Cruising down the Sumidagawa from Asakusa to Hinode Pier

January 13, 2016, 4:58 pm

≫ Next: Christmas Dinner in an Izakaya -- Sennen No Utage in Shimbashi

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Subways are an easy and fast means of getting around a city and when it comes to Tokyo, 

the subway is one of the most efficient and certainly the cleanest that I have ever seen.  

The Tokyo Metro runs on time to the last second and even though the cars are so crowded during 

rush hour,  all  are surprisingly spotlessly, faultlessly clean.  

However, subway systems while fast and convenient, also keep you underground and while you are scooting around the metropolis, you never see any of the sights.

When in Tokyo I sometimes take a scenic and relaxing option to the subway.  The Tokai Kisen Company runs comfortable and spacious ferry boats that ply the Sumidagawa, Tokyo's main river 

that flows through the city and empties out into Tokyo Bay.  While there are various routes and 

even sightseeing cruises,  water buses ply the river from Asakusa to Hinode Pier, just 

a couple of stops from the Park Hotel,  my base when in Tokyo.

You get on the ferry from a station at the foot of the Azumabashi, the bridge that links Asakusa 

to  the other side of the Sumidagawa.

Like the subway, the water bus is efficient and always runs on time.  It's a bit slower though -- 

it takes about 45 minutes to go from Asakusa to Hinode, a trip that would have taken less than thirty minutes via subway.  Most of the people who ride the water bus are those who have time on their hands like housewives with young children, retired senior citizens and tourists like myself.  

There are two levels on the ferry, you go down a short staircase if you want to sit below.  I love the gleaming brass touches and the polished marble tiled floor which reminds me of old fashioned ships. 

The Water Bus also has a sleek, futuristic looking ferry boat that looks like a huge anime water bug but I have never ridden that.

There are safety reminders in both Japanese and English.

Because it is winter,  the boat's stern has been closed off with glass windows.  During summer, this part of the boat is kept open and is a nice place to sit and escape from Tokyo's heat and humidity.

We leave  Asakusa Pier on time and quickly pass through the Eitabashi.  Bashi means bridge in Nihongo so if you call it Eitabashi Bridge you are actually saying the Eita Bridge Bridge.

The Tokyo Sky Tree can be seen from the water bus and is one of the key sights that defines the city skyline.

Bright yellow orange towers hold up the cables on the Shin Oohashi.  Hashi has the same meaning as bashi in Nihongo and both are used as suffixes to denote bridges. 

There is no one sitting on the stern with us -- all the passengers are in the warmer upper deck, preferring to take in the views through the closed windows.  It's nice and quiet where we are and a perfect time to just relax and enjoy the ride as the water bus glides smoothly through the river.

All too soon, we reach the mouth of Tokyo Bay where the Sumidagawa ends.  Sea gulls and ducks float serenely on the water.

The ferry docks at Hinode Pier where passengers are waiting to take it back to Asakusa. 

I almost wish the trip had lasted just a few minutes more.  For just a little more than 700 yen, we 

were able to stretch our legs, unwind and enjoy the expansive views of different areas of Tokyo, 

both old and new. 

It's about a  400 meter walk from the pier to the Hinode station of the Yurikamome line which will take you towards either Toyosu or Shimbashi.  

If you ever get tired of the subway and have an hour to spare, take the water bus.  

It is an excellent way to see a bit of Tokyo from a different point of view.

---

Christmas Dinner in an Izakaya -- Sennen No Utage in Shimbashi

January 15, 2016, 1:07 am

≫ Next: Tastefulness in many ways at Sakura Terrace Hotel Kyoto

≪ Previous: Cruising down the Sumidagawa from Asakusa to Hinode Pier

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Christmas in Japan is celebrated as a commercial occasion and not as a religious holiday.  On the days leading up to Christmas you'll see lots of decor, amazing light displays and all sorts of fabulous shop windows.  December 25  though is a regular working and school day. 

Still,  the Japanese do have Christmas dinners --  whether with their families, co-workers or friends.

On Christmas night, we were fortunate to have arranged for a dinner with very good friends 

from Singapore who were in Tokyo visiting their son for the holidays.  The Shimbashi station 

area  was convenient to both our hotels and has numerous bars, restaurants and cafes.

We didn't have to wander around for long before we settled on a place to eat.

In Tokyo, because real estate is so expensive, many restaurants do not have the luxury of a ground floor location.  Some buildings seem to contain nothing but restaurants and bars on all its floors.

Sennen No Utage is an izakaya (japanese bar) that is on the 2nd floor of this building.

I was worried that the restaurant might be full of revellers but it was still quiet when we walked up. 

Utage had a number of private rooms --  one of the trends among the bigger,  more upscale izakayas is to have small rooms for groups.  Perhaps seeing that we were foreigners,  we were given the tatami room with a dropped floor under the low table. 

An izakaya is a casual bar or pub. Izakayas are usually small, smoky places in narrow back streets and alleys where locals grab a beer and a bite after work.  

Sennen no Utage is a modern and more refined izakaya although I could still hear the raucous laughter and noise through the thin walls.  

Right after the oshibori or hot towels were handed to us, we were given this complimentary 

appetiser,  a creamy fish salad with some simmered daikon and green onions.  

I was glad to note that appearances notwithstanding,  Utage's menu consisted of typical 

izakaya fare.   We had assorted shio and tare yakitori -- tebasaki  (chicken wings),  reba (chicken liver), toriniku (white meat  and my least favourite),  negima  (chicken with negi or green onions) 

and  the  high-cholesterol-high-uric-acid but decadently delicious shiro  (isaw or chicken intestines) 

and bonjiri (chicken bottoms).  

Utage's menu was sprinkled with bits of creative tweaks on traditional bar fare.   

Because we were so intrigued by the description, we ordered gyoza wrapped in kawa (chicken skin).  Instead of a dumpling wrapper, thin chicken skin was wrapped around the meat filling then deep 

fried and glazed with a light teriyaki sauce.  This was delicious but quite fatty -- I much prefer the normal steamed-flash-fried gyoza.

Grilled beef tongue or gyutan is another common izakaya menu item.  The tongue is usually cut in bite sized pieces,  skewered on short bamboo sticks and grilled.  

At Utage we were served the gentrified version of gyutan  -- the tongue was sliced thinly, quickly

grilled and garnished with a bean sprout salad.  The gyutan was chopstick-tender and just melted in the mouth.  This was the one time throughout the whole meal that I wished I had a bowl of  rice.

The Japanese have a strange tradition of eating fried chicken, specifically Kentucky Fried Chicken for Christmas dinner.  We decided to order Utage's southern fried chicken, which the menu said was a house specialty.  It was like chicken schnitzel -- the meat had been pounded thin, seasoned, breaded and then deep fried.  It was crisp, juicy and didn't need any sauce at all.

I don't  like avocado but this Avocado Carpaccio turned me into a fan.  Thick slices of avocado 

were drizzled with a sauce of different kinds of cheeses (blue cheese was definitely present) and 

as a Japanese touch --  topped with delicious hijiki,  a type of seaweed that is considered as 

healthy and nutritious.

Perfectly cold Asahi beer complemented the food,  the conversation and yes, the peals of delighted laughter.   

Full disclosure.   I have to admit that we had two orders of everything.  You would think we would 

be full after the rich and creamy avocado -- but no, we still had some room for (just) one large 

platter of assorted sashimi.

Here we are after our Christmas dinner.    Utage was a great place to celebrate Christmas in Tokyo, 

in the company of long time, very dear friends.  Domo arigato gozaimashita,Anthony, Rina and Johann!

PS.   As we walked back to the hotel,  I couldn't resist taking this shot of the long queue outside 

KFC,  all of them lined up and waiting for their  Christmas chicken dinner.  

Tastefulness in many ways at Sakura Terrace Hotel Kyoto

January 15, 2016, 9:18 pm

≫ Next: Ramen Face Off in Kyoto Station : Part 6 Sumire Ramen, out of Sapporo to Kyoto

≪ Previous: Christmas Dinner in an Izakaya -- Sennen No Utage in Shimbashi

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Kyoto, with its more than 2000 temples and shrines, its stunning natural beauty and centuries 

old kaiseki ryori is a top destination for travellers visiting Japan.  

Because more tourists come each year, more and more accommodations have gone up from 

cheerful hostels for backpackers to high end luxury ryokans that charge top prices for unique experiences.

Somewhere in the middle are hotels for ordinary travellers like us -- one of the newer ones 

is Sakura Terrace Hotel in the area of Kyoto Station.  I stayed here first in April, enjoyed it so much that I decided to book again for our holiday this December.

Whether you arrive via shinkansen from Tokyo, or via the Haruka Express from Kansai Airport,  

you will invariably land at Kyoto Station.  To get to Sakura Terrace, head for the Hachijo exit 

which is the station side away from Kyoto Tower.  Cross  to Avanti Mall and turn into the street, walking away from the station.

It's roughly a kilometre walk to the hotel, just walk straight down the wide road.  You will pass small restaurants, the ubiquitous convenience stores and Daiwa Roynet Hotel.  Sakura Terrace will be on the right side of the road.

You won't miss the hotel, it's right at a major intersection.

The hotel is right on top the Kujo subway station which makes it convenient for getting around the city.  There are also bus stops across the street where you can take buses to different parts of Kyoto.

The standard rooms are spare, simple and measure 18  square meters.  There is 

more than enough space for our big suitcases.  Beyond the sliding glass door is a terrace 

which is a nice feature in some of the rooms of the hotel.

The terrace comes with patio furniture -- two chairs and a small table.  While 5C is a bit too cold to stay outdoors for long, we enjoy stepping out and looking at the view.

Kyoto does not have skyscrapers like Tokyo so the view from our terrace shows the mountains surrounding the city -- clear and unobstructed, specially on a bright winter morning.

Japanese hotel bathrooms never cease to amaze me -- they are models of space saving efficiency. 

Sakura Terrace's bathroom amenities include complete toiletry kits and premium Shiseido bath and 

body products.

True to its name, the hotel has an attractive terrace area on the ground floor where you can sit and enjoy your drink.  Instead of giving guests one welcome drink when they check in, Sakura Terrace offers one free drink per guest each night that you stay in the hotel.  

I like to think of it as "okaerinasai"(welcome back!) drink.  You can choose from fresh juices,  mocktails, cocktails, wine, sake, shochu, and hooray  for me ...  beer is on the house too.  

The free drinks are available from 6:30  to 10:30 p.m.

There are heaters scattered around the outdoor terrace, to keep guests who are brave enough to stay outside,  nice and toasty warm.

One of the two things I like best about Sakura Terrace are the public baths --  one for ladies and 

one for men.  If like me, you are a fan of the Japanese onsen, you'll really see this as a big plus.  

Not all hotels have public baths on their premises.   I'm sorry I can't show you the inside but the "pool" is big enough to comfortably fit 6 to 8 guests.  The temperature is perfect too, not scalding 

but really hot to take out all the knots and kinks. 

Here's a tip -- during busy season when the hotel is full, go either very early in the morning or very late at night and you can have the bath almost all to yourself.

The baths are open from 6 a.m. to 10 a.m. and again from 7 p.m to 1:00 a.m.

And here is my very favourite feature of Sakura Terrace -- the delicious and varied Japanese and western buffet breakfast.  This is served every morning, from 6:30 to 10  at the area near the entrance to the hotel.

Indoor seating can be quite limited particularly when the hotel is full.  If you don't want to wait,  

you can take your breakfast tray and eat outside.  Heaters and blankets are provided during the 

winter months.

There are freshly squeezed juices - orange, grapefruit and even tomato.

I like to start my day with the plain yoghurt dressed up with the mixed berry compote.

There is a dizzying array of breads -- croissants, soft rolls,  danish pastries, Japanese breads.  

The walnut rolls are specially good.

You can watch the kitchen staff assemble these sandwiches right before your eyes -- you can even make a request -- no onions on my ham on white bread please!

There are tasty little pork sausages, thick slices of bacon with asparagus and that Japanese favourite --

little round hamburg steaks in brown gravy.

Instead of having plain white rice, Sakura Terrace serves up these yummy rice rolls, topped with plum or with various kinds of furikake.  Tasty and tastefully inventive at the same time.

There are  different kinds of Japanese side dishes ...

And you can also create your own healthy breakfast salad.

You can choose from three different blends at the coffee machine -- mild, regular or dark.  

Coffee and tea are available for free throughout the day.

It's almost too difficult to get up from my cozy chair after that indulgent breakfast.  These soft furry cushions are a stylish, snug touch.

To help their guests maximise their visit to Kyoto, the hotel has leaflets that give

directions to 23 of the city's top destinations.  Each leaflet tells you how to get to each place 

via bus, train or subway and how to connect to nearby destinations.  

It's a service that I appreciate and find much more helpful and easier than trying to read a city map.

Sakura Terrace truly delights its guests in many thoughtful and tasteful ways.

Ramen Face Off in Kyoto Station : Part 6 Sumire Ramen, out of Sapporo to Kyoto

January 16, 2016, 11:18 pm

≫ Next: Koganeya in Kyoto -- "Ichiban" Ramen in the basement of Avanti Mall

≪ Previous: Tastefulness in many ways at Sakura Terrace Hotel Kyoto

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Mea culpa. I have been lazy ... despite recent visits to Kyoto, I had not been doing anything about my (greedy) mission  to try all 8 ramen places in Ramen Koji (Ramen Alley) in Kyoto Station.   

So a few weeks ago,  I made sure I would  strike one more from my ramen (bucket) list.

For now, the score stands at 6 down ... 2 to go.

I was hoping that the crowds would have thinned out late in the evening  but all the stores in Ramen Koji were still full.  Luckily,  Sumire  tucked away in a side lane had a few seats available.  And even luckier, it was a place I had not tried.

Ramen restaurants are characterised by vending machines where you choose and pay for your orders.  Because so many tourists are enraptured with ramen,  vending machines in places like Ramen Koji now include English translations. 

