2017 -- my year in Adventures, Misadventures and oh yes ... food!

February 3, 2018, 3:34 am

≫ Next: Nagoya in 24 Hours Part 1 - A night at the (Meitetsu) Inn

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A year is measured not in hours and days but in the memorable events that happened in one's life. 

I had quite a few exciting turns in 2017 but let's not get ahead of the story ... 

January 

The New York Times recently published an article about making friends in one's 30s and 40s.
NYT calls friends made later in life as KOFs or kind-of-friends.  That sounds a bit nebulous to me as it seems like you can't make up your mind whether they're your friends or not. 

I prefer to think of them as SIFs or special interest friends.  I have quite a lot them and they continue to enrich and bring joy into my life.  

January brought many instances of meet-ups with my SIFs. Nothing like reunions to give a warm start to the new year.  

I worked with these ladies for the better part of nearly 15 years! 

Sometimes you get really lucky and friends of friends become friends too!

SIFs can span different ages and generations.

The NYT says that our strongest ties are made in our teens and 20s.  My college buddies definitely fit that definition. 

The end of January ushered in the Chinese New Year and (hopefully) the start of a new tradition ... 

our college batch mates from Xavier High School hosted a festive chinese dinner where food, 

wine and memories flowed freely.  Gong hei fat choi!

February

2017 was the year of the Rooster and I found a fine looking specimen (please don't tell me that is a hen!) at Agustin Goy's retrospective at the National Museum.

A day at the National Museum is a day well spent.   The repository of our nation's art is an architectural masterpiece by itself.   The old Senate building which houses our artistic and cultural treasures echoes a more dignified and statesmanlike time in our national politics. 

Juan Luna is widely acknowledged as the Philippines' maestro and the museum has an entire hall dedicated to his works.  Of course his most famous obra, the Spoliarium is the biggest draw.

I had never heard of the sculptor Isabelo Tampinco until I saw his amazing pieces at the Museum.  

A contemporary of Luna and Hidalgo, his versatile artistry must have been eclipsed by the huge shadow these two painters cast.    I have been converted to a forever fan.

March

While 2017 was the year of the Rooster it was also the year of the new horse.  Our 4 year old mare Elsa gave birth to a foal promptly named Rosie by Martina who hopefully can saddle her up for a ride one of these days. 

One of my favourite places to visit is Lucban. When I am in Lucena, I always try to sneak away by myself, after all Lucban is  just a 40 minute jeepney ride away.  This quaint historical town has managed to retain much of its charm, despite the encroachment of certain aspects of modern commercialism.

On this particular visit, I was lucky to stumble in to Isabelito's Garden, a  pleasant and picture
pretty restaurant hidden in one of Lucban's side streets. 

The path to this oasis of calm is lined with lush greenery.  After enjoying the Lucbanin specialties you can even buy some potted bromeliads and other flowering plants to take home.

I was content though just to sit and enjoy the afternoon with my ice cold bottle of beer.

Closer to home, another joyful food discovery was Happy Delicious Kitchen, a most appropriately named cafeteria of sorts in Binondo.

Trays and trays of home cooked dishes using fresh ingredients are laid out for choice.  It's a take-away place frequented by locals and office workers in the area but has a few counter seats for the occasional dine-in customers like me.

Our three labs, Rebus, Travis and Nero sadly crossed the rainbow bridge in 2013 and 2016.
While I knew how lively and exuberant labrador retrievers are, I still could not resist bringing another one into our life.  We picked up two month old Clancy from the breeder and he was so calm and 

well behaved  on the way home.  This was not to last though ...

I later realised that perhaps acquiring a lab puppy after you've turned 60 is not exactly the best or the wisest thing to do.  But we did have some peaceful times ... mostly when Clancy fell asleep.

April 

Summer in Tagaytay is no longer as cool as it used to be,  but it is still a few degrees better that staying in Manila. 

We spent Holy Week in Highlands, feeling just a bit guilty about spending so much "unholy" time in the pool.

A visit from a balikbayan friend led to a discovery of a modest but authentic Japanese restaurant, hidden in the tangled streets of Quezon City. The atmosphere was something straight out of vintage, small town Japan.

The handmade soba noodles were fresh and delightfully chewy -- I ordered a tousled coil of cold noodles, perfect on such a warm summer noon.

This little gem is called Zaan Tea House and is owned by a Japanese lady, who brings her homespun inventiveness to the dishes on the menu.  Above is her take on the traditional onigiri where she uses mountain rice enveloped in nori packets and mixed with all kinds of interesting delicious stuff --
I ordered the cheese onigiri which was really good. 

I was so happy to see my favourite -- warabimochi. Paired with a glass of (strong!) ice cold matcha tea, it's a dessert you normally do not find in other local Japanese restaurants. 

The owner/chef was very kind to step out of the kitchen for a photo.  She mentioned that the restaurant also serves as an informal gathering place of Japanese exchange students from around the area and I can imagine that her warm, motherly ways dearly reminds them of home.

By the end April, Clancy had added quite a few pounds and was turning into a ball of playful energy. He was literally getting to be too much to handle. 

May

May 15 is Pahiyas in Lucban and the town's biggest festival.  It is also perhaps the worst time to visit.  To give the Amigos a taste of Pahiyas, I invited them a week early.   Lunch at Isabelito's Garden was a picture perfect experience.

We did some pasalubong shopping at my favourite bakery, Pavino's and were warmly welcomed by the owner, Ms Josie.

Pre-Pahiyas without the traffic and the crowds -- a fun Sunday spent with the Amigos. 

  

  

2017's big adventure also happened in May.  After a year of planning, Jay and I finally fulfilled a long held wish -- to trek the Kumano Kodo, an ancient Shinto pilgrimage in the mountainous region of the Kii Peninsula. 

My body and I were not quite prepared for the rigours of the trek -- hiking straight up mountain slopes through loose rocks and stones and tree roots.

But the five day trek yielded priceless rewards such as breathtaking views that we woke up to ....

Magnificent cultural landmarks such as the largest concrete torii in the world, rising seemingly like a mirage in the middle of green rice fields ...

An overnight stay in one of the most quaint and oldest onsen towns that I had been to ....

With a scorching hot dip in the blue medicinal waters of the only onsen that is a designated UNESCOworld heritage site ...

Of course the highlight and the goal of the pilgrimage was to pay homage to the three Kumano Grand Shrines ....   Hongu Taisha

Hayatama Taisha ... 

and Nachi Taisha.

The Kumano Kodo along with the Camino de Santiago is the only other pilgrimage route that is recognised as a UNESCO world heritage site. Because we had also walked the Camino and completed the minimum requirement in 2015, we earned a double pilgrim status after our Kumano Kodo trek.  

For this non fit, on-again-off-again "trekker", the double pilgrim certificate was certainly a remarkable achievement! 

After the Shinto pilgrimage, I brought some of our friends to experience the unique atmosphere of staying in a centuries old Buddhist temple, a shukubo at Mt.  Koya.  This sacred mountain is my favourite place in all of Japan -- a temple stay is just what I need to refresh and recharge my spirits.

Since this was our friends' first time to visit Japan,  dinner at the singularly excellent Takumi Gion Shirakawa was a delicious way to try the high art of Kyoto kaiseki ryori.  

And to make their trip even more memorable, we had Chieko san, one of the best guides in Kyoto
to bring us around.

After our friends left to go back home,  Jay and I indulged in one of our favourite pastimes -- combing the flea markets for one-of-a-kind finds.

And at Nishiki Market, I finally succumbed and bought myself a beautiful santoku or multi purpose knife at Aritsugu, one of Japan's oldest knife makers.  Seeing them engrave my name on it (written in Japanese) made it even more special!

After two weeks of traipsing around Wakayama and Kyoto, it was time to head back.  Time to start planning the next Japanese adventure perhaps?

June 

Every June, the Nanagas clan has a reunion in Lucban.  I hadn't really attended in many many years but this year, I did.  It was lovely to see the fire trees in full bloom along the Eco Tourism road that links Batangas to Quezon province.

The reunion is held during the feast of the Sacred Heart. This beautiful statue  belongs to the family and is brought out for a special mass and a procession along the streets of Lucban every June.

One of the things I most look forward to when I visit Quezon is the array of native kakanin that we 

all enjoyed for merienda.  My number one favourite is the pilipit ... sticky rice blended with sweet pumpkin and coated with a coconut caramel sauce!

July

To paraphrase Hemingway,  Japan is always a good idea.  I flew back in July to meet up with friends, this time flying to Nagoya via Hong Kong. I enjoy the stopover since it gives me a chance to enjoy some much missed rice rolls while waiting for my connecting flight.

I had never been to Nagoya even if the city's most famous manufacturer had been my client for so many years.  I had less than 24 hours  before I took the shinkansen to Tokyo so I had to make the most of my time.

Food cramming leads to food coma!  I managed to try two of Nagoya's iconic dishes in one evening.  An appetiser of spicy tebasaki from an award winning restaurant ....

And for my main course, I transferred to another very popular spot to try the hitsamabushi -- eel cooked Nagoya style and enjoyed in three delicious ways!  

Before I headed to Tokyo the next morning, I made sure I visited a shrine and a temple.
Atsuta Jingu is one Japan's important shinto shrines and was a lovely green place in the middle of the city.

After the shrine visit,  I think that Kobo Daishi himself led me to Osu Kannon temple, where the main statue of the goddess of mercy is said to have been carved by him.  The temple also has an extensive library and numerous works of art that are designated as national treasures.

Right outside the temple is a network of inter connected shotengai or shopping arcades -- my kind of mall!  It was all I could do to tear myself away since I still had a train to catch.

But first -- must have lunch!  I had another Nagoya specialty I needed to try before I finally ended my very quick layover.  And I knew just where I had to enjoy it.  Yabaton serves the best misokatsu in Nagoya and luckily for me, they had a branch right by Nagoya Station. The long lines were daunting but being a solo diner, I was waved right in and seated at the counter.  

This is Yabaton's miso katsu -- deep fried tender pork cutlet smothered in a savoury miso sauce.  Umai desu yo!

It was a pleasant surprise to know that my server Mercy was a fellow Filipina who has lived in Nagoya for more than twenty years.  Pinoy hospitality and kindness plus the best misokatsu in Nagoya ... a most memorable combination!

All too soon, it was time to catch the shinkansen to Tokyo where I would spend the next few days. The quick taste of Nagoya would hopefully be just a foretaste of more to come ... I'll make sure to come back soon!

When in Tokyo, my favourite hotel is Park Hotel in Shiodome where I try to stay each time.
The elegant quiet atmosphere is a respite from the full-on sensory assault that Tokyo brings. 

The travel gods smiled at me again -- I was upgraded to the 34th floor where all the rooms are done by famous contemporary artists.  This is my room called "Haiku"where my bed was framed with masses of lotus blooms painted by the artist Rieko Fujinami. 

Fujinami san's painting of koi in different colours, swimming through the four seasons was projected as a continuous video on my wall.  Instead of turning on the t.v. it was infinitely more relaxing to just sit there and contemplate this for hours.    Perhaps even come up with a haiku or two.

Much as I wanted to stay in my artistic cocoon, I had to step out to meet my friends. The main purpose of the trip was a reunion with my ex colleagues from Southeast Asia.  This would be the first time to see them all again after my retirement.

We've gone through ups and downs, shared turmoils and successes but our friendship just grew stronger through the years.  It was such a delight to see them all again.

On a separate note, a visit to Tokyo is never complete without seeing my ex Japanese expats.  

I'm happy that Niikura san was able to have breakfast with me at the hotel before he left for another busy working day.

My dear gourmet friend Abe san continues to amaze me with his thoughtfulness and exquisite taste.  This time,  his special treat was a soba kaiseki dinner at a Michelin recommended restaurant in the Kagurazaka area.

In between all the dinners and lunches, there was time to spend on quite a bit of shopping.

But most of the time, I  ate ....

And ate ....

And then ate some more!

The grand plan is to meet up regularly, while we all still can.  What a wonderful reunion! 

Jaa mata ne!

Kobo Daishi was with me on this solo trip.  After leading me to Osu Kannon in Nagoya to see the statue that he had carved,  I like to believe that he again "brought" me to  Nishi Arai, in East Tokyo where his statue is prominently displayed at the Nishi Arai Daishi Soji temple.

It was a sunny and hot summer day but the greenery surrounding the temple helped ease the searing heat.

Another gift from Kobo Daishi -- the day I visited Daishi Soji was also the day of the temple's annual furin or wind chime market.  All kinds of lovely chimes in all shapes, sizes and materials tinkled merrily as I walked through the temple grounds. Jay and I have been collecting Japanese furin for as long as we have been visiting Japan so this market was such a special surprise. 

