko Sentral ng Pilipinas (Philippine Central Bank).

More paintings belonging to the collection are displayed in the next room -- now painted a deep emerald green. All of the paintings show religious themes -- scenes from the Bible, various saints and martyrs, several lovely renditions of Our Lady and a smattering of bishops and friars.

My eagle eye spots Amigo Santiago here called Santiago de Galicia, which of course brings back memories of the Camino de Santiago.

The museum's corridors, painted a cool salmon are lined with various sculptures.

It was on this first visit (I would return a few weeks later) that I discovered the genius of a little known (well, at least to me) artist named Isabelo Tampinco. A contemporary of the more well known painters like Luna, et al he was a remarkably prolific and versatile sculptor -- making not just statues but even furniture and decorative pieces and of course, ecclesiastical art.
You can find examples of Tampinco's work in the Manila Cathedral and on the molave door of the Sto. Domingo Church.

I fell in love with his many sculptures displayed in the Museum's collection. They were exquisite pieces that would not have looked out of place in any museum or church abroad.

I was impressed by Tampinco's classically themed pieces but it was his sculptures of Filipino women that completely captivated me and made me a forever fan.

An entire gallery is dedicated to our National Hero, Dr. Jose Rizal. With off white walls and wide windows that look out onto the busy street, the room contains statues, busts, paintings and other memorabilia on display.

I had never seen Jose Rizal in profile -- this portrait is by Fernando Amorsolo, one of our most
noted Philippine painters.

It was poignant to see this small prayer book that Rizal had left as his final gift to Josephine Bracken. It is inscribed to his "dearest and unhappy wife".

The second floor of the Museum is devoted to all the Masters. A gallery celebrates the work of
Juan Luna, perhaps the most famous son of Badoc, Ilocos Norte -- if you discount his brother, the general of course.
The walls of the Luna Room are painted a bright pink -- I think Luna would have approved.

Next to the Spoliarium, this is probably Luna's second most famous work -- the portrait of his wife, Paz Pardo de Tavera. The rosary she clasps in her hands makes this look like a funerary portrait but of course she is not dead -- at least not yet.

There is wit and humour in Luna's studies of Parisian life.

Thankfully there were cameras at the turn of the century. In the Luna room is this huge photo of the master in his studio.

Sharing the same gallery is Luna's contemporary and in my mind, the painter that is most often mentioned in the same breath. Felix Resurreccion Hidalgo was two years older than Luna

and they were both in Paris to study and paint at the same time.

Hidalgo's paintings in the museum show scenes from his life in France.

These scenes of Brittany are beautiful and I must say I cannot understand why people have to argue about who is the better artist between the two -- why compare at all?

Warm, golden yellow walls in the next room hold portraits of presidents, government officials and society ladies. My very favourite one is a painting by Ramon Peralta of a Filipina in an elegant violet terno. There is something about her that reminds me of my maternal grandmother, who I never met, but who has a photo showing her in a similar pose and attire.

Apart from his bucolic scenes of life in the barrio, Fernando Amorsolo painted many presidential portraits. This is Manuel Roxas, the fifth president of the Philippines.

It must have been de rigueur to sit for an Amorsolo portrait if you belonged to a certain level of Philippine society.

I can almost imagine that Amorsolo had just stepped out for a bit -- perhaps to smoke, perhaps to stretch his legs --- as I stood looking at this recreation of his studio, with furniture and brushes that
he actually used. I waited for a while but he didn't come back.

The galleries on the third floor showcase modernist works. The corridors are painted in a neutral, cool oatmeal shade, the better to balance off the colours of the various paintings on display.
I love how the wide wooden planks have a warm patina -- and I wonder who walked these halls before -- surely a number of senators and perhaps even some presidents?

One of my favourite "modern" painters is the National Artist Vicente Manansala. His cubist
avantgarde style is something I can relate to and understand even if my personal preferences lean towards the realists and impressionists.

Manansala's brushes are preserved and displayed in the room along with his paintings.

A separate gallery is solely for his murals which are on loan from Philamlife.
I remember how I would always enjoy viewing these whenever I visited the old Philamlife building in Manila to watch a concert or a performance. The building has since been closed down and sold.
I'm happy the murals are on loan to the National Museum so they can be appreciated by a new and younger generation.