We were not really that hungry so Jay and I decided to split an order of ramen, a bowl of mentaiko gohan and a bottle of beer for me.

Sumire is straight out of Sapporo where miso ramen was invented.  Aside from having ramen at Sumire, you can even buy their soup packets to take home.

Instead of the usual Asahi or Kirin that is normally served I was pleasantly surprised when 

my beer was brought to the table -- it was a half litre bottle of a brew from the Onuma Craft Breweryof Hokkaido, specially bottled and branded for Sumire.  The beer was coloured a nice golden amber and had a full-bodied fruity fragrance and taste.  

Heavier and sweeter than the usual sharp and dry Japanese beer (which I love) this was still a welcome change of pace.

We didn't order the recommended miso ramen but opted for the lighter shio ramen.  

The  curly ramen noodles had a good chewy bite.  There were generous portions of shredded 

green onions and menma (pickled bamboo shoots) but sadly, just two thin slices of chashu pork.  A large slice of fish cake was delicious and made me wish I had ordered an extra portion.

The broth had a thin coating of oil on the surface which may have looked unappetising but did not interfere with the taste at all.

My tastebuds and I were  happy with the mentaiko gohan which the waitress said was a specialty.   A ball of bright coral-coloured marinated spicy fish roe was surrounded by evenly shredded scrambled egg and topped with thin streaks of nori.  I mashed the mentaiko into the rice and savoured  every salty spicy spoonful.  

Mentaiko gohan and shio ramen with a bottle of  Hokkaido craft beer ...  a light but delightful dinner at Sumire in Ramen Koji in Kyoto Station.

Koganeya in Kyoto -- "Ichiban" Ramen in the basement of Avanti Mall

January 18, 2016, 2:33 am

≫ Next: Walking and Eating with All Star Osaka Walk -- Part 1 : A 5-star gourmet treat at Tsuruhashi Market

≪ Previous: Ramen Face Off in Kyoto Station : Part 6 Sumire Ramen, out of Sapporo to Kyoto

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Right behind Kyoto Station is unprepossessing Avanti Mall.  Take the underground walkway and emerge at Basement 1 where the mall's restaurants are.  While there are different types to choose from -- izakayas, a barbecue wagyu place,  a soba restaurant, an Italian pasta place ... it is the ramen place called Koganeya that is a hidden gem.

Avanti is a no frills, no fuss mall frequented more by locals than tourists.  The basement where the eateries are is about as basic as you can get.  You'll find Koganeya at one corner near the escalator.

There are no english menus but the board at the entrance is easy to understand. 

This is the omnipresent vending machine where you choose and pay for your food.  

Because there are photos of the various dishes and beverages, ordering is easy. I asked the 

waiter what their "ichiban" or number one ramen was and he recommended the 800 yen 

tonkotsu ramen.   I don't normally like milky tonkotsu ramen preferring a clean, clear broth 

but since I asked,  I had to take his word for it.

We came in at a bit early for dinner so we had the place to ourselves.  

Koganeya has a much bigger space than any of the restaurants in Ramen Koji in Kyoto Station.  

The open kitchen is centrally placed so you can see it  from almost anywhere you sit in the restaurant.

The waiter spoke a little english and came by to pick up our order stubs.  He asked how we 

wanted our noodles -- normal, hard or harder but quickly suggested that the harder noodles were 

the preferred option.

When my ramen bowl came out,  I found it so kawaii that there was a small sheet of nori printed with a multi-lingual thank you note on top of the soup.  

The nori of course is edible and after I had dissolved it into the broth, I took a sip of Kogenaya's ichiban tonkotsu ramen.  

This has got to be one of the best tonkotsu ramen I have tried --  no, change that, this is one of the best ramen that I have ever had!  

The broth was dense, deep, delicious and tasted of long simmering pork bones.  There were 

small drops of an oily black soy sauce which did not  distract from the broth's complex pork taste.

The garlic was not overpowering.  The ajitama eggs were perfectly cooked.   

Blend a bit of the yolk with the noodles and broth for a  creamy umami explosion in your mouth.

In addition to the ramen, Jay and I split a chashu don.  The pork slices were soft and succulent and melted in the mouth.   A bit of ichimi togarashi or pepper flakes  sprinkled on the soft runny egg yolk did wonders to kick up the flavour.  Mix everything up with the rice and it makes a good side dish to the tonkotsu ramen.

Cheers to Koganeya Ramen!  You should have a space in Ramen Koji where the best ramen restaurants are.  But for my purely selfish purposes, I much prefer that you are unexposed to the tourist crowds, undiscovered in the basement of Avanti Mall.

Walking and Eating with All Star Osaka Walk -- Part 1 : A 5-star gourmet treat at Tsuruhashi Market

January 24, 2016, 9:16 pm

≫ Next: Walking and Eating with All Star Osaka Walk Part 2 : Wagyu at Yakiniku M

≪ Previous: Koganeya in Kyoto -- "Ichiban" Ramen in the basement of Avanti Mall

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I love Tokyo but I love Osaka more.  The buzz,  the friendly people, the casual vibe and the fantastic food are more than enough reasons for me to keep going back (and back and back ...)  That plus the uniquely Osakan concept of kuidaore which literally translates to "eating oneself to ruin". A most worthwhile endeavour for this pork in the road.
And when you want to kuidaore in Osaka, you will have no better guide than All Star Osaka Walk.  This tour company does regular walking tours of Osaka but you really must try them for their unique and fun customised private tours.  

We always base ourselves in Kyoto but it's easy to travel to and from Osaka --  and since we discovered the Direct Q Express of the Keihan Bus Company, it's become even easier.  Now, we
don't have to suffer through rush hour on the train -- we just board the bus which whisks us in comfort, straight from Kyoto Station to OCAT or the Osaka City Air Terminal in the Namba area.  

In OCAT, we met up with Minako san, owner of All Star Osaka Walk. We boarded the subway and got off at Tsuruhashi Station.

This is Minako san,  energetic, passionate and very enthusiastic owner of All Star Osaka Walk.  

I've done many tours with her and she always comes up with something new and interesting 

about Osaka,  the culture,  the history and yes, the food.  Today, we will attempt once again to kuidaore and our first stop is Tsuruhashi Market.

Martina stops to pose by this cutout board that shows traditional Korean costumes.  Tsurahashi Market is right in the centre of Koreatown where many Korean Japanese live.

I passed by the dry goods section and just had to stop when I saw this bright display of
colourful traditional Korean blankets.

In the wet market section, stalls sell cooked Korean food like my favourite pajeon or pancakes.

And naturally,  you can find all kinds of kimchi being sold in Tsuruhashi Market.

Many of the Koreans who live in Koreatown are second and even third generation Korean-Japanese. So it's not all kimchi and banchan, you'll also find pickled Japanese vegetables.

Tsuruhashi is also a fish market where you can get the fresh catch of the day.

 Fat and large oysters are so enticing,  I want to sit down and douse them with spicy 

pinakurat (coconut vinegar).

For carnivores, there are cuts of pork, beef and yes, organ meat or horumon which has become 

popular lately, specially among young Japanese ladies, Minako san tells me.

It was just a few days to shogatsu or the New Year, a very important occasion for the Japanese.  Christmas is nothing at all compared to this almost week long holiday. The market was full of shoppers buying what they needed for the celebration.

I saw these shogatsu wreaths that the Japanese decorate their homes with.  These are made of 

rice straw,  pine leaves and mandarin oranges or daidai. Apparently the name of these 

oranges also translates to "generation after generation"which makes them auspicious symbols 

for the New Year.

Minako san points out these large carrots that are not coloured orange but are a deep dark red.  Because red is a lucky colour,  these carrots are included in the osechi ryori or the traditional New Year dishes.

The Japanese take great care in preparing for shogetsu by cooking osechi ryori -- 

different small dishes placed in gorgeous lacquer boxes that are eaten on New Year's day.  

Minako san tells me that osechi ryori can now be bought cooked or ordered from restaurants, 

a big help for those women who do not have the time to make all the dishes from scratch.  

These are herring roe called kazunoko and the millions of tiny eggs packed tightly together means many descendants for the family.   And of course, gold is a most fortuitous colour.

After walking  through the market, we arrive at a little corner amidst the fishmongers' stalls  

with a few chairs and small tables.  Minako san tells us that this section has been  exclusively 

set up for her All Star Osaka Walk clients.

Thanks to Minako san, we are able to taste a few of the dishes that make up osechi ryori. 

She gave us each a plate of small bites  and explained their meaning while we ate.

The deep black glossy soy beans called kuromame are symbols of good health and hard work 

while the large white beans are called hanamame or flower beans.  

Both are boiled in a sweet sauce and are soft but slightly chewy and so good.  

On a side note -- kuromame are very expensive as I found out myself when I tried to buy some uncooked, from the supermarket.  

There are stewed lotus roots or renkon which are considered lucky because of their "holes"through which you can see ahead to the future.  

Long and sturdy burdock root or gobo is a wish for a longevity and a stable life.  

Kohaku namasu is vinegared radish and red carrots that symbolise good fortune.

My favourite konnyaku along with other stewed vegetables like bamboo shoots, mushrooms, 

tofu are collectively called nishime and symbolise family well being (perhaps because they all blend and complement each other).

It's all so informative and yes, everything is delicious. I eat up every little bit on my plate -- now I 

am sure to have a lucky and happy new year.

After that osechi ryori "degustacion",  Minako san brings us lightly simmered tako or octopus.

Even the fat tentacles are so tender that the toothpick pierces the meat easily.  It reminds me 

of pulpo gallego that I enjoyed so much along the Camino. The octopus comes with a sweetish 

dipping sauce.

Next up is maguro sashimi taken from various parts of the fish.  Each bite sized morsel
delivers  a different texture and taste.

I must have been the only one (aside from Minako san of course) who truly enjoyed this pack
of shirasu sashimi.

Shirasu  (whitebait) are tiny almost translucent fish -- these were so fresh that I think some of them were still moving.   They were cool and smooth and slid down my throat without any effort.  

Minako san said that fresh raw shirasu was a rare treat since the fish does not keep and is usually cooked or seasoned immediately.
I have eaten whitebait before but always dried,  vinegared or fried.
You will not find fresh shirasu in any supermarket but only in fish markets and only when they are in season.  

This very friendly young lady joined us at our table. Together with her mother,  she works
 in their fish stall across the way.  Minako san called her"Miss Tsuruhashi"perhaps because
she was such a hospitable "host" making us feel completely at ease.  She is the typical Osakan --
open, friendly and with a ready smile and laugh.

With wonderfully fresh food and such warm hospitality,  Minako san and All Star Osaka Walk's little corner of Tsurahashi Market made for a truly 5 star gourmet experience.

Walking and Eating with All Star Osaka Walk Part 2 : Wagyu at Yakiniku M

January 27, 2016, 12:31 am

≫ Next: Walking and Eating with All Star Osaka Walk Part 3 : A Tea Ceremony at Salon de Alice

≪ Previous: Walking and Eating with All Star Osaka Walk -- Part 1 : A 5-star gourmet treat at Tsuruhashi Market

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Tourists who travel to both Tokyo and Osaka will realise that when it comes to eating,  Osaka is not just a second city to Tokyo. While Tokyo may have more 3 star Michelin restaurants, I am fonder
of the casual, laid back and dare I say it -- "proletarian"food and atmosphere that you can find in Osaka.

After enjoying our introduction to osechi ryori at Tsuruhashi Market (see previous post) we set off
with Minako san on the next half of our walking and eating tour.

This is Ebisubashi, one of the most famous shopping places that you can find in Osaka. Together with Shinsaibashi, which it connects to, this covered arcade is lined with shops, boutiques, restaurants and stretches nearly 2 kilometres long.

Foodies (I hate that word) know that the longer the line, the better the food.   My inner hog is tempted to stop and join the queue but I have to move on.

We leave Ebisubashi and walk over one of the many bridges that cross Dotonbori canal.

The main event for today is a wagyu lunch.  A short walk from the bridge is Yakiniku M, a very popular restaurant in a side street off Dotonbori that had quite a line when we got there. If you are intimidated by the price of wagyu, you will be pleasantly surprised (as I was) that Yakiniku M has
reasonably priced wagyu set courses.

Yakiniku M serves Matsusaka beef or matsusakagyu.   Kobe beef may sound more familiar but matsusakagyu is just as respected and held in high esteem.  Some Japanese gourmets even  call it 

the best wagyu.   The beef  comes from Japanese black cows raised in Matsuzaka in Mie Prefecture 

in the Kansai region.  

The waitress leads us up a narrow staircase to the second floor where diners can eat in their own private rooms.  Surprisingly, Yakiniku M is not a big restaurant, there are some tables on the 

ground floor and just a few rooms on the second floor.  This explains why there are lines 

during lunchtime and why reservations are absolutely essential.

We stayed in a dropped floor dining area good for 6 people but for bigger groups, there are "connecting" rooms where you can open the sliding screens.

We were first given bowls of warm soup which looked insipid and cloudy, reminding me of 

dishwater.  My first sip dispelled all fears --  it tasted of the deep umami essence of beef bones, 

boiled and simmered for hours.

Our matsusakagyu was presented to us on a tray with the different cuts conveniently identified.  There was rib eye, lean beef or sirloin and of course the fatty marbled cut that distinguishes wagyu from other types of beef and makes it particularly prized.

Two small globs of beef fat or suet are on the table.   I hear faint cries -- but it's just my arteries,  screaming in horror.

We put the beef fat on the hot grill and it melts into what I am sure is a delicious-high-cholesterol- artery-clogging oil that will cook our matsusakayagyu.

I start off with slices of rib eye.  It doesn't take too long to cook the meat -- just a few seconds 

of fragrant, mouthwatering sizzling and it's good to eat.  

My first bite dissolves like butter on my tongue.  A thousand voices burst into the Hallelujah 

chorus in my mouth -- effectively drowning out the shrieks and wails from my ventricles.  

What can I say -- tongue beats out brain and heart every single time!