This trip was all about seeing new places and reconnecting with old friends.  I had just enough time for some more reunions.  I met my goddaughter who I had not seen since she was 12!  She's now a lovely young lady working as an english teacher in Tokyo.

I also met up with a young friend's fiancee who teaches kindergarten in Setagaya.  Meeting these young people certainly made me feel a whole lot younger myself.

Before I left Tokyo, I made one last stop to see a famous temple -- Sengakuji is just a few minutes' cab ride from the hotel.

The place is famous because it is where the 47 Ako ronin are buried.  The real life story of  loyalty and revenge is probably the most well known samurai tale and it was both fascinating and quite moving to visit their grave site. 

All too soon, I was back in Nagoya airport to catch the flight  to Manila. It was a quick 6 day trip but certainly crammed from end to end with happy memories. 

August

Some of the best trips are those that are unplanned.  In August, free time just fell into place and along with two of my best friends from college, we took off for a 2 night girls' getaway to Bohol where one friend owns a luxury resort.  

After landing, our first stop was the public market to see my suki Grace at her dried fish stall for some daing shopping. 

From the palengke, it was on to another local favourite -- Abdul's Sinugba. We could not resist the deep fried crunchy chicharon bulaklak... definitely worth its weight lipitor!

For dinner, we decided to go upmarket and savour Spanish cuisine at Tomar, the tapas and drinks bar at Amorita, one of the best 5 star resorts not just in Bohol but in the whole Philippines. 

The seafood paella was deliciously decadent -- savoury rice black from squid ink, topped with the freshest catch from the waters off Panglao beach.

We were housed in just one of Amorita's two premier 2-bedroom villas.  Each villa has its own lap pool, the ideal place to just drift the afternoon away.

The next morning, I walked up and down the nearly deserted white sands of Alona Beach, stopping for a mid morning coffee and honey ice cream at the Buzz Cafe.

What a relaxing interlude!  Thank you my dear friend, shall we do this again soon?

September

September marked the start of another semester of teaching at the Ateneo. It's always nostalgic to walk through the campus even if the place looks so different from when I was a student there,
40 + years ago.

At 8 months old, our yellow lab Clancy had grown to a 72 pound bundle of strong energy.
While he looks quite innocent and helpless here, he unfortunately caused my one big misadventure
of the year.

Somehow cake makes everything better.  The misadventure with Clancy cost me a humeral fracture on my right arm, which I had to keep immobilised for 6 weeks.  I also ended up with a few staples on my head but thankfully, no concussion.  Considering the accident that happened,  I still think I'm so lucky to have gotten off as lightly as I did.

October

The accident and the sling did not stop me from teaching my once a week class at the Ateneo. 

I roped Jay in as my temporary teaching assistant and he helped me all through the time my right arm was in a sling.

I couldn't stay idle while I was recovering so I learned how to cook using my left hand.  Somehow this baked spaghetti "cake" turned out just as I hoped it would.

I finally used my japanese cast iron skillet to make sukiyaki.  I like to think that it added some authenticity to my dish. 

November

Balikbayan season started a bit early when close college friends came for a visit from Canada. 

It was a great excuse to spend the day in Tagaytay -- feasting on Pinoy classics like bulalo, lechon and fried tawilis at Balay Dako.

It would have been nice to walk off all the calories ingested but instead we drove to Highlands for a post luncheon coffee ... and of course, a slice of cake.  All in all, a wonderful day spent in the company of old and dear friends. 

December 

I could not quite believe another year had almost passed but yes, it was December and my birthday once again.  Like last year, Jay drove me to Manaoag so I could properly give thanks for all the blessings in my life.

From Manaoag it was a short drive up to Baguio City where we had not been in over ten years.  Mario's, an old favourite was our first lunch stop and thankfully, it had retained its homey charm.

Our home for the week-end was Elizabeth Hotel, tucked away along Gibraltar Road. It was a lovely place to stay and convenient to exploring most of the city by walking or by taking the jeep or the cab. Traffic in Baguio is just as bad as Manila so we left the car in the parking lot as often as we could.

We had a corner room with a big balcony and the views across pine trees reminded me of a  Baguio long gone -- now, commercialisation and over development have set in.

On this trip, I discovered  tapuy -- a Cordillera  alcoholic drink made from fermented rice.  Perhaps 

it is the local version of sake. Tapuy is deceptively sweet and mild tasting but packs quite a kick!  

A glass of tapuy was the perfect way to celebrate my birthday.

When we could tear ourselves away from the comforts of our suite at Hotel Elizabeth, we  ventured to familiar parts.  Session Road is as bustling as ever, but with bumper to bumper traffic.  Sadly most of the old stores and local restaurants had either closed or moved making way for chain stores and fast food joints.

All too soon, our week-end trip was over and it was time to head back to the lowlands.  Thank you Baguio -- I hope it won't take another 10 years before I see you again!

A few days later, my birthday celebration continued with a food tour to Marikina City -- where my friends and I sampled the homespun authentic Thai recipes at Moo Baan.

They have one of the best pad thai I have ever tasted -- simple yet bursting with genuine flavours, as if it had just been cooked off the streets of Bangkok!

Moo Baan is owned by the sister of a nephew-in-law so we enjoyed her warm and gracious hospitality.

What is a birthday celebration without cake?  We sampled three at (appropriately named) Chubbie's along Marikina's famous food destination, Lilac Street and came away feeling very much full and satisfied!

We ended the year with a trip to Tagaytay where we discovered a new decadent, artery bursting

restaurant called Ribchon.

As the name promises, Ribchon's speciality is lechon ribs, served roasted or fried.  These ribs are lip -smackingly and heart attack inducingly good.  A full slab of ribs is just right for 4 people.

Great food brings out the smiles from everyone!  Ribchon is definitely worth the drive to Tagaytay. 

We spent the last few days of the year enjoying the cool climate at Highlands, staying in our favourite Cowboy Cabins which look out on to the surrounding tree covered mountains.  There are a variety of indigenous birds that fly around and birdwatching was a pleasurable way to while the lazy hours away.

When in Highlands, Martina never fails to pay a  daily visit to the zoo where she hangs out with 

her animal friends.

And of course a daily horse ride around the paddock is the other highlight of her day. Spending time with family, relaxing and doing the things we love was the best way to wind down the year. 

Blogging had been severely affected by my misadventure in September.  It was hard to type with just one hand.  So, I am sorry that this post is at least a month late.  

However it's never too late to wish everyone love and light this 2018!  

May it be a good year for all of us!

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Nagoya in 24 Hours Part 1 - A night at the (Meitetsu) Inn

February 8, 2018, 2:31 am

≫ Next: Nagoya in 24 Hours Part 2 - Tasting Tebasaki at Izakaya Tsuruhachi

≪ Previous: 2017 -- my year in Adventures, Misadventures and oh yes ... food!

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Full disclaimer ... the next few posts are much delayed from July of 2017 -- my accident in September absolutely put a stop to my blogging so I am hoping to catch up now.  

I did a quick trip to Tokyo last summer, flying in not to Narita or Haneda but to Nagoya, a city 

over an hour away by bullet train from Tokyo.  

I had never been to Nagoya and with a 24 hour layover before I zoomed off to Tokyo, I hoped to scratch a tiny bit of the surface ... enjoy a local specialty or two, see a temple or a shrine, buy a few souvenirs.   The clock started to count down the hours,  the minute I set foot in the city.
The pressure was on!

For convenience , I decided to stay around Nagoya Station.  Like any major train station in Japan,
it is a massive block of restaurants, office buildings, department stores and all kinds of shops.  

I had booked a room at the Meitetsu Inn Nagoyaeki Shinkansenguchi.  Meitetsu is the private 

railway company of Nagoya and they have hotels all around the city and even a couple in Tokyo.

There are three Meitetsu hotels in the perimeter of Nagoya Station and the one I chose was a
5 minute walk to the shinkansen terminal. 

The hotel is quite impressive,  strikingly modern with a sleek and stylish facade. 

The spare and uncluttered entrance hallway has a few benches for guests and visitors. 

The lobby design is contemporary and minimalist.  Touches of blue break the overall beige and
cream interiors.

I was given a room on the 7th floor.  The streamlined look is carried all throughout the hotel.

Meitetsu Inn is a business hotel and as these go in Japan, the standard rooms are comfortable but definitely compact. The absence of a closet saves space and clothes are hung on the bar in the hallway.

The room may be small but the welcoming touches are all there -- including a comfortable pair of room slippers.

The three sided folding mirror above the small desk is a practical touch.

A small drawer holds the coffee maker, plain white ceramic mugs and the complimentary tea and coffee bags.

For guests traveling without their devices,  Meitetsu Inn has an in-room tablet that you can use 

to access the hotel's free wifi.  Again, such a functional and convenient room amenity. 

I almost did not see the tiny refrigerator as it was cleverly disguised as a drawer.   It can hold  

a few bottles of soda or water (and yes, a candy bar or two!).

My room is called a "small double".  The bed is bigger than a twin bed but slightly smaller than a double bed --  two people would be a tight fit.  The flat screen t.v mounted on the wall makes for 

comfortable horizontal viewing. 

But what I really liked about this room was the floor to ceiling window located right at the foot of the bed.

This is the view from my bed.   Nagoya is the third largest city in Japan and the cityscape is quite dense with buildings as far as my eye could see.

The view was much better at night when all the lights turned on and Nagoya transformed into a brilliant city scene.  As I lay in bed,  it seemed that the entire city was literally at my feet!

I love Japanese bathrooms -- small in scale but everything fits and everything you need is in place.  

It was a pleasant surprise to see this traditional style bath normally found in Japanese homes.   

You sit on the stool and clean yourself thoroughly before enjoying a long relaxing soak in the hot bathwater.   I was impressed as the bath amenities were premium, high end Japanese brands.

The next morning,  I set my alarm for 6:00 a.m. (the better to get an early start on sightseeing).  

After a cup of refreshing matcha, I was ready to head out and see Nagoya.

There was no one in the elevator so time to indulge in a selfie!

The hotel does not have a dining area but guests can have breakfast and meals throughout the day 

at Tonkatsu Matsuya which is right at the ground floor. 

You can choose from the menu and buy a ticket at the vending machine.  Hand your ticket at the counter and take a seat -- someone will bring your food to your table.

There were not too many people at 6:30 in the morning, my fellow diners were all hotel guests too. 

The door at the leftmost is the connecting door to the hotel lobby. 

I chose the western breakfast set -- good strong coffee, buttered toast, scrambled eggs, 

a sausage, the usual cabbage slaw plus  a small scoop of potato salad.  All this for just 500 yen! 

Enough to keep me going till the next meal.  

Thank you Meitetsu Inn for the hospitality and the warm introduction to Nagoya.   I will be back!

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Nagoya in 24 Hours Part 2 - Tasting Tebasaki at Izakaya Tsuruhachi

February 13, 2018, 10:15 pm

≫ Next: Nagoya in 24 Hours Part 3 - Hitsumabushi, eel in 3 ways at Maruya Honten , Nagoya Station

≪ Previous: Nagoya in 24 Hours Part 1 - A night at the (Meitetsu) Inn

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Solo travel has its rewards -- you can do anything you want without having to worry about anyone.  Years of traveling solo for business spoiled me for this luxury of "me time".  

On this solo 24 hour layover in Nagoya, I knew what I wanted to do ... cram as much of the city's iconic must-eat foods into my mouth!  

A little research on the plane led me to "tebasaki" -- spicy, deep fried chicken wings which the travel writer said was one of the not-to-be-missed dishes. 

Now, wings are my favourite part of the bird so I was eager to try Nagoya's version. 

Since my hotel was very near Nagoya Station, I wasted no time after checking in -- I immediately headed out to look for a tebasaki place.   

There are always many good restaurants around the major train stations as so many passengers come and go everyday.  

And true enough, just outside the shinkansen terminal I found Izakaya Tsuruhachi, with a gigantic photo of a tebasaki right on top of the entrance.  

What really attracted me to enter was the lighted blue sign by the entrance.  It announced that Tsuruhachi was the winner of the Gold Medal at the Tebasaki Summit of 2015! 

That clinched it -- I walked right in. 

As izakayas normally go, Tsuruhachi is quite compact,  just six small booths that stretched out to the back where the kitchen is. 

Since I was by myself, I sat at the counter which was almost full at 5 in the afternoon.  

My ice cold nama (draft) beer washed away the tiredness of airplane and train travel.     

Izakayas will usually charge you a "cover charge" called otoshi and in turn you are served small 

plates of hot or cold hor d oeuvres.  

The otoshi varies in price from 300 to 1,000 yen depending on the type of establishment you're in. 