I was lucky to catch the retrospective of the paintings of the realist, Agustin Goy spanning sixty

years of his career. A Chinoy from Binondo, Mr. Goy counted Vicente Manansala as his mentor.

The showstopper for me was this utterly serene and majestic ox obviously taking a break from hauling around his covered cart. I loved the detail and the light that practically infused the animal's skin with a soft glow.

This water-colour of Marikina is another of my favourites from the retrospective. The moss green hues of the walls complemented the verdant hues of the landscape.

Another favourite was the teal blue room containing the works of E.Aguilar Cruz, also known as Abe, -- artist, journalist, diplomat, gourmet, and bon vivant. Mr. Cruz's sketches and paintings, his letters, books and other memorabilia have been donated by his family to the Museum.

Stationed in Paris as a diplomat, Abe's watercolors and sketches of his life in my favourite city bring back many happy memories. My special favourite shows the bouquinistes -- the booksellers that line the sidewalks along the Seine. The Notre Dame cathedral is a shadowy but recognisable figure in the background.

This pen and ink sketch of a couple of elderly Parisians poring over -- books? pastries? fruits? -- is just delightful and perfectly captures a scene that is so familiar in the streets of Paris.

My visit to The National Museum was a vivid experience -- with different shades of reds, pink,
greens, blues and yellows exploding in my mind -- and I'm just talking about the colours of the walls!
Come and visit and be dazzled by the varied hues of the genius and spirit of the Filipino as an artist.

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A Happy Meal at Happy Delicious Kitchen in Binondo

April 19, 2017, 1:14 am

≫ Next: Ajisoo Japanese / Korean restaurant -- a valuable find at the Cartimar Market

≪ Previous: The many colours of our National Museum

In Binondo on a weekday shopping errand, I decided to look for a restaurant that I had not been to before. Luckily, I stumbled on to a real find.

At the corner of Salazar and Benavidez streets is Happy Delicious Kitchen, with a name like that, how could I resist?

It was lunchtime when I walked in. While it would not win any awards for decor or ambience,
it was clean and only mouthwatering food smells wafted through the air-conditioned interiors.
Most of the business must be from take out orders as there were no tables, only counter seating around the restaurant.

While I had yet to taste the food, the prices were more than enough to make me happy -- for three viands on your plate plus rice, you pay only P180. For bigger eaters (present company included), four items on the plate plus rice is just P210.

It's turo-turo / cafeteria style at the Kitchen. There are more than 20 metal pans with all kinds of hot dishes -- meat, seafood and even a few which are vegetarian friendly. Everything looks freshly cooked and made with high quality ingredients -- certainly not your ordinary turo-turo place.

If you're still unable to make up your mind, at the end of the counter is a table with some more choices -- machang, siomai or how about some cuapao? The fresh lumpia is assembled right behind the counter.

On the other end is this "carving" station where cured meats like pork asado, ham hocks and sausages beckon enticingly. While it is mostly for take out orders, they will cut you a few slices if you want to eat it there.

If you are thinking that I ordered a kilo of pork asado to wolf down by myself -- well let me disabuse you of that thought. My choices were quite healthy. Clockwise from the top of the plate ...

stewed tofu, seaweed salad (tart and really good!), fish cakes and yuba skin sautéed with tausi.

It all tasted of home cooked goodness.

Happy Delicious Kitchen definitely lived up to its name and promise!

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Ajisoo Japanese / Korean restaurant -- a valuable find at the Cartimar Market

May 9, 2017, 4:37 am

≫ Next: The Amigos' Lucena and Lucban Pre-Pahiyas Excursion -- with a verdant lunch at Isabelito's Garden

≪ Previous: A Happy Meal at Happy Delicious Kitchen in Binondo

When I was growing up, Cartimar Market in Pasay City was synonymous with expensive imported goods. Today, it is more known for its many pet stores, bicycle shops and a high quality wet market. These past years, it is also where Japanese and Korean restaurants source their authentic, hard to find ingredients and supplies.

A number of these groceries and mini-marts can be found all in a row on one side of the market. Right beside them are a few restaurants serving a mix of both Japanese and Korean dishes.
One such place is Ajisoo -- located right alongside the row of food stores. After shopping, you can drop by for a casual, appetising meal.