We are given kimchi and a cabbage slaw but today, at this very moment frozen in time and 

saturated fat,  vegetables  are nothing but a distraction.   

I just want to indulge in the melt-in-your mouth goodness of wagyu.  It is truly tokubetsu na (special). 

Sadly, all good things must come to an end.  After that remarkable lunch,  we say good bye,   

the taste of wagyu lingering  in our tastebuds.  I would gladly "kuidaore" at Yakiniku M any time ... eating myself to ruin (and bankruptcy) with matsusakagyu,  the best beef  in Japan!

P.S

For those who want to share the taste of wagyu with their four-legged best friends, 

Yakiniku M sells homemade dog treats made from ... yes, scraps and ends of real Japanese beef.    Aptly called "Slow Dog" these gourmet treats are packed in colourful take out boxes and contain three kinds of dog treats -- beef jerky,  beef cookies and vege bone sticks.   It's 1,500 yen for each pack and I take a couple home to my labradors,  Nero and Travis.

Walking and Eating with All Star Osaka Walk Part 3 : A Tea Ceremony at Salon de Alice

January 27, 2016, 7:49 am

≫ Next: My Kyoto UNESCO World Heritage Sites Bucket List #15 Kozan-ji ... of tea plants, manga and St Francis of Assisi

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After that excellent matsusakagyu lunch at Yakiniku M, my betsubara (Japanese term for "second stomach") was direly in need of dessert.  I needed my sugar fix and make that with a heavy dose of caffeine please!

To end our day on a "sweet" note,  Minako san of All Star Osaka Walk shepherded us back on the subway bound for Matsuyamachi, just two stops away.  With all the wagyu we had just eaten, perhaps we should have walked to burn off the (saturated) fat and calories.

Matsuyamachi Station serves a quiet residential neighbourhood with alleys and back streets that have houses dating back from almost a century ago. Our destination was this renovated old house with a courtyard. Minako san said this had once been a samurai's house, dismantled and brought here all the way from Nagoya.

There are different small shops on the ground floor -- an optical shop with stylish and unique eyeglasses, a leather shop specialising in handmade bags and purses and even an artisanal chocolate maker.

A small boutique has traditional Japanese cloth bags and small crafts.  Everything is so kawaii!

However we were here not to shop (well, at least not yet) but to experience the time honoured Japanese chado or tea ceremony.  We walked up an old, creaky and steep wooden staircase and into this tatami room where the tea ceremony would be held.  

This is Salon de Alice, a place where Japanese traditions like the tea ceremony and the art of wearing the kimono are taught.

An important part of the tea ceremony are the sweets eaten before tea is served.  

These Japanese sweets are generally called wagashi.  Because powdered Japanese green tea 

can be bitter, wagashi help lessen the bitterness and thus enhance the enjoyment of the drink.  

We are given omogashi -- made of glutinous rice wrapped around a sweet bean filling.   

Each one is different -- the pink one symbolises plum blossoms, the blue-green one stands for 

a pine tree and the translucent green sweet symbolises bamboo.  

They look so delicate and pretty but are really quite heavy and sweet  -- one is more than enough to quiet down my betsubara's sugar craving.

Using the small bamboo chopsticks, carefully take one sweet from the bowl and place it on the paper napkin in front of you.

Our tea master is a pleasant lady who is  also the kimono teacher of Salon de Alice.

The tea ceremony takes years and years of dedication and study.  One of my Japanese 

friends told me that she has been studying for twenty years and yet she still feels like a

novice in the art and way of preparing tea.  

Throughout the ceremony, Minako san translated what the master was saying, as she explained each step of the process. 

The cast iron kettle for boiling water is called the kama, the ceramic bowl in front of it contains water and is called the mizusashi.  Bamboo implements are also used like a small scoop for the powdered tea and a ladle to bring hot water from the kettle to the bowl.

The deliberate and measured steps of the tea ceremony are calming and quite relaxing.  

Even 5 year old Martina is quiet and attentive as she watches the tea being prepared.

It's audience participation time!  After we had all watched her prepare tea, the tea master invited us to try and make a cup for ourselves.  Carlo very gamely volunteered.  My legs had fallen fast asleep which always happens when I sit too long on the tatami mat.  I knew that if I tried to stand, I would fall over -- definitely a no-no in a formal tea ceremony.

For a first timer, I think Carlo did quite well.  He didn't commit any huge blunders that would have gotten us thrown out of Salon de Alice.

Jay drank all of his tea and found the face of a  woman at the bottom of his cup.  Can you see the black edge on the bowl which represents her hair.  This is the Lady Ofuku who is considered as a lucky charm.  The ofuku tea bowl is usually given to the guest of honour who will invariably smile when he sees her lovely face at the bottom of his bowl.

I am afraid we disrupted the genteel and elegant atmosphere of Salon de Alice with our gaijin giggles and lack of the necessary social graces.  Fortunately, our host and tea master was very understanding and amiable.  

The tea ceremony gave us a rare glimpse into a beautiful Japanese aesthetic that we felt fortunate to have been part of.

From osechi ryori to premium wagyu to this classic tea ceremony, today was truly a well rounded, well thought out and perfectly planned walking and eating tour.

Ookini Minako san, hona mata!

---

My Kyoto UNESCO World Heritage Sites Bucket List #15 Kozan-ji ... of tea plants, manga and St Francis of Assisi

February 1, 2016, 6:27 am

≫ Next: My UNESCO World Heritage Sites Bucket List #16 Saiho-ji aka Kokedera, the Moss Temple

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I go to Osaka for my stomach but I go to Kyoto for my soul. In Osaka I kui-daore or eat until
I am ruined.
If I tweak that word, and play fast and loose with the Japanese language, can I say that in Kyoto, I like to ji-daore, maybe tera-daore and yes also definitely,  jingu-daore.
Loosely translated (in my mind at least) it means that I go to temples or shrines until I am ruined. 

Kyoto has over 2,000 temples and shrines and 17 of those are UNESCO World Heritage Sites.
Since I first visited Kyoto, I have seen 14 of those world heritage sites and now, I have just 3 more to go.

On this visit, I resolved to finally visit all three.  Kozan-ji,Saiho-ji and Ujigami-jinja were the last world heritage sites remaining on my list.
So, on a cloudy and cold day last December,  we set off for the first two temples, along with favourite Tours by Locals guide and friend, Chieko san. She recommended we hire a van for the day as buses going to Kozan-ji and Saiho-ji are few and far between.

Our first stop was Kozan-ji,  located an hour from Kyoto centre.  Along with two other temples, it's 

situated in the valleys around  Takao Mountain.  The temple grounds are spread out over foothills, surrounded by centuries old trees. 

Originally established in the 8th century, the temple was restored by the monk Myoe in the 13th century and belongs to the Shingon sect of Buddhism. Myoe san was one of the great monks  during the Kamakura period.  He lived a devout and uncomplicated life,  dedicated to upholding the precepts of Shingon Buddhism.
Kozan-ji (and Myoe san) would give me some interesting discoveries today.

Chieko san led us to the start of what would be a steep climb up to the entrance of Kozan-ji. This is directly beside a parking lot so it is convenient for those who take private transport to the temple. 

We climb up and up and thank goodness for the bamboo handrails -- I have something to pull myself up with.

Midway through the climb, there is a small hut where you can stop and catch your breath.  

The stone steps lead us first to the doorway of the scripture hall or the Sekisui-in.  This simple wooden building is the only surviving original structure from the 1200s when Myoe san restored Kozan-ji.   The Sekusui-in is a designated National Treasure. While the rest of the temple grounds are free to walk around in, there is a 600 yen charge to enter the Sekusui-in.

Photographs of the Sekusui-in are not allowed but after removing your shoes and leaving them outside, you can walk on the ancient and unvarnished wooden floors.  A very peaceful moss garden can be viewed on one side of the building.  I sat down on the steps of the wrap around balcony,  keeping in mind that I was probably viewing a scene that Myoe san may have also enjoyed. 

The balcony which extends all around the wooden hall looks out on a marvellous view of trees and mountains.  I can imagine how glorious this must be during autumn since Takao is a prime koyo viewing destination in Kyoto.  But I rather like the stark and leaf-less view.  Anything more vivid would be a distraction to quiet contemplation.

Kozan-ji is most famous for one of its National Treasures -- four scrolls said to be the first ever manga drawn in Japan.  These scrolls called the Choju Jinbutsu Giga  show satirical drawings of animals engaged in human activity.  While it is forbidden to take photos of the replicas in the Sekusui-in  (the originals are in the National Museum in Tokyo),  here's a sample of a drawing taken from the scrolls which I found near the entrance to the temple grounds. You can see that even many centuries later, the drawings are of universal themes which one can still relate to.

From the Sekusui-in we climbed more steps to reach the other parts of the temple.
Chieko san showed us another reason why this temple is a designated world heritage site --
near these stone steps is the first and oldest tea plantation in Japan.

A stone marker is placed near the entrance to the small field where the monk Myoe planted tea seeds from China that would eventually become the first tea plants in Japan.

It is wonderful to see these tea plants, perhaps descended from those very first seeds that Myoe san planted.  This is the oldest tea field in the country and some say that the Japanese tea culture started here in Kozan-ji.

Uphill from the tea field, reachable by a flight of stone steps is the Gobyo, Myoe san's simple and unadorned grave.
The monk Myoe san was a nature lover as can be seen by the unspoilt and uncultivated beauty of his temple, Kozan-ji.
A brochure of Kozan-ji states that Myoe san could even"communicate" with animals and because of this,  he has been likened to St. Francis of Assisi.  It is probably not a coincidence that both these saints, albeit of different religions, lived during the same era.
I am astonished to learn that  Kozan-ji is recognized as a"sister"temple of  the Basilica of
St. Francis in Assisi.   Now who would have thought that I would find St. Francis'kindred
spirit here, on a Buddhist temple in Kyoto?

NB Like Kozan-ji, the Basilica of St. Francis in Assisi is also a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

There are many places for "walking meditation" along Kozan-ji.  The ascetic atmosphere is a natural aid for reflection.

Enshrined in a small hut is the Bussoku-seki, carved footprints of the Buddha.  

Towards the top of the temple grounds,  at the highest level is the Kondo or the main hall.  Dating back to the 1600s, this is newer than the Sekusui-in and replaced an original structure which had burned down.

I look up and wonder what kind of animal is carved on the entrance to the Kondo. Is it a lion,  a dragon or is it a wild boar?  

From the Kondo,  steep stone steps lead  down to the exit of Kozan-ji.   Massive trees line
every step of the way.  The air is chilly and scented with the fresh smells of the forest -- of
pine needles, cedar trees and yes even the damp sweetish smell of decaying leaves.

Kozan-ji's natural and rugged setting makes it one of my favourites.  Its quiet and enduring appeal lies in its vastness and tranquility.  I  half expect to come upon the monk Myoe, walking about -- tending to his tea plants and doing mountain meditation.

NB Thank you to my husband Jay and son Gani for some of the photos used in this post.

My UNESCO World Heritage Sites Bucket List #16 Saiho-ji aka Kokedera, the Moss Temple

February 8, 2016, 7:33 am

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Japanese gardens are amazing, lovely places.  There are certain features that are traditionally present like stones and rocks, water, plants and trees, gravel and sand.  Put together under the gardener's expert mastery,  these elements become ponds, mountains, hills, forests... entire landscapes.  
A Japanese garden is a microcosm of nature.

After our morning in Kozan-ji in the Takao mountain area, we drove to the foothills of Arashiyama where we had a 1:00 p.m. appointment at Saiho-ji Temple.  This is the road leading to the entrance.  

A very clean and clear creek runs alongside it, serving as a natural moat that separates the temple from the road. 

The entrance to Saiho-ji is marked by this sign.  It is the only one of the 17 UNESCO World Heritage Sites in Kyoto that requires prior reservations.  

Since visitors are limited to 100 a day, it is best to reserve a few weeks in advance and to state alternate dates just in case the temple is full on your desired date.  

I had asked Chieko san to secure the reservations for us more than a month prior to our trip. 

But because it is late December and close to the New Year,  there are less than 100 guests on the day we visit although  I imagine that reservations would be harder to come by during peak seasons such as spring or autumn.

This is the main hall or the Hondo.  Before touring the gardens, everyone is asked to take part in 

the  kito or sutra chanting led by the temple's priests.  Again, this is different from other UNESCO World Heritage sites where the practice is not de rigueur for visitors. 

Putting on slippers and leaving our shoes outside, we entered and took our places on the floor. 

I find it very difficult to sit lotus style and had to shift my weight several times during the fifteen minute sutra chanting,  silently willing my bones not to creak.  

Thank goodness we were not asked to do shakyo or sutra copying as that would have meant a longer time sitting on the floor.  But we were all  given small wooden plaques to write prayer requests on.  

These wooden plaques would be burned later on during the goma or fire ritual.   Our collective prayers and petitions would float up in smoke to heaven.

After the kito is performed, we return our slippers, retrieve our shoes and head out for the garden.   See how neat the Japanese are.  Everyone has lined up the slippers in an orderly way in front of the hall, ready for tomorrow's guests.

Saiho-ji's main draw is its fabulous moss garden, perhaps the most famous moss garden in Japan.  

It is also popularly called Koke-dera,  which literally means "moss temple". But even before I 

have set foot in the moss garden, this beautifully landscaped area in front of the main hall holds 

my attention.

February or late winter is when plum trees blossom in Kyoto.  This one fine specimen seemed to be sprouting buds in late December.  Standing alone amidst evergreen perennials,  it must be a show stopper when the flowers are in full bloom.

Moss covered earth lines the entry to the moss garden, which lies just beyond the hedges. 

Saiho-ji was established  in the 700s and later restored by the famous Zen monk and noted garden designer,  Muso Soseki in the 1300s.   While he was responsible for other temple gardens like the one in Tenryu-ji  (another UNESCO World Heritage site),  it is Koke-dera that is acknowledged as his masterpiece.

The garden is beautifully laid out over several hectares, most of it around a still pond. 