Some foreigners get quite upset about otoshi since they think it's a hidden cost  tacked on to their bill.  

But think of it as the equivalent of the table charge that restaurants in Italy also add to the cost of your meal.  

Of course I ordered tebasaki, which was what I really came to Tsuruhachi for.  One order  of 

four wings costs 380 yen.  

Only the flat portion of the wing is served, the drumette is not included.

The tebasaki was deep fried and well seasoned. A sprinkling of sesame seeds added to the crunch 

and flavour.  From crisp skin down to the bone, it was as the japanese would enthusiastically say "umai desu yo!" Or as we Pinoys would say it "sarap to the bones!"(with apologies to Max's). 

Tebasaki is chili-hot but not palate numbing. They have  an umami spicy tang that makes you want 

to eat more and more. 

You cannot eat tebasaki with chopsticks, definitely not.  The only thing to do is to grasp each wing and try to get as much of the skin and meat as you can.  

The friendly server who handed my order pantomimed that I should eat it all in one bite!  

Looking around I could see my seat mates doing just that -- grab a chicken wing, put in mouth and voila ... only the clean bones came out. 

But I think that is a skill that comes only after you have consumed a mountain of chicken wings.

Hardly any english is spoken in the izakaya and there is no english menu.  You don't need one as 

all you have to do is point at the picture and smile.  The language of food needs no translation. 

For my next order of  beer, I was contemplating on having another round of tebasaki  but opted 

for the grilled pork slices instead.  They tasted (and looked like)  Canadian bacon.  

Served with mayo and mustard on the side, they were good otsumami or pulutan (snacks to go with beer) but my taste buds and stomach were muttering that I  really should have just ordered another plate of tebasaki. 

I stayed at the counter for quite some time,  enjoying my beer(s),  the good food and the convivial  atmosphere of Izakaya Tsuruhachi. 

I was quite surprised to come out into a darkened street -- good food makes me lose all sense of time.

But the night was still young and chicken wings don't necessarily count as a meal do they? 

So onward to dinner and the next iconic Nagoya specialty! 

Nagoya in 24 Hours Part 3 - Hitsumabushi, eel in 3 ways at Maruya Honten , Nagoya Station

February 14, 2018, 4:49 am

≫ Next: Nagoya in 24 Hours Part 4 - I visited Atsuta Jingu, a Shinto shrine and found Kobo Daishi

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Before I flew off to Nagoya, I emailed my long time gourmet friend Abe san and asked for recommendations on local specialties.   He wrote back to say that a grilled eel dish called hitsumabushi was definitely the must-try.

After grazing on tebasaki at Izakaya Tsuruhachi (see previous post), I was now ready for the main event -- dinner.
I went to Nagoya Station since I knew there would be a food area somewhere inside.
This is Umaimon Dori -- umai means yummy and dori means street so I am guessing it somehow translates to Yummy Street.
All the big train stations in Japan have sections like this where restaurants, coffee shops and food sellers can be found.  Nagoya Station has more than one food area -- there's another in the basement and a slightly more premium one in the higher floors.
But Umaimon Dori is the most convenient, specially for those just getting off or on the bullet train.

The lighted sign showed some of the different cafes and restaurants available -- a few izakayas, a soba place, a  ramen restaurant,  a pastry shop, a Chinese restaurant and (shudder) Starbucks and (double shudder) Mcdonalds. 
As a saving grace,  there was also an eel restaurant, and  famous for hitsumabushi at that!

This is the entrance to a branch of Maruya Honten set inside Umaimon Dori.  Maruya Honten is one of the best hitsumabushi restaurants in Nagoya and is rated very highly in all the food sites and blogs.
Because it was past 8 p.m. the evening crowd had come and gone so I was promptly led to a table.

I was not as hungry as I usually am (I blame the tebasaki and the beer) so I opted for the smallest order that consists of  half an eel and cost a little over 2,000 yen.
The regular sized order contains a whole eel while the larger portion for bigger appetites (and bigger budgets) comes with an eel and a half.

Abe san had vaguely told me how to eat hitsumabushi, differently from unadon which is  the usual grilled eel on top of rice.
Maruya Honten has the instructions on the full hitsumabushi experience printed on the back of its menu complete with english translations.  
As I waited for my food, I took the time to read them carefully.

My order arrived after a few minutes and it certainly looked more substantial than just half an eel.  The eel is served on top of rice in a wooden barrel.
The set tray comes with miso soup, the requisite tsukemono or pickles and small dishes containing various  condiments.   The small foil packet contains nori strips.

Here's the step-by-step guide to enjoy hitsumabushi in three ways.
First, break up and mix the eel and rice together.  Take a small portion and put it in your bowl and enjoy.   This tasted just like unadon  --  grilled eel basted with a teriyaki type sauce, served on top of rice.

For the second way, the different condiments come into play --  wasabi, chopped green onion,  thinly sliced blue perilla leaves and nori strips.

Refill your bowl with a bit more of eel and rice and top with as little or as much of the condiments as you like.  I loved the minty, citrusy taste of the perilla leaves which added a refreshing and light note to the grilled eel. 

The waitstaff unobtrusively walk around and once they see you are well in to your second bowl, they come over with a small pot of hot, very light dashi or broth which is used in the third way of eating this unique Nagoyan dish.

Adding more eel, rice and condiments on your bowl,  pour on the broth to create something like  an eel o-chazuke (rice with soup).    While o-chazuke is one of the few Japanese dishes  I do not enjoy, I was surprised to find myself liking this hitsumabushi version. 

This is how my rice bowl with eel and broth looked like.   As you can see, the rice and eel kept their texture and consistency and did not turn into a sludgy porridge.

Finally, if you  have some eel and rice and condiments left,  the last step in finishing your  hitsumabushi is to go back and have it the way that you liked the best.  

I preferred the second way -- eel and rice enhanced with the wasabi, onions and perilla leaves and topped with the last of the thin, crisp nori.   The condiments are refilled for free so don't be shy and ask for some more if you need it. 

It was so good I ate it all ... down to the last grain of soft sticky rice.

After eating,  you bring your bill (discreetly tucked under your tray) to the counter outside where you pay.  If you feel like enjoying Maruya Honten's famous grilled eel at home or if you're heading somewhere and want to give it as omiyage or souvenir, you can buy boxes for take out.

Maruya Honten closes at 10 p.m. and I just barely made the last order.  I walked the few hundred meters back to my hotel with the bright lights of Nagoya Station all lit up behind me.

There were still many people in the streets and  inside the coffee shops and bars around the station.  A few of the big electronic stores were still open.  

But no more coffee or shopping for me tonight.  

I was replete and satisfied.  Onaka ga ippai, in more ways than one.  

It was a foodie evening to remember, on my first and only night in Nagoya City. 

Gochisousama deshita!

Nagoya in 24 Hours Part 4 - I visited Atsuta Jingu, a Shinto shrine and found Kobo Daishi

February 15, 2018, 4:42 am

≫ Next: Nagoya in 24 hours Part 5 - The Osu Kannon Temple and Kobo Daishi

≪ Previous: Nagoya in 24 Hours Part 3 - Hitsumabushi, eel in 3 ways at Maruya Honten , Nagoya Station

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On the plane on my way to my first visit to Nagoya, I opened a guidebook and started to read about the city (cramming was more like it). 

One thing that stood out was that one of the top recommended local attractions was a major Shinto shrine,  Atsuta Jingu.  

Sugoi desu yo!  Shrines and temples are some of my favourite places to walk through.  

I enjoy their serene and spiritual spaces. 

I did not realise when I set out to see Atsuta Jingu, that not only would I see an important shrine, 

I would also be "tracing" the footsteps of my favourite Buddhist saint, Kobo Daishi.

Atsuta Jingu  in the southern part of Nagoya is easily reached via subway or train.  I took

the Meitetsu Limited Express train from Nagoya Station, the same line that goes all the way 

to Nagoya Centrair Airport.  Just two stops later, I was at the Meitetsu Jingumae station, just a few minutes walk from the shrine.

At the crosswalk, I came upon this monk with his begging bowl.  It isn't very common to see monks begging in the streets in Japan. To give alms  is considered an act of virtue so I dropped some coins in his bowl.  He bowed and started to chant some sutras.  I could hear his soft voice even as I walked away. 

This being July, the weather was hot and quite humid.   I was happy to see many trees in the shrine grounds, I would at least have some respite from the sun's rays.

The shrine occupies a sizeable acreage with the buildings spread out over spacious grounds.

I walked through the gate under the shade of countless trees.  The traffic noise from the road quickly evaporated and  even the temperature seemed to drop by a few degrees.  

  

One of the first buildings I saw was the Amulet Office where visitors can arrange for Shinto services, buy tokens, charms, souvenirs and amulets.  This is also where I got my goshuincho or temple and shrine seal book inscribed by a shrine priest.  

This is an ema -- a wooden plaque commonly sold in shrines and temples.  You can write your prayers or wishes on the ema and hang it on specially made racks in the shrine grounds.  

Each temple or shrine has a specific design for its ema, usually the symbol of the place itself.

This is the front or the exterior gate of the main shrine of Atsuta Jingu.  Ordinary visitors cannot 

go beyond this point.  The deity enshrined within is Amaterasu, the Sun Goddess. 

Atsuta Jingu dates way back to the first century.   The shrine buildings look new because  Shinto tradition dictates that major shrines are dismantled and rebuilt every 25 years.  

After the  Ise shrine in Mie (which I had also visited a few years ago)  Atsuta Jingu is the second largest Shinto shrine in Japan.

This is the door to the main shrine or the Hongu,  about 100 meters from where visitors stand.  

No one is allowed through those doors except for very select Shinto priests and sometimes some members of the royal family.   

However, ceremonies are conducted in the grounds in front of the Hongu.   You can see the Shinto priests in white on the right side performing prayers and rituals. 

The Hongu houses one of Japan's three major imperial regalia, a sword called the Kusanagi no Tsuragi. The presence of this treasure makes Atsuta Jingu one of the three most important shrines 

in Japan. 

I took a walk through the shrine grounds, bowing in front before passing through a massive wooden torii. When walking through the torii, remember not to walk in the middle but walk only along the sides.  The middle path is reserved for the kami or gods.

It was a quiet weekday morning and not too many people were walking around.  In the distance you can see the faint outline of another torii, there are three in the shrine grounds.

A long panel of posters shows the shrine's history and significant events.  Sadly everything is in Japanese, I would have wanted to know more about the place.

You will most likely see these large sake barrels stacked on top of each other at Shinto shrines.  Mostly decorative, these barrels are donated by brewers and serve as some sort of advertising for their brands.  But mainly, sake barrels are present in shrines because sake is the drink of the gods.

This giant camphor tree is protected by a wooden fence and encircled by shimenawa from which shide are hung.  Shimenawa is a straw rope used in purification rituals.  They also denote a sacred 

and holy place.  This ancient camphor tree is said to have been planted by the great Buddhist saint, Kobo Daishi 1,300 years ago!  

I was happily surprised and moved to find Kobo Daishi's presence here in Nagoya. 

Past the sacred camphor tree is this modern building.  This is the  Bunka-den.  

It is the Treasure Hall, a museum for all the valuable artefacts of the shrine. Many of these items 

are designated Important Cultural Assets  and are on display for the people to view and appreciate.

This giant stone lantern seems to have been swallowed up by the surrounding shrubbery.  This is 

the Sakuma-doro stone lantern, another important landmark in Atsuta Jingu's grounds.

If you turn off the main path and walk a bit deeper into the woods, you will find a small stone bridge spanning one of the many streams that meander through Atsuta Jingu.   

Called the Nijugocho Bashi, it is built with 25 stones and is the oldest stone bridge in Nagoya.  

To preserve this centuries old bridge, it is no longer used except perhaps for important ceremonies and festivals.

Crossing the stream, I came upon this blissful scene ...  lush greenery around a sun dappled pond 

complete with a lovely wooden pavilion that seemed to float above the water.    

Ducks floated lazily and several turtles were sunbathing on a large rock.  

I saw a stone bench and sat down on the cool surface.  I stayed for as long as I could, enjoying 

this grace filled moment -- saying a quiet prayer of thanks to the kami sama of Atsuta Jingu and 

of course, to Kobo Daishi. 

Nagoya in 24 hours Part 5 - The Osu Kannon Temple and Kobo Daishi

February 16, 2018, 4:30 pm

≫ Next: Nagoya in 24 Hours Part 6 - Shotengai Overload at the Osu Shopping Streets

≪ Previous: Nagoya in 24 Hours Part 4 - I visited Atsuta Jingu, a Shinto shrine and found Kobo Daishi

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Having accomplished one shrine visit, I left Atsuta Jingu to head for Osu Kannon, a local temple belonging to the Shingon sect of Buddhism. 