Ajisoo is a simple, no-frills place -- it's clean and the tables are set comfortably apart from each other.

On this hot day, I was glad their air conditioner was operating at full blast.

Ajisoo is both a Japanese and a Korean restaurant. Kim bob or korean sushi is offered right beside California maki. The prices were surprisingly affordable -- which made me want to order just about everything on the menu.

The bento boxes were particularly attractive -- complete with soup and sides, you could have one for as low as P145.

While there are offerings from both cuisines, I noticed a slight skew towards Korean food. There were also noodle dishes -- I can't imagine how they could sell udon for just one hundred pesos.

What a great deal!

We finally settled on our orders. The California maki came on a large platter and had twelve generous slices -- I couldn't help myself and had two before I remembered to take the photo.

The chef was liberal with the tobiko (fish roe) and the kani slices were fat and firm.

The mango was sun ripened sweet and the smudge of mayonnaise, Kewpie-smooth and creamy.

I ordered the bibimbap which came sizzling on a stone plate. The egg was perfectly fried, the beef was tender and the vegetables were crisp and well seasoned. The kimchi was definitely home made and one of the best I had ever tasted. I mixed everything with a large dollop of the piquant gochujang

the ubiquitous Korean chili paste.

We also ordered a sashimi bento that came with six firm and fresh slices of tuna and salmon, plus

a small salad of julienned cabbage with a drizzle of more Kewpie mayonnaise. There were two pieces of a garlicky gyoza, a spoonful of potato salad and some vegetables steamed with sesame oil .

This bento set cost just P195 -- how can you say no to that?

While there are no desserts offered, a small freezer by the cashier is well stocked with Korean ice cream bars. You are more than welcome to browse and reach in for your choice.

This chocolate ice cream sandwich was light and the cake was spongy and not too sweet.

Best of all, it was just P45!

From appetiser to entree to dessert, this place is truly well worth a visit.

After a shopping spree at Cartimar Market, you'll have more than enough left over for an honest-to- goodness Japanese / Korean meal at Ajisoo.

Anyeong haseyo! Irrashai mase!

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The Amigos' Lucena and Lucban Pre-Pahiyas Excursion -- with a verdant lunch at Isabelito's Garden

May 10, 2017, 5:30 am

≫ Next: On foot and on the road in hidden Japan - the Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage

≪ Previous: Ajisoo Japanese / Korean restaurant -- a valuable find at the Cartimar Market

Pahiyas in Lucban, Quezon is a colourful celebration of a bountiful harvest and is one of the most famous and oldest festivals in the Philippines. In honour of San Isidro Labrador it is held every

year, without fail, on May 15.

Because of its popularity, the traffic and thick crowds have made it so difficult to attend Pahiyas.

When the Amigos were planning a quick, day trip to Quezon, we decided that a week before
May 15 would be the perfect time to go and enjoy the town amidst relative peace and quiet.

We left Manila very early to make it just in time for breakfast at Jay's family's home in Lucena,

two towns before Lucban.

It's convenient to have one of Lucena's best restaurants located right across the house.
We had pre-ordered breakfast from Luisa and Daughter and it was a quite a spread -- garlic fried rice

and eggs plus longganisang Lucban (Lucban sausages), tender beef tapa (marinated beef), daing

na bangus (seasoned milkfish) and the restaurant's very own homemade bangus (milkfish) sardines.

I tried hard not to indulge, as lunch in Lucban was scheduled for just a couple of hours later. However, it was a losing battle. Thank you to my sister- in -law Vivian for her warm hospitality and for arranging this delicious meal!

After tarrying over breakfast and conversation, there was a bit of time left for some photos

around the house.

Our Jesuit Amigo posed before this bas relief of the mountains of Monserrat. This was sculpted by my very creative and artistic father-in-law more than 50 years ago. He made six of these all along
the concrete wall depicting places in Spain that he and my mother-in-law visited as part of their travels.

One last photo of the Amigos before we got back on the road to Lucban. The tile mosaic behind us depicts Nuestra Señora de Esperanza, Patroness of Seville.

It was almost noon when we got to Lucban and the first stop was the beautiful stone church of

San Luis Obispo, in my mind one of the country's best preserved old Spanish churches.

First established at the turn of the 16th century, the church has been destroyed and rebuilt a few times.