Moss grows everywhere -- between the stones on the path,  on the ground,  between the trees and 

on the trees.  

I can understand why the temple allows only one hundred visitors a day and why 

they charge such a high entrance fee. (3,000 yen compared to 500 yen other temples normally charge).    

Hundreds of visitors mindlessly tramping about (and yes, taking selfies)  would definitely cause damage to the garden.  

Soseki san has masterfully fused all  elements -- creating an ever changing vista. 

I may be restricted to walking along on just the narrow pathway,  but I can fully appreciate the expansiveness of his design.

A small tea house with a simple wooden balcony is strategically placed by the centre of the garden.  Built in the 1500s I can imagine the temple's esteemed guests sitting here, sipping their tea and quietly enjoying their privileged view of Soseki san's moss garden.

And if you happened to be sitting on the tea house, this would be your view.  Today everything is monochromatic, in various shades of green but during fall, the maple and other deciduous trees 

would be in their full red, yellow and orange regalia.

A small island in the middle of the pond can be reached by a wood and stone bridge almost completely overrun by moss.  An island is an integral part of most Japanese ponds and are used to add meaning and symbolism to the garden.

The moss garden has so many facets.  Small things are hidden from view which when revealed 

added another meaning or layer to what I felt the garden was trying to say to me.

As I walked around,  I remembered another favourite Zen garden, the kare-sansui or dry garden 

of Ryoanji.  I realised that both are ideal places for contemplation.  The main difference is,  in 

Ryoan-ji,  you sit in one spot and meditate while in Saiho-ji,  you can meander, walk and stroll in solitary reflection.

While Saiho-ji is most renowned for its moss, Soseki san had planned a traditional garden using 

the main elements of water, stones, rocks and plants.  Through the centuries, because of the wet 

and humid weather, over one hundred varieties of moss slowly flourished and grew all over the garden.  In my mind, Soseki-san may have designed Koke-dera's garden  but Mother Nature,  

ichiban Gardener,  made it what it is today.

Even Soseki-san's carefully chosen rocks and stones are covered with different kinds of moss.  Chieko san mentioned that some gardeners have actually proposed removing the moss from 

Koke-dera so that the true art and beauty of Soseki-san's garden could be exposed.  

They believe that the garden would be even more magnificent if they could see Soseki san's 

original concept and design. However, Chieko san did say she believed nothing would come out 

of that proposal.  

I would definitely not support that idea.  I love how the moss creeps along, creating different textures and shapes on the ground.  Little globes of green velvet are strewn about and while you may think that moss grows anywhere and everywhere, they are quite hard to cultivate and "tame".

A small wooden gate marks the end of the moss garden.  Pass through this and your sins will be forgiven.

Stone and wood steps lead the visitor to the upper garden of Saiho-ji.

More moss covers the ground between ancient trees, their trunks coloured green by moss.

The upper garden is a dry garden or kare-sansui where large rocks have been purposefully placed 

so as to evoke certain scenes.

This part of Saiho-ji has a different ambience.  Rocks and stones are placed on varying levels and 

seem to go all the way up to the woods until I cannot determine where the forest begins or where 

the garden ends.   I could sit amidst these rocks for hours.

I wish I had that kind of time to spend in Saiho-ji.  We arrived just before 1 p.m. and before I knew it, it was  4 p.m. and the last few guests are being politely ushered out through the gates. 

As a UNESCO World Heritage site, Saiho-ji or Koke-dera is unique and remarkable.   

I am thankful for this rare opportunity to visit the temple and experience its calm and tranquil heart.  

My time spent here was truly another gift of grace from Buddha.

NB Thank you to my husband Jay and son Gani for photos 2 and 3.  

To secure reservations for Saiho-ji, please note the instructions stated on photo 2.

Post # 400 - Tororo Soba at Koke-no-Chaya

February 9, 2016, 4:13 am

≫ Next: Finishing my Kyoto UNESCO World Heritage Sites Bucket List #17 Ujigami jinja

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Four hundred posts!  I can't believe that what started as a "digital" experiment has lasted this long (six years and counting).  Thank you to friends and relatives who read this blog (yes, all seven of you).  Blogging is the perfect way to remember places I have been to,  food I have enjoyed and experiences that have moved me.

This 400th post may be a bit ironic.  There is no pig or pork at all -- this is about an almost vegetarian noodle dish that I enjoyed during my recent trip to Kyoto.

Koke-no-chaya is a soba restaurant that has long been a familiar feature on the road going to the  Saiho-ji Temple, more popularly known as Koke-dera.  

Koke means moss and chaya is a resting place or a tea house where travellers could relax and take a snack or a meal.

From the looks of this black and white photo,  Koke-no-chaya has been around for quite a number of years. 

I love that the restaurant still looks very much like the the original in the photo above.  The wooden sign on top of the doorway is the very same one in the photo.  One notable change perhaps would be the giant ice cream cone that stands on one corner.  Koke-no-chaya must 

sell a lot of soft serve matcha (green tea) ice cream  during the hot summer months.

A menu board in front of the restaurant shows the various soba dishes available, interspersed with photos of its famous neighbours, the temples Saiho-ji, or Koke-dera, Jizo-in and Kegon-ji.

Right outside the restaurant are some low tables where diners can eat while viewing the 

rather unruly but utterly charming pocket garden.  Since it's winter time there are no takers, 

not in this chilly 5C weather.

The interiors are appealing and homey, fusing both old and new.  Photos and notes from famous personalities are framed on the walls, old baskets hang from the aged wooden rafters and a cast iron tea kettle is suspended over an electric fire.  

Portable heaters provide much needed warmth and there are several photo albums filled with magazine and newspaper articles about Koke-no-chaya. 

Here's a multi tasking heater that also serves as a warmer for the teapot.

We are served hot mugicha or roasted barley tea, poured into squat round bowls.  Each sip warms me all the way down to my toes.

Koke-no-chaya is a soba restaurant -- the buckwheat noodles are handmade right in the restaurant's kitchen.   You can have plain soba, hot or cold and a few other simple dishes.  

The cheerfully bustling okamisan (lady owner) who waits on all the tables encourages us to order their specialty, tororo soba and naturally, we are happy to oblige.

As we wait for our orders, I peek into the kitchen at the back.  Koke-no-chaya is not exactly a small restaurant,  I would peg it at a 30 seater so I am quite impressed when I see that 

aside from the okamisan (who is already of a "certain age") there are only two other people helping her run the entire place.  

There is the white-haired chef (who I presume is her husband) and a lady who washes the dishes.   The restaurant runs smoothly --  and the okamisan is even able to keep up a running conversation with her guests as she goes to and from the kitchen carrying everyone's orders.

And this is Koke-no-chaya's pièce de resistance, its tokubetsu-na ippin or house special.  

Tororo soba is a traditional way to eat buckwheat noodles.  Tororo is grated, almost pureed sticky mountain yam that is placed on top of a bowl of hot or cold soba noodles.   

My steaming hot bowl of soba comes with a raw egg placed right in the middle of the grated yam.   A sprinkling of dried seaweed flakes completes Koke-no-chaya's tororo soba.

The okamisan told us that the dark green seaweed is evocative of Koke-dera's moss garden that 

we would soon visit after our lunch.

NB This dish is also known as tsukimi tororo soba or moon watching soba, an aptly descriptive name.  

After mixing everything together -- tororo, raw egg,  dashi broth and soba, we enjoy our 

quick, delicious and filling lunch.

Bowls of soba finished, we head off for our 1:00 p.m. appointment to view the moss garden at Koke-dera.    Koke-no-chaya certainly lived up to its name as a place where travellers can take their ease, relax and have a good meal.

The okamisan accompanies us out the door and stands by the side of the road waving good bye. 

My tummy is warm with the tororo soba but my heart is even warmer with her kind and gracious farewell. 

Finishing my Kyoto UNESCO World Heritage Sites Bucket List #17 Ujigami jinja

February 14, 2016, 7:18 am

≫ Next: Kyoto's 17 UNESCO World Heritage Sites

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A few days before the year ended,  one of my "quests" ended too.   I was able to accomplish my goal of visiting all 17 UNESCO World Heritage sites in Kyoto. It took me more than three years but I finally did it ... and yes, it was all worth it.

Ujigami jinja, the last remaining site that I needed to visit is located in Uji,  11 kilometres
or twenty minutes away from Kyoto Station via the Rapid express.  Uji is also home to 
Byodo-in, another UNESCO World Heritage site that I had visited last year.

From the train station,  it's a pleasant 15 minute stroll to Uji-bashi, the bridge that spans the
Uji-gawa.  At the foot of the bridge is a statue of Murasaki Shikibu, who wrote what many
say is the world's first ever novel,  The Tale of the Genji.
I find it fascinating that the first ever novelist was a woman, and an Asian at that.
Uji is the setting for much of the last part of the novel so you will see many references to
The Genji as you walk around the town.

A wooden marker by the bridge talks about Uji-bashi's history.  This is one of the oldest bridges in Japan. It was originally built in the 600s but because of floods, earthquakes, fires and other calamities, it has been re-built many times.  It's too bad that the bridge is undergoing repairs this time so I was not able to take a nice photo.

Wooden handrails line the sides of the bridge.  Uji-bashi links the north and south sides of Uji 
and is an important thoroughfare in town.  Our destination for today is located on the north side of the river. 

I see familiar looking ornaments on the handrails.  These are called giboshi and can be seen
only in historical and culturally important structures like shrines, temples and bridges. 

To get to Ujigami jinja you walk through another shrine called the Uji jinja.  
You might be misled into thinking you have reached your destination because of the name and the impressive red torii that marks the long and rather grand entrance.  But, this is a different place altogether.

There is signboard in English that will tell you where to go. Ujigami jinja is further on.

It's a short walk along a quiet and empty street -- everyone must be busy preparing for oshogatsu or new year.  Another large red torii is up ahead and this time, this is indeed the entrance to Ujigami jinja.

Time to stop and take a photo of this "momentous" (to me, at least) occasion.
This is Meiko san, my dear best friend who lives in Kyoto.  I am grateful that despite her busy schedule, she makes time to see me.  Her friendship and time are generously shared and a day spent with her is always a happy and enriching experience.

The UNESCO World Heritage site marker is placed by the shrine entrance.
You can see from the map that the shrine occupies a rather small area.  Ujigami jinja sits right at the foot  of Mount Mitaku. 

This is the haiden or worship hall where shrine visitors can enter and pray to the deity.  

This haiden is the oldest existing example of this type of shrine building in Japan.  If I did not know about its world heritage status,  I would not think that this simple and rather plain wooden structure would be so culturally and historically significant.

On either side of the haiden are perfect cones of sand used in the shrine's purification rituals.  These remind me of the ones that I  saw at the Kamigamo Shrine in Kyoto, also a UNESCO World Heritage site.  

The cones are enclosed with rice straw ropes called shimenawa from which shide or zigzag cut paper are hung.  The shimenawa and shide designate sacred areas and are also meant to ward off  evil spirits and demons.

Ujigami jinja is blessed with a free flowing spring which Meiko san told me is the shrine's temizuya or purification area.
You enter the small shed to perform misogi or the traditional purification ritual.
First, scoop the water using the ladle conveniently provided. Wash your left hand first,
then your right hand then rinse your mouth.  The water is crystal clear and bitingly cold.
Misogi is a ritual I have performed many times but this is the first time I have done it while standing directly over the water source itself.  I am careful not to slide on the slippery stone steps and fall into the spring.

Behind the haiden is the Kasuga Jinja Honden built a few hundred years after. 

This small shrine building is also designated as an Important Cultural Property.

And here is Ujigami jinja's honden or main hall.  Along with the haiden,  this honden is the oldest example of this type of architecture, dating back to the Heian period.  These two buildings are what have earned the shrine its  World Heritage Site status.

Unlike the haiden, visitors are never allowed to enter the honden, as this is where the deity 

is enshrined and is the most sacred and holy place in the shrine.  Visitors can climb all the way to the top of the short stone steps and pray to the deity but that is as far as one can go.

As you can see from the photo, the honden is not very big and it is almost backed up all the 

way to the edge of Mount Mitaku -- there is nothing but trees and woods behind it. 

In Shinto, the deity is not a saint or a figure like Buddha.  Shinto deities are called kami 
and are parts of nature such as wind, sun, trees, mountains ... and yes, rocks and stones.
Near the honden, we found this shimenawa enclosed rock with many small pebbles
piled up on top.
It brought to mind the "stones of sorrow" that pilgrims along the Camino de Santiago
would place on the roadside cruceiros or crosses.   They were meant to symbolise a burden
or problem and by "leaving"them behind,  it meant that you starting anew and leaving past heartaches behind.

I told Meiko san about the "stones of sorrow".   We decided to place our own little 

pebbles on the rock but instead of "stones of sorrow", we said we would call them "stones of remembrance".

Here is the pebble I placed on the rock (encircled in red)  -- more than a "stone of remembrance",  it signifies gratitude.  Apart from the many blessings in my life,  I am
thankful that I have accomplished my Kyoto UNESCO World Heritage sites bucket
list.  It also seems appropriate and noteworthy that my task ended here in Ujigami jinja,
in one of Japan's oldest Shinto shrines.

Kyoto's 17 UNESCO World Heritage Sites

February 27, 2016, 10:17 pm

≫ Next: Temple Hopping by Taxi in Kyoto : to Ryoan-ji, Shogunzuka and Chion-in

≪ Previous: Finishing my Kyoto UNESCO World Heritage Sites Bucket List #17 Ujigami jinja

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It took me more than three years but I finally managed to complete visiting all of Kyoto's 
17 UNESCO World Heritage Sites.
Save for one, all are temples (identified by the suffix -in, -dera or -ji) or Shinto shrines
(identified by the suffix -jinja).   All are easy to get to and most are within the city limits,
accessible by bus, subway  or train.
The easy way to take the bus is to go to Kyoto Station where you can find bus stops marked in english for the most popular tourist destinations.
And dear reader, I googled so you wouldn't have to and have included bus, train and subway information in this post.