This is the sect that Kobo Daishi, my favourite Buddhist saint founded in the 9th century. 

I had read that he was said to have carved the temple's main statue of the goddess of mercy,  

Kannon and I was not about to miss a chance to see it.  It seemed that on this trip, I kept "running into"Kobo Daishi.  Perhaps I was not travelling solo at all. 

Since I had to be in Tokyo by mid afternoon, the fastest way and most convenient way to get from southern Nagoya to Osu in the eastern part of the city,  was by cab.  Vowing to make budget slashes elsewhere on the trip,   I hopped  into a waiting cab and gave the driver my (distant) destination.

The taxi driver took me right to the front of the temple, at the bright orange Deva Gate.  

Tokugawa Ieyasu himself chose this site for the temple,  moving it here in the 17th century from its original location.   The earliest temple buildings were destroyed by floods and wars so the current buildings that you see were reconstructed in the 1900s.  

    

Two fierce, warrior  looking statues flank each side of the gate.  These are the Deva Kings -- 

tasked by Buddha as guardians of the earth -- protecting us all from evil and malevolent spirits.  

It's comforting to see them still on the job.                   

There are a number of buildings in the temple grounds -- this is the Main Hall, the Daihiden where you can see the the goddess of mercy Kannon on the altar.  Below the Daihiden is the

ShinpukujiBunko Library where over 15,000 ancient Japanese and Chinese texts are kept, 

some of them are National Treasures. 

I climbed the stone staircase of the Daihiden to view the statue of Kannon.  Before entering the hall, I lit some incense sticks from the fire in a large brass urn as an offering to the goddess of mercy.

Osu Kannon is very popular in Nagoya. One of the reasons may be the famous wooden statue of Kannon said to have been carved by Kobo Daishi himself.

This morning, worshippers were praying at the altar when I arrived.  Unfortunately, photos were 

not allowed inside the hall. 

The statue of the goddess of mercy is placed in the middle of an ornate altar and is not very big.  

It is a beautiful depiction of Kannon showing her serene and kind face.  

The statue stands on a lotus flower and is flanked by more giant gold lotus blooms.   

The lotus is a symbol of purity in Buddhism. 

Kobo Daishi says that even in muddy waters, a lovely flower like the lotus can flourish.  

Thus, he exhorts us to strive to be virtuous even while surrounded by the dross of daily life. 

After praying to Kannon and  Kobo Daishi, I headed down to the temple office where I was able to get my goshuincho inscribed with the temple's seal. It is a printed keepsake of finding Kobo Daishi, seemingly everywhere,  on this trip to Nagoya. 

      

Nagoya in 24 Hours Part 6 - Shotengai Overload at the Osu Shopping Streets

February 28, 2018, 1:11 am

≫ Next: Nagoya in 24 Hours Part 7 - Misokatsu at Yabaton. Saving the best bite for last.

≪ Previous: Nagoya in 24 hours Part 5 - The Osu Kannon Temple and Kobo Daishi

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On this 24 hour stopover in Nagoya, I inadvertently stumbled into one of my favourite places ... a shotengai or covered shopping street.  

More than a block or two long,  Nagoya's Osu Shopping district consists of a network of several streets, pure bliss to a shotengai addict like myself. 

You can have your air conditioned malls and super shopping centres -- give me a traditional, quaint shotengai every time!

One of the main entrances to the Osu shotengai is right outside the Osu Kannon Temple.
This is Nioumon street.
Do you see the fierce face on the wall on the top left of this photo?  He must be the the defender of the shotengai -- to make sure that everyone who enters parts with some of their money and leaves it behind in one of the stores.

This friendly little poodle was all decked out in a vest -- just like his owner, the shopkeeper.

I wonder if he gives out discounts?

It was just past 10 in the morning and some of the stores had not yet opened.  

I browsed through stores selling senbei or rice crackers and other traditional snacks ...

and specialty shops like this one that made various types of bean stuffed pastries. 

Small stores like this selling various sundries from  hosiery to shampoo to tonics seem like a throwback to another shopping era.

"Brand" shops like this can be found all over Japan.   You can find pre-loved name brand purses and luggage at a fraction of the cost.  The Japanese are some of the world's top shoppers of high end luxury  brands and quickly turn over last season's it bag for this season's must have.  Their discards, still quite new looking find their way to these discount stores.

Japanese of a certain age have a penchant for hats -- whether male or female, they wear them at all seasons of the year.  The hat shop is an ubiquitous feature in the shotengai. 

Looking for summer yukatas or traditional coats -- there are stores selling all kinds for all types of styles and budgets.

For bargains and pasalubong, the 100 yen store is always a good idea.  

There are all sorts of cute-but-useless items not to mention your everyday mundane useful stuff inside.

The owner of this bag shop was a very persuasive old lady -- I should know because I ended up buying a small sling bag when I stopped to just look at her displays.  

There is a Christian chapel tucked in between the various storefronts.  If I hadn't glanced up I would not have noticed the cross.

The church was running an art exhibit with proceeds going towards its various projects.

At the end of the block is more of the shotengai.  If you turn left or right, there are more stores all along the side streets.  The Osu shopping district has more than 1,000 shops, cafes and restaurants to choose from -- shop till you drop in Nagoya!

This portion of the shotengai takes you from small local boutiques to shops with a more "international" flavour --  Italian pizza and Istanbul coffee are  right across from each other.

There is a bazaar selling halal food items, souvenirs and middle eastern dry goods. 

What would be right next to the halal shop but a kebab place?

This Vietnamese restaurant advertises its pho and those delicious baguette sandwiches, the banh mi. 

This is truly the global food area ... how about some Brazilian cuisine? The chicken spinning on the rotisserie gave off such tempting smells. 

If you're up for a  bossa nova beat, you can linger at Pukio where you can even learn to play 

Latin music.  The llamas are friendly too.

You can also indulge in Indian and Nepalese fare served in a restaurant appropriately called Inpal. 

While cars are free to pass on the side streets surrounding the shotengai, the covered areas are pedestrian only thoroughfares with a few delivery vehicles allowed in.  Watch out for the bikes though as the residents bring their mamachari bikes when they go shopping. 

At the end of the street is Fureai Plaza with a huge statue of the maneki neko, 

the "waving" cat that is a symbol of luck and good fortune.  Come in to the shotengai, it seems 

to say.  Come in and leave your fortune behind in the many stores inside.

I ran away from the maneki neko before he could beckon more money from my wallet and found myself in Banshoji street, another  part of the Osu Shopping district.

The stores here were larger and  featured well known Japanese brands.  I missed the slow paced vintage feel of Nioumon Street, with its quaint, old-fashioned stores. 

Looking for shoes?  You can always find something at ABC Mart, the mega shoe chain found everywhere in Japan.

It was nearly lunchtime and more shoppers had arrived.  Shotengai cater basically to locals so you 

are generally spared the jostling, pushy mobs of foreign tourists buying everything they can get their hands on.

The are contemporary everyday fashion along Banshoji street. There are vintage clothing shops 

and even some stores that are branches of well known shops in Tokyo. 

More shops loomed ahead and I could have gone on and on but I had to get back to Nagoya 

station to catch the shinkansen to Tokyo.  I would have to explore Shintenchi street some other time. 

Good bye for now, Osu Shopping District  -- certainly the biggest shotengai I  had ever seen in Japan. 

P.S.

The Osu shotengai is well signposted and laid out in an orderly grid.  You may lose yourself in the shopping but you will certainly not get lost.  Here's a map of the area that I got from http://inbound.nagoya-osu.com/customize_image/map.pdf.  

Happy shopping!

Nagoya in 24 Hours Part 7 - Misokatsu at Yabaton. Saving the best bite for last.

March 5, 2018, 6:41 pm

≫ Next: Restoran Garuda -- A Taste of Indonesian Cuisine

≪ Previous: Nagoya in 24 Hours Part 6 - Shotengai Overload at the Osu Shopping Streets

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So far on this (barely) 24 hour stopover in Nagoya, I had managed to enjoy two of the city's iconic dishes -- the can't-stop-at-one spicy tebasaki and the luxurious hitsumabushi.  With just over an hour to spare before I boarded the shinkansen to Tokyo, I decided to throw caution to the winds and go for my last bite of a Nagoya classic, their very own version of tonkatsu -- the differently, distinctively  delicious misokatsu. 

In Nagoya, there is only place to go for misokatsu, Yabaton.  "D' original" as we Pinoys would call it,  Yabaton has been in business for as long as I have lived ... hmm, figure that one out, ha!
There are branches all over the city and even a couple in Tokyo and Fukuoka.
I headed for the one on the 9th floor of the Meitetsu Department store, right beside the train station.  My heart sank when I saw the long queue snaking around the storefront,  would I not be able feed
at the source of misokatsu today? 

Just at the entrance is Yabaton's piggy mascot, decked out in ceremonial garb and pointing his hooves towards the open door .  I imagined him squealing  "Irrashaimase"in a most appealing piggy voice. 

I glanced nervously at my watch but I had fallen under Piggy-san's spell.  I took my place at
the end of the line anticipating that I would literally have to eat and run.  

At that precise moment, one of the restaurant staff started to go down the line asking how many diners were in each group.  When I said "hitotsu" (one), she waved me to the head of the line and
into the hallowed doors of Yabaton. Oh the perks of being a solo diner!

Was I dreaming or did Piggy-san give me a wink as I walked by? 

All the tables were occupied by the lunchtime crowd.  No one seemed to be speaking to each other, they were all hunched over their plates of misokatsu, and as far as I could tell, had all been transported to some sort of hog heaven.

Solo diners are seated at the counter and I slid into the last remaining seat.   My neighbours were either salarymen on lunch break or commuters, grabbing a quick bite before taking the train to their next destination.

Yabaton's menu shows the many variations of misokatsu -- as donburi, as cutlet, with rossu (loin) or hire (fillet), as kushikatsu (skewers).  There's even a sizzling misokatsu!
How is misokatsu different from tonkatsu?  Misokatsu uses miso as a sauce for the katsu.  In Nagoya, they use a red soybean and ferment it in wooden casks for months  until it develops a depth of flavour that is singularly delicious.   

Yabaton's misokatsu are liberally slathered with the red or aka-miso sauce which gives the cutlet a brownish reddish gloss.  I'd use it as lip moisturiser any time!

My counter seat gave me a ringside view of the kitchen.  Serving plates and bowls were on the ready, to be filled with customers' orders.  As this branch is so near a train station and office buildings, there are no leisurely diners here -- the cooks move with precision and efficiency and turnover during rush dining periods is quick.  

Unfortunately, being seated at the counter also gave me a whiff of each plate of misokatsu that came from the kitchen.  How much longer would I have to wait for mine?

Yatto! Finally my order arrived!  This is the Waraji Tonkatsu,  a JUMBO rossu (loin) cutlet that is the specialty of the house.
Yes, it is indeed huge.  When I ordered this, the helpful waitress sucked in her breath and wondered aloud if I would be able to finish it.  
One steely look from me and she murmured "wakarimashita". 

She did linger a bit to suggest that I order the half-and-half : half with miso sauce and the other half with regular tonkatsu sauce.
She explained that red miso sauce, while utterly divine, may be an acquired taste for some, particularly for first timers.  A half-and-half order is a safe and sure bet. 

The Waraji Tonkatsu set comes with rice, miso soup and a small dish of crunchy bits which are the leavings from the bottom of the pan that fries the pork.  
You can eat this as an appetiser with your beer or sprinkle on top of your rice for an even more indulgent eating experience.

Itadakimasu!

The perfect side dish to the unrelentingly umami rich taste of misokatsu is gari or pickled young ginger.  Its tart and pungent bite is an effective counterpoint to the lush flavour of the aka-miso sauce.

I definitely enjoyed the unique taste of aka-miso.  The rossu  was tender and had just the right amount of melt-in-your-mouth fat.   The crisp coating held up well to the thick sauce.  It kept its texture and did not disintegrate into crumbs.
Aka-miso found its way into the nooks and crevices of the crust, making for crunchy miso-filled scrumptious bites.  

The portion of my katsu with the usual tonkatsu sauce was delicious but the half doused with Yabaton's aka-miso was the obvious star of the show.

My waitress' fears were unfounded.    I finished every bit of the Waraji Jumbo rossu pork cutlet on my plate.  My stomach is definitely bigger than my eyes.

Surprise, surprise!  You'll find a friendly and hardworking Filipina everywhere you go.   This is Mercy,  Yabaton's  helpful and charming waitress.  She has been living in Japan for over 20 years. My misokatsu experience was made even more special by this chance encounter with her.  

Maraming salamat Mercy, gochisousama deshita!