This beautiful weathered structure dates back to the 18th century, its most recent reconstruction.

The beautifully weathered Amigos in front of it are of a more recent edition, dating back to the
20th century.

From the church, we headed to our lunch destination -- just a hundred or so meters

away. I stumbled upon this place on my last solo foray to Lucban and was just so taken with it

that I knew I had to come back -- preferably with friends that I could share this delightful place
with. It's easy to find ... take the road that leads out from the church and walk a few blocks till
you see the sign for Deveza Farm.

Inside this farm right in the centre of town is a lovely little place called Isabelito's Garden.
A small house in middle of a bromeliad nursery has been converted into a rustic restaurant.

The first time I walked through the flowers and the lush greenery, I was captivated.

I remember that I found this place on a hot summer day but the temperature seemed

to drop a few degrees because I was surrounded by so much foliage.

In the evenings this wooden bench must be a lovely place to sit and enjoy an ice cold beer. But for now, the sun is too hot so we all headed for the cool indoors.

Isabelito's is completely alluring -- it is impossible not to be taken in by its unpretentious charms.

I had made reservations a week ahead so we were seated in the main dining area. Isabelito's is not
a very big restaurant but an annex off on one side, closer to the bromeliad nursery can easily handle more guests or even a private party.

Since we had eaten breakfast barely two hours ago, we resolved that we would eat "light".
Not too much, just enough to sample some of the specialties that Isabelito's offers.
This Thai inspired mango salad was tart but had a surprising kick, particularly if you happened to bite into a small piece of bird's eye chili, cleverly hidden amidst the green mango strips.

Isabelito's Garden is not strong on fish or seafood but quite heavy on pork and beef entrees.
One of the few "healthy" dishes on offer is this sinigang na bangus sa miso (milkfish sinigang with miso) which was refreshingly sour.
Did you know that sinigang is one of the best dishes to have on a hot day?
The spicy-sour soup makes you perspire, thus helping bring your body temperature down.

I completely forgot about taking photos before people dug in so please excuse the messy shot of this Pancit Lucban -- an enhanced version of the local habhab.

Using the same miki noodles that the humble habhab is made with, Isabelito's version has been piled high with pork slices, bits of longganisa, string beans and chicken liver.

In addition to this, we also ordered the Crunchy Bicol Express, which was very tasty and made with crackling pork slices cooked in coconut cream -- so malinamnam (tasty) but oh so unhealthy.

Forgetting that we had vowed not to eat too much, we also ordered Isabelito's Kare Kare, that came with thinly sliced crisp fried liempo (pork belly) instead of the usual ox tail and tripe.

Both dishes did not survive long enough for me to take any photos -- mea culpa.

After that LDL-laden lunch, we tried to cram ourselves into this hanging wooden "frame" -- perhaps we had gained a kilo or two from all the fatty goodness since we could barely squeeze ourselves in.

We needed to walk off some calories so I took the Amigos on a short detour to my favourite panaderia. I can never go to Lucban without stopping at Pavino's Bakery. Their thin, melt-in-your-mouth apas cookies are second to none.

We were lucky that the owner, Ms. Josie Pascua was minding the store. She very graciously let us in behind the sales counter for a souvenir photo.
Do you see the multi-colored leaf-shaped kiping or rice crackers hanging on top of us -- these are what houses in Lucban will be festooned with on Pahiyas.
But don't think of it as just decor, kiping is very much edible -- when grilled and dusted with sugar, it makes a sweet, crunchy snack.

Lucban is well known for its native hats -- in all colours, designs and shapes, they are the best way to fend off the scorching rays of summer. Just a week before Pahiyas, vendors had set up their attractive wares in the streets -- how could we not stop and buy?

Where did the time go? Before we knew it, it was almost mid afternoon and the Amigos had other places to go and people to see ...

I would have wanted to take them on a more extensive tour of Lucban -- to walk through the small streets, see the heritage houses, drop in on an indie coffee shop or two but we had to go back to Manila.
Short but sweet, I think the pre-Pahiyas excursion gave the Amigos a glimpse of the small town pleasures of Lucban, ahead of the fiesta chaos and crowds.

Parini ulit sa Lucban, Amigos!

Thanks to Jay for some of the photos used in this post and of course for welcoming us all into their Lucena home.

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