 

Here is a map that I found in the Welcome to Kyoto web page.  (http://www.pref.kyoto.jp/visitkyoto/en/theme/sites/shrines/w_heritage/)
that shows 16 of the 17 sites.   Enryaku-ji in Mt. Hiei is  the only one that is not shown as it is in
the northeast part of Kyoto, almost at the border of the prefecture.

1. Kiyomizu-dera

Kyoto has many mountains and on top of one of them is the temple Kiyomizu-dera.  It is most famous
for the wooden balcony that juts out from the main hall, giving you an astonishing view of Kyoto.
From this balcony,  you will see masses of cherry blossoms during spring and red maple leaves during fall.  Don't miss a stroll through the picturesque streets of Ninen-zaka  and Sannen-zaka 
after your visit to the temple.
To get to Kiyomizu-dera, take city bus #100 or 206 in front of Kyoto Station and get off at Gojo-zaka or Kiyomizu-michi bus stop. 

2. Ryoan-ji

This has to be the most photographed and famous karesansui or "dry landscape" garden not just
in Kyoto but perhaps all of Japan.  This peaceful and serene Zen temple with its rock garden is conducive to meditation, as long as you visit very early, before the tourist buses arrive.

I suggest you visit Ryoan-ji together with Kinkaku-ji as the two World Heritage sites are just a 20 minute stroll away from each other.

3. Kinkaku-ji

Tourist guides say that Kinkaku-ji, also called the Golden Pavilion is one of the " Big 3" 
must-sees in Kyoto.  Painted with rich gold leaf, it sits in the middle of a pond,  its mirror image
on the still green water,  burning its image on your mind's eye.

To get to Kinkaku-ji, take bus #59, 100 or 205 from Kyoto Station for the Kinkakuji-michi bus stop.

4. Tenryu-ji

Tenryu-ji is a Zen temple in Arashiyama.  Most of the temple's buildings from the 1300s have 

been rebuilt because of fire, earthquakes and other calamities but its gorgeous garden featuring 

all the beautiful elements of the traditional Japanese landscape garden has survived in all its 

quiet elegance.

To visit Tenryu-ji, take the JR Sagano Line and get off at  Saga - Arashiyama station.  The temple
is a ten minute walk away.  While you're in the area,  take a walk through Arashiyama's famous 

bamboo forest,  which is just behind the temple.

5. Ginkaku-ji

Lush greenery and gardens surround the simple but splendid wooden pavilion of Ginkaku-ji 

also called the Silver Pavilion.  Located in the hills of Higashiyama,  you can catch a glimpse
of the city below when you climb up the winding wooded path.  A visit to Ginkaku-ji is best
paired with a leisurely meander along the Philosopher's Path, one of Kyoto's prettiest walking
areas. Take  bus # 5, 17 or 100 to Ginkaku-ji,  and the temple is a 5 minute walk from
Ginkakuji-mae bus stop.

6. Nishi Hongwan-ji

There are two temples beside each other called the Hongwan-ji -- Nishi and Higashi.
The main attractions are the immense wooden buildings, the Goei-do and the Amida-do.
Both temples are just a few minutes walk from Kyoto Station.  From the station's front entrance, facing Kyoto Tower, just walk straight through to Karasuma-dori and turn left at Shichijo.

7. To-ji

This Shingon temple has deep connections to my favourite Buddhist saint Kobo Daishi who
used to be the temple's abbot.  The towering five story wooden pagoda is the tallest in Japan and
can be seen from various areas of Kyoto.
To-ji also hosts a monthly flea market on the 21st (the day of the saint's birthday) where I find all sorts of irresistible stuff  (or "dust gatherers" as my husband calls them).  

From Kyoto Station, To-ji is a leisurely 30 minute walk (2 kilometres) or a quick 10 minute  ride on bus #202, 207 or 208. You will get off right at the temple entrance. 

8. Ninna-ji

This Shingon temple was founded in the ninth century by a Japanese emperor who later abdicated to become a monk and then went on to become Ninna-ji's abbot.  Talk about a 

career shift!

Ninna-ji is popular during sakura season because of its late blooming omuro sakura.  

A view of the temple's pagoda framed by cherry blossoms is a sight not to be missed.

Ninna-ji is accessible via bus #59 (which also passes through Ryoan-ji and Kinkaku-ji)

9. Enryaku-ji on Mt. Hiei

The only world heritage site that is quite a distance from the city,  the temple complex of 

Enryaku-ji is located on Mt. Hiei, almost at the northeastern border of Kyoto prefecture.
Temple buildings are spread over the mountain with the main buildings located in the Todo area.
Be ready for steep climbs and long walks. 

We got lost on the way to Enryaku-ji so make sure you get on the right train.  The JR Kosei Line 
will take you to the Hieizan/Sakamoto station where you take a bus to go to the cable car that will take you up the mountain.
To go back to Kyoto, take the bus for a slightly longer but no-transfers-trip.

10. Kamigamo jinja 

Kyoto's oldest shrine is near the banks of the Kamogawa.  The entrance is marked by a huge torii which leads the visitor through a surprisingly wide expanse of lawn.  The clear and shallow
Omonoi stream flows serenely through the shrine grounds.
Bus #4 from Kyoto Station will drop you across at Kamigamojinja-mae and from there, you cross the bridge over the Kamogawa to get to the shrine.

11. Shimogamo jinja

Shimogamo-jinja and Kamigamo-jinja are known as the  Kamo shrines because of their proximity
to the Kamogawa or the Kamo River.  It is therefore convenient and efficient to visit both on the
same day.  The Shimogamo abuts an ancient forest right within the city.  It's an ideal place for a
quiet and peaceful walk.

To get to Shimogamo from Kamigamo-jinja, wait outside the shrine at the bus stop for bus #4 and
get off at Shimogamojinja-mae bus stop. 

12. Byodo-in

This magnificent  temple is depicted on the ubiquitous 10 yen coin. Gorgeous Phoenix Hall houses
a golden statue of Amida Buddha.  There is also a gem of a modern underground museum where
the temple's treasures are on display.

Byodo-in is located in Uji, a 15 minute ride away from Kyoto Station via the Rapid Express of the JR Nara Line.

13. Nijojo

Among Kyoto's 17 world heritage sites, only Tokugawa Ieyasu's castle is neither a temple nor a
shrine.   Aside from the very well maintained palace building (with its squeaking "nightingale
floors")  there is a lovely traditional garden and a moat that thoroughly surrounds the palace walls.  During sakura season,  Nijojo is a prime tourist destination for its shidare sakura or weeping cherry blossom trees.

To get to Nijojo, take the Tozai subway line and get off at Nijojo-mae station. 

14. Daigo-ji

The entrance to Daigo-ji is marked by masses of sakura trees which makes it a very popular springtime destination.  The temple grounds sprawl over an entire mountain -- with buildings
on the lower and on the upper parts.  Daigo-ji's very ancient wooden pagoda is Kyoto's oldest building and its main hall or Kondo is a National Treasure.

Like Nijojo, Daigo-ji is on the Tozai subway line. Get off at Daigo Station.

15. Kozan-ji

While many of the shrines and temples are located near or on mountains themselves, to my mind Kozan-ji is the perfect example of a mountain temple.  It exudes a primordial, peaceful air and seemingly blends in with the centuries old forest of Mount Takao. 

Interesting bit of trivia ... Kozan-ji is a "sister temple" of the Basilica of St. Francis of Assisi,
reason enough to go out of your way and visit this place.

Kozan-ji is best accessed by JR Bus bound for Takao. Get off at the Toganoo bus stop, closest to
the temple entrance. It takes an hour from Kyoto Station to Kozan-ji by bus.

16. Saiho-ji  (Koke-dera)

This unique and certainly most expansive moss garden in Kyoto requires reservations 

made well ahead of your planned visit.   Visitors to the temple and garden are limited to just 100
per day so you are assured of a quiet and contemplative stroll through one of the most remarkable Japanese gardens you will ever see.

You can take bus #73 or 83 from Kyoto Station to Kokedera Suzumushidera bus stop. In normal traffic conditions, the trip takes almost an hour.

17. Ujigami-jinja

And finally, I saved the oldest for last.  The Honden of Ujigami-jinja is recognised as the oldest existing example of Heian type shrine architecture.  The shrine is simple, unostentatious and set
in a surprisingly small area -- many have remarked that this ancient shrine does not seem like a
world heritage site.
Ujigami-jinja is located in Uji, a fifteen minute train ride out of Kyoto Station on the JR Nara Line.
It is across the Ujigawa from Byodo-in and a visit to both world heritage sites plus a stroll around pleasant and picture-pretty Uji is a good way to spend a day out of Kyoto.

Just to wrap up this extraordinary experience, please indulge my attempt at a haiku --

Seventeen moments

Open the mind to reflect

Buddha's gifts of grace

And as they say in Nihongo ...

Owari (the end).

NB My favourites among these 17 sites are Byodo-in (loveliest),  Ryoan-ji (most thought provoking) and Kozan-ji (most austere).

Temple Hopping by Taxi in Kyoto : to Ryoan-ji, Shogunzuka and Chion-in

March 4, 2016, 8:50 am

≫ Next: The Who, What, Where, Why and How of the Camino de Santiago in 2015

≪ Previous: Kyoto's 17 UNESCO World Heritage Sites

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December 30 was our last whole day in Kyoto and I felt that I had not yet reached my temple quota.  So, while everyone else did their last minute shopping,  I hied off to go temple hopping.
As I was standing at the hotel entrance contemplating whether I would be frugal and take a bus or extravagant and splurge for a taxi -- a cab stopped right in front of me and the driver opened the door.  I took it as a sign and hopped right in.
And so this is how I met Kido san,Buddha's gift to me that day.

Kido san retired from an automotive parts company and has been driving his cab in Kyoto for less than five years. 

We started our conversation in Nihongo but I soon realised that he could speak pretty good english.  He was truly sent to me by Buddha!

I asked him to take me to my first stop,  Ryoan-ji and as we continued to talk,  I mentioned that 

I  also planned  to visit Chion-in, which is quite a bit of distance away. 

Kido san offered to wait for me at Ryoan-ji,  and recommended a stop at Shogunzuka to visit the Seiryuden before finally taking me to Chion-in. 

Taxi fares are expensive in Japan but since I just had a few hours to spare,  I agreed to 

Kido san's time saving suggestion. 

My first stop was Ryoan-ji,  my favourite temple in Kyoto.  I had never been to Ryoan-ji so early in the morning and today, it was a pleasant surprise to find hardly anyone around.

I took my time by Ryoan-ji's beautiful pond Oshidori-ike, basking in the lovely tranquil scene.

The heart of Ryoan-ji is the rock garden where 15 stones await the visitor who will never ever get to see all of them at one glance.  Aside from the temple employees walking quietly around, I was the only one at the viewing balcony and relished this rare solitude -- surely this moment was another gift from Buddha.

It was hard to leave Ryoan-ji but when the first tour group clattered noisily in,  I knew it was time to go.
From Ryoan-ji, Kido san drove to Higashiyama, to a sub-temple of Shoren-in  on Shogunzuka Mound.  He highly recommended that I visit this place because of the view from the observation deck which he said was much better than the view from the balcony of Kiyomizu-dera.
To get to Shogunzuka, we drove up a winding road where no city buses go.  So unless you have
a car or are willing to walk uphill for an hour, a taxi is the only way to get to the top.

This is the Seiryuden Temple Hall on Shogunzuka which is used for religious services 

and ceremonies.

Inside, Seiryuden is cavernous and almost completely empty.  There is a small room at the very end where a large painting of Fudo Myoo in all his fierce and fearsome glory is displayed.

While Kido san did tell me about the observation deck behind Seiryuden, I was still surprised when I  rounded the corner and came upon this vast wooden balcony that seemed to stretch out into the horizon.

This is the North Observation deck of Shogunzuka. Amidst the expanse of the unvarnished wooden floor stands an ultra modern version of a classic tea house.  It is made entirely of clear glass with very little metal support.  There are glass benches around it which on this cold winter morning are covered by a thin dusting of last night's frost.  

This tea house is designed by Japanese artist Yoshioka Tokujin was done to commemorate the 50th anniversary of the sister city relationship between Kyoto and Florence, Italy. This tea house will be on exhibit here until April 2016.

The North Observation Deck is practically empty save for a few visitors -- and almost all are Japanese.  We are all in awe of the view that is laid out in front of us. And what a surprise --
not a single person took a selfie.
I breathed a silent thanks to Buddha for keeping this place free from the tour bus hordes.  But honestly I don't know why this is off Kyoto's tourist track.

It's a gorgeous, nearly unobstructed view of  Kyoto on a bright, clear and cold day.  I wonder if  that mountain on the second to the right is Mt.  Hiei, it sort of looks like it and if my bearings are correct, I could be right.   I felt like I was suspended up in the air,  floating above the city.

This is a scale model of the structure of the North Observation Deck.  Standing more than 200 meters above,   it is certainly the best spot to look out over Kyoto.   And yes, Kido san was right, the view is much better than that of Kiyomizu-dera's.

From Shogunzuka, it took less than ten minutes to reach Chion-in, also known as the "Vatican" of Jodo or Pure Land Buddhism in Japan.  This massive and impressive wooden gate is the temple's official entrance, the Sanmon.  Built in the 1600s, the Sanmon is one of the biggest wooden gates in Japan and is a National Treasure.

It may look like an easy way up but this stone staircase leading up to the temple's main buildings is a challenging climb.  From the photo, it looks like it is neither steep nor high  but I can assure you it is both.  Each stone step is also higher than normal so my thigh muscles were practically screaming when I finally reached the top.  

Once you get to the top, head towards the information booth where you can get a map of the temple grounds. Chion-in has over 100 buildings so it's good to know what to see and where to go. The information booth is also where I got a temple seal for my shuin-cho.