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Restoran Garuda -- A Taste of Indonesian Cuisine

March 5, 2018, 10:32 pm

≫ Next: CCFJ Delight Restaurant -- authentic Malaysian comfort food

≪ Previous: Nagoya in 24 Hours Part 7 - Misokatsu at Yabaton. Saving the best bite for last.

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Southeast Asian cuisine is unique, delicious and has so many connections to Filipino food that 

it's a wonder not too many restaurants in the metropolis specialise in them.  

Thai and Vietnamese restaurants are quite popular but there are too few Malaysian,Indonesian or  Singaporean restaurants. 

There are some dishes like satay and nasi goreng that have crept into local menus but there is a lot more to the cuisine than that.

Late last year, I stumbled into Restoran Garuda, an Indonesian chain restaurant located  across the Indonesian Embassy.  I've come back a number of times to enjoy a bit of Indonesia in Makati. 

I was excited to order the gado gado, a typical Indonesian salad with blanched vegetables, fried tofu pieces, caramelised shallots and topped with gigantic pieces of fried krupuk.   It all came together very nicely with their homemade peanut sauce.

Satay is on the menu was well, with your choice of beef, chicken or for the vegetarians, there is tofusatay as well.  The chicken satay was nicely grilled with the chicken pieces remaining moist and juicy.

One of the best things on the menu is the martabak or murtabak, a fried thin puff pastry filled with your choice of topping -- beef, chicken or minced mushrooms.  Garuda's martabak is not at all oily and the puff pastry is light and crisp.  For an added spicy note, you can spoon some homemade curry sauce on top.  This martabak is as good as those  I've had from hawker places in Singapore and street food vendors in Indonesia. 

Garuda is a good place for vegetarians -- their bakwan sayur or fried vegetable fritters are listed as sides but an order contains generous pieces that are more than enough for a meal.  It's the Indonesian version of our very own fried ukoy. 

The other tasty dish at Garuda is  fried chicken topped with crisp coconut flakes.  The chicken is well seasoned and makes for an interesting and refreshing taste break from the usual western style fried chicken we are all so used to.

It wouldn't be right to eat in an Indonesian restaurant and not order the beef rending,  the quintessential national  dish.  

Cooked for a long time in coconut cream and spices, rendang is somewhat akin to our mechado, without the "gata".  You can spoon the sauce on your rice if you want to add hundreds of calories to your meal.  

While the rendang sauce was rich, spicy and coconut-creamy, the meat was not as tender as it should have been. 

This was my only "beef"with Garuda ... haha, see what I did there?  Wink wink.

If you are not dining as a group, Garuda has "value meals" like nasi goreng with a two  sticks of satay  and side dish of your choice.  

Or you can go for my favourite -- their Mee Goreng Pecel, pictured above.   

It's a savoury bowl of noodles sautéed with vegetables, shallots, your choice of chicken, beef or

just plain vegetables, and topped with a well fried egg and prawn krupuk.  

Mee Goreng Pecel comes smothered with  peanut sauce but I ask for it on the side so I can adjust the "peanut-ness" to my palate.

I guess Garuda's slogan says it all -- Live Life with a Bit of Spice!  Go ahead ... discover something different and have some Indonesian food next time you dine. 

CCFJ Delight Restaurant -- authentic Malaysian comfort food

March 6, 2018, 12:58 am

≫ Next: Cordillera Cuisine at Cafe Yagam in Baguio City

≪ Previous: Restoran Garuda -- A Taste of Indonesian Cuisine

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It took me quite a while to find CCFJ Delight -- it's at the corner of Dela Rosa and Washington 
streets,  at the new-ish Victoria deMakati building.   However, the restaurant is not readily visible as it is on the floor above street level.  I'm glad I did not give up searching for it as I would have missed out on discovering this tiny gem of Malaysian home cooked food. 

CCFJ is small with room for less than 30 diners.  The place is neat and completely unprepossessing.  The menu is written on blackboards above the window that looks into the kitchen. While the sign claims Asian fusion food,  it really offers more classic, everyday Malaysian dishes. 

We arrived for a late Saturday lunch and I noticed that apart from us, the rest of the crowd were  foreigners -- Malaysians,Singaporeans and Chinese.  

We started off with a bowl of Pork Noodles with soup.  This was recommended by the owner who happened to be sitting right next to our table.  

It came in a deep bowl filled with very generous amounts of both minced and sliced pork,
meatballs, chopped green onions and botchy.
If you're ordering other dishes, one bowl is more than good for two.
The pork broth was clear, light and clean tasting. If you want to heat things up a bit,
you can put a few drops of the chili soy sauce but use it sparingly as it really is hot!

There are a number of rice dishes but Jay opted for the Char Siew rice or barbecued pork rice.
Unlike the reddish,  sticky-sweet Hong Kong- style "asado", CCFJ's version hews closer to the
char siew you find in Singapore and Malaysia.
The pork is more salty-sweet and darker brown in hue, perhaps due to the use of sweet soy sauce.  The owner said this is their in-house  char siew recipe, made in their own kitchen.

Finally, the dish I had been waiting for ... nasi lemak!

Literally, it means "oily rice" and this very popular dish can be found all over Singapore and Malaysia. It was my go-to breakfast during those countless trips to Singapore for work.  

So, how did CCFJ's version fare?

It certainly brought back delicious memories of all those packets of nasi lemak that I had enjoyed. 

The rice was properly cooked in coconut milk, fragrant with the aroma of coconut and pandan leaf.  

Their homemade sambal sauce was spicy but not so that it burned the mouth and numbed all your taste buds.  It was the perfect foil to the lightly creamy rice.  

Fried dried anchovies and salted peanuts are meant to be eaten with each spoonful.  

This was the best nasi lemak I have had in Manila although I missed the otah -- the thin, grilled fish cake that traditionally comes with nasi lemak. 

The owner said they could not source the type of fish and spices used in making otah and decided that if they couldn't replicate the original taste, they would rather not serve it at all.  

A toast to the owners of CCFJ for their zeal in bringing only the true and authentic tastes of Malaysian comfort food to Manila. Martina enjoyed it as much as we did and we will certainly be back for more! 

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Cordillera Cuisine at Cafe Yagam in Baguio City

March 7, 2018, 6:38 pm

≫ Next: Lunch at The Chef's Home in Baguio City

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On a recent trip to Baguio, I saw with dismay how food courts and fast food chains had taken over the city.  Not wanting to waste calories and money on chicken, pizza or a frappucino, I headed off to find a local, independent restaurant -- hopefully one where I could also enjoy local flavours.

Serendipitously, I found one just 200 meters from where we were staying for the weekend.  

Cafe Yagam is along Felipe Rd. was just a hop and skip away from Hotel Elizabeth. 

The cafe is inside a renovated house.  The living room has been converted to a dining area where simple wooden tables are set comfortably apart.  Paperbacks are conveniently placed on bookshelves so that you can read while waiting for your order.

Not into reading?  How about doing some shopping while you wait?  Crafted by local weavers, 

these attractive bracelets, neckpieces, belts and coin purses make good souvenirs. 

Cafe Yagam bills itself as a coffee shop that serves Cordillera coffee and a few choice specialties.  

Of course for those who prefer safe, generic fare (yes, I am being judgemental here),  pasta, pizza and a sandwich or two are also on offer.

I love blood sausage --the Ilocano version is called penuneng while the Cordillera version is called pinuneg. Cafe Yagam serves pinuneg with a side of  mountain rice, a spicy sour vinegar dip and some chopped fresh greens.  

The blood sausage, fried to a crisp and almost bursting out of its casing, came on two metal skewers.  Like its Ilocano cousin (sibling?) pinuneg makes use of minced pork mixed with pig's blood.  

Unlike penuneng, pinuneg is mixed with rice so you get a texture of crunchy pork bits, soft pig's blood and dense and chewy rice.  Mixed with garlic and vinegar, it's delicious and definitely worth trying.

Jay ordered pinikpikan and I half expected the PETA police to suddenly materialise and haul him off in handcuffs.  

Pinikpikan is a classic and traditional Cordillera chicken soup  that tastes somewhat like the tagalog tinola.  

However, if Cafe Yagam cooked it the classic traditional way, it is a very cruel and inhumane way 

for a chicken to lose its life ... just for a bowl of soup.  

I shall not elaborate.  However way this dish was cooked, it was hearty, gingery, piquant and perfect for the chilly Baguio evening.

Since it was my birthday dinner (happy birthday to me!) I wanted to toast myself (since Jay cannot take alcohol) with the native liquor - tapuy.  

This is a smooth, sweet wine made from fermented rice and is the local drink in the Cordilleras. 

It reminds me of a slightly more robust and sweeter version of sake.

When drinking tapuy, remember that while it is sweet and easy to drink the alcohol content is 15%.  

I enjoyed Cafe Yagam's tapuy so much that I brought back two bottles to Manila. 

While I normally avoid coffee after dinner as it can keep me tossing and turning all night, I had to finish this genuine Cordillera meal with a cup of their mountain blend.  

The friendly and helpful waitstaff at Cafe Yagam talked about how arabica coffee beans are farmed 

in the Cordilleras and how difficult it can be for the farmers to get it to market.  

They also said there are now initiatives made by NGOs and cooperatives to make the coffee more available and give the farmers better prices for their crops. 

One sip of their coffee and I was hooked.  I ordered a medium roast/medium strength brew (they brew your cup to your specifications) and found it aromatic with sweetish, earthy notes.  

I asked if I could buy a couple of bags but was told that you have to order these a few weeks ahead.    

Surprisingly, the coffee was lighter than I thought it would be and did not give me a sleepless night.  Although that could have been due to the two glasses of tapuy that I enjoyed.

Coffee goes well with good company and conversation.  We lingered at Cafe Yagam long after we had emptied our coffee cups.  

When we left, a group of young people had taken over the front yard and someone had started a fire going in the outdoor fireplace.  

Sipping tapuy or coffee under the stars, with a fire to ward off Baguio's sweater weather ... what a nice idea!  We must try that next time we go back to Cafe Yagam.

Lunch at The Chef's Home in Baguio City

March 11, 2018, 7:34 pm

≫ Next: Exploring Cavite City -- The Advocates for Heritage Preservation Tour

≪ Previous: Cordillera Cuisine at Cafe Yagam in Baguio City

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Jay and  I had not been to Baguio in over ten years.  We visited in December and got a taste of the pre-holiday crowds.  The old tourist traps were even "trappier"than before.
The main thoroughfares were as traffic clogged as Manila's streets and Session Road had lost its relaxed vintage feel as fast food chains lined both sides of the street.
But there were some bright spots -- we enjoyed our stay at Hotel Elizabeth and found some delicious discoveries.

If you walk straight past Mansion House towards the road going to Mines View Park,
you will find The Chef's Home.
Well regarded in the Baguio food scene, it is owned by a Malaysian chef and serves an eclectic
mix of Southeast Asian dishes.

We called to check if we could come for a late lunch and were told they close at exactly 2 p.m. 

It's a quick 10 minute walk from the hotel and the lunchtime crowd had left by the time we arrived.

As the name implies, the ambience is cosy and homey.  You certainly get the feel that you really are in the chef's home.  At the entrance, a small stand of homemade sauces and pickles are not to be missed -- specially the cucumber and the chili pickles which were superb.

For appetizers, the smiling waitress suggested their fish tofu which was fried and served with their own chili sauce and lots of wansoy leaves.  This was my favourite -- flavourful cubes of tender fish blended with creamy tofu. 

For mains, we had chicken sate and  fresh snapper cooked in chili and garlic sauce.  Perfect for spooning over hot rice. 

We loved the food so much that the chef came out to say hello.  Here  he is posing beside the menu board which lists the daily specials.  The menu is changed frequently based on what is available and fresh in the market. 

However, if you are craving for something that is not listed, they would be happy to cook it for you 

as long as the ingredients are available in the kitchen.

The waitstaff were so friendly and charming.  We stayed past closing time but never felt that we 

were being rushed out of the place.  Next time we're in Baguio, we shall definitely take time to 

enjoy the warm hospitality at The Chef's Home once again. 

P.S The restaurant will be moving out of this location early 2018.  Please check for their new address if you plan to visit. 

Exploring Cavite City -- The Advocates for Heritage Preservation Tour

March 31, 2018, 8:38 am

≫ Next: Tokyo Tales Part 1 -- Ginza Lion reunion with my BFBDs (best friends beyond D....)

≪ Previous: Lunch at The Chef's Home in Baguio City

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Cavite City is just 35 kilometres from my doorstep and yet  it was not exactly on my radar until two years ago when I joined Clang Garcia's Food Holidays Tour of Cavite (https://porkintheroad.blogspot.com/2016/08/a-new-meaning-to-kkk-kasaysayan-at.html).  
Clang's whirlwind tour of some of Cavite's well known sites showed me there was a lot to see and discover.
A few weeks ago, I had the opportunity to learn more about Cavite -- albeit just Cavite City when we joined the AHP (Advocates for Heritage Preservation) tour.