Just past the information booth is a red two story pagoda and beside it is the Amida-do, the hall where visitors can find the statue of the Amida Buddha, who promises compassion and salvation.  I bow and quietly recite the nembutsu,Namu Amida Butsu before I continue on my way.

The Miei-do,  Chion-in's main hall is the most important building in the temple grounds.  This is where you can find a statue of the founder of Jodo Buddhism, the monk Honen.  The Miei-do has been under renovation for the past four years and is not expected to be finished until 2019.
I look forward to seeing its full grandeur when renovation is finally completed.

I walk through the grounds to the back of the Miei-do and place an incense stick on the burner that guards the entrance to the Kyozo or the sutra repository.

To the side of the Miei-do is the Hobutsuden where some services are held.

One of the attractions of Chion-in is its gigantic bronze bell, one of the most famous bells in  Japan.  My thigh muscles and hamstrings cringe when they see the stone steps leading up to the bell tower but thankfully this is not as high nor as steep as the staircase at the entrance of the temple.

This is the giant bell called the Ogane housed inside the Daishoro or bell tower.  This bell is rung 108 times  at midnight on New Year's eve, to signify the 108 human sins.  I hope that one day, I can be here on New Year's eve to hear it rung.

Time to leave the centre of Pure Land Buddhism. 
Experience has taught me that for hillside or mountain attractions in Japan,  if there is a steep or difficult way up, there is almost always a gradual and sedate option to go down.
Tucked away on one side near the main entrance is this wide and broad staircase that leads back down to street level.
This will also take you by the Yuzen-en Garden which is open to the public but sadly I did not have time for a visit today.

 Kido san and I said our farewells here at Chion-in. From the temple,  it is just a 2-minute walk to Maruyama Park and from there a short and lovely stroll to Gion where I caught a bus back to the hotel.
It was a morning well and efficiently spent.  Thanks to Kido san and his recommended route,
I was able to visit not just two temples as I had originally planned but I discovered a third one, with an amazing view of Kyoto.
It was the perfect way to wind down this year-end trip. 

Domo arigato gozaimashita, Kido san! Hona mata!

P.S

This is Kido san'smeishi or business card.  Next time you travel to Kyoto, you may want to call him to take you around the city.  He knows the temples and shrines of Kyoto very well.
And unless you are using a local phone, don't forget to add +81-75, the country code for Japan and the area code for Kyoto.

The Who, What, Where, Why and How of the Camino de Santiago in 2015

March 5, 2016, 5:02 am

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In June 2015,  Jay and I checked off the Camino from our (short) bucket list.  We walked a
portion of the Camino Frances together with our friends, the Amigos de Santiago.  

Since that time, I have tried to keep up with Camino news and continue to be interested in what's happening along the way.  Who knows, we may just do the Camino again.

A very good source of information on the Camino is the official website of the Pilgrims' Office in Santiago de Compostela .   The photo above shows their old office in 2015,  they have since moved to a much bigger and better space. 

The Pilgrims' Office regularly releases statistics about the Camino through their website at 

http://peregrinossantiago.es  

The figures stated below are taken from their 2015 annual report. 

And because we did our Camino in 2015,  the Amigos de Santiago are part of the official statistics. 

I hope that after reading this post, you'll be encouraged to walk the way of St. James. 

1. How many pilgrims walked the Camino in 2015

According to the website  262,459 pilgrims walked the Camino de Santiago in 2015.  This is 

up from the 2014 figures of 237,886.   It's nice to see pilgrim numbers growing.  Of this total,

236, 716 or 90% did the Camino the old fashioned way -- they walked.

Bicigrinos or bicycle riding pilgrims numbered 25, 346 or just 9%.  

2.  The Gender Split

Women were slightly outnumbered by men on the Camino in 2015 --  123,530 women versus  138,929 men (47% versus 53%).

3. Age doesn't matter on the Camino

Our little group of peregrinos spanned the age ranges tracked by statistics.  While we did not have any one below 30,  the Amigos were in their 30s, 40s, 50s and 60s.  

Pilgrims in the below 30 age range numbered 74,691 or 29%.  

Pilgrims from 30 to 60 comprised the largest group at 144,031 or 55%.  

And just to show that age shouldn't deter you from doing the Camino, the 60+ age group numbered 43,737 or 16% of the total number.   I saw many senior citizens walking the Camino, as a matter of fact, most of them walked much faster than me!

I would say that the Amigos hewed to the demographic split as most of us were also in the 30 to 60 age group.

4. Top Three Pilgrim Groups

As can be expected, 122,387 or 47% of the pilgrims came from Spain.  

Next are the Italians - 22,148 or 16% followed by the Germans at 18,869 or 13%.
The Americans are in fourth place with 13,669 pilgrims.  

While we did meet Filipinos and other Asians along the way -- like this Japanese couple who had done the Camino twice -- Asians are not on the top 10 list of pilgrims as of 2015. 

5. Young people on the Camino

We frequently ran into school groups with student pilgrims walking along the Camino.  

They were often noisy and full of energy (as young people normally are), but it was gratifying 

to see so many teen-agers doing a centuries old pilgrimage.   

Statistics show that 50,479 or 19% of total pilgrims in 2015 were students.

6. Point of Origin

Sarria, 112 km from Santiago de Compostela was where 67,406 or 25% of the pilgrims started their Camino from.  Sarria is ideal for those who do not have the time to walk the entire distance of more than 700 kilometres. If you are a strong and fast walker,  you can walk the 112 km in just 4 or 5 days. 

On the other hand, 31,053 pilgrims (12%) who had more time and resources to complete the entire walk started off from the French town of St. Jean Pied-de-Port, across the Pyrenees.
St. Jean Pied-de-Port is the official starting point of the Camino Frances.

As for the Amigos, we walked 130 kilometres from Triacastela to Santiago de Compostela.  

We were part of the 2,213 pilgrims who started from this small Galician village.

7.  The road most travelled 

In 2015 the Amigos, along with 172,206 or 66% of total pilgrims walked along the UNESCO World Heritage route, the Camino Frances.   This was followed by the  Camino Portugues which had 43,137 pilgrims or 16%.  The third most travelled way with 15,826 pilgrims or 6% was the Northern Camino, which passes through San Sebastian,Bilbao and the Basque coastline.  

8.  Reasons for doing the Camino

When I went to get my compostela at the Pilgrims' Office, they asked me (as they do with all peregrinos),   what was my reason for walking the way.  

 Of the total for 2015,  38% or  99,681 cited religious reasons for doing the Camino.

However,  141,969 pilgrims or or 54%  cited religious / cultural reasons for doing the Camino.  If you add that to the figure above,  241,650 or a whopping 92% did attach some spiritual significance to walking the way.

And 20,809 or the remaining 8% cited purely cultural reasons for doing the Camino. 

Of course, I had my own "cultural" moments every so often,  the Camino after all is about 

the joy and not the suffering of pilgrimage.

9.  Some more facts about the walk 

When you do the Camino, you'll walk on all sorts of surfaces,  from tree lined, leafy paths...

through sunny country back roads ...

over narrow dirt trails  ....

sometimes, even by the national highways. 

And when you get tired from walking -- not to worry, there's always some place quiet
to sit down and rest for a while. 

10. Why 2016 is the year to do your Camino

The Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela celebrates the Holy Year of Mercy this 2016 and the Holy Door or the Porto Santa has been opened for pilgrims.  It is the perfect time to plan and finally walk the way of St. James. 

This year, stand at the Plaza do Obradoiro after you finish your Camino. 

I assure you it is a life enhancing experience.

NB Thank you to my fellow peregrino and husband Jay, for photos #7 and 19 that I used in this post.

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My (practical) Japan Travel Tips

March 14, 2016, 11:41 pm

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Perhaps because I have been to Japan so often these past 17 years, friends usually ask me for tips -- where to go, how to get there, what to eat, etc. etc.  While I am far from being an expert on Japan,  I am always happy to share what I know.
My particular interests are temples, shrines and quaint, off-the-beaten-tourist-track places where the only gaijin face is usually my own.  I realise that these are not what many of you are looking for (after a couple of temples,  friends have screamed "enough!") so I will share  the most practical recommendations I can think of which may help you enjoy your Japan vacation.

1. Should you buy a JR Pass?

The JR Pass, sold abroad and only to foreign tourists, costs about 29,000 yen for a 7 day pass.
Unless you are going from Tokyo to Osaka and back on the shinkansen or bullet train (which costs 28,000 yen for a round trip reserved seat), or will be travelling frequently using the shinkansen between major cities,  it will not be worth it.
The JR Pass is valid only on JR Lines,  both regular trains and shinkansen.  If you're staying in one place like Tokyo, Kyoto or Osaka, you'll be going around the city via subway, private trains and even buses where you cannot use the JR Pass.   Spare yourself the expense and instead ...

2. Get a pre-paid subway pass.

A pre-paid subway card is indispensable when you travel to Japan.  PASMO can be used in Tokyo, Kansai, Hokkaido while the ICOCA card is for Kansai use only.  You can also get the SUICA card which is likewise used in Tokyo.
Unlike  subways in major cities like New York and Paris where you pay a flat fare to travel within the city zone,  fares in Japan are calculated by distance and it can be confusing and time consuming to keep checking the fares and buying single tickets every time you ride the subway or train. With the subway card, you zip right through the turnstile.
Buy the pre-paid cards from vending machines in almost any subway station and top
it up from the same machines when your balance dips low.  These cards can be used for buses,
to pay for purchases in convenience stores or even pay your taxi fare.  Any balance left over can be refunded when you leave Japan or you can keep it for your next trip.
If you are landing in Kansai International Airport en route to Kyoto, get the special ICOCA card shown above which gives you a good discount on Haruka, the airport express train that will take you from KIX to Kyoto Station.

3. Download a Tokyo Subway App.

Tokyo is a huge city with more than 200 subway stations.  Plus there are 13 subway lines.  Which line do you use?  Where do you get off?  How do you get from one station to the other?
I'd recommend that you download a Tokyo Subway app, available for both IOS and android devices.  These apps allow you to trace your route from one station to the next so you always know where to get on and off.   Extremely useful and will help you from getting "lost in translation".

4. Stay Connected with Pocket Wi-Fi.

Always be connected while in Japan, not just so that you can post your awesome photos
and  get all your friends green with envy -- but also to be able to find your way around.
Addresses are confusing and buildings are not numbered sequentially.  Even Tokyo natives
get lost!  Didn't I say how enormous the city is?
With your pocket wi-fi, you can google-map your way around and lessen the chances of not finding that highly recommended but hidden ramen restaurant.
Rent a pocket wi-fi ahead of your trip and it will be delivered to your hotel, waiting for you when you arrive.  It comes with a self addressed envelope which you use to mail the device back before you leave.
The photo above is a sample from http://www.globaladvancedcomm.com.  I have been renting from them for many years and they're very reliable.
Just another tip -- if you're traveling to Japan during peak season (spring or autumn) make sure you order your pocket wi-fi weeks ahead as they may just run out of the devices.

5. Plan your itinerary.

This is just one small part the Tokyo skyline, as seen from the Tokyo Sky Tree -- as you can see, it's a vast metropolis where it's easy to be overwhelmed by the sheer enormity of the city.
Osaka and Kyoto are smaller but definitely not lacking for places to see and things to do.

I suggest that before you leave,  make an itinerary that lists down your priorities -- 

your must-go-to and must-see places. 

Like any big city, it's impossible to see and do everything on your first visit but with a well planned itinerary, you will at least hit the spots you most want to see.

I personally would recommend that specially for first time visitors,  whether you're headed to Tokyo, Osaka, Kyoto,  Sapporo or any other place in Japan --  you should stay a minimum of five whole days so that at the very least, you can get a sense of the place.

And p.s. try and learn a few key Japanese phrases.

While I  don't expect you to learn kanji for a one week vacation (I certainly can't) I would suggest that you memorise a few important words and phrases.  My Japanese friends know 

my favourite phrase is "biru o kudasai" or "beer please" and they assure me that is all I need to know.

But seriously speaking,  the Japanese are polite and hospitable people and like any host, they 

are appreciative when you try and speak their language.  

Everyone knows "arigato" (thanks)  but try saying "domo arigato gozaimashita"(thank you for what you did) particularly at the end of a service like a meal or a transaction and you will come across as polite and respectful.

"Ohayo gozaimasu" is "good morning" and "konbanwa"means "good evening".  

You can say "konichiwa" or "hello" for the hours after lunch till late afternoon.  

To call someone's attention, say "sumimasen" or excuse me.  You can also say it when you're crushed in the middle of the subway during rush hour. If you unintentionally step on toes as you exit the train, say "gomen nasai" or "I'm sorry."

Everyone knows how to say "oishii" which means "delicious".  If you're dining with Japanese friends, say "itadakimasu"before you dig in  ("I will receive this food")  and they will certainly be impressed.

And to gain a smile from your waiter or the cashier as you pay your bill , say"gochisousama deshita" or "it was a feast"! 

Yoi tabi o kudasai!
Have a good trip please. 

              

Quezon's Specialties at Kamayan sa Palaisdaan in Tayabas

March 29, 2016, 4:23 am

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Kamayan sa Palaisdaan has been an institution in the Quezon food scene for almost twenty years. 

For someone who by virtue of affinity has roots in that province,  I am rather embarrassed to say
that I had never eaten there -- at least until last week.  

It was quite a surprise to walk in and see the restaurant's distinctive attractions --  dozens of native bamboo huts floating on top of an expansive  fish pond.   The water was green and a bit murky but there was no unpleasant  smell at all.   There are numerous trees and shrubbery which help bring in a few breezes, most welcome on this very warm day.

There are more than fifty huts laid out all over the property,  each with a long table and benches that can accommodate up to twelve diners.   Because it was a weekday,  there were lots of unoccupied huts but I was told that people have had to wait for almost an hour  during peak times on week-ends.

While you will see a few tilapia and some koi swimming in the pond,  those meant for the table are segregated off to one side, ready to be scooped and cooked and served.

Here is Jay and our friend Ross (also from Lucena) waiting for lunch in our bamboo kubo (hut).  For a place that is so popular and has been around for so long,  I was impressed that the huts were well maintained and kept very clean.  

Lunchtime!  Even on a slow week-day, it took a while for the food to be served.
I like to think that's because everything is cooked to order and nothing is heated and re-heated
in the microwave.
We all wanted to eat very local and traditional Tayabasin dishes so for starters,
we ordered a salad of pako or fiddlehead ferns with itlog na maalat or salted duck eggs, onions and tomatoes.  The salad was refreshing and went well with a cold bottle of San Mig light.  

Palaisdaan's specialty is fish and sea food -- we definitely wanted  the tilapia,  swimming
placidly all around us.  How much more fresh could our meal be?
The tilapia would be caught, cleaned, cooked and served to us within minutes.
Ross ordered a typical Quezon dish -- sinugno.  This is tilapia cooked in gata or fresh coconut cream with mustasa or mustard leaves.  A very tasty and creamy dish,  the coconut cream sauce was perfect, spooned over plain hot rice.
The sharp, slightly bitter bite of the mustasa leaves kept the dish from being too rich.  
I think the mustasa must be grown somewhere on the property because they tasted like they had just been picked a few minutes ago.

In Quezon where the key agricultural product is coconut, one staple ingredient is gata or
fresh coconut cream.  For someone who comes from Quezon, Jay strangely is not too fond of gata and thus opted for a more simple dish.
Pinaputok na tilapia  is tilapia that is slit, stuffed with onions and tomatoes, wrapped in banana leaves and charcoal grilled.  It's a simple way to enjoy the pure sweet freshness of the fish.

All these healthy dishes make for an unbalanced meal so porkintheroad had to bring in some of the good pig stuff.  I ordered inihaw or grilled pork chops which must have been marinated in some form of barbecue sauce, hence the faint reddish tinge.   While I would have preferred a more simple marinade or rub of just garlic and salt, the chops were tender and well cooked.

The food lived up to my expectations -- but it was this local delicacy that just blew me away.
This smiling young vendor is not an employee of the restaurant but he gets to peddle his bilao (basket) of native kakanin (rice cakes).  Regulars at Palaisdaan wait for him to come around their huts with his signature kakanin -- pilipit made with kalabasa and malagkit.

Pilipit is normally made with malagkit na bigas or glutinous rice.  This version of  pilipit incorporated grated kalabasa or squash which gave it a yellow-orange tint and more importantly, made it even more maligat (chewy) and oh so very delicious.
While it usually comes in a twisted shape (hence the name pilipit),  this variety sold at Palaisdaan looks like a compact doughnut, complete with the hole.
After frying, the pilipit is liberally dipped in what tastes like a coconut based caramel sauce.  Think of coconut jam and molasses getting married and you have an idea of just how ambrosial this topping is.  

Thank you Ross for suggesting Kamayan sa Palaisdaan for our lunch date.  I enjoyed the
typical Quezon dishes in the middle of a  charming, bucolic setting.  And I specially relished the unique and scrumptious pilipit!
I made sure to buy a dozen of these addictive little snacks to bring back to Jay's home in
Lucena.  We enjoyed it again for dessert that evening.

Full disclosure -- I skipped dinner but had three pieces of pilipit!


NB There are two Palaisdaan Restaurants along the road between Tayabas and Lucban.  Kamayan sa Palaisdaan is on the left side if you are coming from Lucena.  

My Travels with Guides

April 3, 2016, 9:40 pm

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I read an article that talked about the benefit of "investing in experiences instead of
material things".  That is a concept I definitely agree with, particularly when it comes to travel.
I know that most people see travel as nothing more than an extended shopping spree but really,
after the nth souvenir or "dust gatherer" (as my husband likes to call them), do you really need to shop for some more?
How about investing in the experience of immersing yourself in a specific place -- finding out more about the culture, getting a glimpse of how the locals live, understanding the present by knowing something about the past?
One investment I would like to suggest (and in most cases, the investment isn't expensive at all)
is to use the services of an experienced and expert private tour guide.
When I travel, whether solo or with the family, I never book a package tour.  I took one with my parents many many years ago, 31 days on a bus through 8 countries -- and I swore I would never
do it again.
I much prefer to be my own travel planner -- I do research and look for a local tour guide or a small independent tour company where I can either have a private tour or join a small like-minded group.
I had always wanted to write this post but kept putting it off.  This is a belated but heartfelt thank you to all those guides (some have become very good friends) who have enriched my travels through the years. This is a partial list but here are the more memorable guides I have travelled with ...

1. Guide Books 

Let me start by thanking Arthur Frommer,Tony Wheeler,  and the good folks at Fodor's --
I call them my Big 3 of travel guidebooks. 

They give a pretty complete overview of the must-sees and must-do's of a place.   

Some people say that guidebooks deal in the usual tourist traps but hey -- the Eiffel Tower is a 

tourist trap that everyone needs to see.  And so is the Colosseum.  Don't be such a travel snob.

You can also visit a local bookstore and look for english guides written by locals.  

For those who like to walk, I would recommend City Walks' boxed set of different walking routes for major cities.

Tip -- since the guidebooks weigh about a pound or two,  I normally tear off just the pages that I will need for the day and leave the rest of the book in the hotel.

2. Independent Local Tour Companies

Instead of going with a major tour operator who will herd 50 of you into a double decker bus,
try the smaller local tour companies who specialise in walking tours of specific areas.   Tours are conducted in an extensive and in-depth fashion by guides who are more cultured and well informed.

Paris-Walks

Run by an English couple who have lived in Paris for more than thirty years, Paris-Walks has daily walking tours (through rain or snow) usually lasting 3 to 3.5 hours of specific areas in Paris -- the Latin Quarter, the Marais,Montmartre, etc. 

Oriel Caine (shown here) is a History and French literature major who brings the past alive with her scholarly yet interesting lectures.

No need for any reservations, just show up at the meeting point (usually beside a subway station) 

and join the tour.  Groups are manageable -- with 10 to 12 people showing up (perhaps more during peak seasons) so you can really interact with Oriel and ask questions as you walk along.

 

Oriel's other half, Peter Caine is also a History and an Art History major.  His booming voice 

and enthusiasm  plus the spicy and amusing anecdotes liven up any tour that you take with him.  

Their website  http://www.paris-walks.com/index.html lists down the month's calendared walks
so just pick and choose.   I think Jay and I have pretty much done all of their walks through our
years of visiting Paris!

I guarantee that a walk with Oriel, Peter or any of their other excellent guides will be 3 hours well spent in Paris. 

Hong Kong Foodie Tasting Tours

Hong Kong -- a food lover's destination.  While I have favourite restaurants that I always end
up going to, it's always exciting to discover new places.
Hong Kong Foodie Tasting Tour is a delightful little tour company that conducts walking tours
in several well known food districts of Hong Kong island.  

The tours are led by owner Silvana (in the black shorts above) who certainly knows all the delectable
secrets  and is only too happy to share them with her clients.  Silvana guarantees that you'll visit
only independent,  owner run restaurants and not chains or franchises. And the tour does not limit itself to food alone -- Silvana will point out architectural and historical places of interest along
the way.  Tours are limited to 12 people and take about 3 hours to finish. Make a reservation on
their website at  http://www.hongkongfoodietours.com

All Star Osaka Walk 

Osaka, my favourite city in all of Japan is fun, casual and lively.  Minako san, owner of the tour company All Star Osaka Walk personifies all these endearing Osakan qualities.  

She and her other equally charming english speaking guide,  Akie san can customise private tours
for you or you can choose from one of the many food tours they offer.  They also offer group tours which give you a 3 hour walking experience of Osaka. I first met her a few years ago and
always book a tour when we visit. 

All Star Osaka Walk will take you around anywhere in the Kansai area.  You just have to write
them and ask.  The website is http://allstarosaka.com  They're on Facebook and reply very quickly
to all inquiries.

Hansen's Hikes in Hong Kong

If someone had invited me to traipse through Hong Kong's trails and peaks  instead of spending
my day wrapped around a plate of char siew and rice, I would have said no thank you.
But that was until I met Michael Hansen who owns and runs Hansen's Hikes, a tour company
that specialises in hiking, cycling and walking tours of Hong Kong.  A transplanted Dane who has  lived in Hong Kong for the past twenty years, Michael speaks Cantonese, knows all the trails and paths and is a wonderful hiking guide and most important to me, a very patient walking companion.  

I may have bitten of more than I could chew on our first hike but I have since been back for a few  more.  Thanks to Michael, I discovered the joys (and pains)  of hiking. 

Check out the different hiking, walking and cycling routes on http://hansens-hikes.com  You may get a few calluses but you will also see Hong Kong as you have not seen her before.

 Ivan Man Dy of Old Manila Walks

I am always happy when I take friends on any one of Ivan's walks most specially his signature 

Big Binondo Food Wok -- they invariably rave and say they had so much fun.  Whether walking through the walls of Intramuros or grazing through the many delicious places in Chinatown,
Ivan is sure to educate, entertain and delight.  I can't count the number of times that I have done
his Binondo Food Wok but Ivan makes it fresh and new each time. 

His passion for the city is infectious. Check out his schedule and make reservations at http://www.oldmanilawalks.com 

3. Tours by Locals

Tours by Locals'slogan is"Connecting Travellers with Local Guides". This is a travel company
that has more than 1,600 independent tour guides spread out over 130 countries.  Visit their website
at https://www.toursbylocals.com   

I found them on the web many years ago and have used their exceptional guides in different parts of the world.   Tours by Locals is a much better option than going with a big tour operator.  

Tours by Locals guides are expert,  accomplished professionals and at the same time, are personable and very welcoming.

Mari Reguillon in Lyon, France

We visited Lyon a few days before Christmas and thankfully Mari put her Christmas break on hold
to take us on a brief but exhaustive tour of her beloved city.  My one wish was to see the famous traboules of Lyon and Mari delivered on that and more.  She even had a wonderful treat for us -- taking us down to the basement of the Basilica of the Notre Dame  de Fourviere,  she showed us
a statue of our very own Nuestra Señora de Naval de Manila -- a heartwarming and touching surprise.
We were in Lyon for all of six hours but thanks to Mari, we walked and talked and came away knowing more about Lyon than we would have, if we had gone on our own.

Chieko Ishii in Kyoto 

Chieko Ishii  is one of the busiest Tours by Locals guides for the Kansai area.   She is happy to
ask about your interests but will also recommend the places that you need to see.   We always
schedule a tour with her each time we visit Kyoto.  If you like to walk, you will enjoy meandering with Chieko san through the beautiful paths and streets of Kyoto -- listening to her talk about the many aspects of the city that make it a truly one-of-a-kind place.  My favourite tour with her was a
2- kilometre stroll along the famous Philosopher's Path.

Meiko Tabata in Kyoto

We met Meiko Tabata through Tours by Locals on our second trip to Kyoto.  We hit it off so well
that we have since become best friends.  After that first tour with Meiko san, she has refused to do any more tours with me, instead she takes me around as a friend and not a client.  Truly a generous and warm hearted lady!  She has spent Christmas with us a couple of times and even attended Christmas masses with us at the Cathedral in Kyoto.
Most recently,  she joined me as as I fulfilled my Kyoto UNESCO World Heritage sites bucket list.

Amy Overy in Hong Kong

Not all Tours by Locals guides are native to the place. Amy Overy is an expat living in Hong Kong and does cycling tours on her free time.   Jay did a 40 km ride through the New Territories with Amy  where he enjoyed seeing the countryside -- definitely a much better sight for him than the inside of (yet another) shopping mall.

Iker Dominguez in San Sebastian

Iker is proudly Basque and very multi-faceted -- he is a gourmet cook and belongs to an exclusive and very historic gastronomic club in San Sebastian, food capital of Europe. 

He is a global traveler and has been to and lived for a while in many places in Asia. 

He has a blog, makes travel videos -- I could go on and on.  All these make Iker a most engaging and engaged guide and host.

Iker introduced us to the small towns along the Basque coastline from San Sebastian, all the way to Lourdes, in France.  We very much enjoyed knowing more about the Basque country, people, traditions, cuisine, culture and yes -- even a few Basque words.  Eskerrik asko, Iker! 

4. Cycling Tours

Jay likes to cycle so he tries as much as he can to incorporate a ride when we travel.  We are always on the look-out for cycling tour companies.  These tours are run by guides who speak both english and the local language and safety is always a priority.

Fat Tire Paris

Fat Tire runs cycling tours in Paris and other major cities of Europe.  If you have a few hours free, take one of their many cycling tours which will take  you through Paris' landmark attractions.  

Jay took the morning Paris tour but they also conduct evening tours during summer.   Groups are
not too big and the guides do all they can to ensure everyone's safety.  

The website is https://www.fattirebiketours.com

Tokyo Great Cycling Tours

Tokyo Great Cycling Tours at http://www.tokyocycling.jp takes cyclists through the old and new sections of Tokyo. Owned and run by Yukiko san who leads tours along with her other english speaking guides, TGCT also offers kayak and running tours.  Most of the time, the tours include a packed bento lunch and cyclists stop for a picnic in a park.

Miracle Cycling Tours in Tokyo 

This group will run the tour even if only one cyclist makes a reservation.  It was drizzling the day that Jay did a tour with Miracle Cycling Tours but they outfitted him with a raincoat, a helmet and away they went.  Owned and run by former rickshaw drivers who used to pull tourists around in rickshaws in Asakusa,  Miracle Cycling Tours at http://www.tokyobiketrip.com/about.html promises to show cyclists a  side of Tokyo they wouldn't normally see.  

Cycle Osaka

Since the time that Jay took a bike tour with Sam of http://cycleosaka.com  this tour company now also offers cooking classes of Osakan specialities.  The owner and lead guide is a friendly Irishman who is married to a Japanese lady and so he says that he speaks Japanese using the feminine point 

of view.  There are half day and full day tours with a break for lunch in a very local neighbourhood restaurant. 