The AHP is an interesting group of diverse yet like-minded individuals enthusiastic about local culture and heritage.  Seeing that maintenance and preservation of heritage sites like churches,  houses, public buildings, monuments, etc are not exactly high up on the list of the government's
(nor the citizenry's) priorities, the AHP does what it can to open up more eyes to the need to
conserve these irreplaceable parts of our past and patrimony.

The tour's first stop was St. Peter the Apostle Church, tucked away on one of Cavite City's  side streets.    Thank goodness for waze or we might not have found it. 

The original church built in the late 1500s was completely destroyed in the massive bombing of Cavite City in 1941.   This structure built in the 1980s is in a new location along P. Justo street.

St Peter's Church was constructed almost completely using repurposed old bricks, stones and wood

giving it that unmistakeable patina of Spanish churches of bygone years. The interiors have been 

kept simple and unadorned, save for the stained glass windows depicting the Stations of the Cross. These glass windows are in predominantly yellow and gold tones infusing the church in a soft warm light. 

The AHP always conducts its tours in coordination with members who are also native to the area.

The knowledge and perspective of these local "guides" are invaluable, giving guests  a deeper and richer sense of place.  

This tour was curated by true blue Caviteños, Bhel Esquierdo and Ige Ramos.  

At the start, Ige gave a short talk about  the history of St. Peter's church plus a briefing on the day's activities.

Since we had  left Manila at the break of dawn (okay, 6:00 a.m. but on a week-end!) I was particularly looking forward to the complimentary breakfast that the organisers had set up at the  church's patio.  Local businesses had their specialties for sale but also generously provided free samples of their products.  

The local bakery Roadside Breads and Burgers brought a giant basket of hot pan de sal -- each roll baked to brown crusty perfection.

The pan de sal went perfectly well with Big Ben's Imus Longganisa.   The owner, Gene Gutierrez 

had two bilao-fuls of the fat sausages which unfortunately ran out before I could snap a photo.  

Mr Gutierrez makes the longganisa from an old family recipe -- they are garlicky, slightly sweet and made with much less fat than other regional variants.

My hopes and prayers were answered!  On one table were trays upon trays of my favourite ensaimadas, bar none.  Baloy's Ensaimadas are the best on the entire planet but sadly, can only 

be bought from Baloy's Bakeshop in Cavite City.  

Mr Baloy had brought along boxes of ensaimadas which were completely sold out in minutes.  

The next stop  was just a few hundred meters away from the church.  This is the monument and shrine of Ladislao Diwa -- a familiar name from elementary history books.   This shrine also 

serves as a mausoleum as his bones have been laid to rest here.

The shrine is located in front of the  Diwa family compound.   Just behind it is the house where Ladislao Diwa lived  and which continues to be used by his descendants.    Thanks to the efforts of AHP's  local coordinators, we were allowed inside the gate and in some portions of the house. 

I was probably not paying attention during my Philippine history classes  as I did not recall knowing that Ladislao Diwa was one of the original founders of the Katipunan. This illustration hanging in the anteroom of the old house shows the original KKK triumvirate -- Bonifacio, Diwa and Teodoro Plata. 

Local food and culinary traditions are part of our heritage so after the visit to the Diwa Shrine, we headed off to the Cavite City Public Market -- to see, smell and yes,  taste  the many local delicacies.  While breakfast had just been served (and relished) an hour ago, we were more than ready to dive into what the palengke had to offer.

I had a bit of an (unfair) advantage.  I had visited the palengke before on the Food Holidays tour 

and knew that the place to go for delicious local fare was Aling Ika's Carinderia.  

Aling Ika has moved on to that glorious carinderia in the sky but  her daughter continues to cook and serve the dishes that her mother was known for.  Today, it is the oldest running carinderia in the market, dating back to the 1940s. 

While we were in the van on the way to the palengke, I told my van mates about Aling Ika so we all made a beeline for the carinderia the minute we arrived.  A smattering of other AHP members came much later on, only to find out that our motley group had wiped out all of Aling Ika's famous specialties.

The food at Aling Ika's is always consistently amazing but my two favourites are the unique,  slightly tart pancit puso and the crab torta filled with an unbelievably abundant amount of fresh crabmeat.  

If you want to taste these specialties,  you'll have to be at the market well before mid morning as these two dishes are the first they run out of.  

Yes we did -- we had the last two plates of pancit puso! Better luck next time!

Another previous discovery at the market was the quesillo or kesong puti. Aling Miriam who sits by the market entrance should be your quesillo suki. Because they are cooked with vinegar, the cheese can survive more than a few hours of travel -- I should know as the 10 packs that I bought were none the  worse for wear when I finally arrived home.

Just a quick ride from the market is San Roque Church.  This is a relatively new structure and is  quite massive -- you can actually see the dome and tower as you drive along Cavitex, the coastal highway connecting Metro Manila to Cavite.  

The church houses the miraculous, centuries-old image of the Virgen de la Soledad de Porta Vaga.  She is venerated on the small altar you see on the left side of this photo.  San Roque's statue, also centuries old and also attributed to be miraculous, is on the main altar on the bottom right hand side. 

I found this silver carroza in the shape of a seafaring vessel --  a nod perhaps to the local legend of  how the statue of the church's patron, San Roque came to Cavite.

 It is said that the statue originally came on a boat (possibly a galleon) and was unloaded while the boat was being repaired.  When they were ready to load him back on board, the statue became so heavy that they could not lift it up. And so San Roque stayed behind -- and continues to serve as protector and intercessor of the people of Cavite City.

One of the many things that  I liked about the AHP tour was the proximity of the various sites we visited.  A short drive away from San Roque church was the Monument to the 13 Martyrs or Trece Martires as they are more commonly known. 

A simple marker lists down  the names of the thirteen heroes.   Not all of them were Caviteños 

but all of them were executed in Plaza de Armas in Cavite by the Spanish authorities on September 12, 1896.  Their crime --  they were sympathisers of the  Katipunan.  Their execution happened just 

a few weeks after the start of the Philippine revolution. 

Right across the monument is a promenade facing the relatively clean waters of Bacoor Bay. 

Only a few fish pens mar the serenity of the view.

It was a good spot to gather everyone in our van -- all 11 of us, for a group photo.  The three of us who joined the tour together had never met any one in this group who obviously had been on quite a few AHP jaunts together.  Yet they were so friendly,  making us feel welcome and right at home. 

Nearby  is a spacious swath of greenery called Samonte Park.  The noonday heat was a bit too much to handle but I can imagine how popular this place is with local residents in the early morning and late afternoon hours. 

Situated in Samonte Park is this model of the church of the Virgen de la Soledad de Porta Vaga which originally stood on this piece of land.  Built in the late 1600s, it withstood damage from fires and earthquake but could not withstand the Japanese bombs that landed on the city on December 8, 1941 -- just a day after the attack on Pearl Harbor.

Cavite historian Ige Ramos said that eight Spanish era churches in Cavite City were completely destroyed on that day.  After the bombing,  only the bell tower of Santa Monica church remained standing -- you can find it on a side street, a few hundred meters from Samonte Park.  

It was interesting to see that an entire congested residential neighbourhood now surrounded 

the tower,  I had thought that such an important landmark would merit more judicious care.

The belfry of Santa Monica  Church survived the war and despite the less than ideal environment it now finds itself in, I have no doubt the bell tower will survive all these too.

We were so busy discovering all these heretofore unknown places that I did not notice that it was 

lunchtime.  Our convoy of vans and cars headed to  Tita A's Food Choices, where a proper and traditional Caviteño lunch was waiting for us. 

This lovely and very charming lady is the aforementioned Tita A.  We invaded their 

breezy and spacious 60's style home where tables had been set up all over the driveway and front yard. 

Despite the ensaimadas, the pan de sal and Imus longganisa that I had wolfed down for breakfast, not to mention Aling Ika's pancit puso and tortang alimango,  I found myself ravenous when Tita A's efficient and friendly servers laid these out on the table.  

Earlier Ige Ramos had said that lunch would feature the "tres marias" of a typical Cavite Sunday lunch ... adobong pula (cooked with atsuete),  kare kare and kilawing papaya. 

While you can no doubt identify the other two, the brown coloured dish in the foreground is the kilawing papaya -- easily my favourite (and new discovery) among the three.

Kilawing papaya is not atsara as you would easily think.  It is unripe papaya shredded and cooked in vinegar along with cow lungs and thinly sliced tripe.  While tripe is normally chewy, the pieces in this dish have been sliced paper thin so they just about melt in your mouth. 

To cool down, we had chinchao or chinchaw -- the Caviteño version of gulaman at sago.

What makes it different are the pieces of boiled glutinous rice cut into pellet shaped bits.  The pellets look like pasta noodles cut into small pieces but when you bite into them, the unmistakeable texture and taste of galapong comes through.

We tarried over lunch until we were all herded back into the vans for the next stop -- Fort San Felipe.

This is one place in Cavite where you can still see the remains of the walls built by the Spaniards in the 1600s.  

Does Fort San Felipe remind you of Intramuros?  Both were built for the same purpose -- to protect the strategically located Spanish forts from invaders and marauders. 

This part of the wall in the foreground forms part of Plaza de Armas where the Trece Martires were executed by musketry.  

Today, you can climb to the top of the wall and walk through stones that sentries of that era trod on.  And yes perhaps they also witnessed the execution from this vantage point. 

When you reach the top, there is a small building, not part of the original structure,  that functions as a mini museum of Philippine naval history.

The view from the top is of Cañacao Bay, a small inlet within Manila Bay.  You can also catch a glimpse of Sangley Point right across the waters.

Seeing and walking through these remains of the Spanish fort was certainly the highlight of today's tour. 

After walking around the walls on a scorching sunny afternoon, we saw this mamang sorbetero.

He gladly gave up his bell to me and  I was able to attract a good number of AHP members 

to come and buy his ice cream.    I have found my new calling, pun intended.

Our penultimate  stop was Sangley Point  currently jointly used by the various branches of the Philippine Armed Forces.  

To keep us from wandering all over the base, we were shepherded into a hall and shown a video presentation that traced the history of Sangley -- during colonial times, it was a trading post for Chinese merchants who were initially restricted entry into Manila.   Later on, it would become a 

base for American forces and would also be occupied by the Japanese during the war. 

This is the articulate  and knowledgeable lady lieutenant who gave us the briefing and is part of Sangley's communication team.  

There were a number of different aircraft on display.  The personnel assigned to our group were kind enough to assist those who wanted to get on board this military helicopter for a photo op.  

Instead of clambering on board, I decided to ask this Technical Sergeant to pose -- which he smilingly did. 

Sangley Point is where you can find the Danilo Atienza Air Base.  The end of the runway 

offers a panoramic view of Manila's skyline which is just on the other side of the bay.  

The last stop for the AHP Cavite City tour was this unobtrusive memorial to Julian Felipe. 

Born in Cavite City, Mr Felipe was a "musikero" and is most famous for having composed 

"Lupang Hinirang", the Philippine National Anthem.  

As a final activity and to pay homage to Julian Felipe and all the heroes born out of the fertile, revolutionary soil of Cavite, indefatigable patriot Ige Ramos requested us to stand and sing the National Anthem, right here at this monument.  

Was it the singing of  "Lupang Hinirang"that caused a lump in my throat?  Perhaps it was the late afternoon sun that shone in my eyes and caused them to tear up.  

It was definitely a most fitting way to bring the AHP Cavite City tour to a close.

P.S

I was told that this tour yielded a record number of 120 participants!  

Thank you to the AHP for a well organised and entertaining tour.  Thanks to their president, 

Tito Encarnacion who declared us members on the spot.  Thank you too to Johnson Bernardo who arranged for us to join this tour.

This photo of most of the tour participants was taken by Jonathan Hernandez and posted on the 

AHP Facebook page.  

If you want to know more about the AHP and their activities, you can find them on Facebook.  

NB  If there are any inaccuracies in this post, I must not have been paying attention again.  The fault is all mine!

Tokyo Tales Part 1 -- Ginza Lion reunion with my BFBDs (best friends beyond D....)

April 17, 2018, 12:50 am

≫ Next: Tokyo Tales Part 2 - Lining up for Luke's Lobster in Shibuya

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The best perks of my career were the work friends that I made.
Work friends usually start off as casual relationships among people thrown together by time
(at least 8 hours a day) and tension (budgets, requirements, client demands etc etc) but over time,
(or yes, on overtime usually) these relationships deepen and true and lasting friendships are forged. 