Bravo Bike in Madrid

Bravo Bike at http://bravobike.com has a Madrid office and runs a popular bike tour of the city but they also do bike tours all over Spain and Europe with special itineraries like a wine tasting tour, a golf and bike tour  and even a pilgrimage tour by bike to Santiago de Compostela. The four  hour Madrid city tour that Jay took  even included a quick tapas and wine break. 

He was lucky enough to have his tour conducted by the owner of Bravo Bike himself, a very dedicated and enthusiastic rider. 

5. Transport and Tours

How about investing in a private van to take you around a city? A country? A continent?
It's certainly more expensive than a packaged bus tour but you go on your own time, follow no
one's itinerary but your own and can make stops whenever and wherever you want.
This option is specially good for groups of at least 6 or 7  people,  brings down the cost when
you're sharing the van with others.
Private transport will eat up a good chunk of your travel budget  but it will be money well spent!

Dondon Infante's D&D Van Service 

We met Dondon through a friend's recommendation and have since recommended him to other friends  who have all loved travelling through Europe with him.
Dondon is based in Rome where he has lived for more than 20 years but he will go anywhere in Europe to pick you up and take you around.  

He has a fleet of new, comfortable and spacious vans that easily fit 7 people with huge luggage 

(that was us!) and he also has a staff of kababayans who can drive you around if he is not available.
Very professional and efficient,  Dondon can help plan your itinerary, show you the best sights,
take you outlet shopping  and get you into places where you normally wouldn't be able to get in to.  He'll even get you tickets for the weekly audience with the Pope!

Dondon took us on a week-long drive from Rome through Tuscany -- certainly a highlight of our trip!

Peter Lauz's Euro-Fil Travel and Tours

Peter has been living in Paris for over twenty years and like Dondon, takes travellers anywhere
they want to go in Europe.  He is gregarious and friendly, a natural born raconteur who will regale you with stories and a lot of insider tips -- where to shop, where NOT to go, where to get a great haircut! When we're in Paris,  Peter takes us on day trips,  the highlight of which is a final stop at
his mini grocery stocked with Pinoy goodies -- right smack in the middle of the chic and tony 16th arrondissement.  How about some home cooked Pampangueno sisig to go with that french baguette?

 Follow the Camino

When we did the Camino de Santiago last year with friends, we chose a dedicated Camino specialist, 

http://www.followthecamino.com.  While we did not use any guide and walked the Camino ourselves,  Follow the Camino arranged for all our transfers, made reservations for us in the 

various inns and B&Bs along the way and generally ensured that we would have the best experience possible.  Their transport provider on the ground in Galicia was a family who has been helping  Camino pilgrims through the years -- Paola and her brother were efficient, punctual and always ready to be of help and answer our questions.   Buen Camino!

Bonie Lazaro's  B.A.L Cargo 

The Pinoy global network is really the best -- through a friend of a friend of a friend, we were able 

to contact Bonie Lazaro who runs B.A.L. Cargo in Madrid.  Just like Peter and Dondon, Bonie 

has been in Europe, specifically Madrid,  for over twenty years and has brought his entire family 

over since then.  

Very hardworking and entrepreneurial, Bonie drives all over Spain picking up balikbayan boxes 

from Pinoys to send them to their relatives anywhere in the Philippines.  

In between all this, he tours visitors around Spain and will take you anywhere you want -- 

Bonie mentioned that Pinoys usually ask him to drive them to Lourdes and Fatima.   His very spacious van converts to a comfortable people carrier.

Kido san, english speaking taxi guide in Kyoto

On my last trip to Kyoto, Buddha sent me a gift in the form of Kido san -- an english speaking cab driver who took me to various temples that I had not been to and even recommended one that was the high point (literally) of the morning.  He told me to take all the time I wanted and gave me a very fair arrangement on what would otherwise have been a most expensive taxi ride.  He is very willing to do tours for foreigners -- give him a call on his mobile at 090-6609-1368.  The country code for Japan 

is +81.  

6. Expert Local Guides

There are some local guides who are widely acclaimed as the specialist in their given field of interest.  When you have the chance to take a tour with one, grab it as it will be a most enlightening and engrossing experience.

Malcolm Miller at the Cathedral of Our Lady of Chartres

In December 2012 we visited Chartres , 90 minutes out of Paris, with a double purpose -- to see this beautiful cathedral and to listen to a lecture given by Malcom Miller, the renowned authority on this magnificent Gothic church.   

An englishman, Mr Miller has been doing lectures in Chartres since 1958,  daily for most of the
year, except for January to Easter.   When we met him, he must have been in  his early 80s -- the passion for what he does continues to fuel him up to today.

The one and a half hour lecture (I hesitate to call it a tour because of how erudite and scholarly 

Mr. Miller is) will you give a fascinating  glimpse into the Cathedral, how she was built,  the architectural highlights, the times in which she was built and  the many historic events she has witnessed.  

Amazingly, the lecture costs only 10 euros per person which is a pittance compared to the unique experience of listening to Malcolm Miller.  He is truly remarkable --  a fascinating speaker who holds your attention with his every word  but best of all -- he is kind and gentlemanly and welcomes all who are interested in his beloved Cathedral.  

Tip -- before Mr. Miller arrives,  drop by the Cathedral Shop and get a copy of his book so that you can have him autograph it after his lecture.

Yukari Sakamoto in Tokyo 

I first heard about Yukari san when I bought a copy of her book, Food Sake Tokyo from amazon.com (see me holding it proudly above?)  

A Japanese American lady who lives in Tokyo with her husband, Yukari san is a recognised authority on Japanese food and is the go-to resource of CNN, the New York Times and so many other global news and lifestyle networks.  

Between writing articles, restaurant reviews and books,  appearing on t.v. and touring visiting 

chefs and food celebrities, she somehow still finds the time to conduct walking food tours for those with a more than passing interest in Japanese cuisine.  

Jay and I took her Nihonbashi walking tour where she brought us to the top purveyors of key japanese ingredients -- bonito,miso, nori, dashi --  explaining the backstory and role of each in the way that japanese food is cooked.  

I also saw all kinds of  utensils and kitchen implements making me realise just how complex and unique japanese cooking truly is.  You may find Yukari san's tour schedule at her website http://foodsaketokyo.com/about/

+ Bambi Borromeo of ATON 

For me, a good travel guide should have the following qualities:

1. He or she should be both a generalist and a specialist -- he should have general, factual knowledge and at the same time, he should have in-depth and exhaustive information (including interesting and real anecdotes) about his particular sphere of interest and expertise;

2. He or she should have a good and charismatic personality -- how else would he be able to hold your attention?  

3. He or she should be patient,flexible and equipped with a sense of humor -- in travel, things 

don't always go the way you want them to and the ability to adapt and turn around a potentially difficult situation is something a good travel guide should have.

My dear late friend Bambi Borromeo, tour guide non pareil of Bacolod and Negros Occidental possessed all these qualities and more.  I was fortunate to have seen him through his career shift -- from advertising whiz to excellent and much sought after travel professional.  

I miss him dearly and dedicate this post to him!

To market, to market ... to the Lucena Public Market

April 5, 2016, 10:23 pm

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Lucena City is the capital of Quezon province, centre of business and trade.  This is where Jay comes from and where his mother still lives.
Through the years that  I have been going to Lucena, malls and department stores have cropped up but when I was there for a few days last week, I never set foot in one, instead I went everyday to
the Lucena Public market.

The market is a few kilometres from the house and since it's too hot to walk, I hop on a tricycle, something I quickly regret because (gasp) traffic, in the form of jeeps, cars and tricycles, now also plague Lucena's roads.  It would have been faster if I had walked.

The public market burned down a year or two ago and the new structure has yet to be finished.
As such, the market has been split into two areas a few blocks apart.

I get off the tricycle,  as traffic  has come to a complete standstill.  

There are fruit stands lining the narrow street, which of course adds to the traffic and congestion.

The vegetable sellers are all on the sidewalk.  I stop to buy a kilo of the ripe and red tomatoes -- 

only P20 a kilo.

I had been looking for tamarindo for ages and was so happy to see it sold here.  It cost P10 for the small pack and P30 for the bigger pack.  My father used this as a souring agent for sinigang, as a 

base for a sauce for fried and steamed seafood and also, boiled with brown sugar and mixed with 

lots of ice, it makes a tart and refreshing drink.

My favourite patani (lima beans) are shelled and shucked and spread out on this bilao (reed basket), so green and pink and pretty.  I cannot resist and buy two small glasses -- this will go well with sigarilyas (wing beans) and sitaw (string beans), cooked in coconut cream.

Native kakanin or rice cakes always make me stop dead in my tracks.  This vendor had a bilao full of pilipit (fried glutinous rice twists), butchi (yam filled rice balls) and even some  fried, sugar topped  camote (sweet potato) slices. 

Another vendor had a bilao of shiny, caramel coloured biko (rice cake),  so mouthwatering, all sliced and waiting to be sold.

These conical suman (steamed rice cakes) are wrapped in ibos or buri leaves.  They come in big 

and small sizes and are unsweetened, just the way I like them to be.  There are also packs of 

suman sa lihiya (rice cakes cooked with lye water) with the requisite coco jam sauce.  

With all the stops I had made, my basket was pretty full (and yes, heavy)  when I finally reached 

the old market building itself. The basement houses the wet section where mostly fish and meat 

are sold.  

Lucena has a fish port so you can expect different kinds of fish and seafood on sale.  They are 

usually priced  much lower than Manila but this being Holy Week, prices are higher than usual.

But every thing is fresh so I don't mind paying the premium. 

A large tray of edible conch shells attract buyers.  I stop to ask the vendor how she would cook this and I should have guessed what she would say "ginataan" (with coconut cream).   Coconut cream is such a staple ingredient here in Quezon.

I see a small shark along with some pagi or stingrays.   While I know kinunot na pagi (stingray shredded and cooked with coconut cream) is a delicacy in Quezon, the vendor told me that shark is cooked in much the same way.  

In Orani, Bataan where I come from, shark is also a delicacy -- specifically the meter-long species we call"hingkin"which is seasonal, found only  during the months of March to early April. 

There are bunches of alimango and alimasag (mud crabs and spider crabs) and an enticing pile of fresh,  large clams.  The clams are a good size -- the ones I buy in Manila so much smaller, perhaps just 1/3 of this size.

I buy a kilo of the clams (just P80!) and the vendor shows me this spiny shell which she said is called "kilay ng dalaga" (maiden's eyebrows).  The name is certainly more attractive than how it looks and for now, I pass up on this creature.

One final stop at the friendly meat vendor for some liempo (pork belly) and I am good to go.

Right above the wet market section is the area for vegetables and other dry ingredients.  Since I have bought all that I need from the sidewalk vendors, I no longer need to go up.

Back at my mother-in-law's house, it's time to empty my market baskets and prep for tonight's dinner.

Entonces, everything I bought has been cooked in this large paella!  

I served this at dinner to my  95 year old mother in law and to my sister in law and they
enjoyed it very much.

The fresh ingredients of this paella were all sourced from the public market ...  shall I then call 

it  Paella a la Lucena? 

Kain na! 

"Fake-alao" -- daing na labahita masquerading as bacalo a la vizcaina

April 6, 2016, 5:49 am

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Sometimes the best bequests have no material value but carry a lot of sentimental value. 

Or in this case, a lot of culinary value. 

This is my late Tita Nery.  She was married to a favourite uncle and ninong, my Ninong Toto. 

Growing up, I didn't see her much but we re-connected when I visited her in the States where 

we quickly bonded over our shared interest in cooking.  

She was a generous and enthusiastic cook and shared quite a few of her favourite recipes-- 

the best of which was her bacalao a la vizcaina.  

On one of her visits to Manila, she stayed in our home and we cooked bacalao a few times until 

she knew that I had finally learned how to do it.  

I have since done it on my own a number of times and it's been a success with family and friends each time I have prepared it.

Bacalao is a traditional Good Friday meal -- at least it was when I was growing up.  My father 

cooked it infrequently since bacalao was hard to come by and extremely expensive.  

Times have not changed much -- there are just a handful of specialty food stores that sell good bacalao and it has become even more expensive.  At almost P2,000 per kilo, it's certainly not something you would cook often.

Last Holy Week when I was in Lucena for a few days I found a dried fish vendor in the public
market with a stack of daing na labahita or dried salted surgeon fish.

Labahita is firm, fleshy, flavourful.  When dried and salted, it is a frugal, practical substitute for bacalao.  Caviteño cooks swear by this as they use labahita to make an inexpensive version of bacalao.

I did not change Tita Nery's recipe at all except that I substituted P400 per kilo labahita for P1,900 per kilo bacalao.  The other ingredients are black olives, canned diced or crushed tomatoes, lots
and lots of red bell peppers, potatoes and of course, olive oil.

Tita Nery's bacalao is easy to make but the prep takes a long time. 

The dried labahita needs to be soaked and washed to remove much of the saltiness.  Just a tip
and reminder -- daing na labahita is a lot less salty than bacalao so there is no need to 

soak it in water for too long.  You will lose much the saltiness which is what makes
bacalao a la vizcaina so good.  Deboning and shredding the labahita also takes quite a bit of time.  Make sure you remove all the bones, specially the tiny ones.

In lots of olive oil, sauté the onions and when translucent, add the flaked, deboned labahita.  

When the fish is cooked, add the rest of the ingredients -- tomatoes, the roasted and sliced bell peppers, olives and the diced, pre-fried potatoes.  Simmer for a while and it's ready to eat!

The labahita worked just fine in this a la vizcaina recipe.  As I mentioned earlier, next time I will not soak the daing as much to retain more of the saltiness of the dried fish.  This goes well with rice but
I prefer eating it with slices of toasted baguette or sourdough bread. 

I hope Tita Nery is not rolling her eyes up there in heaven -- I think she would have approved of my "fake-alao", she was a natural and inventive cook who appreciated a culinary twist or two.
Thank you Tita Nery for this delicious and priceless culinary bequest!