Aside from all the friends I made in the office, those that I  "struggled" with and laughed hysterically
with every day, I also made very good friends  within our regional network.
I saw these people regularly but not that frequently  yet we managed to form close alliances that
soon turned into strong bonds of friendship. We were confidantes, "co-conspirators", comrades in arms.
Our merry little band of four had not seen each other since I retired a couple of years ago so I was happy when our plans for a reunion  finally fell through.

We all converged in Tokyo some months ago.  Booked in different hotels, we agreed to meet up in our old happy hunting grounds, Ginza. 
Tokyo's premier shopping, eating and entertainment district is a short stroll away from our head office -- the bright lights were always an irresistible lure particularly after a long and tiring day of meetings and presentations.
For tonight's reunion, we headed to one of Tokyo's landmarks, the 100+ year old Ginza Lion Beer Hall.  
Sumimasen, in my excitement to meet my old friends I completely forgot to take a photo of the restaurant facade ... take my word for it, it's that lit yellow sign on the left side of the street. 

Ginza Lion opened in 1899 and is the grand daddy of beer halls in Japan.  You can see from this 

glass encased figure how its waiters used to look like -- spiffied up in western attire and carrying 

huge german style beer steins.  

As you enter the ground floor, you feel transported to a European beer garden.  Even the menu 

is western in orientation and would not look out of place at the Oktoberfest. 

Kanpai!  Thankfully the beer now comes in regular mugs and not in gigantic steins.

Don't look for typical izakaya fare in Ginza Lion.  We passed on the wide selection of charcuterie since two of my friends do not eat pork.  The beef stew was a good alternative.  The thick, slightly sweet sauce reminded me of japanese style curry.

We also ordered a  tender veal schnitzel, grilled tuna and tenderloin, medium rare.  

And yes, I'll have a  large fries with that please!

The food was incidental -- the company was the main thing.  Here is our little group of four.  

I call them my BFBDs ... best friends beyond Dentsu (where all of us met). 

We are the Asean bunch ... left to right, Malaysia, Singapore and Indonesia and the distaff side, 

the crazy Pinay from Manila.

Long may our fellowship continue to thrive!

P.S.

Through more than fifteen years, our friendship has extended to include  wives, husband (although Jay was not able to join this trip) and children.  

There is a worn out saying that says you can't choose your relatives but you can choose your friends. 

My  BFBDs are people I have chosen to think of as family.

Tokyo Tales Part 2 - Lining up for Luke's Lobster in Shibuya

April 17, 2018, 1:52 am

≫ Next: Tokyo Tales Part 3 - A Haiku in the Park (Hotel)

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Unless it's for my favourite ramen or tonkatsu place, I hardly ever line up for food in Japan.
If the restaurant/izakaya/yatai/coffee shop or even the convenience store is full,  the food in
the next less crowded spot will assuredly be just as good.
It's almost impossible to eat badly in Japan.
However, on this last trip to Tokyo I was herded to a popular sandwich shop by my
friend's young daughters.  And so that's how I found myself standing in line at New York based
Luke's Lobster in Shibuya.

Luke's Lobster is a popular US franchise.   You can find one of its Tokyo branches in a side street 

off youth-crowded Omotesando. The little shop is very popular among young Japanese who enjoy 

the authentic Maine lobster rolls.  

While the lobsters used in the sandwiches are flown in from Maine,Luke's Lobster also offers 

locally sourced crustaceans which cost much less than their US cousins.  The lobster roll is 

the star of the show but if you are lobster-averse (as one of my friends was)  you can order shrimp 

or crab rolls or even a combination of both. 

It's hot and sunny but the crowds continue to line up.  See the guy in the blue t-shirt -- he's Luke's Lobster'smaitre d and keeps the line from spilling into the street.  Having someone run over by a passing car would certainly be bad for business.

That day there was a special --  three rolls of your choice for a lower price.  Left to right is the shrimp roll, the lobster roll and the crab roll.

I thought the lobster rolls were the best of Luke's offerings -- the store isn't called Luke's Lobster  

for nothing.  

The  lobster meat was soft and piled generously on a toasted warm well- buttered bun.  

It was mixed with a light tangy, citrusy mayonnaise dressing. 

One six inch roll was just perfect for a quick lunch before heading back into the Shibuya shopping swarm.  

---

Tokyo Tales Part 3 - A Haiku in the Park (Hotel)

May 8, 2018, 12:21 am

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According to an industry survey, Tokyo has about 100,000 hotel rooms. Thirty of the most interesting and unique ones are at The Park Hotel Tokyo, located in the quiet yet accessible business district of Shiodome.  It is also my favourite hotel -- a refuge in this huge, hectic mega-city.

What makes these rooms at the Park Hotel so special? They are called Artist Rooms,

each one designed and done by noted contemporary Japanese artists.  

The Artists Rooms used to be spread out in different floors but they are now all clustered on the
31st floor.
The project is not new and has been ongoing for several years now. It is a way for the hotel to bring art and hospitality together, creating unique and lovely spaces for its guests. 

On this last visit to Tokyo, I stayed at the Haiku Room by Rieko Fujinami. 

Each room is done in the featured artist's distinctive style and each artist chooses a theme to "play" with.  The theme of my room was "Haiku" with a poem by noted Japanese poet Basho written on a scroll on the wall.  In english, the haiku goes "The moon a sign / this way sir,  to enter / a traveller's inn".  Such an appropriate and elegant way to welcome the guest into the hotel. 

I had stayed in an Artist Room before (see previous post https://porkintheroad.blogspot.com/2015/04/sleeping-under-sakura-tree-park-hotels.html)  but on 

this trip had opted for my regular room with a view of Tokyo Tower.  Perhaps because I am a 

member of the hotel's loyalty programme and perhaps because I have stayed so many times in the past,  I was upgraded to this single room.  

While it was a bit on the smallish side and I hardly had a view but I could sleep surrounded by art --  on the walls and the even on the ceiling.  

To add texture to her work, the artist Fujinami san had attached irregular shaped discs which symbolised the Milky Way.  It shimmered throughout the length of the black painted ceiling.  

I lay in bed and let my thoughts meander among the stars. 

Lotus pads and the occasional blossom encircled the room, painted on the walls around the bed and cascading down to the floor.   On the large blank wall koi in different colours floated lazily in the lotus pond, not in still life but swimming serenely, brought to life via the wonders of a video shown on an LCD projector.    I did not have to hie myself off to a Japanese garden,  the lotus pond had been brought right into my room.  

The koi swam languidly.  Subtle sounds of water and soft music followed their gentle movements. 

I tried to capture the experience of almost being immersed in the lotus pond via this video.  A part of me wished that I could just stay in my room enjoying the solitude but I had places to go and people to see.  At some point, I had to turn off the projector and step out of the room.  But I knew this tranquility would be waiting for me ... later tonight.   

I would make sure that I would hurry back. 

P.S

I hope you indulge me (and a thousand apologies to the great Basho san for even daring to try)  

but I was encouraged to create my own haiku inspired by Fujinami san's lovely Artist Room at the 

Park Hotel. . . 

My mind drifts, wanders

Through koi noiselessly gliding

Weaving through my dreams. 

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Banaue Bound Part 1 - Of Carinderia Hits and a ride on the Coda Bus

May 18, 2018, 12:58 am

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A journey of a thousand miles starts with a single step.  In our case, a journey of 350 kilometres started with a casual invitation ... "I'm going to the Imbayah Festival in Banaue next month, why don't you come?" I don't remember hesitating for even a split second before I said yes.
I had never been to Banaue and all of a sudden,  now seemed like the perfect time to go. 

So, thank you Harvey for popping the question!

We took the night bus to Banaue, a 9 hour long ride.  A trip that long needed sustenance.  

Good thing the area around the bus terminal in Cubao had lots of carinderias -- we were attracted 

to the bright red ceiling and wall of this nameless one.

  

Since it was nearly 10 p.m there was not much food left on the eskaparate (display case).  

Just a few pieces of fish, the local sausage longganiza and vegetables.  It would have to do.

Our  "light" dinner consisted of chopped string beans cooked in a spicy gata or coconut cream and 

paksiw na galunggong wrapped in banana leaf.  The fish was fresh and the vegetables were tasty.  

A perfect meal combination -- this plain carinderia with its honest, homespun cooking could give more expensive Filipino restaurants a run for their money!

While there are a number of bus lines plying the Manila - Banaue - Sagada route, we decided to take Coda Bus which advertised "super deluxe" buses that came with its own toilet.  The buses were new although I wasn't so keen on the lavender and dark purple colour scheme. 

You can buy bus tickets online and choose your seats as well.  Time for a quick selfie before the bus pulled out of the terminal -- just a few minutes past the designated departure time.

Coda keeps its buses clean and well maintained, I was quite impressed.  I wondered if the toilet would be a bit smelly as it would be in use throughout the trip but I need not have worried at all. 

I slept fitfully,  waking up every so often.  The bus drove straight for about 6 hours until it pulled in to a rest stop in Aritao, Nueva Vizcaya.  This is the Pink Pantry -- with a convenience store, a cafeteria and the most important thing for travellers (at least those who did not ride a Coda Bus),  relatively clean pay toilets. 

The buses stop for about 20 minutes -- giving the drivers a quick rest and a chance to sit and eat.  

We spent our time checking out the convenience store where we were tempted by an array of regional delicacies like silvanas from Nueva Ecija, pastillas de leche from Bulacan even otap from Cebu!  Now that travelled quite a long way.  

I had planned to stay awake till the bus pulled into Banaue but I must have fallen asleep again.  

When I woke up, it was way past sunrise and we were navigating the twists and turns of the mountain road.   In a few minutes, I would finally see Banaue!  The adventure was about to begin. 

Banaue Bound Part 2 - Imbayah 2018 Opening Ceremonies

June 24, 2018, 8:04 pm

≫ Next: Banaue Bound Part 3 - Hiking along the Hapao Rice Terraces

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I learned the hard way -- two things that won't work together:  a first time visit to Banaue and the Imabayah Festival.  One has to give way to the other ... unless you have more than a weekend to spare.

Imbayah -- Ifugao Province's biggest and grandest festival is held annually and this year, it happened from April 26 to 29.  Imbayah was ostensibly our main reason for visiting Banaue but it did not
quite work out as planned.
However, we made it just in time to catch the starting ceremonies held at the town plaza. 

I  squeezed myself to the front of the crowd, massed three deep on each side and thus had a good view of the parade as it passed by. 

Participants came from the different barangays  in Ifugao province.  Grouped into clusters, they each showed off the richness of the Ifugao culture and heritage.

These ladies showed off the traditional produce from their farms -- aside from the rice stalks that one is holding, I saw onions or leeks in the basket perched atop the lady's head.  She carried the basket with such grace and panache -- and would have put any beauty pageant contestant to shame.

I did not know it before but the handwoven cloth that the Ifugao wear show their status in the tribe.
The red cloth with black stripes that you see on the left is  worn by ordinary folk while the cloth with the white stripes on the right signifies that the wearer belongs to a higher, wealthier class.

It was heartening to see young people participate in the festival, a sign that their culture is alive and well and will continue on to the next generations.

Imbayah is a happy occasion,  where everyone comes together and puts aside differences to celebrate and show off their kinship and solidarity.

It was entertaining to watch the different tribal dances, the staged "fights" and battles.  People whooped and hollered with every imaginary thrust and feint.  What great fun!

This last group carried a poor hog, slung on bamboo poles.  I knew it was about to be slaughtered right there,  for the traditional canao where animals are killed and roasted as a sacrificial offering. Canaos are typically held during festivals, weddings and funerals.

I did not want to witness this gruesome (to my mind) tradition so I quickly walked through the crowds -- however, I was not able to escape the piercing albeit short dying squeals of that poor pig.

I made my way through the crowd to the other end of the plaza where there were booths showing off the traditional art and crafts.   These young ladies were busy hard at work weaving materials needed for basket making.

The gorgeous vibrant woven cloth traditionally worn by everyone is worked on this simple loom.  

I could not resist and ended up buying a native blouse, you can see it hanging on the rack above.

The lady at the booth said that there are now efforts to continue to cultivate and plant the heirloom rice of the terraces.  These come in several varieties -- red or brown rice,  black rice and the tinawon rice with round, small grains.  

Rice is not the only crop grown in the mountains.  The farmers also brought their locally grown fruits and vegetables and even bottles of wild honey. 

These small fish are found in the terraces and I was told they are considered as a tasty, local delicacy.

These are called "japanese fish" because they were introduced to the terraces by a Japanese scientist.  They reminded me of "talimusak", a particular favorite of my father.  I suppose these would also be delicious cooked in vinegar as "paksiw".

The sounds of the canao had died down so it was time to walk back to the center and catch what was left of the opening ceremonies.  

I quietly followed behind this young Igorot father and his son -- I have high hopes that in a few years, the little boy too would be alongside his father, dressed in Ifugao finery, revelling in the proud legacy and heritage of these mountain provinces.

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Banaue Bound Part 3 - Hiking along the Hapao Rice Terraces

July 1, 2018, 8:06 pm

≫ Next: Banaue Bound Part 4 - Batad Rice Terraces -- from a distance.

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Whether it is a month long once-in-a-lifetime vacation, a trip of just a week or two, a week-end road trip or even just a day trip to a nearby destination, it always helps to do your research before you go.
Since it was my first trip to Banaue, I made sure to read up on how to best enjoy the short two days that we would spend there. 

Research led me to this valuable travelers' tip -- if you're short on time, it's best to hire a local guide and private transportation.  

Public transport between the towns (and terraces) of Banaue are few and far in between so save yourself  the long wait for a ride that may never come and just simply hire your own.  

The local guide we contacted (thank you internet,  for the topnotch recommendation!) took care of hiring a jeep for our two day excursions into the delights of Banaue.  

We could have opted for a van but who wants to sit in an air conditioned cocoon when you can inhale the fresh mountain breeze (and a few diesel fumes) from a jeep's open windows.

My research also led me to making up my own itinerary for the two whole days that we would be there.  I decided that on our very first day, we would head to Hapao Rice Terraces in Hungduan town.  I had learned that exploring the terraces would take about 3 to 4 hours, certainly doable in one afternoon.  

Hapao is less than an hour's drive from Banaue, and when we reached a certain vantage point in the snaky mountain roads, the driver stopped so we could enjoy this view of the roads down below.  

The local governments have an efficient system for assisting tourists and visitors.
Everyone is asked to register at the Information Center of each municipality upon arrival.
The town of Hungduan,  frequented by local and foreign tourists alike has a very good program involving local residents.  If you are heading for the terraces and the hot springs at its end (as we were), you are asked to hire a local guide to take you on the trek.  

I think it's a beneficial program for the residents and more importantly,  helps them realise that
they are important stakeholders in maintaining and preserving the integrity of the rice terraces.

A few hundred meters from the Information Center is a look out point where you have a sweeping panoramic view of Hapao.  The young man in lavender is our excellent local guide from Banaue,John Bodah and the lady in yellow is Elisa, our local Hapao guide.  

The view of Hapao Terraces just about took my breath away.  

Silly me, before I came to Banaue, I did not realise that the terraces are in different towns scattered all throughout the province.  Five of the terraces are UNESCO World Heritage sites.  

While Hapao is not one of them, it is magnificent and was easily my favourite among those that I would see on this trip.
Hapao's terraces are not tall -- they cannot be called "stairways to the sky" but they are wide and expansive, stretching as far as the eye can see.  

Today's adventure would be an up close and personal exploration of Hapao.  We would trek through about 2.5 kilometers of rice terraces to get to Bogyah Hot Springs, approximately located in the area  I have encircled in red on the photo above.
Our guide John assured me it would be a leisurely stroll.
Hmm,  let me be the judge of that!

A steep ascent over paved roads is the first sign that this may not be such a leisurely stroll after all.  Our guide had brought wooden poles but Jay and I had our trusty Mont Bell hiking sticks which we try to use on every hike we've taken. 

The trail started just past the cement road.   The path winds gently through the hillsides surrounding the terraces.  Trees and foliage sometimes completely block the view.

The dirt trail ends and and it's time to walk along Hapao's rice terraces.  

To make the experience tourist friendly (and I suppose a little easier too for the locals who live here) portions of the pilapil (walkways)  have been paved. It would have been much harder to walk on uneven stones and earth which is what the terraces are really made of.  

If you suffer from a fear of heights or from vertigo, you may find walking the pilapil a bit scary as 

there is a 3 meter drop on one side.  Our guides half-jokingly told us that if we felt like falling, we should fall on the side of the rice field and not over the other side  -- better to ruin some rice plants than to break a lot of bones.  

On the paved portions, the pilapil was just about 18-inches wide.  The unpaved portions were even narrower.  At first I stepped gingerly and slowly, one careful step at a time,  but as I got the hang of it,  I got into my natural stride. 

The scenery was awe inspiring -- I felt so small and humbled walking in the midst of these majestic mountains and the seemingly unending fields of terraced greenery. 

The clear, clean and bubbling Hapao River passes through the rice terraces, an important source of irrigation for the rice fields.  

The bridge that crosses Hapao River leads to a series of steep stone steps carved along the side of the terraces.  There is a small village at the very top - the residents climb up and down these steps everyday,  most of the time carrying provisions.  We met a lady balancing two small sacks of potatoes on her head and carrying a shopping bag at the same time. 

At the top of the steps, we were rewarded with an exhilarating view, albeit marred by this man's laundry.  After a friendly nod,  he turned back to gazing at his fields, unbothered by the excited tourists taking selfies.

As a point of reference, we had walked from the spot circled in red above, just under the purple shorts. 

It would be another ten minute walk from the village to Bogyah Hot Springs. While some of the native houses still use the traditional thatched roof,  I find it sad  that more have started to use yero 

or galvanised iron sheets.  

Our first glimpse of our destination!  Bogyah Hot Springs marks the end of the trail and promises both a hot soak and a cooling dip.  

Tickets to the springs are included in the registration fee  paid at the Tourist Information Center in Hungduan.  Tourists can use the springs from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. after which it is reserved for the local residents' use.

While it is called Bogyah HOT Springs, this is a bit misleading as there is a pool with cold and clear water from Hapao River.  The cold and hot waters sit side by side with each other, separated just a stone wall.  There are cairns or piles of small rocks placed on the boulders.  The lady in purple on the right side was making one just as I snapped this photo.

I did not feel like changing so I merely dipped my legs in the warm water.  It was therapeutic after that walk through the rice terraces -- I could feel my toes unclench!

Jay decided to go all in and take a refreshing soak.  While you would not say this hot spring is "onsen hot" (40C)  it was warm enough to relax tired and aching muscles. 

Rain was in the forecast for the afternoon but the travel gods were kind to us.  We enjoyed the dry and cool walk back.  Going back was much faster as we had all gotten the hang of walking through the terraces -- even on the narrower ones made of packed earth and stones such as this stretch that you see above.

We made it safely back and in one piece!  No slips and falls, thanks to the expert guidance of our local guide Elisa.  If you ever decide to visit Hapao Terraces,  ask for her at the local tourist information center.  She was kind and patient and a fount of knowledge about the terraces, the people who live there and how they go about their daily lives.  Certainly the best person to walk you through this amazing experience!  

P.S.

Jay and I discovered the singular joys of hiking and trekking late in our lives.  We try to enjoy as much of it as we can, while we can ... as I don't think we have many years of hiking ahead of us. 

Walking through the centuries old rice terraces of Hapao was one of the best walks we have enjoyed. We're both grateful to have done this short but very fulfilling trek. 

Banaue Bound Part 4 - Batad Rice Terraces -- from a distance.

July 2, 2018, 5:39 am

≫ Next: Banaue Bound Part 5 - Our Bangaan Moment

≪ Previous: Banaue Bound Part 3 - Hiking along the Hapao Rice Terraces

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Batad Rice Terraces have been called the best by many who have seen it.  From my research I knew that unlike low and sweeping Hapao,  Batad's rice paddies were planted way up high. 
These terraces also seem to be the most photographed and visited by tourists -- I read countless
blogs where travellers boasted of trekking up to the highest point and looking down on some truly amazing scenery.
But I am nothing if not practical and definitely self aware so I told our guide John that I had no illusions (and delusions)  of walking along Batad's tall terraces -- to see them from afar would be  enough for me. 

We reserved the trip to Batad for our second and last day in Banaue as our guide John  said it would take the most part of a day.  It was bright and sunny when we set out,  and it was certainly going to be a hot day for walking. 

Our first stop was one of the various Banaue Viewpoints -- one of the few vantage spots where you can appreciate the grandeur of the rice terraces.   Some have become quite commercialised --there are vendors hawking trinkets and locals dressed in native attire who will gladly pose for photos, for a fee of course.  

A few years ago, visitors to Batad had to walk over 4 kilometers of dirt road to reach the mountain path that would take them to the village.   Progress does have its perks -- today a wide paved road takes you right to the edge of the mountain, where the trail into the village begins. 

The trail starts as a jumble of loose rocks and stones, a very narrow footpath on the edge of the mountain.  It is quite a long drop below and I doubt that even the treetops could break a fall.

I wonder how I can possibly traverse that stretch.  John says that I have only to stay close to the mountain and not look down and that this seemingly perilous part is only a few meters long.  

I wait a bit and watch as others traipse through -- I finally gritted my teeth and with John hovering  at my elbow, I tentatively made my way down.

I survived!  It was heartening to see a few others who were as slow as I was but I also took note of the younger tourists -- particularly the foreigners who bounded down like long legged gazelles.  

Not to mention the locals -- children, old men and women, who walked past us carrying all sorts of stuff - pieces of hollow blocks, sacks of cement and animal feeds, 5 gallon water containers ... it was just amazing. 

The trail to Batad is just a 30 minute trek carved out of the mountainside.   I'm glad that it hadn't rained the past days as it would have been harder if the path was muddy.

I see my old friends from the Kumano Kodo, the kino ne (tree roots) so naturally, we have to take a selfie together.

Batad reminds me of the age old conundrum -- how to preserve ancient and historic sites yet make them accessible to those would should appreciate them.  

In this case, developing the road to Batad has increased tourism in the area, so much so that homestays, pension houses and restaurants have mushroomed.   This is definitely not a good example of sustainable  tourism. 

This sign marks the official boundary of the barangay of Batad.  As the faded signpost declares this is one of the five terraces that have been designated as UNESCO World Heritage sites.  The others are Bangaan, Hungduan, Mayoyao and Nagacadan. 

We walked a little farther on, on a paved footpath this time.  Tall reeds called cane grass make up most of the shrubbery.  John said that these are used as roofing material, in making roll-up window shades, and other various handicrafts.

Before we could even say "eureka" or "voila", we turned a corner and there it was -- the famous rice terraces of Batad.  We stood at a vantage point where we could best appreciate the overall grandeur of these amphitheatre style terraces.  

From where we stood, John pointed out three options for a better view of the terraces ...

1. The topmost part, encircled in red is where the fit and the brave walk to.  From there, John said that you get the best view of the terraces down below;

2. The middle part, encircled in yellow would take another 45 minute walk down to a cluster of houses where you can venture off and walk on the pilapil to enjoy a mid-level view and finally;

3. The green roof, encircled in purple is a restaurant where you can get a closer view of the terraces without having to balance along the heights.  John said they also serve a decent lunch.  

That clinched it ... we all voted  for option #3. 

The walk down to our destination took about fifteen minutes over uneven and sometimes tall steps.  Believe me, descents are always harder than ascents. Only the thought of a cold drink and some food at the end kept me plodding along.

Batad Pension House and Restaurant gives visitors this marvellous view -- the entire breadth, length and width of Batad terraces are arrayed right before you.   While quite stunning, I also felt that some portions of the terraces were no longer as well maintained and preserved.   Still, if you look past the crumbling walls and the paddies overrun with grass and vegetation, you can probably imagine how glorious Batad must have looked many many years ago. 

The owner of Batad Pension is an accomplished woodworker.  The furniture and the decor are all done by him.  The wooden benches were so interesting but how would I have lugged them out of here?   If you want to see smaller pieces, his studio is right below the pension.

The pension is in the midst of a renovation -- a large deck has been built, jutting out into space and giving guests a more unencumbered view of the terraces and the mountains that surround it.

It was too hot to stay outside but on a cool and cloudy day, this spot and a cold beer would have been perfection itself. 

We ordered a tuna flat bread -- not to be confused with a pizza.  The dough was thicker and reminded me of a dense, crispy naan -- decidedly more middle eastern than Italian.

This friendly pooch walked in and kept me company -- was it my dog charmer skills or was it the crumbs from the tuna flatbread that fell non-accidentally on the floor.

We lingered for as long as we could until John finally herded us all out of the pension for the trudge back.  Time to say good bye to the terraces behind us and climb up these dirt paths ... 

... and climb up some more.  As usual, the walk back to where we had left the jeep was a little bit faster than the walk into the village. 

We can rightfully say we had our  Batad"adventure" even if we did not experience walking on its seemingly sky high terraces. Admiring the breathtaking vistas from a distance was grace enough 

for me.  And the short but at times challenging trek was definitely a good walk ...  unspoiled.